Even though I was booted from the old site, I can still read it.
Robinhood is on there and has been having trouble with his clutch.
I'm sorry. Some of the advice may be from others on here, too. Some are dealers, and I know they most likely have more experience. But I am not normal. You probably are normal.
But that clutch was NOT adjusted correctly, and that 1/2" lock nut can go straight to the trash can. Most of the "problem" adjustments are ignorance and the wrong parts. Both can be fixed. I can literally get everything on that clutch and adjust it perfectly with a blindfold on. And I will gladly take $100 bets that my job will still be perfect in 10 years unless the friction disc is new. Those usually need another adjustment after a while.
Is Robinhood on this site?
Ez Adjust Clutch
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Harry
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Re: Ez Adjust Clutch
I did see that posting on the other site from Robinhood. 
Harry
Harry1973 444, 1974 644, 1976 446, 1977 646, 1986 226
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Eugen
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Re: Ez Adjust Clutch
I have no idea what happens on the other site, lately I have not had the time to visit it.
Steve, if you have good advice that sets the record straight about some wrong way of fixing an issue, by all means post it, as it will help someone not make a similar mistake. It would help to provide context for any advice you have about a particular fix.
Thank you!
Steve, if you have good advice that sets the record straight about some wrong way of fixing an issue, by all means post it, as it will help someone not make a similar mistake. It would help to provide context for any advice you have about a particular fix.
Thank you!
Case 224, 444, 644, 680E
Kubota B26
Kubota B26
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ssmewing
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Re: Ez Adjust Clutch
The EZ-Adjust clutch is EZ.
The instruction manual from Case is well written.
Things have forever gone wrong when people use parts that are not in that little bag or whatever has the part number on it. This part was from Case, which makes it 100% correct. In this case, the part is 129-125.
The parts manual says that part #14 for parts 129-125 is a 1/2" NF nut. If it were supposed to be a lock nut, the parts manual would say lock nut and the type. It does not say lock nut at all.
If you try to use a locking nut of any type, you will not achieve the desired outcome. Why? How could you ever tell how much torque it takes to reach 45-foot pounds to overcome the nut lock resistance and still reach the 45-foot pounds needed to lock the clutch adjustment in place? No lock nuts can be used in a situation where the torque spec is required—not on a Case clutch, not on anything.
My video on YouTube explains where the absolute humongous lock washers are. Those lock washers are overbuilt for a lowly clutch. They are perfect for this situation; hats off to those engineers who looked very deep above what you would expect on a garden tractor for the huge Belleville Washers. Bellville Washers are lock washers and nothing but lock washers. Then there were the geniuses who thought to use one against the other—props to whoever it was. All this circles back to the lock nut. If Case had already known they had an extreme set of lock washers, they would have had no reason to use any lock nut. In fact, as those who have tried in vain to use a lock nut, it can only be a hit-and-miss endeavor. It is pure luck when you get it right with a lock nut, and I mean 100% correct, where the clutch engages, never disengages, and never needs to be redone again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEr3lLbluzc&t=12s
The instruction manual from Case is well written.
Things have forever gone wrong when people use parts that are not in that little bag or whatever has the part number on it. This part was from Case, which makes it 100% correct. In this case, the part is 129-125.
The parts manual says that part #14 for parts 129-125 is a 1/2" NF nut. If it were supposed to be a lock nut, the parts manual would say lock nut and the type. It does not say lock nut at all.
If you try to use a locking nut of any type, you will not achieve the desired outcome. Why? How could you ever tell how much torque it takes to reach 45-foot pounds to overcome the nut lock resistance and still reach the 45-foot pounds needed to lock the clutch adjustment in place? No lock nuts can be used in a situation where the torque spec is required—not on a Case clutch, not on anything.
My video on YouTube explains where the absolute humongous lock washers are. Those lock washers are overbuilt for a lowly clutch. They are perfect for this situation; hats off to those engineers who looked very deep above what you would expect on a garden tractor for the huge Belleville Washers. Bellville Washers are lock washers and nothing but lock washers. Then there were the geniuses who thought to use one against the other—props to whoever it was. All this circles back to the lock nut. If Case had already known they had an extreme set of lock washers, they would have had no reason to use any lock nut. In fact, as those who have tried in vain to use a lock nut, it can only be a hit-and-miss endeavor. It is pure luck when you get it right with a lock nut, and I mean 100% correct, where the clutch engages, never disengages, and never needs to be redone again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEr3lLbluzc&t=12s
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ssmewing
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Re: Ez Adjust Clutch
Maybe copy and paste this in a PM from you and a nobody. Using my name may get you in trouble. Otherwise, you read it. He is about to spend a lot of money.
Try to talk him into going back to a regular 1/2" nut so that the torque is not part of overcoming the lock nut he has. The torquing of the nut has nothing to do with adjustment except keeping it in the place that the traveler nut needs to be.
I do not think it is tight enough where it is, but without being there, I have no way to know. If he pushes the lever further and it hits the flywheel screen, it is not adjusted right.
The second picture is precisely what got Lionel to want me gone. Lionel claimed that that looked perfect. But it is not perfect. Every time the lever is pushed, there must be two resistance points. The first is where the second picture shows it. He is only at the first point of resistance. The fork is straight up and down in the cam pocket. It must fall over to the corner of the cam notch.
As long as his previous cam messaging with the welder and whatever it needs to cam over two times. The forks need to land into the corners of the cam notches. You always need to have a double resistance feel to the lever.