Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

Have a J series snow blower for many years now on my 1978 446. Changed all the bearings, jack shaft to the 19 tooth, and pulleys over the years and always use Case belts too (ONLY ONES TO USE!) . So whats my problem you may ask? the chute rotation! even though I spend every summer taking apart and greasing the chute it still sticks, still distorts the turn rod, etc. Eventually I just give up and point the chute directly ahead (it actually throws better in that position) and finish the season. Fortunately I live on a turning circle so casting snow into the center of the circle works well for me anyway. Still like to fix 5the chute rotation though.. This year my son took a hammer to the chute hold downs to reduce the play. Is this just wear in the chute teeth or is there a fix. Any ideas?

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 09, 2022 1:06 pm Have a J series snow blower for many years now on my 1978 446. Changed all the bearings, jack shaft to the 19 tooth, and pulleys over the years and always use Case belts too (ONLY ONES TO USE!) . So whats my problem you may ask? the chute rotation! even though I spend every summer taking apart and greasing the chute it still sticks, still distorts the turn rod, etc. Eventually I just give up and point the chute directly ahead (it actually throws better in that position) and finish the season. Fortunately I live on a turning circle so casting snow into the center of the circle works well for me anyway. Still like to fix 5the chute rotation though.. This year my son took a hammer to the chute hold downs to reduce the play. Is this just wear in the chute teeth or is there a fix. Any ideas?

I have found on many different snow throwers that the coils is not the correct pitch and causes binding . Can you up load a picture of the screw coil and the chute how they mesh .

Hi Dave I will take a pic tomorrow and post. You my friend have hit the nail on the head! I have thought for years that the coil and pitch were wrong. I want to eventually change the whole dynamic to motor driven but reluctant right now because of the chute not functioning properly. Did Case/Ingersoll make a mistake and the pitches are wrong?

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 09, 2022 4:19 pm Hi Dave I will take a pic tomorrow and post. You my friend have hit the nail on the head! I have thought for years that the coil and pitch were wrong. I want to eventually change the whole dynamic to motor driven but reluctant right now because of the chute not functioning properly. Did Case/Ingersoll make a mistake and the pitches are wrong?

I have seen it on many breads as well as Case. I beleave it has to do with the way that type is manufactured . Not everyone comes out just right . 2 out of every 10 I see that style is not right . Some only slightly out others hardly work at all .

Dave, I would put mine in "hardly work at all" category. Thank you for basically confirming my suspicion. I will post pics tomorrow. As I want to move to an electronic chute (I have already bought a new spiral, etc) I just want to fix this..Ray

My newer AHSB48 is "ok". It works most of the time but sometimes binds, part of this is the spiral, the rest of the time it's ice. I've been on the fence whether to go electric or not, mainly because of the binding at times. But seeings how I haven't grown a third arm yet it would be handy.
Tim

Mine was the same, it would always bind up. I tried to fix it and always came up-short. I finally last year threw in the towel and replaced the hand crank with an electric DC motor. It took me quite awhile Nanking a mount for the motor wiring in a momentary toggle switch and then fine tuning it so it worked properly. Then after success I purchased a linear actuator for the chute deflector. Again it took awhile to fine tune it and now they both work great. You got out and play in the snow throwing it where ever you want with a flip of a toggle switch. My neighbor had an old tractor windshield that he offered me last summer. It was all rusted up so I told him no thank you, but I will grab the electric windshield motor. So that is the next project for the 446 snow tractor. In the meantime the 226 says, when is it my turn, work on me. lOL

I have also fought with a few of these By the time I got them working, I often thought it would have been easier to convert it to the Simplicity style, a tube instead of the spiral with cable wound around the tube and chute with a anchor bolt on the side of the chute and another at the center of the tube.


The only binding here is with ice buildup in the overlapping joint between the housing and chute. A propane torch kept in the cab fixes that fairly quickly.



Gordy

Ice seems to be the trouble with my two throwers. And one is worse than the other. Both same thrower that I can see.

