thebuildist wrote: ↑Tue Jan 10, 2023 6:07 pm
I just now reread your post on brakes for wheel slippage.
I had assumed you meant split/ dual brakes. But you're just talking about one pedal? And you just apply medium pressure if you get wheel spin?
Bob
Yes Sir . I don't understand the physics behind it , but I know it works on these tractors . Now when the brake is applied , it does Not put it in neutral . So having resistance and pressure on both the wheels at the same time has something to do with it . It also weight more than most , more like 646.
Well, that's encouraging. A few years back I bought a couple Ford ranger brake disks that should fit, and I have a couple calipers off of a Toyota 4-runner that I think should work. And I bought a pair of master cylinders to drive them. My plan was to design a set of L/R pedals to drive the master cylinders and install split brakes.
But the geometry of connecting the pedals to the cylinders and tucking everything neatly out of sight proved to be a bigger challenge than I had assumed. And I shelved that project and launched off into the loader build instead.
I should circle back around to the brakes soon, but it's intimidating.
But I think I'll follow your lead and just begin with a single cylinder/pedal driving both sides. I could always split it/ improve it later, but for now a single pedal will be a lot easier to accomplish.
Thanks!
Bob
"Never be afraid to try something new. How hard can it be?"
thebuildist wrote: ↑Tue Jan 10, 2023 6:07 pm
I just now reread your post on brakes for wheel slippage.
I had assumed you meant split/ dual brakes. But you're just talking about one pedal? And you just apply medium pressure if you get wheel spin?
Bob
Yes Sir . I don't understand the physics behind it , but I know it works on these tractors . Now when the brake is applied , it does Not put it in neutral . So having resistance and pressure on both the wheels at the same time has something to do with it . It also weight more than most , more like 646.
Well, that's encouraging. A few years back I bought a couple Ford ranger brake disks that should fit, and I have a couple calipers off of a Toyota 4-runner that I think should work. And I bought a pair of master cylinders to drive them. My plan was to design a set of L/R pedals to drive the master cylinders and install split brakes.
But the geometry of connecting the pedals to the cylinders and tucking everything neatly out of sight proved to be a bigger challenge than I had assumed. And I shelved that project and launched off into the loader build instead.
I should circle back around to the brakes soon, but it's intimidating.
But I think I'll follow your lead and just begin with a single cylinder/pedal driving both sides. I could always split it/ improve it later, but for now a single pedal will be a lot easier to accomplish.
Thanks!
Bob
Intimidating?????? Bob????? I never thought I would here that.
The real problem turned out to be plumbing/locating the reservoir for the brake fluid. The cylinders I bought came with attached reservoirs. But that meant that the cylinders could not snuggle up next to each other because the reservoirs are about 4 in wide. So that meant that I had to have some kind of remote reservoir location.
But mounting a remote reservoir and piping it into feed both cylinders proved to be a real challenge. Especially since I'd like the reservoir to be somewhere protected/out of sight. And it has to be above the cylinders because of gravity feed.
So at least this concept removes some complication from the brake fluid reservoir problem. All I have to do is install a single reservoir somewhere and plumb a single line into a single master cylinder.
And the problem with being self-taught is that I first have to teach myself enough information about hydraulic brakes to make rational choices, and then learn enough fabrication techniques to make it look decent, and then install it all hopefully on the first go-around so I don't waste a lot of money on unnecessary parts and materials.
But at least by exploring these kinds of things in the realm of a garden tractor, the financial and safety impacts of any mistakes I make are limited.
But still and all, I don't want to waste a bunch of money and mess up my nice little garden tractor!
So that makes it intimidating.
Bob
"Never be afraid to try something new. How hard can it be?"
Re: Brakes - What about using cable operated parking brakes? A long time ago some off-roaders would add a 2nd park brake handle and run individual cables back to the rear wheels - "cutting brakes" were handy for tight turns in the bush or stopping a spinning tire if you didn't want the expense of taking your differential apart and putting in a locker.
Garden tractors aren't that heavy, go-cart brake assemblies from Amazon/HarborFreight/PrincessAuto might work...
