Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

I am working on my J series snow caster. I always visualize and draw my parts first and sometimes model them too. I am working though a number of ideas but I really want your thoughts and input too.

So we probably have various series of snow caster after all some of these are now over 50 years old and I know my J series needs a serious look at and upgrade. Over the years I have thought hard about what works and what I need to see in any improvements I make. Probably like you I have made a few not by design but because perhaps due to failure. For me that was the jack shaft and main just plain wore out and I replaced the pulley and shaft with a 19 tooth etc, and the bearings etc also wore out.

So why am I asking for input? One of my next major design and draw projects is the snow caster. I would love your input to truly make this a forum project. Want to help? Tell me what bugs you with your current caster! be explicit if you can...the more detail the better and any improvements you would like to see. Not saying my new design will include everything but I will try...

Here's my list so far:

I have an auger from a K series that I have sand blasted that is in much better condition than my J series that has been basically wrecked on a gravel driveway. To date I have fitted new bearings. I have new jack shaft and all bearings, etc. I am thinking:
Auger work that includes rubber paddle extensions (thinking that it must also be easy to fit and have Tractor supply webbing for that)
Alignment work to move the auger back to reduce the gap between auger and housing.
Power (electric) shoot rotation and throw. Been following a number of solutions (remember I am an electrical engineer!) Both height and rotation
Scraper bar improvements
(I assume you guys will want all the details on the electrical connections, etc)
Skids.

Not sure what else but enlighten me guys on any and all and more to the above..what did you do? what worked, what did not, etc,
What about mounting for winter use? any new ideas?

All the up grade I did to the one for the 446 blower project tractor are working great now .
Auger as close as possible . Nice smooth shinny hard paint . Extended chute with electric controls . All new bearings . Straighten (true) auger . Quick adjust skid shoes . Round bar on cutting edge .

Would be nice if the tractor hood didn't hit the chute. I believe this is the case in my Berco but not my Snowcaster.

Chute wise, people have adapted tapered chutes to the snowcaster with good results. I can post a video another time.

MattA wrote: ↑Thu Feb 23, 2023 7:31 am Would be nice if the tractor hood didn't hit the chute. I believe this is the case in my Berco but not my Snowcaster.

Chute wise, people have adapted tapered chutes to the snowcaster with good results. I can post a video another time.

I fit that by splitting the hood nose assembly and hinging it the other way like a car . The nose can still be flipped forward to access the belt easier . What a difference that makes. Yet looks stock when closed .

Yes, opening the hood is great with the caster on.

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@Jancoe Yes that solves a lot of issues , including storage and cleaning .

Ray, there is a long discussion somewhere here on the forum about what different people already did as improvements, but I can't find it right now.

As I have suffered for two years with the snow caster, I can say what a difference it made for me to simply bring the snow caster to a proper working state, new bearings, new chain, new paint on the auger and inside surfaces of the caster housing. Also, good clutch and belt. Huge difference for me. Do I want to improve the performance? Yes, and will be following your ideas closely guys, I just don't feel as desperate about that now, that it works so well already.

So I went out and searched, and searched our forum, both using the search engine here and then google search, etc. Found a post that Gordy started (thanks Gordy). That has some of what I think we need and at least a really good starting point.
https://ccigt.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&p=2124#p2124

reading through a lot of the posts I really want to know more about UHMW plastic and how we could line the snow caster housing, auger edge install (drgs/dimensions, etc. ). Electrification too (I have my own ideas too!) Also anyone got "wings" and could share some dimensions?. really would like to draw those up too.

ras101 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 23, 2023 2:51 pm So I went out and searched, and searched our forum, both using the search engine here and then google search, etc. Found a post that Gordy started (thanks Gordy). That has some of what I think we need and at least a really good starting point.
https://ccigt.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&p=2124#p2124

reading through a lot of the posts I really want to know more about UHMW plastic and how we could line the snow caster housing, auger edge install (drgs/dimensions, etc. ). Electrification too (I have my own ideas too!) Also anyone got "wings" and could share some dimensions?. really would like to draw those up too.

There have been from many under a number of different discussion over time .

So I was just searching around On Ebay and found This:


Anyone tried using something like this on the snow caster housing?

No, is it got an adhesive backing ?

Yes. Interestingly there are several types and widths too. I think I will just buy a sample and see how it might hold up. - ORDERED!

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 24, 2023 4:32 pm Yes. Interestingly there are several types and widths too. I think I will just buy a sample and see how it might hold up. - ORDERED!

