Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

I dont like not knowing at a glance how much fuel I have.

The black gas caps with the built-in guage are ok, but a real fuel guage is what I really want.

So I've ordered one from AliExpress, for about $22, both sender and gauge itself, and I'll install it... this spring some time.

Meanwhile, I also ordered a random cap-with-gauge, new old stock, that I knew to be at least long enough, a "Rotary 12074"

Then I disassembled it and shortened its supporting wires to match the depth of my fuel tank.

Then I re-twisted the center sprial to adjust the full and empty points to match the new range of travel.
Then I tried to screw it on, but it was too large.

The Rotary cap is like 2.25" ID with a metric Modulus 5 buttress thread.

The Ingersoll cap is more like 1.738" ID with a metric Moduls 4 "normal" thread.

So I sleeved some 1 1/2 PVC inside some 2" pvc pipe, and that gave me a thick-walled base to cut a bushing out of.

PVC prbabably isn't ideal, but hopefully it'll last until the new fuel gauge is in.

My old lathe is in imperial only, but by creating a custom set of 5 or 6 bull gears and using an Excel spreadsheet to look up the combinations I need, I can cut metric threads to within 99.8% of perfect. My total cost was about $10 and a couple hours cutting some gears. See here for details if you're curious: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kx5IsPdTzoc&t=2s

But as it turns out, metric Modulus 5 is 99.7% the same as 5 TPI, plenty close enough for this soft plastic to screw all the way on.

AND 6.5TPI is 99% the same as metric Modulus 4. Again, that's close enough.

So I set the lathe to 5 tpi and cut the OD threads. I kep trying as I went, making them a snug fit. I want the bushing to be tight in the cap itself, and stay stuck up in the cap.
Then I cut 6.5tpi threads on the ID.

Finally, I parted it off, and went outside and gave it a try. With about an inch in the bottom of the tank, it reads "empty", but if you shake the tractor, the needle moves. So it's an "actual" reading, it's not sitting on the bottom stop. So far so good.
Then I fill the tank up, (um... "past full" just a bit?) and now the cap reads "over full".

Perfect!
I threaded enough PVC to make two more bushings. If anyone wants me to send them a bushing, just let me know.

Bob

Thats awesome Bob , I put one of those boat kits in in Frankie a few years back. I am telling you having the gauge in front of you especially in the winter is amazing . But any type of gauge that keeps you from having open the tank to look or dip in the winter is a great thing to have .

Nice job Bob, I'll have to check out the electric setup when you get it in. I was thinking about how nice a dash guage would be lately while blowing snow. This is when my Onan can really eat through a tank of gas in a hurry. Of course if I had a guage I would always be pushing it to the limit trying to get done.

You made your own lathe gears?! That's some next level skills Bob. what's next, differential lock and 4x4?

Nice feature, the gas can. I like that it is self contained in a small area, no cables to chase when it doesn't show right. On the other hand you need to check on it occasionally, so dashboard is more convenient.

Another cool project Bob
I'm waiting for you to design a suspension seat

After seeing what Bob done I went and ordered this . It for a 5" deep tank . Ours are closer to 6 but need clearance for screen . Mine is a metal tank , hope it will fit like yours Bob . Around here there is no Jones , it's keeping up with Bob the Builder . Bob @thebuildist you do keep my mind going .

LOL. "You're going to have to get up PRETTY EARLY IN THE MORNING if you're going to keep up with ME!"

Spoken in my very best Barney Fife impersonation!





Bob

Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 9:38 am You made your own lathe gears?! That's some next level skills Bob. what's next, differential lock and 4x4?

Nice feature, the gas can. I like that it is self contained in a small area, no cables to chase when it doesn't show right. On the other hand you need to check on it occasionally, so dashboard is more convenient.

Believe me, I've thought a lot about a diff lock.

Nothing has come to me yet. But it if does, it'll be Katie Bar the Door!

Bob

thebuildist wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 5:42 pm

Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 9:38 am You made your own lathe gears?! That's some next level skills Bob. what's next, differential lock and 4x4?

Nice feature, the gas can. I like that it is self contained in a small area, no cables to chase when it doesn't show right. On the other hand you need to check on it occasionally, so dashboard is more convenient.

Believe me, I've thought a lot about a diff lock.