Noel

propane1 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 10, 2022 6:24 am Ice seems to be the trouble with my two throwers. And one is worse than the other. Both same thrower that I can see.

Noel

There seems to be no way to get away from that. I tried a thick layer of winter grease in the joint. it worked really good for a while, BUT collected enough sand dirt and debris to be a problem it self. Occasional removal of the chute and wire brushing both surfaces followed by a couple coats of graphite paint seems to work the best for me. The maintenance of keeping it clean and smooth is about the best you can do.

I have given it some thought over the years and consider the spiral to be somewhat flimsy, especially when the chute is frozen and someone tries to force it to turn by really leaning into the crank and starts to bend the spiral out of shape.


Gordy

I know what everyone is saying about the chute not turning freely. But as I converted to an electric chute rotator I’ve never had a problem with it binding up. No lubrication at all and it just simply turns freely with the flip of a switch.

I agree. The electric motor definitely helps. I've noticed on the casters I've had, if I remove the 3 chute mounting brackets and squeeze them tighter and close the gap it helps alot. Keeps the chute from slightly wobbling around and jambing up.

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Jancoe wrote: ↑Sat Dec 10, 2022 6:28 pm I've noticed on the casters I've had, if I remove the 3 chute mounting brackets and squeeze them tighter and close the gap it helps alot. Keeps the chute from slightly wobbling around and jambing up.

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I believe that there should be more of those chute mounting brackets to help from jamming up. Just a thought. Squeezing them tighter does help.


Noel

I recall people also replacing the handle flex joint with a u-joint. Others added a locking collar to the handle just above the handle support bracket. I think it helped keep the handles flex joint from binding.

OK, so my really question is this...it seems that we as a Case community have have the same or very similar issues with our snow casters yet my JD172 (a 1990 model) does not exhibit the same issues (believe me it has others) . Is it the length of the shaft? the angle to the worm? the worm drive itself?. Looking to the team to help fix our mutual issue here. Yeah I will be moving to an electric chute control for sure. What I don't want is to take the problem with me..

@ras101 need to see it .

Yeh! Both of mine have been bound up for years. I usually try to clean them prior to winter and spray silicone grease on them. That seems help till I turn them on!

Bill

Seabee wrote: ↑Mon Dec 12, 2022 6:45 pm Yeh! Both of mine have been bound up for years. I usually try to clean them prior to winter and spray silicone grease on them. That seems help till I turn them on!

Bill

Like I said earlier, if the chute was frozen and the operator put a lot of force on the crank to try and turn the chute the spiral will bend. And it is a royal PITA to get it bent back and not binding as you turn the handle.


Gordy

Just used my snow thrower in damp snow. Never stuck while adjusting the chute and never plugged up. No problem with the stuff the highway snow plow put in end of driveway either. Every thing worked great. Other than it doesn’t throw snow very far. Be nice to have another ten feet distance.


Noel

propane1 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 14, 2022 12:12 pm Just used my snow thrower in damp snow. Never stuck while adjusting the chute and never plugged up. No problem with the stuff the highway snow plow put in end of driveway either. Every thing worked great. Other than it doesn’t throw snow very far. Be nice to have another ten feet distance.


Noel

My chute turning mechanism also seems fine. No idea why, but it doesn't get stuck much.

If you want to throw further get the turbo version Noel!

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Dec 14, 2022 12:34 pm

propane1 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 14, 2022 12:12 pm Just used my snow thrower in damp snow. Never stuck while adjusting the chute and never plugged up. No problem with the stuff the highway snow plow put in end of driveway either. Every thing worked great. Other than it doesn’t throw snow very far. Be nice to have another ten feet distance.


Noel

My chute turning mechanism also seems fine. No idea why, but it doesn't get stuck much.

If you want to throw further get the turbo version Noel!

Where do I get one Eugen ???????????????

Noel

propane1 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 14, 2022 12:45 pm

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Dec 14, 2022 12:34 pm

propane1 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 14, 2022 12:12 pm Just used my snow thrower in damp snow. Never stuck while adjusting the chute and never plugged up. No problem with the stuff the highway snow plow put in end of driveway either. Every thing worked great. Other than it doesn’t throw snow very far. Be nice to have another ten feet distance.


