$70.98 loader repair
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2022 1:15 pm
So I've never gotten my loader cylinders to stop bleeding down. I can drastically slow it down by jiggling the loader valve handle, so that's solidly where my suspicion lies.
Yes, I've been told how to test it, NO I haven't done it. Because I KNOW there's something fishy with the valve, so first fix that, then go from there.
The valve itself is mid-grade, surprisingly rich for my cheap blood. My very first valve was $50, and I cut a PB port into it and did my first trials with it. The ones where the line blew out and soaked me with oil.
I figured out that my design was the real problem, but I also decided to SPLURGE and pay $200 for a "better quality" spool valve. So I ordered one from Northern Tool. I should have known better. It's starting to seem like you either pay $700 for the name brand, or finesse and fix whatever is defective on the cheaper version you buy. Whether that's $50 cheap, or $200 cheap, same deal.
SO, I've learned my lesson, and bought a new valve, the cheapest I could find that fits my hoses. I'll no doubt have to "fix" it, but no more so than the high-dollar valve that's on there now.
The reason I didn't reinstall my $50 valve is because it came with all BSP thread ports, and I had to make/buy a bunch of adapters to hook up to it the first time. But since then I've completely reconfigured my piping scheme, and those adapters won't work for the hoses that are coming out of the spool valve now. So it's just about as cheap to buy a valve with the correct ports as it is to buy the adapters.
BESIDES which, I have bought a special valve, one with a special feature that I intend to harness very soon: A third spool.
So I now have in my grubby little hands an extra spool on my loader valve, a pair of 5' long hoses, and an extra cylinder with about 10" of ram travel.
Any guesses as to what I might be up to?
Bob
Yes, I've been told how to test it, NO I haven't done it. Because I KNOW there's something fishy with the valve, so first fix that, then go from there.
The valve itself is mid-grade, surprisingly rich for my cheap blood. My very first valve was $50, and I cut a PB port into it and did my first trials with it. The ones where the line blew out and soaked me with oil.
I figured out that my design was the real problem, but I also decided to SPLURGE and pay $200 for a "better quality" spool valve. So I ordered one from Northern Tool. I should have known better. It's starting to seem like you either pay $700 for the name brand, or finesse and fix whatever is defective on the cheaper version you buy. Whether that's $50 cheap, or $200 cheap, same deal.
SO, I've learned my lesson, and bought a new valve, the cheapest I could find that fits my hoses. I'll no doubt have to "fix" it, but no more so than the high-dollar valve that's on there now.
The reason I didn't reinstall my $50 valve is because it came with all BSP thread ports, and I had to make/buy a bunch of adapters to hook up to it the first time. But since then I've completely reconfigured my piping scheme, and those adapters won't work for the hoses that are coming out of the spool valve now. So it's just about as cheap to buy a valve with the correct ports as it is to buy the adapters.
BESIDES which, I have bought a special valve, one with a special feature that I intend to harness very soon: A third spool.
So I now have in my grubby little hands an extra spool on my loader valve, a pair of 5' long hoses, and an extra cylinder with about 10" of ram travel.
Any guesses as to what I might be up to?
Bob