EZ clutches

[ras101]

Ospho is available from Amazon!

What do others think? is this a great buy?

[ras101]

Just know guys, I know we are small group, and probably an off shoot from the large forum too. For me though I feel comfortable to share more of myself here too.. also think sometimes that larger groups tend to get more territorial and regulated too and that does not help us to share our thoughts as some might be controversial too., I can only thank Eugen for allowing conversation for that to happen too. Thank you!

[CaseIngersollNE]

Ray hope it did not come across as I was singling you out, by no means I was. Was just responding in general and thanking you for watching our video and the shout out. So I can see how it may have seemed so lol.

[ssmewing]

So here's the first question and where I am trying to take this thread..

I have found two styles/types of PTO Cams (shown below)!
The outside dimension for both is the same and I thought it was just a different machine shop style but if you take a closer look the bearings are fitted from the opposite sides to each other? I assume one set are early production and the other later so which set are the ones intended for a 1985 448 GT..?

I have checked the parts list drawings for all the 448 variants since conception till they move to four digit and they all show the cams with lobes..

If that is the case (pun very much intended) what is the "other style" used on?

First edit: I had never seen the last version of the PTO parts. I was not even aware that they made one out of machined parts or cammed parts.


I am late to the thread. So, my replies are as I read along. The OEM PTO cams are the ones with the ears. The examples that are round all the way are made and as you found are made wrong. So, toss the made ones and get some replacements.

[ssmewing]

Thanks again Bob, but why is the entry of the bearings reversed/ From what you have said I will be using the machined version as I have two sets of those...

I too am in the what about the bearing coming in from the wrong side camp. I know how each part works and has to be in harmony as in there is a 100% correct way of doing this and then all other ways are 100% wrong.

[ssmewing]

So, I got a couple of new nuts, 129-125 1/2" NF to replace the lock nuts fitted b the PO. Neither screw onto a NEW, repeat NEW Hub by hand? Yeah, they get about 4-5 threads on, no issue, but after that lock tight. Don't want to use a wrench right now but have ordered a die to chase the threads... is this normal?

Clutch hubs are often shipped to us from our supplier with up to ten in a box, smaller quantities are often bagged and the threads can get banged up a bit in transit. Yes, a thread chaser could be used to clean them up, perhaps that's something that we can look at in the future before shipment. What I usually do when installing a new hub is to back the bolt out of the hub and reinstall it to the proper torque. The removal usually cleans up any nicked threads so that the EZ adjust nut and lock nuts thread on correctly.

Bob

Bob, did a little more digging on the thread issue and I am not at all convinced that it is a hub thread issue at all! All the adjuster nuts (I have 4 sets fit and run on the hub threads just fine by hand. The new nuts I bought though don't!! I think I am going to buy new nuts from a different source and try. Thank you though for listening and reacting too. My understanding is the nuts are 1/2"X20 NF. I will buy new grade 8 nuts to try.. keep you informed.

You may want to invest in a set of thread chasers. The SAE set will come with with both thread counts for each bolt or nut size. These thread chasers are not as aggressive in their cut as you run them through. I take the heads off, the intake and exhaust off, and many other things as a way to see how everything is doing on every machine that I am told to do the Hemlock Case Guy run-through. That was a pun. I clean all the thread and bead blast the bolts and head washers to remove that aged rust. You cannot reinstall fasteners to torque specs if they are rusted and if they are oiled. Once they are installed you can surface coat them.

[ssmewing]

I have no way of knowing the other video is on these. But it will not hurt anything for you to look at mine as well. I made this one many years ago. Instead of just saying that you follow the manual and install it that way I tried to really expand on each part and what it does.

Some day I need to have someone take a video of me while I am doing the final adjustment, blindfolded. That is how easy it is once the light lights up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEr3lLbluzc&t=12s

[CaseIngersollNE]

Do not toss those non ear bearing retainer cam replacement.... I believe yours are OEM, they have been without ears for a long time and worth something so keep them unless for some reason you think yours are not OEM... Bob has them in stock.
https://www.casegardentractorparts.com/c4ptoclcam.html Happy New Year all

[ras101]

Do not toss those non ear bearing retainer cam replacement.... I believe yours are OEM, they have been without ears for a long time and worth something so keep them unless for some reason you think yours are not OEM... Bob has them in stock.
https://www.casegardentractorparts.com/c4ptoclcam.html Happy New Year all

Thank you! never intended too. Found that there are two versions of "cams". The first style is the "cast cam" with the lobes but the second style , since 2012 is the machined cam. As I have said before here, my choices are based on "want to this once" and I guess also to build the latest too, I have spent a lot of time, I mean a lot of time, working through the various options. getting ready to share my findings here too.

So far I have built the PTO clutch 3 times! hopefully the forth will prove my theory right. Lets be sure though that there have been many updates and adaptions of the PTO clutch over the years and since too.

Just for a starter.. anyone that is fitting new bearings - CHECK THEM! don't care of the make , model, source, as I have sourced several both USA and China made. ALL are lacking lubricant, some much more than others, but still short!

I am still working through my final solution and hope to be able to release in the next couple of weeks, and yes i will take pics..

Again , I want to do this once.. Well for the next 15 years or so at least

[ras101]

So where I'm I now? really good question! so I threw money at my issue... and as you should know that is not good for a pensioner to do...

My aim though as I live in WNY that gets snow, yeah I mean snow and not sprinkles is that the GT Works for a living!

So started working through the process and have picked a pulley (one of the larger sized ones I mention earlier) )and cleaned it using a brass brush on my drill press. and emery cloth too. I will show a pic soon of that.

I have bought and will use almost new parts for the whole assembly (because I have two to build (a 1979 446 and 1985 and a 448) . the current project, (a 1985) needs some attention. The PO really did a number on this! I am/will take a lot of pics as I sort this out and rebuilding is not easy. I have ended up buying new several parts and will identify those and others as I move forward. For this rebuild most parts therefore will be new or close to it. In addition ALL parts will be checked for size, etc using calipers, et c. Want a definitive guided to PTO clutch then follow this guide. Another thing I have learnt for posting here prior is that the only way to make a guide is to do off line, i.e pic and document then save and share as a whole document so that is what I will do here. My offerings though will be based entirely on the latest! Things such as cast cams or machined cams, etc, will not/ever be discussed by me as I know they are there (and I have two good condition sets of cast cams available (should you need them) and will be using machined cams myself.

So far I have totally removed all the rust/corrosion from the PTO pulley and removed and installed a new clutch disc. It was very easy following strict instructions and I did this using a wood chisel and heat to remove the old surface and following up with emery cloth till bright and cleaned with brake cleaner too.

Used a B&D oven set to 400 degrees for 30 minutes and set the clutch disk too. Yeah, I made a clamp, per instructions and then added the disc before using the oven. This is the first of two I will doing...

Just know I only want to do this once SO i AM GOING TO REPLACE PARTS THAT MIGHT STILL HAVE A FEW MONTHS/years of life left!

Ray