Noel

My chute turning mechanism also seems fine. No idea why, but it doesn't get stuck much.

If you want to throw further get the turbo version Noel!

Where do I get one Eugen ???????????????

Noel

I think it's called a Berco.

Was playing with my shute control tonight, running it back and forth and closely watching the coil. It's clean right now, hasn't seen any snow yet this year.
The main sticking point is this cotter pin. The pin slides in and out a little, occasionally the loop extends far enough that it hits the shute flange. I tried opening the pin up a little to tighten it up but couldn't. Actually made it worse, was time for supper, will deal with it another day.
Tim

Something does not look right . @Timj The coil is suppose to be welded to the rod at both ends and there should be a washer between the cotter pin an the support bracket . It looks like the end of the coil is worn off . I am putting mine back together today and will take picture of the coil before and after .

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Dec 15, 2022 6:50 am Something does not look right . @Timj The coil is suppose to be welded to the rod at both ends and there should be a washer between the cotter pin an the support bracket . It looks like the end of the coil is worn off . I am putting mine back together today and will take picture of the coil before and after .

Yep it looks like the PO was in there I can see weld on the spiral (upper left corner of the picture. I also see flatstock or possibly small angle iron running the length of the center rod


Gordy

Mine from my late 1970 early 80s 48" caster Not sure the exact year

Gordy wrote: ↑Thu Dec 15, 2022 8:57 am

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Dec 15, 2022 6:50 am Something does not look right . @Timj The coil is suppose to be welded to the rod at both ends and there should be a washer between the cotter pin an the support bracket . It looks like the end of the coil is worn off . I am putting mine back together today and will take picture of the coil before and after .

Yep it looks like the PO was in there I can see weld on the spiral (upper left corner of the picture. I also see flatstock or possibly small angle iron running the length of the center rod


Gordy

wounder if it is one of these i seen on Salem's site

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Dec 15, 2022 9:07 am

Gordy wrote: ↑Thu Dec 15, 2022 8:57 am

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Dec 15, 2022 6:50 am Something does not look right . @Timj The coil is suppose to be welded to the rod at both ends and there should be a washer between the cotter pin an the support bracket . It looks like the end of the coil is worn off . I am putting mine back together today and will take picture of the coil before and after .

Yep it looks like the PO was in there I can see weld on the spiral (upper left corner of the picture. I also see flatstock or possibly small angle iron running the length of the center rod


Gordy

wounder if it is one of these i seen on Salem's site image.png

Look like it, I have not seen that before Thanks Dave


Gordy

For the record, mine looks exactly like Dave's.

Mine looks just like Tim's. The one from Salem powers website. Mine is a sb48

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My two look like this. No rating plate on the Case 224 tractor thrower.

Noel

Jancoe wrote: ↑Thu Dec 15, 2022 10:41 am Mine looks just like Tim's. The one from Salem powers website. Mine is a sb48

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What year is yours Jancoe ?

My blower is a AHSB48, so should to be '92-'93. Does look like a bush fix welding on the coil. So at some point they changed the design.
Looks like they changed starting with the L models.

Jancoe wrote: ↑Sat Dec 10, 2022 6:28 pm I agree. The electric motor definitely helps. I've noticed on the casters I've had, if I remove the 3 chute mounting brackets and squeeze them tighter and close the gap it helps alot. Keeps the chute from slightly wobbling around and jambing up.

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Could that really be part of the problem! Yeah I know all about the theory of rust build up,etc. but I oil and grease the cute regularly and it still binds! Is the problem that it is ware? I know this year my son took a hammer (against my better judgement) and "adjusted" the mounting brackets. After a little help the chute started to turn reasonably well. I guess the winter will tell the truth. In the meantime I have bought a new spiral for a later model caster and will fabricate my own solution with - yeah you got it a motor, and controls. Have some ideas here to guys - more projects than time right now though

ras101 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 09, 2023 2:25 pm

Jancoe wrote: ↑Sat Dec 10, 2022 6:28 pm I agree. The electric motor definitely helps. I've noticed on the casters I've had, if I remove the 3 chute mounting brackets and squeeze them tighter and close the gap it helps alot. Keeps the chute from slightly wobbling around and jambing up.

