Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

Seems I can't find a cab for a 4020 close so I'm going to build one as close to OME original cab. Can anyone answer some question?
The thickness of the sheet metal, angle of front window (looks like around 25deg.), the distance from the frame to the footrest and Height from the top of fender to the bottom of the roof framing roof? I don't want to hit my head when getting in and out. The 90 deg. bend measurements? Looks like the 90 deg bend slants to the back for water to drain.

Don't know if this is helpful for you

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=1237

Eugen, I've been figuring it all out the last couple weeks and it's all starting to come together now. Thank you, any info helps.


quote=Eugen post_id=21544 time=1705946813 user_id=50]
Don't know if this is helpful for you

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=1237
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Hi, TLD89,
Been building a cab in my basement for a couple of years now. My starting point was a very beaten up and rusted K2 cab, with one missing door and the other with the window busted out (the doors on the original cab was probably the weakest part followed closely by the front angle that restricted entry/exit), etc... just read almost gone and you would be about right for the condition. So it sat in my shed for a couple of years as I researched cabs but I knew I wanted to be "under cover" for the winter season in WNY. After research and well just looking at the cab and peoples comments about their cabs and also watched Craigslist, Marketplace, and Ebay I made a list of what I liked and did not. I also visited a couple of sites where people had made-their-own and their comments to.. Read on about 3+ years! and I'm getting older and colder!!!

I was inspired by a cab made by "Grummy" that I shared the info on on this site.

Others here have referenced my work above that I have drawn using Fusion360 (you can download a free copy)

Ray

Check out this link - I uploaded this cab info a few weeks ago that might also be helpful

viewtopic.php?f=20&t=1750

Ray

Just measured the front angle of a cab door (using a digital protractor) that is also the front angle too....

106 degrees...

Ray

Ray, here are some pics. I don't have a factory cab to go off of. So this is just what seems to be working for me so far. Hopping to get sheet metal this week. Just trying to figure out what ga. would work best for bending on brake. I do know that the regular siding brake will not bend 14ga or 16ga. sheet metal that I think I will need.
Here are some pics

ras101 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 01, 2024 2:09 pm Hi, TLD89,
Been building a cab in my basement for a couple of years now. My starting point was a very beaten up and rusted K2 cab, with one missing door and the other with the window busted out (the doors on the original cab was probably the weakest part followed closely by the front angle that restricted entry/exit), etc... just read almost gone and you would be about right for the condition. So it sat in my shed for a couple of years as I researched cabs but I knew I wanted to be "under cover" for the winter season in WNY. After research and well just looking at the cab and peoples comments about their cabs and also watched Craigslist, Marketplace, and Ebay I made a list of what I liked and did not. I also visited a couple of sites where people had made-their-own and their comments to.. Read on about 3+ years! and I'm getting older and colder!!!

I was inspired by a cab made by "Grummy" that I shared the info on on this site.

Others here have referenced my work above that I have drawn using Fusion360 (you can download a free copy)

Ray

Measured the front metal gauge @ 0.085 inches (13 gauge?)

I took a long look at your fab pics . I noticed that you have moved the cab front way forward! I also noticed you have a standard ONAN engine (B43-48M). If you leave the cab that far forward you will fill the cab with exhaust fumes (even though the engine is reversed) that are carried by the cooling fan through the engine tins and out the rear of the engine and straight into the cab..

Ray

ras101 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2024 9:35 am Measured the front metal gauge @ 0.085 inches (13 gauge?)

I took a long look at your fab pics . I noticed that you have moved the cab front way forward! I also noticed you have a standard ONAN engine (B43-48M). If you leave the cab that far forward you will fill the cab with exhaust fumes (even though the engine is reversed) that are carried by the cooling fan through the engine tins and out the rear of the engine and straight into the cab..

Ray

Ray,

I'm not clear on your line of thinking. The P220G engine draws in cooling air through the perforated panels on each side of the dash tower and the cooling air exits the front of the tractor through the grill. With the exhaust also exiting forward I'm not sure why the cab would fill with exhaust any more than any other application. Am I missing something here?

Bob

ras101 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2024 9:35 am Measured the front metal gauge @ 0.085 inches (13 gauge?)

I took a long look at your fab pics . I noticed that you have moved the cab front way forward! I also noticed you have a standard ONAN engine (B43-48M). If you leave the cab that far forward you will fill the cab with exhaust fumes (even though the engine is reversed) that are carried by the cooling fan through the engine tins and out the rear of the engine and straight into the cab..

Ray

Yes Ray I thought the cab was a bit to far forward for my liking. When I mounted the one on my 446 one of my concerns was to be able to lift the hood. So I moved it back a little to accomplish that. Then before I purchased a battery operated gas filler pump, I wondered how am I going to fill up the gas tank. So I made a hinge to mount on the back of the cab to tilt it so I could fuel it up. I have tilted it only a few times sunce I found I didn’t need to. There is always something you find out in hind sight. Harry

myerslawnandgarden wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2024 2:15 pm

ras101 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2024 9:35 am Measured the front metal gauge @ 0.085 inches (13 gauge?)

I took a long look at your fab pics . I noticed that you have moved the cab front way forward! I also noticed you have a standard ONAN engine (B43-48M). If you leave the cab that far forward you will fill the cab with exhaust fumes (even though the engine is reversed) that are carried by the cooling fan through the engine tins and out the rear of the engine and straight into the cab..

Ray

Ray,

I'm not clear on your line of thinking. The P220G engine draws in cooling air through the perforated panels on each side of the dash tower and the cooling air exits the front of the tractor through the grill. With the exhaust also exiting forward I'm not sure why the cab would fill with exhaust any more than any other application. Am I missing something here?