Interesting , Let us know how it work and is applied .

It's coming from California so might be a week or so to arrive guys. I ordered 1 roll and that is 6 feet long so it will not cover the whole caster for sure. What I am thinking is to apply it vertically in 3 inch strips adjacent to each other so I might get 2-3 strips out of this roll. Not cheap guys at $32 per roll but I think it might be the solution to some of our needs. If the adhesive does not look adequate I have ideas for that too. We shall see....

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 24, 2023 5:07 pm It's coming from California so might be a week or so to arrive guys. I ordered 1 roll and that is 6 feet long so it will not cover the whole caster for sure. What I am thinking is to apply it vertically in 3 inch strips adjacent to each other so I might get 2-3 strips out of this roll. Not cheap guys at $32 per roll but I think it might be the solution to some of our needs. If the adhesive does not look adequate I have ideas for that too. We shall see....

Interesting!

Inside the chute? Is it for a slippery surface?

Inside the chute for sure but thinking the housing too.

Thinking of using the chain tensioner option of the later caster. Started looking to buy the C29877 chain adjust screw but everywhere I have tried is sold out. Anyone know of a supply for these screws - there the ones with the square hole.
Thanks

ras101 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 26, 2023 12:41 pm Thinking of using the chain tensioner option of the later caster. Started looking to buy the C29877 chain adjust screw but everywhere I have tried is sold out. Anyone know of a supply for these screws - there the ones with the square hole.
Thanks

Try these guys Ray . http://www.barneveldimplement.com/index.html What they lack in a web site they make up for in product . NOS and repop they have made for them .

ras101 wrote:Thinking of using the chain tensioner option of the later caster. Started looking to buy the C29877 chain adjust screw but everywhere I have tried is sold out. Anyone know of a supply for these screws - there the ones with the square hole.
Thanks

3/8-24 threads. 2 1/2" from center of hole to end of threads.

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https://photos.app.goo.gl/esKdXozj38DW1P5b6

Surplus Center sells seat motors that are the perfect speed. But, they are not outdoor use motors. They are only $15 and replacing one every few years is not that big of a deal.

For the crank, I grind the threaded shaft down to fit into a 3/8" tube which is the size of the spiral that rotates the chute. The shaft is a little too short. That part sucks the most. You have to weld some round stock on the shaft so it will be long enough. I just use a simple piece of flat stock. One hole a little over 3/8" to motor shaft through and a 1/4" hole to bolt the flat stock to the same flat that is the spiral crank bracket.

The same motor runs the tilt. This time the traveler nut is used with the motor. Mounting is all about locating the motor mount and the traveler nut that will give you the full swing for the tilt chute. I drill, tap and tack weld a stub of 1/4" threaded stock. It takes several nuts and washers to mount yet swivel and not loosen the nuts.

The switch is either a monetary reversing switch with just 4 terminals. Or the DPDT switch is for reversing with 6 terminals and a little more wiring at the switch.

Dave, realize that too, My point though I think we all know the short comings of the case/ingersoll snow caster, we have all found ways around that , or not, but there have been no changes other than temporal fixes. Want to really discuss what works or not/want to fix it one time! I know I am there my friend! for me my task right now is to find a solution to improve me Case/Ingersoll snow caster to a level that needs no improvement. For that, the only help I need from you is your brain!!! what works, what does not, what do you want to see changed, etc.. Want to help? you are welcome, want to get in our way, not soo... your choice...

Ray, if you want to come to my location to see first hand my snow caster your welcome to do so. The last time I used it throw snow and ice 30’. It was incredible to watch. Harry

Harry, my plan is to visit soon. I really enjoyed our day talking about GT's and your shop. I will contact you on private messenger to arrange in perhaps a month when the weather breaks
Ray

ssmewing wrote: ↑Sun Feb 26, 2023 5:11 pm https://photos.app.goo.gl/esKdXozj38DW1P5b6

Surplus Center sells seat motors that are the perfect speed. But, they are not outdoor use motors. They are only $15 and replacing one every few years is not that big of a deal.

A cover for the motors is relatively easy to make.

I have a couple Simplicities with factory electric chute rotators. I don't know if it is some kind of clutch or a wierd drive coupler on the motor, but it can ice up and jam. Simple fix was to cut a 1/2" slot top to bottom in a large mayo bottle with a smaller slot sideways to fit over the shaft. some zip ties and 3 sheet metal screws to hold the lid to the bottle. 3 years running and no jams with the cover on


Gordy

so this came up on my local Craigslist:



At $125 what would you do? I have asked the seller to state the size 38 or 48 inch. 38 would definitely be a non starter but 48 inch? Will not offer $125 might go to $100 but what are your thoughts?