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Could that really be part of the problem! Yeah I know all about the theory of rust build up,etc. but I oil and grease the cute regularly and it still binds! Is the problem that it is ware? I know this year my son took a hammer (against my better judgement) and "adjusted" the mounting brackets. After a little help the chute started to turn reasonably well. I guess the winter will tell the truth. In the meantime I have bought a new spiral for a later model caster and will fabricate my own solution with - yeah you got it a motor, and controls. Have some ideas here to guys - more projects and time right now though

I found greasing the chute ring to be a problem, I am on gravel so some sand gets kicked up and stuck in the grease, jamming the chute. Better to keep it painted and clean. I also keep a propane torch in the cab, to melt the built up snow out of the chutes ring joint.


Gordy

Gordy, when I got my 446 in 2008 it was partly because i had a 250+ foot gravel drive and the 446 came with a snow caster so I know exactly where you are my friend. My problem stems from the crank binding and when I look at the spiral/chute engagement it seems way out of wack and the spiral lifts of the chute! yeah to that level of disengagement!

So another snow country issue! I wear glasses, well I should say I wear "long distance" glasses. Half the time my glasses are on the top of my head!!!!. Well the other day we got a few inches of snow, at least too many that I could ignore (i have an AWD with snow tires mywifeonly2WD with snow tires). so I went outside and tried to start my 446, the key would not even go in the ignition- frozen solid! No issues I thought so went and got the shed key to use my (will remain nameless green machine and snow blower) and the key would not go in the lock!. So not being phased I thought oh well lets go to back up 3 my Ariens walk behind, a 28/10 blower! This started straight away (I privately thank god something was on my side... Well started to clear my drive with no issues and completed that. Thought I had released any demons I might have had and started on my neighbors drive. Well the moment I started I slipped and fell (my 75 year old body felt pain every way to the ground! so I got up and finished the drive too. So I put everything away and went indoors. Later that night I wanted to watch TV and well NO GLASSES! Long story short I lost my glasses when I fell over (yeah they were on my head!) in the mean time a town snow plow had come round and my glasses were in multiple pieces in the snow bank and I am now out over $500 !

So, here's what I know from my spiral, chute issue!!

The center of the spiral and the center of the chute gear needs to be the same.. This I am sure is not new to most of you! Problem is the spiral wears, the spiral shaft wears, the chute hold downs wear too and eventually the wear tolerance builds to a level that jambs the mechanism. Few things I want to look at... the metal to metal contact of the chute to the blower housing, perhaps some form of PTFE washer to reduce friction? New PTFE blocks to place the chute hold downs that don't open up? not sure yet....anyone want to chime in here?

ras101 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:20 pm So another snow country issue! I wear glasses, well I should say I wear "long distance" glasses. Half the time my glasses are on the top of my head!!!!. Well the other day we got a few inches of snow, at least too many that I could ignore (i have an AWD with snow tires mywifeonly2WD with snow tires). so I went outside and tried to start my 446, the key would not even go in the ignition- frozen solid! No issues I thought so went and got the shed key to use my (will remain nameless green machine and snow blower) and the key would not go in the lock!. So not being phased I thought oh well lets go to back up 3 my Ariens walk behind, a 28/10 blower! This started straight away (I privately thank god something was on my side... Well started to clear my drive with no issues and completed that. Thought I had released any demons I might have had and started on my neighbors drive. Well the moment I started I slipped and fell (my 75 year old body felt pain every way to the ground! so I got up and finished the drive too. So I put everything away and went indoors. Later that night I wanted to watch TV and well NO GLASSES! Long story short I lost my glasses when I fell over (yeah they were on my head!) in the mean time a town snow plow had come round and my glasses were in multiple pieces in the snow bank and I am now out over $500 !