Bob

Hi Bob, like you said I realize that the 4020 air flow seems to move the air forward but because of how the muffler exits the hood a great deal of the gases end up back under the hood and exhaust back towards the driver and therefore the cab. Extending the cab over the hood and engine just makes matters worse. There have been numerous posts of members looking for solutions to evacuate the cab of the fumes, mainly fitting vents and fans above the back panel. I agree most have been running 3 digit GTs but there have been several 4 digit users too. For me I just prefer to play safe with that one.

Also, as Harry has said extending the cab forward impacts being able to open the hood and would require the depth of the windshield to be reduced to allow opening, etc.

Ray

"Also, as Harry has said extending the cab forward impacts being able to open the hood and would require the depth of the windshield to be reduced to allow opening, etc."
Ray and others, here is how I extended the front "legs" of the cab and can still open the hood.
Bob

bob, you inspired me with your cab and have researched my needs and my creation you have driven that... Thank you!

BobAfton wrote: ↑Thu Feb 08, 2024 3:40 pm "Also, as Harry has said extending the cab forward impacts being able to open the hood and would require the depth of the windshield to be reduced to allow opening, etc."
Ray and others, here is how I extended the front "legs" of the cab and can still open the hood.
Bob
Front Hinged Panel.JPG
download (2).jpg

Bob, YOU my friend are the very person that really got me out there looking for cab solutions! I guess my hero! I loved your article on other forum sites, etc. So I for one am just trying here to keep the faith and continue the quest you started a few years ago.. If you want to take the rains and update and keep us up to date with new ideas I would love to follow your lead... For me right now I want to work on Bob's great start... I invite Bob and everyone else to help us move forward as a team... I certainly have a lot of ideas, that is why AI am here, but also want others to identify their needs too. Want to join? just start responding to this post?..

BobAfton wrote: ↑Thu Feb 08, 2024 3:40 pm "Also, as Harry has said extending the cab forward impacts being able to open the hood and would require the depth of the windshield to be reduced to allow opening, etc."
Ray and others, here is how I extended the front "legs" of the cab and can still open the hood.
Bob
Front Hinged Panel.JPG
download (2).jpg

Bob, just for info. I really followed your advice and rework/remake of your cab a couple of years ago. I must admit though that there are others that are still trying to find reasons to ignore/upgrade. as I have upgraded/continue to upgrade your posting has always been my go-to.

Bob, all I can ask of you is please share your work here! Like you I have joined and shared with multiple forums just to be ignored. I know that this forum is different! Every member is an enthusiast and WANTS to listen.. Please share...

Ray

If I got/get even close to what you have done I would not even bee here posting! I now have two K@ cabs, the last in perhaps less than a month. The first has been totally sandblasted and assembled in my basement (in my defense I am 76 years old) . I need to not only undercoat and paint but assemble with MY ideas too! Yeah I have a few! perhaps too many...

Ray

Oh, BTW another thing I have done with my cabs installs and I must admit other things too al-la installs is I am not only lazy but looking for easy ways to do things! Just know my past life said improve everything, leave nothing the same (my job guys was quality management & process improvement!) , always reduce steps and you have got it! So whenever I see "nuts and bolts and washers" what do I do? try to FIX it! in this case (pun really intended here guys) I look at what I am trying to joint together and well, why?
On the cab - cab to cab parts being joined together are much better joined with stainless riv nuts than just nuts and bolts as they need to come apart sometimes often and also you can add "fender type washers to increase the panel thickness.
Besides that connecting the cab to say the GT fenders you can either fit with nuts and bolts and have to try to reach both sides with wheels between or just fit, install bolt and washer and tighten to spec. Fitting with stainless riv nuts, and then accompanying stainless washer for thickness, is a far better solution too. I tend to use stainless riv nuts rather than just nuts and washers where possible. Don't you?

Thanks Harry, I thought I was the only one here!

1) IMO there are two basic requirements - increase viability!

2) Make the cab easy to entry and exit! perhaps I am wrong?

I have followed the K1 and K2 cab design a lot, I mean a lot more than I should!, Including the current updates that members have chosen to share.

I now have two, both K2. I know from experience that the cab is very claustrophobic but more important provides little view outside. So what can we do? stick with the original cab? - and do basically nothing? or just basically enjoy what you can, hope the door windows survive you, etc...

So the rest of us? not sure yet.. I know that I will not leave it here for me as I have one stripped and in bits in my basement ... I have some/a lot of ideas, but I need help! want to help? great so respond and start. Want to sit back and let others do the work? your choice, but the more involved the quicker the resolution and the better the outcome!.

Ray



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Here are a few pics I found in a folder that I saved. Not mine, I would have painted the blower. Harry

Harry that is one beautiful tractor. The one you own with the back blade.

Harry wrote: ↑Thu Feb 15, 2024 11:45 am Here are a few pics I found in a folder that I saved. Not mine, I would have painted the blower. Harry

Now that's what I call a solution Harry! Anyone that has run a Case cab knows how claustrophobic they are inside and the limited view. The cab you show maximizes vision - love it!

I think a better approach is to stick with the foot rest fixing, increase the length of the roof an inch or two and therefor reduce the front angle perhaps by several degrees too. Put a "kink" in the front to compensate the new front angle. Add frames to the doors!!! most important. Want ideas you really need to look at my files on cab builds. Any issues on reading them just PM me and I will help you through.

Ray

keith wrote: ↑Thu Feb 15, 2024 11:55 am Harry that is one beautiful tractor. The one you own with the back blade.

That’s Bob’s GT not miine Keith. Harry

Looks roomy and light, I also like the black to help keep the heat in the cab and melt snow.

I apologize to Bob and Hairy for my mix up. The truth is I really wouldn't mind either of those tractors.

That’s Bob’s GT not miine Keith. Harry
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