I may as well post an update. The seal kit for two lift and one bucket cylinders have been ordered from hercules, but they won't be here until next week. Turns out that they didn't have one of the o-rings in stock and the order then is delayed so all parts are shipped together.
Haven't done anything to the out of round rod end, but ordered a couple of drill bits, 3/4 and 1 inch, found on amazon at a decent price. Been waiting for a good reason to buy these bits for a while.
Last night I finished the bucket rod eye. Chose to go simple on this, added up interior material with the welder and then drilled with 3/4 bit which I ground a little smaller in diameter. Finished with the reamer. Much like me, not pretty but anatomically sound
All the seals, backing rings and o-rings are a perfect fit and they have been assembled on pistons and glands. This is a task best made at room temperature. I also used a cup with hot water to warm up all the backing rings and seals for installation. Especially the piston backing rings need to stretch quite a bit to make it over the collar and you don't want to risk breaking them. Another thing to pay attention to is the orientation of the rod wiper, lip towards outside. Gland inner seal, cup towards the inside. And backing ring for the outer o-ring of the gland, on the outside (see pic). Also, the backing rings have a flat profile on a side, and the slightest curved profile on the other. The curved profile must face the o-ring. I'll add a couple of drawings later.
The three cylinders are assembled. The interior retaining rings I ordered for the lift cylinders were too thick so I used the old ones which were fine. All other parts on the list fit perfectly. The real test will be if they don't leak.
As long as you debured the top of the cylinder and use a good dose of "slidem in there " , they will be just fine .
Keep your pins well lubed . It occurred to me that is why the piston was galled up . AS parts move under load and the pins need to rotate in the ends of the cylinders . When they can't move freely side loads are created pressing the piston against the cylinder wall . Piston being the softer of the two took the damage. Although minor you don't want metal in the system . Even the tractors need a good lube job now and then to keep them happy .
Today I saw these wheels for sale and would have liked to be able to get them, but they were too far. The original rims on this 644 have a couple of big holes from rust. Oh well
Working on the front upper frame now, of which one side arm (22) is missing, and the very front square frame (13) was badly bent in on the lower side. Not having a press, the 3 lb mallet was employed to straighten it.
Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Jan 13, 2023 8:43 pm
Today I saw these wheels for sale and would have liked to be able to get them, but they were too far. The original rims on this 644 have a couple of big holes from rust. Oh well
21F286B8-3206-458A-B205-C6B64F9DE226.jpeg
Working on the front upper frame now, of which one side arm (22) is missing, and the very front square frame (13) was badly bent in on the lower side. Not having a press, the 3 lb mallet was employed to straighten it.
14E94549-088A-48D0-8CD0-8C7B9D930DB9.jpeg
Can you take measurement of the missing part from the other loader ?
DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sat Jan 14, 2023 6:15 am
Can you take measurement of the missing part from the other loader ?
It's just an angle iron 24.5" long, with 1.2"x3.1" angle and 3/16 thick. At the moment I want it functional so I just used an angle iron I had around. It gives the upper frame stiffness and that's all that matters now.
Whew , boy that wheel is nasty Eugen. A lot of clean up needed there for sure. Any welding method would work there.
A little thinking and fitting time, with a mig welder will fix the hood.