I was thinking more to get a plow for my second GT. I have a 446 with snow blower already..

ras101 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 27, 2023 3:43 pm so this came up on my local Craigslist:



At $125 what would you do? I have asked the seller to state the size 38 or 48 inch. 38 would definitely be a non starter but 48 inch? Will not offer $125 might go to $100 but what are your thoughts?

I was thinking more to get a plow for my second GT. I have a 446 with snow blower already..

Based on the relative length of the end compared with to the chute . I would say 38"

Thanks Dave , I wondered that too.. I think I will continue to look for a blade as I would love to have a complete option for snow clearing in the winter. This became very apparent during the latest storm the deposited less than a couple of inches of snow then we had an ice storm that added about 1/2 of ice on top. Did not even try to blow that! a blade I would have used though! Still looking for a blade guys, yea cheap, in WNY.. Anyone?

It is just a pity that craigslist and other sellers can't tell you that they have for sale a 38 inch or 48 inch item and just try to hide the fact. Total waste of time!!!

Ray if that is the caster from the Buffalo area, when it came up initially there were two casters and one blade. I think the other caster was a 48” and this one is a 38”. The 48” and blade were gone quickly. Harry

ras101 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 27, 2023 3:43 pm so this came up on my local Craigslist:



At $125 what would you do? I have asked the seller to state the size 38 or 48 inch. 38 would definitely be a non starter but 48 inch? Will not offer $125 might go to $100 but what are your thoughts?

I was thinking more to get a plow for my second GT. I have a 446 with snow blower already..

As mentioned, based on the length form the chute to the edge of the caster, I am also thinking 38". If there is a picture of the front, count the wraps of flighting on the auger from the center paddle to the end, The 38" will have 3 wraps and the 48" will have 4 wraps.


Gordy

On the other hand if it's a 38 inch, it would be a good candidate for 6" wings on each side.

Eugen wrote: ↑Mon Feb 27, 2023 9:31 pm On the other hand if it's a 38 inch, it would be a good candidate for 6" wings on each side.

A 38" would take less hp to turn / gear it to spin faster . And like Eugen said a pair of 6" wings would have the same cut and be lighter . If the wings were hinged , could fold forward to have more clearance backing up . Just another way to think of it .

So here's the challenge guys _

I need to know how the housing extension in the caster frame (center) works and the dimensions? Is this really a useful accessory that solves a problem and everyone should have or not?
Secondly I need a rough sketch or at least dimensions of the "wings". I pulled down a pic from SalemPwr website to show a reasonable profile but if there is any member prepared to share that too and how it works for them I would like to hear that.

Hi got the UHMW tape today!!! first impressions - WOW! only 6 feet guys and $32 but I am excited to use this... It's thick enough to last for a very long time but thin enough to conform to our casters (both the chute and housing. My main concern, and the reason i bought was for the housing of my J series. But this product will have no issues with the chute housing too. At 6 feet a roll my guess would be at least 3 rolls per caster so not cheap at all.

My caster rebuild will not happen this season but I want this as part of my caster upgrade.

Health dependent, I hope to accomplish this this coming warm season. Need you help guys too.

ras101 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 01, 2023 1:47 pm So here's the challenge guys _

I need to know how the housing extension in the caster frame (center) works and the dimensions? Is this really a useful accessory that solves a problem and everyone should have or not?.

Is this what you are referring to - I'll call it an Auger Deflector? If so, then yes, it makes a huge difference by preventing snow/slush spraying forward.

Hi Bob!! wow... I got to tell you you are one of my long sought after friends... I have followed your projects on several sites now and glad that you have visited here to..

So to answer your question YES, that is something I have seen several of our members create. My question revolves mainly about how successful that was and why in the first place it happened. My interest is whether I should even draw this and why?

Love to also talk about your findings and projects too...

Ray

Bob Afton, do you have any dimensional info on the deflector that you could share ? just know that I have based a lot of my cab design based upon your cab work that you shared with other groups.

Ray

I don't have any drawings or dimensions...I just made cardboard templates that I could bend for fit...it took a few pieces of cardboard. I no longer have them.
Here are a few more close up pics.
Bob

Thanks Bob! knowing you found it worthwhile has given me more incentive to continue to include that in the upgrade drawings I am working on. Just want to do the upgrade once... (yeah that will happen right?). Followed your cab build on another site and that inspired my cab build current project to. Took a lot f your work and just added my flair too - hope you don't mind?