Nothing has come to me yet. But it if does, it'll be Katie Bar the Door!

Bob

Bob I can tell you for fact from driveing Frankie . You do not need a diff look on these tractors . Just need outboard brakes . Any time I get wheel spin < I just apply the brakes and the drag stops the one wheel spinning . One master on 2 calipers . And it will stop it with out a holding valve .
Just in case you get bored and need a new project .

MattA wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 4:44 pm Another cool project Bob
I'm waiting for you to design a suspension seat

I already built a suspension seat. Haven't you seen it?



Bob

thebuildist wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 6:16 pm

MattA wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 4:44 pm Another cool project Bob
I'm waiting for you to design a suspension seat

I already built a suspension seat. Haven't you seen it?

suspension seat.jpg




Bob

I'm not sure if this is a joke.

thebuildist wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 6:16 pm

MattA wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 4:44 pm Another cool project Bob
I'm waiting for you to design a suspension seat

I already built a suspension seat. Haven't you seen it?

suspension seat.jpg




Bob

Saw something brown in the seat Zoomed in but can't tell if you dumped a duce or if it is a hemorrhoid ring/cushion


Gordy

Gordy wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 9:16 pm

thebuildist wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 6:16 pm

MattA wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 4:44 pm Another cool project Bob
I'm waiting for you to design a suspension seat

I already built a suspension seat. Haven't you seen it?

suspension seat.jpg




Bob

Saw something brown in the seat Zoomed in but can't tell if you dumped a duce or if it is a hemorrhoid ring/cushion


Gordy

MattA wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 8:47 pm

thebuildist wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 6:16 pm

MattA wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 4:44 pm Another cool project Bob
I'm waiting for you to design a suspension seat

I already built a suspension seat. Haven't you seen it?

suspension seat.jpg




Bob

I'm not sure if this is a joke.

Touche!

I suppose I've done enough crazy things, that this could be real.

But, no, this is a joke!


AND IT"S MY SUNGLASSES. not a deuce.



Bob

thebuildist wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 6:16 pm

MattA wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 4:44 pm Another cool project Bob
I'm waiting for you to design a suspension seat

I already built a suspension seat. Haven't you seen it?

suspension seat.jpg




Bob

ice photo shopping Bob , But you forgot to darken the greenery in the background of the chair to match the back ground .

Update on the fuel gauge I ordered . It unfortunately does not fit the steel tanks . Hole is to small .

Bummer.

For the record, I absolutely do not recommend that you break out the cutting torch...

I just now reread your post on brakes for wheel slippage.

I had assumed you meant split/ dual brakes. But you're just talking about one pedal? And you just apply medium pressure if you get wheel spin?

Bob

thebuildist wrote: ↑Tue Jan 10, 2023 6:07 pm I just now reread your post on brakes for wheel slippage.

I had assumed you meant split/ dual brakes. But you're just talking about one pedal? And you just apply medium pressure if you get wheel spin?

Bob

Yes Sir . I don't understand the physics behind it , but I know it works on these tractors . Now when the brake is applied , it does Not put it in neutral . So having resistance and pressure on both the wheels at the same time has something to do with it . It also weight more than most , more like 646.

thebuildist wrote: ↑Tue Jan 10, 2023 6:05 pm Bummer.

For the record, I absolutely do not recommend that you break out the cutting torch...

No that would let the big dog out and it bites hard.

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Tue Jan 10, 2023 7:59 pm

thebuildist wrote: ↑Tue Jan 10, 2023 6:07 pm I just now reread your post on brakes for wheel slippage.

I had assumed you meant split/ dual brakes. But you're just talking about one pedal? And you just apply medium pressure if you get wheel spin?

Bob

Yes Sir . I don't understand the physics behind it , but I know it works on these tractors . Now when the brake is applied , it does Not put it in neutral . So having resistance and pressure on both the wheels at the same time has something to do with it . It also weight more than most , more like 646.

Well, that's encouraging. A few years back I bought a couple Ford ranger brake disks that should fit, and I have a couple calipers off of a Toyota 4-runner that I think should work. And I bought a pair of master cylinders to drive them. My plan was to design a set of L/R pedals to drive the master cylinders and install split brakes.

But the geometry of connecting the pedals to the cylinders and tucking everything neatly out of sight proved to be a bigger challenge than I had assumed. And I shelved that project and launched off into the loader build instead.

