Case D100 backhoe

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thebuildist United States of America
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Re: Case D100 backhoe

Post by thebuildist »

I appreciate the honest feedback.

It seems like I'd be crazy not to buy it. But I also might be crazy to try to install it. Like @Jancoe pointed out, it's bigger than I really want. And the last thing I want to do is snap my transaxle in half.

So it seems like I'd definitely have to reinforce my axle tubes. I'm sure I've heard someone, maybe on the other site, insisting that the transaxle (or is it the front axle?) is made of cast steel, not cast iron. But I can't recall for sure.

So either I pass on it, or I buy it and try to resell it/trade it for something smaller, or I buy it and plan to install it, including building my own outriggers and reinforcing my rear transaxle.

What's the weight limit on my turf tires? Anybody know offhand?

Bob
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Re: Case D100 backhoe

Post by Eugen »

FWIW, the bucket, boom, and dipper are not that heavy. I took the dipper + bucket off of mine and can push them on the ground easily. The square element that the left-right moving assembly is part of looks like it's as heavy as the rest all together. Maybe you can use just the boom dipper and bucket an make your own left right swing mechanism.

As for the rear axles, how about a bolt-on reinforcing brace using half inch plate? Is the webbing on the transaxle of the 646lbh is thicker than 1/2"?
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Re: Case D100 backhoe

Post by thebuildist »

So maybe when I make the subframe, instead of slinging the rear end from the 3pt hitch frame, I instead build a heavy duty hook bracket (3/4" or even 1" plate) and have those hooks hang from the axle tubes right out at the outer bearing. That bearing has to hold the weight regardless, but this way there's almost no bending pressure put on the axle tubes. I'll have to work out a way to get it to be stationary, so that it can't move up/down/left/right once it's in place. Should be doable, and still easy to remove.
image.png
That also lets me leave the 3pt hitch installed, which speeds up installation/removal.

Then the question is, are my actual wheels and tires up to the job? Right around 1000lbs hanging about 36" behind the axle, with enough weight in the front to counter it means surges of at least about 2500 lbs hanging from the rear axle outer bearing housings And surges of up to about 1500 lbs on either rear tire. As I say, I think the outer housing and bearings are up to the job. Are the rear wheels/tires going to stand up to that?

Bob
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Re: Case D100 backhoe

Post by JSinMO »

Bob, you certainly have much more knowledge, experience, and talent than I do at fabricating this sort of thing so I hope you don’t mind my questions.

Wouldn’t you have to also tie the axel to the frame to negate that same force horizontally? Or would welding a bar across the piece you drew up be sufficient?

I don’t know if this will be helpful to you but here are some pictures of my subframe.
D7491E12-239C-40F2-A2CD-ED3ED6DCFD1A.jpeg
My backhoe is attached to the subframe with 4 pins, but that could be converted to 3 point fairly easily.
B8DF2CF0-D608-4E30-BC54-77301CF7ABB6.jpeg
EBF64DA4-FABF-428A-9518-8FC9600A7396.jpeg
The subframe with counter weight is bolted to the tractor frame.

I can’t think of a reason that your wheels wouldn’t handle that weight. I think the stiffer your sidewalls are on the tires the better. Might need a heavier ply tire?
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Re: Case D100 backhoe

Post by Eugen »

Very valid points Jeff! Also thank you for posting these pictures @JSinMO very useful for me too! :highfive:


Went out and snapped a couple of pics of that boom and stabilizers, maybe helpful I don't know.

53733E64-D473-4288-A7C2-21DF08887DF1.jpeg


C9F2B720-CC9F-4F14-A623-A10ECB60C8A5.jpeg
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Re: Case D100 backhoe

Post by thebuildist »

@Jancoe

I'm thinking of something along this general line:

https://images.app.goo.gl/Ft37CEDDecT2YYeU8

The long rails I'm thinking would be made of steel plate, about 4 in high. And either half or 3/4 in thick.

You would back up over the rails end up against the main backhoe frame.

The front end of the frame would have to have grooves where it could engage some pins and still slide forward and backward. For that I'd weld or bolt some kind of ears or shackles under the frame up front. Or even attach something to the snap fast pins.

But you'd back up just far enough to engage the front of the frame in these sliding grooves. Then hook up the hydraulics and push the hoe boom down. Which would have the effect of lifting up the rear axle hooks/shackles.

