Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

As I have been working on the 1985 448 PTO I have fitted and removed the snowblower drive belt numerous times and getting more and more frustrated at the access, etc. On examination the PO had installed an (upgraded) axle pin that I am sure he made himself! How am I sure? well besides the fact that the bolt through the pin was several inches too long that made fitting and removing the drive belt hard, almost impossible to fit when I disassembled the pin it had a 3/4 inch plus hole through it!

Got a new pin, fitted the bolt so the nut protrudes forward (easier access for removal and no threads for the belt to hang up on) .. Here's a few pics..

Nice fix ras101, looks good. At this time I'd also like to thank you for all your contributions to the library, very much appreciated.

keith wrote: ↑Sat Feb 10, 2024 11:12 am Nice fix ras101, looks good. At this time I'd also like to thank you for all your contributions to the library, very much appreciated.

Keith, Thank you! you have no idea how much your post meant to me...

So my first steering axle pin came from #Teapotlinda on Ebay and was totally stainless! A really great kit and seller that was part of the Case/Ingersoll community. Unfortunately he has retired and no longer making/selling. Even though I know that keeping the pins greased stops any rust I still prefer stainless to anything else but not to be...

Ray

Nice repair Ray, looks much, much better! That should last a long time.

Just some food for thought and something to check on your pin, as you already have one. But We ended up having to get pins made to our specs, we also now have grease grooves cut in them now since video as shown on our site. But we tried to support other dealers and CI owners making pins bu in the video we explain why we had make our own pin kits. https://youtu.be/IskK509NYho?si=bdlky-Sig5SV3mgc

The second pic has our latest updated pin with grease channels. https://www.caseingersolltractors.com/p ... l-tractors

CaseIngersollNE wrote: ↑Sat Feb 10, 2024 6:52 pm The second pic has our latest updated pin with grease channels. https://www.caseingersolltractors.com/p ... l-tractors

Nice pin - always wondered about why groves were not a part of the original design. Grease is really only as good as being able to retain it why it is needed.

ras101 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2024 11:37 am

CaseIngersollNE wrote: ↑Sat Feb 10, 2024 6:52 pm The second pic has our latest updated pin with grease channels. https://www.caseingersolltractors.com/p ... l-tractors

Nice pin - always wondered about why groves were not a part of the original design. Grease is really only as good as being able to retain it why it is needed.

There was one groove as part of the original design, but incorporated into the axle not the pin.

Bob

myerslawnandgarden wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2024 11:59 am

ras101 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2024 11:37 am

CaseIngersollNE wrote: ↑Sat Feb 10, 2024 6:52 pm The second pic has our latest updated pin with grease channels. https://www.caseingersolltractors.com/p ... l-tractors

Nice pin - always wondered about why groves were not a part of the original design. Grease is really only as good as being able to retain it why it is needed.

There was one groove as part of the original design, but incorporated into the axle not the pin.

Bob

Thank you Bob, did not know that but it makes sense too!

Ray

Another thing the PO did was manage to get the grease nipple moved so that it could not be accessed from the front nor anywhere else that I could see. I certainly did not have a gun that would fit the "new position" . As these are a press fit I very gingerly re positioned so that it could be accessed from the front with my gun.

I'm sure like you guys you have a maintenance schedule (just like your cars) right? For me it's twice a year - when I fit the mowing deck and when I fit the snowblower. Used to change the oils back then too. Since I changed hydraulics and engine to synthetic a few years back I change Engine oil only every couple of years and I still have not changed hydraulics in 4-5 years now. This spring though I will be draining the transmission. Might even open it up and check but we are now off subject

Also, I'm not sure that everyone knows that you should jack up the front of the tractor before greasing to give a better chance for the lubricant to be distributed equally. With the weight of the tractor on the center pin and spindles, there is little chance of grease getting to the bottom.