I should circle back around to the brakes soon, but it's intimidating.

But I think I'll follow your lead and just begin with a single cylinder/pedal driving both sides. I could always split it/ improve it later, but for now a single pedal will be a lot easier to accomplish.

Thanks!

Bob

thebuildist wrote: ↑Wed Jan 11, 2023 10:33 am

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Tue Jan 10, 2023 7:59 pm

thebuildist wrote: ↑Tue Jan 10, 2023 6:07 pm I just now reread your post on brakes for wheel slippage.

I had assumed you meant split/ dual brakes. But you're just talking about one pedal? And you just apply medium pressure if you get wheel spin?

Bob

Yes Sir . I don't understand the physics behind it , but I know it works on these tractors . Now when the brake is applied , it does Not put it in neutral . So having resistance and pressure on both the wheels at the same time has something to do with it . It also weight more than most , more like 646.

Well, that's encouraging. A few years back I bought a couple Ford ranger brake disks that should fit, and I have a couple calipers off of a Toyota 4-runner that I think should work. And I bought a pair of master cylinders to drive them. My plan was to design a set of L/R pedals to drive the master cylinders and install split brakes.

But the geometry of connecting the pedals to the cylinders and tucking everything neatly out of sight proved to be a bigger challenge than I had assumed. And I shelved that project and launched off into the loader build instead.

I should circle back around to the brakes soon, but it's intimidating.

But I think I'll follow your lead and just begin with a single cylinder/pedal driving both sides. I could always split it/ improve it later, but for now a single pedal will be a lot easier to accomplish.

Thanks!

Bob

Intimidating?????? Bob????? I never thought I would here that.

Lol. Thanks for the compliment I guess.

The real problem turned out to be plumbing/locating the reservoir for the brake fluid. The cylinders I bought came with attached reservoirs. But that meant that the cylinders could not snuggle up next to each other because the reservoirs are about 4 in wide. So that meant that I had to have some kind of remote reservoir location.

But mounting a remote reservoir and piping it into feed both cylinders proved to be a real challenge. Especially since I'd like the reservoir to be somewhere protected/out of sight. And it has to be above the cylinders because of gravity feed.

So at least this concept removes some complication from the brake fluid reservoir problem. All I have to do is install a single reservoir somewhere and plumb a single line into a single master cylinder.

And the problem with being self-taught is that I first have to teach myself enough information about hydraulic brakes to make rational choices, and then learn enough fabrication techniques to make it look decent, and then install it all hopefully on the first go-around so I don't waste a lot of money on unnecessary parts and materials.

But at least by exploring these kinds of things in the realm of a garden tractor, the financial and safety impacts of any mistakes I make are limited.

But still and all, I don't want to waste a bunch of money and mess up my nice little garden tractor!

So that makes it intimidating.

Bob

Re: Brakes - What about using cable operated parking brakes? A long time ago some off-roaders would add a 2nd park brake handle and run individual cables back to the rear wheels - "cutting brakes" were handy for tight turns in the bush or stopping a spinning tire if you didn't want the expense of taking your differential apart and putting in a locker.

Garden tractors aren't that heavy, go-cart brake assemblies from Amazon/HarborFreight/PrincessAuto might work...

Mechanical option - https://www.amazon.ca/GREHUA-Mechanical ... =8-11&th=1

Hydraulic option - https://www.amazon.ca/VEVOR-Cylinder-Hy ... C90&sr=8-8

RoamingGnome wrote: ↑Wed Jan 11, 2023 11:45 am Re: Brakes - What about using cable operated parking brakes? A long time ago some off-roaders would add a 2nd park brake handle and run individual cables back to the rear wheels - "cutting brakes" were handy for tight turns in the bush or stopping a spinning tire if you didn't want the expense of taking your differential apart and putting in a locker.

Garden tractors aren't that heavy, go-cart brake assemblies from Amazon/HarborFreight/PrincessAuto might work...