My main concentration is on auger alignment and position right now. As you can see my heading I have a J series so jack shaft and auger position are the most important. Not talking right now about maintenance but obviously that's in the future too. Any help/advice you want to give would be more than appreciated as I build my case "Winter GT" with cab.

So what now? Seems I will have a number of projects starting in the spring!

Obviously AI need to dismount my caster...

I need to completely disassemble ...yeah I will be replacing my auger with one I have already sandblasted and will start by priming and painting.
I intend to paint (still not sure with slick paint but would prefer something else?
Bearings and seals are already set with standard replacements.
Housing I intend to completely sand blast and paint before adding UHMW to the housing and then the chute.

I will be automating?electrifying the rotation, etc. but not quite what you have seen before..

I want to add "wings" to the blower housing even though its a 48" so the final cut will be closer to 58 inches. The snow however must throw much closer a two stage than now with a higher yield than a two stage.. so rubber paddles, etc are part of this add.

ras101 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 01, 2023 1:47 pm So here's the challenge guys _

I need to know how the housing extension in the caster frame (center) works and the dimensions? Is this really a useful accessory that solves a problem and everyone should have or not?
Secondly I need a rough sketch or at least dimensions of the "wings". I pulled down a pic from SalemPwr website to show a reasonable profile but if there is any member prepared to share that too and how it works for them I would like to hear that.

I did something simular this winter to mine with angle iron and piece of convieror belt . Cheap easy and has been working great . The only thing I am going to do is shorten the rubber flap a couple of inches .
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=537&start=50

ras101 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 01, 2023 1:47 pm So here's the challenge guys _

I need to know how the housing extension in the caster frame (center) works and the dimensions? Is this really a useful accessory that solves a problem and everyone should have or not?
Secondly I need a rough sketch or at least dimensions of the "wings". I pulled down a pic from SalemPwr website to show a reasonable profile but if there is any member prepared to share that too and how it works for them I would like to hear that.

I did something simular this winter to mine with angle iron and piece of convieror belt . Cheap easy and has been working great . The only thing I am going to do is shorten the rubber flap a couple of inches .
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=537&start=50

MattA wrote: ↑Thu Feb 23, 2023 7:31 am Would be nice if the tractor hood didn't hit the chute. I believe this is the case in my Berco but not my Snowcaster.

Chute wise, people have adapted tapered chutes to the snowcaster with good results. I can post a video another time.

Hi #Matta, Don''t think there is any way, at least not one that comes to mind to stop the hood chute clash.Willing to work with anyone that has a solution..

Gordy wrote: ↑Mon Feb 27, 2023 12:41 pm

ssmewing wrote: ↑Sun Feb 26, 2023 5:11 pm https://photos.app.goo.gl/esKdXozj38DW1P5b6

Surplus Center sells seat motors that are the perfect speed. But, they are not outdoor use motors. They are only $15 and replacing one every few years is not that big of a deal.

A cover for the motors is relatively easy to make.

I have a couple Simplicities with factory electric chute rotators. I don't know if it is some kind of clutch or a wierd drive coupler on the motor, but it can ice up and jam. Simple fix was to cut a 1/2" slot top to bottom in a large mayo bottle with a smaller slot sideways to fit over the shaft. some zip ties and 3 sheet metal screws to hold the lid to the bottle. 3 years running and no jams with the cover on


Gordy

Thanks for this. I am thinking a cover that fits over the motor (not many are weather proof and tend to be recycled seat motors), etc and also covers the spiral and chute connection too. Thinking that some sort of "wiper" of the spiral/cute connection might be necessary to restrict ice/snow?

ras101 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 01, 2023 3:27 pm Hi got the UHMW tape today!!! first impressions - WOW! only 6 feet guys and $32 but I am excited to use this... It's thick enough to last for a very long time but thin enough to conform to our casters (both the chute and housing. My main concern, and the reason i bought was for the housing of my J series. But this product will have no issues with the chute housing too. At 6 feet a roll my guess would be at least 3 rolls per caster so not cheap at all.

My caster rebuild will not happen this season but I want this as part of my caster upgrade.

Health dependent, I hope to accomplish this this coming warm season. Need you help guys too.