Bob

myerslawnandgarden wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2024 2:36 pm Also, I'm not sure that everyone knows that you should jack up the front of the tractor before greasing to give a better chance for the lubricant to be distributed equally. With the weight of the tractor on the center pin and spindles, there is little chance of grease getting to the bottom.

Bob

Bob, thank you ! I never knew that either. Another thing to add to my maintenance schedule.

Here is a neat trick for a diy remote grease fitting for hard to get to fitttings . Now this is best done when the part can be removed . In this case the axle is removed , the grease fitting is removed and the hole drilled and tapped for 1/8" NPT . Then a 90 degree male/female "steel fitting is installed . On to that a grease gun replacement flex hose is installed . reinstall axle with the hose up through the frame to a convenient spot to mount a bracket to hold the tail end of the hose using a union to clamp it in place and receive a 1/8" npt grease fitting .
My 2 cents , you may keep the change .

myerslawnandgarden wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2024 2:36 pm Also, I'm not sure that everyone knows that you should jack up the front of the tractor before greasing to give a better chance for the lubricant to be distributed equally. With the weight of the tractor on the center pin and spindles, there is little chance of grease getting to the bottom.

Bob

ANd this is the way you can add grease to the poor mans power steering kits (everyone should have these, in stock ready to ship! Just saying lol) in between removal and regressing

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2024 2:54 pm Here is a neat trick for a diy remote grease fitting for hard to get to fitttings . Now this is best done when the part can be removed . In this case the axle is removed , the grease fitting is removed and the hole drilled and tapped for 1/8" NPT . Then a 90 degree male/female "steel fitting is installed . On to that a grease gun replacement flex hose is installed . reinstall axle with the hose up through the frame to a convenient spot to mount a bracket to hold the tail end of the hose using a union to clamp it in place and receive a 1/8" npt grease fitting .
My 2 cents , you may keep the change .

Yes works great just like remote greasing on big equipment! All 4100 series should have had this from day one on axle lol. Great Tip David

The upgraded axle pin and poor man's power steering were probably the best upgrades I did on my tractor. The axle pin made such a huge difference. Wish I had spent the $50 sooner. The axle pin could have been a little shorter to take even more play out of the steering but the pin is probably sized for tractor production tolerances.

I measured my factory pin and found it had only worn 0.002". Even with very little wear, the difference made by changing the axle pin was huge. This is probably due to closing up the frame to axle gap.

I've done the steering gear shim change as well. This helped take up some play but not nearly as much as the pin upgrade. Even on a low hour tractor I still have play in the steering with the updates.

MattA wrote: ↑Mon Feb 12, 2024 8:37 am The upgraded axle pin and poor man's power steering were probably the best upgrades I did on my tractor. The axle pin made such a huge difference. Wish I had spent the $50 sooner. The axle pin could have been a little shorter to take even more play out of the steering but the pin is probably sized for tractor production tolerances.

I measured my factory pin and found it had only worn 0.002". Even with very little wear, the difference made by changing the axle pin was huge. This is probably due to closing up the frame to axle gap.

I've done the steering gear shim change as well. This helped take up some play but not nearly as much as the pin upgrade. Even on a low hour tractor I still have play in the steering with the updates.

Matt,

There really isn't enough adjustment built into the design of the steering gears. You can tighten things up further by machining some material off the top of the sector gear hub and adding additional shim washers underneath.

Bob

MattA wrote: ↑Mon Feb 12, 2024 8:37 am The upgraded axle pin and poor man's power steering were probably the best upgrades I did on my tractor. The axle pin made such a huge difference. Wish I had spent the $50 sooner. The axle pin could have been a little shorter to take even more play out of the steering but the pin is probably sized for tractor production tolerances.

I measured my factory pin and found it had only worn 0.002". Even with very little wear, the difference made by changing the axle pin was huge. This is probably due to closing up the frame to axle gap.