Mechanical option - https://www.amazon.ca/GREHUA-Mechanical ... =8-11&th=1

Hydraulic option - https://www.amazon.ca/VEVOR-Cylinder-Hy ... C90&sr=8-8

Scrolling down a bit in your fist link there is master cylinder with remote reservoir.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08SWB4FYL/ref ... s9dHJ1ZQ==

Dual piston caliper.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07CXX4H3C/ref ... NrPXRydWU=

One set, disk,master cylinder and dual piston caliper. Less $$
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07W13CFG4/ref ... NrPXRydWU=


Gordy

Those are great options . I am going to look in to those for the 446 Blower tractor . As for what I have on Frankie . Now keep in mind the it weighs in at 2314 lbs with loader and snow blower and me in it . So this set up would be more suited for a 6 series loaders . I have the clutch mater from a Toyota Corrola , rear calipers for a Hyundai Sante Fe , and rear rotor from a old Ford Excursion Only thing at the time I could find in a single plate rotor with inside large enough to fit over the axle flange .

Check this out . Simplicity 2156175SM I am working on the restoration of the Allis Chalmers B-112 for my dad . The float is gone and can't see through the lens . So this thing is just a rebranded Simplicity . . The part is still available , just ordered one . Ya ,but what does that mean for Case tractors . It is the same cap and the AC. tank is only 1/2" shorter . I just measured . When the new on arrives I will double check it on my metal tank , but the old one fits a spare Case tank I have . This looks like an option for anyone with a metal tank and wants a simple manual gauge .

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 4:38 pm Check this out . Simplicity 2156175SMimage.png
image.png
I am working on the restoration of the Allis Chalmers B-112 for my dad . The float is gone and can't see through the lens . So this thing is just a rebranded Simplicity . . The part is still available , just ordered one . Ya ,but what does that mean for Case tractors . It is the same cap and the AC. tank is only 1/2" shorter . I just measured . When the new on arrives I will double check it on my metal tank , but the old one fits a spare Case tank I have . This looks like an option for anyone with a metal tank and wants a simple manual gauge .

Thanks for posting this I saw the "PartsTree" logo in the pictures so looked them up. The cap/gauge I need for my AC 919/ Simplicity 7119 is about 5" longer than what you found, everywhere I looked (in the last 2 years) said they were NLA, but PartsTree has them BUT they don't stock the hydrostatic filter that everyone else has said is NLA, got my hopes up when the gauge was there


Gordy

Gordy wrote: ↑Tue Feb 14, 2023 1:32 am

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 4:38 pm Check this out . Simplicity 2156175SMimage.png
image.png
I am working on the restoration of the Allis Chalmers B-112 for my dad . The float is gone and can't see through the lens . So this thing is just a rebranded Simplicity . . The part is still available , just ordered one . Ya ,but what does that mean for Case tractors . It is the same cap and the AC. tank is only 1/2" shorter . I just measured . When the new on arrives I will double check it on my metal tank , but the old one fits a spare Case tank I have . This looks like an option for anyone with a metal tank and wants a simple manual gauge .

Thanks for posting this I saw the "PartsTree" logo in the pictures so looked them up. The cap/gauge I need for my AC 919/ Simplicity 7119 is about 5" longer than what you found, everywhere I looked (in the last 2 years) said they were NLA, but PartsTree has them BUT they don't stock the hydrostatic filter that everyone else has said is NLA, got my hopes up when the gauge was there


image.png


Gordy

Glad it helped you out on you AC, As for the Hydro filter https://www.ebay.com/itm/353432215013 Says it fits and is in stock

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Tue Feb 14, 2023 6:50 am

Gordy wrote: ↑Tue Feb 14, 2023 1:32 am Thanks for posting this I saw the "PartsTree" logo in the pictures so looked them up. The cap/gauge I need for my AC 919/ Simplicity 7119 is about 5" longer than what you found, everywhere I looked (in the last 2 years) said they were NLA, but PartsTree has them BUT they don't stock the hydrostatic filter that everyone else has said is NLA, got my hopes up when the gauge was there


image.png


Gordy

Glad it helped you out on you AC, As for the Hydro filter https://www.ebay.com/itm/353432215013 Says it fits and is in stock

Thanks I can use that on one for sure. It is for an earlier model like my Dads 80 or 81 with the filter mounted remotely forward of the rear end and between the frame rails. I will have to make some measurements to see if it will fit on the 82+ model with a short filter (1671234sm) mounted on the side of the hydrostatic rear end, there is some room for a longer filter before it hits the tire.