So impressed with the tape guys I bought another 2 roles but this will be a summer project.. Too old, too cold, for this time of year..

ras101 wrote:

MattA wrote: ↑Thu Feb 23, 2023 7:31 am Would be nice if the tractor hood didn't hit the chute. I believe this is the case in my Berco but not my Snowcaster.

Chute wise, people have adapted tapered chutes to the snowcaster with good results. I can post a video another time.

Hi #Matta, Don''t think there is any way, at least not one that comes to mind to stop the hood chute clash.Willing to work with anyone that has a solution..

Lots of room on mine.

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Hi, saw this on a previous posting. I like what you have done but still not sure as it seems complicated to reproduce. Love for you to share more here..

I broke my spirol pin!! Snow caster is now out of action, probably for the rest of winter too... no longer a snow bird at my age. Moved to my backup green machine and HATE IT!

ras101 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 11, 2023 4:52 pm I broke my spirol pin!! Snow caster is now out of action, probably for the rest of winter too... no longer a snow bird at my age. Moved to my backup green machine and HATE IT!

What do you mean by spirol pin ? Ray

Hi Dave, well that one caught me too about 8 years ago! Spirol pins are a much heaver duty version of a spiral pin, at least that was told to me after I complained on one of the forums that I had the pin between the belt pulley and jack-shaft shear on my snow caster that I replaced with a standard spiral pin from, I think Harbor Freight, that almost immediately sheared a couple of times. I can attest to the fact there is most definitely a strength difference!

I only buy my spirol pins now from a Case/Ingersoll dealer...

ras101 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 12, 2023 9:44 am Hi Dave, well that one caught me too about 8 years ago! Spirol pins are a much heaver duty version of a spiral pin, at least that was told to me after I complained on one of the forums that I had the pin between the belt pulley and jack-shaft shear on my snow caster that I replaced with a standard spiral pin from, I think Harbor Freight, that almost immediately sheared a couple of times. I can attest to the fact there is most definitely a strength difference!

I only buy my spirol pins now from a Case/Ingersoll dealer...

Double it up Ray . Put in the one you need and find another pin that you can drive tight inside that . Or see if you can buy a double spiral in that size .

So what did you paint your auger with? Looking perhaps for a graphite paint? is something that is slick and long lasting. My auger has been sand blasted and totally bald at this time (not the one on my current snow caster..

ras101 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 12, 2023 2:24 pm So what did you paint your auger with? Looking perhaps for a graphite paint? is something that is slick and long lasting. My auger has been sand blasted and totally bald at this time (not the one on my current snow caster..

Tremclad with urethane universal hardener in summer and allowed to fully cure before assembly(30 days ) . Has stood up very well .

When I restored my caster, I too was debating which paint direction to go. I did my modifications and sanblasted everything. I then epoxy primed and initially was going to go with the graphite coating on the inside of the housing and auger. I decided not to and thought that it was going to be higher maintenance down the road. A few years ago I had a ice fishing auger I cleaned up and graphite coated and it needed several coats to cover. I've used that ice auger alot and ice clings to it often. That's the reason I decided to spray it all with oem paint. I'm happy I did. I feel the nice smooth coat of paint does great. I plan on putting a coat of polish and wax on it this summer just because I feel the ice will just continue to slide right off. I can't wait to see your uhmw liner installed. I remember having a discussion a while back about doing the same. My only concern was water becoming trapped behind the uhmw and or the glue releasing. I am wondering if a rubber paddle would be necessary once the uhmw is. I've had a few casters before settling on restoring the one I have now. I went through them all and the gap at the center throwing portion of the auger had varied alot.

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I just used quality implement paint. Ugliest colour ever, a brownish black. Painted with a brush this Fall, after some wire brush cleaning. The snow does not stick to it. I meant it more as protection, as the auger and interior side of the caster were quite rusty. I'm amazed how well it did so far though. Anything you do should probably be better than I did.

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 10, 2023 2:27 pm

MattA wrote: ↑Thu Feb 23, 2023 7:31 am Would be nice if the tractor hood didn't hit the chute. I believe this is the case in my Berco but not my Snowcaster.

Chute wise, people have adapted tapered chutes to the snowcaster with good results. I can post a video another time.

Hi #Matta, Don''t think there is any way, at least not one that comes to mind to stop the hood chute clash.Willing to work with anyone that has a solution..

If you need to open the hood and not have it hit the caster chute you just have to drive the front tires up some ramps or jack it up and add blocks. Then you can lower the caster more. I know it was too easy. But, most of the time your mind is on what is under the hood.