Oh no! Sorry to hear about your glasses and the fall Ray! Do you ever keep your old glasses as spare?

ras101 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:03 pm Gordy, when I got my 446 in 2008 it was partly because i had a 250+ foot gravel drive and the 446 came with a snow caster so I know exactly where you are my friend. My problem stems from the crank binding and when I look at the spiral/chute engagement it seems way out of wack and the spiral lifts of the chute! yeah to that level of disengagement!

Sorry guy forgot to post this before . There are a number of reason that a chute may bind from freezing to sand in the grease , rust , sitting caulk eyed due to holder spreading open over time . All of these things with a little arm strong can deform the spiral and make the situation worse . The spiral I have had this problem . Lead angle out of wack in places , off centre , and out of round . so I fit it like this prior to installing the motor drive . I measured it in many spots took an average , calculated the length of standoffs to force it in centre . Welded to back of spiral but not to centre yet . carefully with a hammer and pliers i adjusted the lead angle where needed so that it was the same through out and matched the chute sprocket . When finished , had to make sure that there was no weld interfering with rotating against the sprocket .

I hope this helps other with there spirals .

Normally would but my old glasses were missing the whole nose pad and arm on one side and I told the optician to dump them!

ras101 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:40 pm Normally would but my old glasses were missing the whole nose pad and arm on one side and I told the optician to dump them!

That sucks , Well at least it just your glasses and not your eye . Much easier to replace .

Thanks Dave. Managed to order a new set online for $83 !!! I guess it pays to shop around

So a few days ago I ordered a poly strip to place my scraper bar on my snow caster and this arrived today. The one I bought was from Ebay and is really just a 54 inch by 2 inch length of Poly with no holes or anything else. I will obviously cut this to length soon and drill the holes for the J46 soon..

Oh why not just buy a new metal scraper bar? Well my driveway is Blacktop in reasonable condition. My neighbor on the other hand is basically dirt (50 + driveway with no maintenance. Every time I put the caster down on their drive I destroyed a little more of what they had left of their blacktop. Thought a poly scraper might work better.

I like many caster owners had a problem with getting the chute cranking mechanism to work smoothly. I tried to adjust it many times to no avail. After seeing many members motorized theirs, I was sold on their idea. It took awhile to fabricate, install and then fine tune. When it was all said and done it has worked flawlessly without messing around anymore with the spiral drive. It certainly motivated me to also install a linear actuator to control the chute deflector. It made me a Happy Harry. Harry

So I was messing around with my chute a few weeks ago and jambed the motor up. I stripped the plastic gear in the motor assy. My own fault. Since then, I've removed it to try some plastic weld of some sort on the gear. But since the electric motor is removed my chute will spin left to right extremely easily by hand with one finger. Back when i restored the caster I took the 3 mounting tabs and worked on them. Closed the gap so they are very closed up to the ring and i mean closed. I filed them flat and smooth. I also reworked the top of the chute opening. Meaning I made sure the round hole was round and tight to the chute ring. Hammered the chute hole opening out to stretch the metal to the chute ring so it cant bounce around. The ring stays true to the chute opening and not out of round(off centered) as it spins left to right. Then I Installed the tabs all partially loose and slowly snugged them up while continuing to rotate the chute. It works like a charm now. With that said I almost threw in the towel in the begining on them as I had and currently have a few ideas using uhmw blocks instead of the 3 metal mounts. Think rectangular block with a saw blade cut into it for the chute ring to rest in and then the block bolted to the existing mounting holes. I have a few ideas I thought of and sketched on a piece of paper. I'll have to look for it now.