Gordy

Always thought that our GT's should have a gas gauge! Would love for that to be part of the dash board too. I like the thread that has details on at least a gas cap but is there anyone out there looking for a dash board gas gauge?

It was in the original post of this thread:

I've ordered, but not yet installed, a fuel gauge and sender for my 4020 with a white plastic tank. I ordered the 150mm length with a black-faced gauge. It was 23.62 US plus tax.
I'll update the thread once I get it installed, but it should be pretty straightforward:
Drain the tank, drill a hole, about 1.25" diameter for the sender to slide through, bolt the sender and its gasket in place (that could be tricky due to limited access) and then wire everything up.

Bob

thebuildist wrote: ↑Wed Feb 15, 2023 5:47 am It was in the original post of this thread:

I've ordered, but not yet installed, a fuel gauge and sender for my 4020 with a white plastic tank. I ordered the 150mm length with a black-faced gauge. It was 23.62 US plus tax.

2023-02-15 05_39_22-52mm Fuel Level Gauge With Fuel Level Sensor 100mm 125mm 150mm 200mm 250mm 400mm.png

I'll update the thread once I get it installed, but it should be pretty straightforward:
Drain the tank, drill a hole, about 1.25" diameter for the sender to slide through, bolt the sender and its gasket in place (that could be tricky due to limited access) and then wire everything up.

Bob

Bob , I put in a sending unit and gauge in Frankie a number of years ago. Universal for a boat 12v adjustable height. Swing arm type . He has a plastic tank as well . I can tell you that you can not get a good seal by just bolting the unit to the plastic .It deforms to much . I ended up making a split ring I could cork screw through the hole and use a couple of counter sunk screws to hold in place while bolting the unit down . The nuts welded to the back of the ring sandwiched the plastic and gasket well enough then to get a good seal . I think a tin tank could have one soldered in place on top to help with the round shape .
This the one I used , It works ok . I want to try the style you have the next time .

Good points. I had actually thought about making an internal flange with drilled and tapped holes and then cut that in half into two arcs, and then fish those through the hole in the tank so that I can put screws through the sender and the tank wall and into those holes.

But now that you bring this up I realize I'd be better off to put permanent studs sticking up out of those internal flanges. And fish those studded flanges through the gas cap hole so that the studs are sticking up ready to bolt the sending unit down over them.

Thanks for the helpful suggestion!

Very intrigued by this post!! I really like the idea of adding a gas gauge. I know that the tank sensor though is the least of my worries too. For me it has always been where to locate the gauge! I know that sounds strange but the dash on our GT's has limited space. For me, I have a 1987 444 plastic dash with the normal switches, etc that is the same as the 4 digit tractors. Do I need to forgo something? or where do we fit the new gauge? Drawings would help..

ras101 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 16, 2023 3:07 pm Very intrigued by this post!! I really like the idea of adding a gas gauge. I know that the tank sensor though is the least of my worries too. For me it has always been where to locate the gauge! I know that sounds strange but the dash on our GT's has limited space. For me, I have a 1987 444 plastic dash with the normal switches, etc that is the same as the 4 digit tractors. Do I need to forgo something? or where do we fit the new gauge? Drawings would help..

The hourmeter on my 4020 is dead, so I intend to just replace the hourmeter with the fuel gauge.

Others have done a nice job of adding an "inverted scoop" to their dashboard, which gives them a new flat face to add ( I think it was 3 ) extra gauges.

Bob

Like you "thebuildis" my hour meter is less than useful. Granted it still works though but just might replace it with a gas gauge.. Thanks

For me I usually check the tank before I use a machine, when I check the oil. Looking down the hole with a led light works for me. I certainly wouldn’t want to put a gauge on every GT. Harry

so I really like the gas gauge idea... I have a 1987 444with plastic dash and hour meter that frankly I will never use (still building). Do I change course here and just change up and fit a gas gauge that might be more useful or stick with the tried and true Ingersoll requirement of a /volt/ammeter?

ras101 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 19, 2023 2:54 pm so I really like the gas gauge idea... I have a 1987 444with plastic dash and hour meter that frankly I will never use (still building). Do I change course here and just change up and fit a gas gauge that might be more useful or stick with the tried and true Ingersoll requirement of a /volt/ammeter?