The more I think about it, the more I think I would build some square cast iron collars that are split in the center and have a hole the same diameter as the outer axle tubes.
So those heavy square collars would be permanently bolted around the axle tubes. And it would spread the load over a larger area of the axle tube itself, and prevent a pinpoint load. And then the hooks that I drew in the picture would actually be heavy horizontal shackles that will slide forward over those square collars.

So push the boom down which will lift the backhoe frame and rear shackles up in the air and once they're the proper height then push the dipper out away from you and that will push the whole subframe and shackles forward to engage those square collars. Then drop in a couple vertical pins to lock the shackles around the collars. And a couple heavy horizontal pins up near the front sliding grooves.

At that point it's tied heavily/firmly to the rear axle. And it's locked parallel with the tractor frame by the front pins. It can jiggle but not move.

I don't think it should be too technically challenging. The hard part is tracking down the 3/4 plate.

For a front weight it's pretty hard to get significant weight under the front axle up there. There's just not a lot of space to put it. If you put it between the front tires, then there's limited volume. That's where a big iron casting would come in handy. But I don't have the wherewithal to do that.

I do have a 400 plus pound front weight bracket that attaches to the snap fast. It's a steel bracket that holds a total of six two inch by 4 inch by 48 inch steel weights in a horizontal fashion as if it's a front bumper. But it sticks out pretty far and I think would be struck by the bucket.

I could sling those weights crosswise under the frame behind the front wheels, essentially where the deck is at now, but being behind the front wheels doesn't do much to counter all that leverage that the hoe has. So I don't think that's workable.

It would be great to attach a smooth 1" piece of plate steel to the bottom face of the loader bucket. The bucket would still be usable, albeit with less lifting capacity. That plate would weigh around 250 lbs and be 5.5 feet from the rear axle. That plus the current weight of the loader structure I think would adequately counterbalance the hoe. Not overkill, but enough.

But it would be a little tricky figuring out how to attach it, and pretty expensive.

For free I could just build some brackets where I could attach my current counterweight pieces. There are six pieces that weigh around 65 lb each. So I could mount two or three of them vertically to each of the outer lower faces of the loader boom. Two each side would probably be plenty. But if not two then surely three would do the trick.

It might look a little janky, but it should work fine, and the hoe wouldn't be installed terribly often.

That leaves the final need to create outriggers. It seems to me that for the cost and the complexity, that winged outriggers give you a lot more bang for your buck, because they spread your load out sideways and make the tractor less tippy to the left and right. I don't think they weigh any extra. And they wouldn't cost any extra to manufacture. So that's probably the direction I will go.

My final concern is the hydraulic reservoir volume. How big is the reservoir on an LBH model?

Bob
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Re: Case D100 backhoe

Post by JSinMO »

As usual Bob you have a very well thought out plan. I would expect no less! I think you’re right, finding a good way to get the counter weight out at the bucket is the way to go. My belly weight starts 2 feet forward from the center line of the rear axle and ends 4 1/2 feet from the center line of the rear axle at the front of the tractor and it seem to be a little light.

According to the manual my 648 lbh has a total capacity of 13 quarts of hydraulic oil, at a flow rate of 9 gallons per minute at 3600 RPM.

I hope the deal for the backhoe works out for you on Monday. If it does, I look forward to the build! :thumbsup:
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Re: Case D100 backhoe

Post by Eugen »

The parts manual for the 644 loader and lbh shows two different part numbers for the axles. Does anyone know if the axle of the lbh is larger diameter?
5D20D812-C888-4748-82C3-22BD298EBBF8.jpeg
13F14D27-8433-43E9-A65D-04352CAF922C.jpeg
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Re: Case D100 backhoe

Post by Jancoe »

Yes the backhoe models have 1.5" longer shafts. The shaft diameter at the outside bushing is larger than the inner bushing. I replaced my bh axle bushings a while back and saved my old bushings for referencing if I ever needed. I'll have to take a look to see how much bigger. I'm thinking it was 1/4" larger.

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Re: Case D100 backhoe

Post by Eugen »

Jancoe wrote: Sun Mar 26, 2023 11:51 pm Yes the backhoe models have 1.5" longer shafts. The shaft diameter at the outside bushing is larger than the inner bushing. I replaced my bh axle bushings a while back and saved my old bushings for referencing if I ever needed. I'll have to take a look to see how much bigger. I'm thinking it was 1/4" larger.

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I don't really understand this stuff with the bushing, sorry. Is the actual axle thicker?
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