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Jancoe wrote: ↑Fri Feb 10, 2023 5:36 pm So I was messing around with my chute a few weeks ago and jambed the motor up. I stripped the plastic gear in the motor assy. My own fault. Since then, I've removed it to try some plastic weld of some sort on the gear. But since the electric motor is removed my chute will spin left to right extremely easily by hand with one finger. Back when i restored the caster I took the 3 mounting tabs and worked on them. Closed the gap so they are very closed up to the ring and i mean closed. I filed them flat and smooth. I also reworked the top of the chute opening. Meaning I made sure the round hole was round and tight to the chute ring. Hammered the chute hole opening out to stretch the metal to the chute ring so it cant bounce around. The ring stays true to the chute opening and not out of round(off centered) as it spins left to right. Then I Installed the tabs all partially loose and slowly snugged them up while continuing to rotate the chute. It works like a charm now. With that said I almost threw in the towel in the begining on them as I had and currently have a few ideas using uhmw blocks instead of the 3 metal mounts. Think rectangular block with a saw blade cut into it for the chute ring to rest in and then the block bolted to the existing mounting holes. I have a few ideas I thought of and sketched on a piece of paper. I'll have to look for it now.

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I have had similar thought of uhmw blocks . Question was more about the size , same / wider . How much material needed above the ring . 1 piece or 2 piece blocks. ect.

Wow, me too! I have been thinking for some time to replace with uhmw blocks too!!! To me moving the metal to metal surfaces apart slightly and the retaining the chute tightly has got to help and will more rigidly hold the chute alignment. Not sure though what that would do with spiral alignment, etc.
For my J series I wanted to also look at the spiral. Mine has been in use for, what, 50 plus years now and for me close to 25 years of that!! Obviously if I waited I could buy a "used" part but I would end up with the same 50+ year old part I already have. I opted to buy new spiral and well that means some design work as the J series spiral is welded to the shaft and the new is not..
stay tuned in the J Series snow thrower section in the CAD files here...we are getting there...

Where you might ask - a fully automated system using motors for both the chute rotation control, etc. Yeah, there will be relays! a full electrical circuit, etc. Sorry will not make this winter season but ...

Anyone want to contribute their ideas please contact me and lets make this truly a forum solution.

https://ccigt.com/viewtopic.php?t=332

Post #22 is where I have shown my work. This thread may give you some ideas.

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Another pet peeve of mine with the J series (the only ones I have experience with) is the lack of chain adjustment. I know that members have rectified that with moving the drive sprocket back, etc. For me, I* have already replaced the drive shaft and pulleys and the 19T sprockets etc. Anyone draw up their solution of moving the drive shaft/sprocket rearward? Love to find drawings/close up photos of at least. Spring is usually my design and build time. Want to work with me? Whatever design we end up with I will draw up on Fusion 360 to share..

So Guys, If you have been reading this thread from the beginning you will know I "lost my glasses" while snow blowing. Well guess what I FOUND THEM!!! not at all where I expected but in my car... I have a place for glasses and sun glasses in my overhead console that I rarely use and only for my clip-on sun glasses. Well Webster had a 60+ degree day on Wednesday and the sun was unbelievable so I reached for my clip on's.. Guess what my glasses fell out!! I must be loosing it guys...

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 12:40 pm Another pet peeve of mine with the J series (the only ones I have experience with) is the lack of chain adjustment. I know that members have rectified that with moving the drive sprocket back, etc. For me, I* have already replaced the drive shaft and pulleys and the 19T sprockets etc. Anyone draw up their solution of moving the drive shaft/sprocket rearward? Love to find drawings/close up photos of at least. Spring is usually my design and build time. Want to work with me? Whatever design we end up with I will draw up on Fusion 360 to share..

That's something I need to do as well, just not sure which way to go. @DavidBarkey has a system that does not move the rear sprocket, rather pushes the chain in with a hard plastic thingy to tension it.

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 1:24 pm So Guys, If you have been reading this thread from the beginning you will know I "lost my glasses" while snow blowing. Well guess what I FOUND THEM!!! not at all where I expected but in my car... I have a place for glasses and sun glasses in my overhead console that I really use and only for my clip-on sun glasses. Well Webster had a 60+ degree day on Wednesday and the sun was unbelievable so I reached for my clip on's.. Guess what my glasses fell out!! I must be loosing it guys...

the good news is that you did not find them in multiple pieces.

Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 1:24 pm

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 12:40 pm Another pet peeve of mine with the J series (the only ones I have experience with) is the lack of chain adjustment. I know that members have rectified that with moving the drive sprocket back, etc. For me, I* have already replaced the drive shaft and pulleys and the 19T sprockets etc. Anyone draw up their solution of moving the drive shaft/sprocket rearward? Love to find drawings/close up photos of at least. Spring is usually my design and build time. Want to work with me? Whatever design we end up with I will draw up on Fusion 360 to share..

That's something I need to do as well, just not sure which way to go. @DavidBarkey has a system that does not move the rear sprocket, rather pushes the chain in with a hard plastic thingy to tension it.

Perhaps we can get Dave to share his ideas? even if there are no drawings, perhaps a few pics? What about it Dave?

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 1:52 pm
Perhaps we can get Dave to share his ideas? even if there are no drawings, perhaps a few pics? What about it Dave?

He already did that. Have a look
https://ccigt.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t= ... uhmw#p5824

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 1:24 pm So Guys, If you have been reading this thread from the beginning you will know I "lost my glasses" while snow blowing. Well guess what I FOUND THEM!!! not at all where I expected but in my car... I have a place for glasses and sun glasses in my overhead console that I rarely use and only for my clip-on sun glasses. Well Webster had a 60+ degree day on Wednesday and the sun was unbelievable so I reached for my clip on's.. Guess what my glasses fell out!! I must be loosing it guys...

I am not laughing at you but rather with you as do things like that all the time and I am a little younger than you . I go to the tool box and stand there like a deer caught in the headlights because I can't remember what it is I forgot to remember what I was after at least 6 times a day . More Tea gets heated up in the microwave multiple times and then drank cold because I forgot it again and again . The best part is waking up to a new woman in my bed every morning . The keeps saying I am the same one for all these years .

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 2:26 pm The best part is waking up to a new woman in my bed every morning . The keeps saying I am the same one for all these years .

good one Mr Dave!!!

Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 1:24 pm

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 12:40 pm Another pet peeve of mine with the J series (the only ones I have experience with) is the lack of chain adjustment. I know that members have rectified that with moving the drive sprocket back, etc. For me, I* have already replaced the drive shaft and pulleys and the 19T sprockets etc. Anyone draw up their solution of moving the drive shaft/sprocket rearward? Love to find drawings/close up photos of at least. Spring is usually my design and build time. Want to work with me? Whatever design we end up with I will draw up on Fusion 360 to share..

That's something I need to do as well, just not sure which way to go. @DavidBarkey has a system that does not move the rear sprocket, rather pushes the chain in with a hard plastic thingy to tension it.

So far so good . It has been working as planned .

So Dave what do you recommend? it seems like there are two approaches to the auger problem. My aim here guys is to try to design and draw a solution to our J series blowers that keeps the auger close and permits maximum snow throw. Seen a few pics other solutions but also interested in yours too...

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 2:38 pm So Dave what do you recommend? it seems like there are two approaches to the auger problem. My aim here guys is to try to design and draw a solution to our J series blowers that keeps the auger close and permits maximum snow throw. Seen a few pics other solutions but also interested in yours too...

I , after straightening the auger and cleaning up all the edges to make as true as possible . Index it to as close as it would go . I have a stock of UHMW plastic from a factory refit . So I chose to do the guide method to take up the slack . For others a idler sprocket on top may be the way to go. I personally am not a fan of swinging the shaft as it changes the contact angle of the belt and the chain . I know the angle change is slight do to the length of the shaft . Still not a fan .

My 2 cents worth . You may keep the change .

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 12:40 pm Another pet peeve of mine with the J series (the only ones I have experience with) is the lack of chain adjustment. I know that members have rectified that with moving the drive sprocket back, etc. For me, I* have already replaced the drive shaft and pulleys and the 19T sprockets etc. Anyone draw up their solution of moving the drive shaft/sprocket rearward? Love to find drawings/close up photos of at least. Spring is usually my design and build time. Want to work with me? Whatever design we end up with I will draw up on Fusion 360 to share..