RoamingGnome wrote: ↑Wed Jan 11, 2023 11:45 am
Re: Brakes - What about using cable operated parking brakes? A long time ago some off-roaders would add a 2nd park brake handle and run individual cables back to the rear wheels - "cutting brakes" were handy for tight turns in the bush or stopping a spinning tire if you didn't want the expense of taking your differential apart and putting in a locker.
Garden tractors aren't that heavy, go-cart brake assemblies from Amazon/HarborFreight/PrincessAuto might work...
Those are great options . I am going to look in to those for the 446 Blower tractor . As for what I have on Frankie . Now keep in mind the it weighs in at 2314 lbs with loader and snow blower and me in it . So this set up would be more suited for a 6 series loaders . I have the clutch mater from a Toyota Corrola , rear calipers for a Hyundai Sante Fe , and rear rotor from a old Ford Excursion Only thing at the time I could find in a single plate rotor with inside large enough to fit over the axle flange .
I am working on the restoration of the Allis Chalmers B-112 for my dad . The float is gone and can't see through the lens . So this thing is just a rebranded Simplicity . . The part is still available , just ordered one . Ya ,but what does that mean for Case tractors . It is the same cap and the AC. tank is only 1/2" shorter . I just measured . When the new on arrives I will double check it on my metal tank , but the old one fits a spare Case tank I have . This looks like an option for anyone with a metal tank and wants a simple manual gauge .
DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 4:38 pm
Check this out . Simplicity 2156175SMimage.png
image.png
I am working on the restoration of the Allis Chalmers B-112 for my dad . The float is gone and can't see through the lens . So this thing is just a rebranded Simplicity . . The part is still available , just ordered one . Ya ,but what does that mean for Case tractors . It is the same cap and the AC. tank is only 1/2" shorter . I just measured . When the new on arrives I will double check it on my metal tank , but the old one fits a spare Case tank I have . This looks like an option for anyone with a metal tank and wants a simple manual gauge .
Thanks for posting this I saw the "PartsTree" logo in the pictures so looked them up. The cap/gauge I need for my AC 919/ Simplicity 7119 is about 5" longer than what you found, everywhere I looked (in the last 2 years) said they were NLA, but PartsTree has them BUT they don't stock the hydrostatic filter that everyone else has said is NLA, got my hopes up when the gauge was there
DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 4:38 pm
Check this out . Simplicity 2156175SMimage.png
image.png
I am working on the restoration of the Allis Chalmers B-112 for my dad . The float is gone and can't see through the lens . So this thing is just a rebranded Simplicity . . The part is still available , just ordered one . Ya ,but what does that mean for Case tractors . It is the same cap and the AC. tank is only 1/2" shorter . I just measured . When the new on arrives I will double check it on my metal tank , but the old one fits a spare Case tank I have . This looks like an option for anyone with a metal tank and wants a simple manual gauge .
Thanks for posting this I saw the "PartsTree" logo in the pictures so looked them up. The cap/gauge I need for my AC 919/ Simplicity 7119 is about 5" longer than what you found, everywhere I looked (in the last 2 years) said they were NLA, but PartsTree has them BUT they don't stock the hydrostatic filter that everyone else has said is NLA, got my hopes up when the gauge was there
Gordy wrote: ↑Tue Feb 14, 2023 1:32 am
Thanks for posting this I saw the "PartsTree" logo in the pictures so looked them up. The cap/gauge I need for my AC 919/ Simplicity 7119 is about 5" longer than what you found, everywhere I looked (in the last 2 years) said they were NLA, but PartsTree has them BUT they don't stock the hydrostatic filter that everyone else has said is NLA, got my hopes up when the gauge was there
Thanks I can use that on one for sure. It is for an earlier model like my Dads 80 or 81 with the filter mounted remotely forward of the rear end and between the frame rails. I will have to make some measurements to see if it will fit on the 82+ model with a short filter (1671234sm) mounted on the side of the hydrostatic rear end, there is some room for a longer filter before it hits the tire.
let's go, it's finally time to blow. 
I saw the "PartsTree" logo in the pictures so looked them up. The cap/gauge I need for my AC 919/ Simplicity 7119 is about 5" longer than what you found, everywhere I looked (in the last 2 years) said they were NLA, but PartsTree has them 
they don't stock the hydrostatic filter that everyone else has said is NLA, got my hopes up when the gauge was there 