I've done the steering gear shim change as well. This helped take up some play but not nearly as much as the pin upgrade. Even on a low hour tractor I still have play in the steering with the updates.

Thats why we went and had our pins custom made to our specs as the others out there are just too long, as pins do wear a good bit too,
But most the play in the axle and steering comes from the plates spread and axle itself wearing. Poor man kit really helps with plows and blowers or weights hanging out front too.

When I grease the front end parts on any of my tractors, 4 different brands, I jack them up and grease them. And when I let them down I give them another little shot.

Noel

When I grease the front end parts on any of my tractors, 4 different brands, I jack them up and grease them. And when I let them down I give them another little shot.

And a thought on the poormans power steering kit. I put them in two Massey Fergusons and a John Deere. Seemed to help, maybe. It seemed to me that it helped more on the return to straight than going from straight to full right or left turn. My thinking is, that when you turn right or left fully, that it lifts the tractor a little bit and on return the weight helps turn them back. So your lifting the weight of the tractor when turning and not on the return. Spindles are shaped that way so the steering will return to straight while moving.
Jumpins that was quite a ramble. Please correct me if I’m out to lunch on that or those thoughts.


Noel

CaseIngersollNE wrote: ↑Mon Feb 12, 2024 3:29 pm

MattA wrote: ↑Mon Feb 12, 2024 8:37 am The upgraded axle pin and poor man's power steering were probably the best upgrades I did on my tractor. The axle pin made such a huge difference. Wish I had spent the $50 sooner. The axle pin could have been a little shorter to take even more play out of the steering but the pin is probably sized for tractor production tolerances.

I measured my factory pin and found it had only worn 0.002". Even with very little wear, the difference made by changing the axle pin was huge. This is probably due to closing up the frame to axle gap.

I've done the steering gear shim change as well. This helped take up some play but not nearly as much as the pin upgrade. Even on a low hour tractor I still have play in the steering with the updates.

Thats why we went and had our pins custom made to our specs as the others out there are just too long, as pins do wear a good bit too,
But most the play in the axle and steering comes from the plates spread and axle itself wearing. Poor man kit really helps with plows and blowers or weights hanging out front too.

When I made my own axle pin, and watched your video before hand. I took a measurement then decreased it a bit to tighten up the frame. Installed it and it still was to loose, so I had to chuck it in the lathe and shorten it some. That did the trick and now it’s nice. The video helped, thanks. Harry

Glad the video helped lol. Yes many do not realize that most pins out there are too long and by a good amount many times and they do not get the full benefit for the pin style change. Thats why we say ours may be a little more cost but they actually do what they are supposed to do and fix the issue completely. Thanks for watching the video!

Ryan, your video's are the best I have ever seen for our hobby... I can only thank you. It helps our community to move forward too and make appropriate choices. I for one am an avid viewer of you video's and some, if not most, drive my next update. For me your video's are ultra important and well your kits and better yet your "improved kits" drive my interest to more levels of support.. Thank you!

Thanks! We try and glad they are helping many that was and is the main intention of doing them. Its amazing how many people are surprised to find out parts are still available for our machines and UPGRADES! We hear it all the time as the videos I feel have introduced many to our brand as we often hear people have seen our videos/website and then go purchase CI machines all over North America! We are happy the videos keep our community growing and thriving and informed. We have right now roughly 125,000 views PER year and hopefully keep growing thanks for the support!

I may have to get some from you. I rebuilt the front end of my 6018bh a few years ago. I picked up an ebay one from one of the main guys making them. I feel like the pin may be too long and I still have slop. There's alot involved in removing the front counterweight. I'll just have this one shortened up sometime when I decide to tear it all back apart but my other 6018 and some 4000's I have need them.

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Sounds good let us know we would be glad to help. Yes we have a completely different loader pin we designed as well. Not sure if you have seen the video here it is https://youtu.be/kA5Rw8ndHbY?si=FmjwuhZw94ocH7Kd