Building a snow cab

[TLD89]

Seems I can't find a cab for a 4020 close so I'm going to build one as close to OME original cab. Can anyone answer some question?
The thickness of the sheet metal, angle of front window (looks like around 25deg.), the distance from the frame to the footrest and Height from the top of fender to the bottom of the roof framing roof? I don't want to hit my head when getting in and out. The 90 deg. bend measurements? Looks like the 90 deg bend slants to the back for water to drain.

[Eugen]

Don't know if this is helpful for you

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=1237

[TLD89]

Eugen, I've been figuring it all out the last couple weeks and it's all starting to come together now. Thank you, any info helps.


quote=Eugen post_id=21544 time=1705946813 user_id=50]
Don't know if this is helpful for you

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=1237
[/quote]

[ras101]

Hi, TLD89,
Been building a cab in my basement for a couple of years now. My starting point was a very beaten up and rusted K2 cab, with one missing door and the other with the window busted out (the doors on the original cab was probably the weakest part followed closely by the front angle that restricted entry/exit), etc... just read almost gone and you would be about right for the condition. So it sat in my shed for a couple of years as I researched cabs but I knew I wanted to be "under cover" for the winter season in WNY. After research and well just looking at the cab and peoples comments about their cabs and also watched Craigslist, Marketplace, and Ebay I made a list of what I liked and did not. I also visited a couple of sites where people had made-their-own and their comments to.. Read on about 3+ years! and I'm getting older and colder!!!

I was inspired by a cab made by "Grummy" that I shared the info on on this site.

Others here have referenced my work above that I have drawn using Fusion360 (you can download a free copy)

Ray

[ras101]

Check out this link - I uploaded this cab info a few weeks ago that might also be helpful

viewtopic.php?f=20&t=1750

Ray

[ras101]

Just measured the front angle of a cab door (using a digital protractor) that is also the front angle too....

106 degrees...

Ray

[TLD89]

Ray, here are some pics. I don't have a factory cab to go off of. So this is just what seems to be working for me so far. Hopping to get sheet metal this week. Just trying to figure out what ga. would work best for bending on brake. I do know that the regular siding brake will not bend 14ga or 16ga. sheet metal that I think I will need.
Here are some pics

Hi, TLD89,
Been building a cab in my basement for a couple of years now. My starting point was a very beaten up and rusted K2 cab, with one missing door and the other with the window busted out (the doors on the original cab was probably the weakest part followed closely by the front angle that restricted entry/exit), etc... just read almost gone and you would be about right for the condition. So it sat in my shed for a couple of years as I researched cabs but I knew I wanted to be "under cover" for the winter season in WNY. After research and well just looking at the cab and peoples comments about their cabs and also watched Craigslist, Marketplace, and Ebay I made a list of what I liked and did not. I also visited a couple of sites where people had made-their-own and their comments to.. Read on about 3+ years! and I'm getting older and colder!!!

I was inspired by a cab made by "Grummy" that I shared the info on on this site.

Others here have referenced my work above that I have drawn using Fusion360 (you can download a free copy)

Ray

[ras101]

Measured the front metal gauge @ 0.085 inches (13 gauge?)

I took a long look at your fab pics . I noticed that you have moved the cab front way forward! I also noticed you have a standard ONAN engine (B43-48M). If you leave the cab that far forward you will fill the cab with exhaust fumes (even though the engine is reversed) that are carried by the cooling fan through the engine tins and out the rear of the engine and straight into the cab..

Ray

[myerslawnandgarden]

Measured the front metal gauge @ 0.085 inches (13 gauge?)

I took a long look at your fab pics . I noticed that you have moved the cab front way forward! I also noticed you have a standard ONAN engine (B43-48M). If you leave the cab that far forward you will fill the cab with exhaust fumes (even though the engine is reversed) that are carried by the cooling fan through the engine tins and out the rear of the engine and straight into the cab..

Ray

Ray,

I'm not clear on your line of thinking. The P220G engine draws in cooling air through the perforated panels on each side of the dash tower and the cooling air exits the front of the tractor through the grill. With the exhaust also exiting forward I'm not sure why the cab would fill with exhaust any more than any other application. Am I missing something here?

Bob

[Harry]

Measured the front metal gauge @ 0.085 inches (13 gauge?)

I took a long look at your fab pics . I noticed that you have moved the cab front way forward! I also noticed you have a standard ONAN engine (B43-48M). If you leave the cab that far forward you will fill the cab with exhaust fumes (even though the engine is reversed) that are carried by the cooling fan through the engine tins and out the rear of the engine and straight into the cab..

Ray

Yes Ray I thought the cab was a bit to far forward for my liking. When I mounted the one on my 446 one of my concerns was to be able to lift the hood. So I moved it back a little to accomplish that. Then before I purchased a battery operated gas filler pump, I wondered how am I going to fill up the gas tank. So I made a hinge to mount on the back of the cab to tilt it so I could fuel it up. I have tilted it only a few times sunce I found I didn’t need to. There is always something you find out in hind sight. Harry