Best option to flush the hydraulic fluids
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Best option to flush the hydraulic fluids
Since my tractor had been sitting for an unknown amount of time, I wanted to change all the fluids before really putting it to work. I'm worried it may or may not be the right hydraulic oil in there...
Today I received my hydraulic oil filters. So I think I'm ready to tackle the job. My plan was to replace all the oil use it a bit then change it again just in case.
My question is, should I keep the current filter on while I fill and flush or should I use one of the Oem one I just received. Or am I over thinking it and don't need to do that ??
Filters are a bit pricey when you send them up to Canada so I am trying avoid using one just to discard it after a few hours of use.
Today I received my hydraulic oil filters. So I think I'm ready to tackle the job. My plan was to replace all the oil use it a bit then change it again just in case.
My question is, should I keep the current filter on while I fill and flush or should I use one of the Oem one I just received. Or am I over thinking it and don't need to do that ??
Filters are a bit pricey when you send them up to Canada so I am trying avoid using one just to discard it after a few hours of use.
- Timj
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Re: Best option to flush the hydraulic fluids
Given the low hours on your tractor, I think it's pretty fair to assume that the oil and filter are original.
If the oil that's in it now looks good, not milky, I would just drain it, change the filter, refill with quality 15w-40 diesel oil and call it good. Change on regular schedule thereafter.
If milky, meaning moisture in it, then I would do a more thorough draining, and re-change after running a little.
Tim
If the oil that's in it now looks good, not milky, I would just drain it, change the filter, refill with quality 15w-40 diesel oil and call it good. Change on regular schedule thereafter.
If milky, meaning moisture in it, then I would do a more thorough draining, and re-change after running a little.
Tim
Last edited by Timj on Thu Nov 17, 2022 10:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
deck's on, blades sharp, let's go it's time to mow
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Re: Best option to flush the hydraulic fluids
I’m pretty new to these tractors too. The fellas here have much more experience than I do, but I can tell you what I did.
My 648 had not been run in 10 years when I got it, and it sat outside that whole time. I drained the system as completely as I possibly could refilled it ran the tractor and drained it again. I had a lot of water in mine from sitting out side. You may not have to “rinse and repeat” like I did.
I continued to drain and refill until I was satisfied the water was out of the system. As you said the filters are pricy, so I cleaned the old one up and used it for this process. Once I was ready for the final fill I put the new filter in. This process worked fine for me. I still have some leaky cylinders to fix, but the oil leaking out is the right kind and it’s clean! On the 446 we recently brought home the oil wasn’t milky and look fairly good so it was just a drain and refill and it was fine. Your tractor looks to be in a lot better condition than mine were so hopefully a drain and refill is all you need.
Hope this helps you!
My 648 had not been run in 10 years when I got it, and it sat outside that whole time. I drained the system as completely as I possibly could refilled it ran the tractor and drained it again. I had a lot of water in mine from sitting out side. You may not have to “rinse and repeat” like I did.
I continued to drain and refill until I was satisfied the water was out of the system. As you said the filters are pricy, so I cleaned the old one up and used it for this process. Once I was ready for the final fill I put the new filter in. This process worked fine for me. I still have some leaky cylinders to fix, but the oil leaking out is the right kind and it’s clean! On the 446 we recently brought home the oil wasn’t milky and look fairly good so it was just a drain and refill and it was fine. Your tractor looks to be in a lot better condition than mine were so hopefully a drain and refill is all you need.
Hope this helps you!
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Re: Best option to flush the hydraulic fluids
Thanks for the replies. I had a look at it is an Ingersoll filter down there!! I guess I can assume its probably the original oil.
In hind sight I should have added a non oem filter when I placed my order just to have one on hand just in case.
In hind sight I should have added a non oem filter when I placed my order just to have one on hand just in case.
- MattA
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Re: Best option to flush the hydraulic fluids
For the first few years I owned my 4016 I ran shell rotella 15W-40 (Ingersoll calls out of 20W-40) in the summer and 5W-20 (mobil1 full synthetic) in the winter. I got tired of changing the oil every season and trying to stop the drain plug from seeping oil. I saw someone on the old forum running 5W40 full synthetic year round. I've been doing this for the past 3 years (mobil 1 full synthetic). I did top it off with a quart of 20W50 full synthetic last summer. People on the old forum used to get into quite the oil debates... Running the heavier weight oil in the winter can cause your low pressure return hose in the tower to burst. I like to let my tractor idle for a few minutes to warm up while I shovel the first few feet of my driveway before using the snocaster.