Look up the parts manuals for the exploded view drawings for the S and SB models There were 2 different versions to move the drive sprocket. 1 was 3 holes for the top bolt on the bearing. 2 is the slotted hole with the eye bolt to pull it to the rear.


Gordy

I personally like Dave's solution the best, though finding UHMW material may be difficult. My second favourite solution is the one that tensions the chain by tightening the nut/bolt towards the back, sort of like a chainsaw tensioning mechanism.

Edit: I take back what I said about difficult to find UHMW. A block 2.5 x 2.5 x 8 inches on our frozen amazon is 36 CAD. Look for uhmw tapping block on amazon US and you'll find it even cheaper. I will wait for my chain to stretch and then I'll make a decision which way to go.

Block of good hardwood would do the trick. For me, much easier to get and a lot cheaper. Hehe.

Noel.

propane1 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 18, 2023 6:32 am Block of good hardwood would do the trick. For me, much easier to get and a lot cheaper. Hehe.

Noel.

Ya , A trick my grandfather showed me about hard wood bearings for inboard board shaft bearings back in the day . Was to shape a very dry piece of maple or other fine grain HW . Make it a little small because it will swell . Submerge in hot oil over night . These were the first oil light bearings I think . Same was done for the ones that went though the hull . They had a groove cut in and a wick seal and a small cup you kept full of oil . They worked surprisingly well , but you had to maintain them or you sunk .

Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 3:56 pm I personally like Dave's solution the best, though finding UHMW material may be difficult. My second favourite solution is the one that tensions the chain by tightening the nut/bolt towards the back, sort of like a chainsaw tensioning mechanism.

Edit: I take back what I said about difficult to find UHMW. A block 2.5 x 2.5 x 8 inches on our frozen amazon is 36 CAD. Look for uhmw tapping block on amazon US and you'll find it even cheaper. I will wait for my chain to stretch and then I'll make a decision which way to go.

Even easier then that for you @Eugen . Grab a piece next time by , Cheap free to good home . What I got (a pile of pieces) I paid $10 for and more than got my money worth and more making NLA bushing for people for which I been paid well for .

UHMW plastic guides for caster drive chain with 19 tooth sprocket up grade

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sat Feb 18, 2023 2:02 pm
Even easier then that for you @Eugen . Grab a piece next time by , Cheap free to good home . What I got (a pile of pieces) I paid $10 for and more than got my money worth and more making NLA bushing for people for which I been paid well for .

You'll get a bread for it Dave.

Eugen wrote: ↑Sat Feb 18, 2023 4:13 pm

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sat Feb 18, 2023 2:02 pm
Even easier then that for you @Eugen . Grab a piece next time by , Cheap free to good home . What I got (a pile of pieces) I paid $10 for and more than got my money worth and more making NLA bushing for people for which I been paid well for .

You'll get a bread for it Dave.

I like bread .

So guys, I asked around a couple, or three of our go-to suppliers for parts for a C29877 adjustment screw to upgrade the chain tensioner to the later design that moved the jack shaft back. Yeah, that's the part number with the square hole one end. End result was no one had any in stock and no longer available. Barneveld however said they had been trying to get some made! thank you Barnveld..
I know if I need I can/could always design and create my own but if I could/can buy from a supplier then I prefer to do that and it seems Barneveld is trying to step up.
With Case/Ingersoll out of business we need more sources for even some of our basic parts now and I am glad that Barneveld has taken that approach too.
Don't need the part for a while so see what Barneveld can provide ...

So guys, do I proceed bringing the j series snow caster up to the standards of the later casters with case implied changes to chain tension? or do I progress towards adding a conventional chain tensioner by adding a intermediate gear/tension block? Either way I will attempt to provide 3D drawings

Right now I am on the edge... so looking for help here in my soon to start design?

Wow just looked at the page count here guys...thank you for your commitment and support..