I think it would come down to preference. How often do you monitor the volt/ amp gauge? Personally I rarely give it more than a glance unless I think I’m having an electrical issue, in which case a volt/ohm meter from the shop is just as good. If I was considering this conversation the amp gauge would go and the fuel gauge would take its place, but that’s just me!

You could always have your cake and eat it too -
4 in 1 combo gauge https://a.co/d/jh4spsl
- I'm sure there are probably programmable digital ones out there or you could always put a 2 or 3 gauge pod above the dash...

@RoamingGnome , one of the members here, @thebuildist , was talking not long ago about a digital display which he would program to round robin through a number of different sensors. Not sure if he continued work on it though. I'm not a big fan of many wires all over the tractor, just don't like the potential issues with them and avoiding them when doing maintenance or other stuff. I'll be happy with only one gauge, amps. But i can see the appeal of more info.

I can tell you that I have 3 guages in Frankie and the one I look at first is the fuel level . Then if I am working him hard I watch the hydra oil temp as the cooling fan is still manual switch . Last is volts when I have all my acc. running , I only have 20 amp output .

I wounder if there is the room to swap out the 2" gauge and install a 3.5" gauge .

worth a look .
The nice thing about Onan's is the pressurized oil system has a port . I put idiot light and sensor in for that already .

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Mon Feb 20, 2023 9:31 am I wounder if there is the room to swap out the 2" gauge and install a 3.5" gauge .

worth a look .
The nice thing about Onan's is the pressurized oil system has a port . I put idiot light and sensor in for that already .

Good question, David.

I haven't made progress on the "rotating multi-gauge". But I will admit that this caught my eye: https://www.ebay.com/itm/403837241809

I'd hook up "oil pressure", "fuel, and "volts" as per normal. But I'd hook up "temp" to hydro oil temp.

But it's a 3.5" gauge, so you'd need room for that.

Bob

thebuildist wrote: ↑Mon Feb 20, 2023 8:27 pm

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Mon Feb 20, 2023 9:31 am I wounder if there is the room to swap out the 2" gauge and install a 3.5" gauge .

worth a look .
The nice thing about Onan's is the pressurized oil system has a port . I put idiot light and sensor in for that already .

Good question, David.

I haven't made progress on the "rotating multi-gauge". But I will admit that this caught my eye: https://www.ebay.com/itm/403837241809

I'd hook up "oil pressure", "fuel, and "volts" as per normal. But I'd hook up "temp" to hydro oil temp.

But it's a 3.5" gauge, so you'd need room for that.

Bob

Ya saw some like that to then saw this one .
https://www.amazon.ca/MISHITI-Digital-V ... 204&sr=8-8
This might be of interest to some .

I like how it comes with all the sensors it needs. That way you can be sure that you don't have compatibility problems.

I wonder if that LCD is truly weatherproof / waterproof?

Bob

thebuildist wrote: ↑Tue Feb 21, 2023 8:35 am I like how it comes with all the sensors it needs. That way you can be sure that you don't have compatibility problems.

I wonder if that LCD is truly weatherproof / waterproof?

Bob

Working humidity:45%-75%RH
I think it would be better of in a cab or under a roof to keep out of direct weather .

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 4:38 pm Check this out . Simplicity 2156175SMimage.png
image.png
I am working on the restoration of the Allis Chalmers B-112 for my dad . The float is gone and can't see through the lens . So this thing is just a rebranded Simplicity . . The part is still available , just ordered one . Ya ,but what does that mean for Case tractors . It is the same cap and the AC. tank is only 1/2" shorter . I just measured . When the new on arrives I will double check it on my metal tank , but the old one fits a spare Case tank I have . This looks like an option for anyone with a metal tank and wants a simple manual gauge .

Ok so the other day I got to doing this up . The cap gauge that Bob adapted to the plastic tank is to wide to fit into a metal tank . I got new cap gauge for the AC B112 tractor , so I took the old one apart . The lense was so bad you could no longer see through it . Used a dremmel and cut it out and replaced with new lence ground down from an old amp gauge . The thing is to short to read correctly and float is gone . I had another one from a different tank . Cut and welded to give me the desired length . Put every thing together , added a couple little vent hole just under the lense on the side, a little tweeking to make to float move up and down freely . New gasket and installed in tank . Seams to do the job and was all old over parts most would have thrown out and some time .