Ingersoll 4016
- thebuildist
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Re: Best option to flush the hydraulic fluids
It's funny you should mention that Matt. On the 4000 series tractors, there is a close 90 degree fitting leading to the oil filter housing. It's a 5/8 smooth barb on the outside, but 3/8 npt screwing into the housing. And that 3/8 npt is thick wall. So the actual through hole ID is right around .375".MattA wrote: ↑Thu Nov 17, 2022 9:17 pm For the first few years I owned my 4016 I ran shell rotella 15W-40 (Ingersoll calls out of 20W-40) in the summer and 5W-20 (mobil1 full synthetic) in the winter. I got tired of changing the oil every season and trying to stop the drain plug from seeping oil. I saw someone on the old forum running 5W40 full synthetic year round. I've been doing this for the past 3 years (mobil 1 full synthetic). I did top it off with a quart of 20W50 full synthetic last summer. People on the old forum used to get into quite the oil debates... Running the heavier weight oil in the winter can cause your low pressure return hose in the tower to burst. I like to let my tractor idle for a few minutes to warm up while I shovel the first few feet of my driveway before using the snocaster.
So we have a 5/8 line running from the pump to the TCV. And 5/8 lines from the TCV to the motor and back. And then a bigger 3/4-in line from the TCV to the rubber return hose. (Because a larger chamber allows the pressure to dissipate) but then we neck down to the 5/8 ID rubber return hose. It's not ideal, but we can get away with it. And at the end of that rubber return hose we ask all that fluid to neck WAY DOWN through a 3/8" orifice. A full 40% smaller than the high pressure lines farther upstream. Necking down all that flow results in back pressure. The colder the oil, the higher the back pressure.
It wouldn't surprise me if that rubber return hose saw 300 or more PSI of back pressure! Is it any wonder that they blow?
IMHO the factory engineers really blew it on that call.
Bob
"Never be afraid to try something new. How hard can it be?"
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Re: Best option to flush the hydraulic fluids
I don't think I'm ready to tackle a bursed pipe! The tractoris an insulated garage. If I end up using it in the winter I'll make sure ill let it warm up
- Gordy
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Re: Best option to flush the hydraulic fluids
Info from guys on the old site for warm up in cold weather. Start up at 1/4 throttle or less and let run 3-5 minutes, then shift the rear axle to neutral and ez the travel control lever to full forward or reverse and let run for another 3-5 minutes. Never had a problem with my 224's doing this with 15-40 in them even at -15f.
Gordy
Gordy
- MattA
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Re: Best option to flush the hydraulic fluids
I haven't tried this in a 4 digit tractor but I think if you jumped the seat switch, you could do this. My garage is usually about 20°F when I'm snow blowing. I've never experienced anything like the video below.Gordy wrote: ↑Thu Nov 17, 2022 11:02 pm Info from guys on the old site for warm up in cold weather. Start up at 1/4 throttle or less and let run 3-5 minutes, then shift the rear axle to neutral and ez the travel control lever to full forward or reverse and let run for another 3-5 minutes. Never had a problem with my 224's doing this with 15-40 in them even at -15f.
Gordy
This guy (earthnstrings on the old forum) lives in New Hampshire:
Ingersoll 4016
- Timj
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Re: Best option to flush the hydraulic fluids
I have pretty much always done like this or as Gordy described with my 4118. I have my seat switch jumpered other than putting a little more resistance on it, the pump is circulating oil through the system right from startup anyway. Maybe helps move the fluid in the differential.MattA wrote: ↑Fri Nov 18, 2022 9:28 amI haven't tried this in a 4 digit tractor but I think if you jumped the seat switch, you could do this. My garage is usually about 20°F when I'm snow blowing. I've never experienced anything like the video below.Gordy wrote: ↑Thu Nov 17, 2022 11:02 pm Info from guys on the old site for warm up in cold weather. Start up at 1/4 throttle or less and let run 3-5 minutes, then shift the rear axle to neutral and ez the travel control lever to full forward or reverse and let run for another 3-5 minutes. Never had a problem with my 224's doing this with 15-40 in them even at -15f.
Gordy
This guy (earthnstrings on the old forum) lives in New Hampshire:
deck's on, blades sharp, let's go it's time to mow