Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

Posted: **Sun Sep 04, 2022 11:47 pm**

This thread will primarily be about my efforts to bring this truck back into service and back on the road. If you will indulge me I’d like to start this with the story of the truck.
To do that we have to start at the beginning, or as close as we can get. February of 1970 to be exact. That’s when a farmer bought this truck from the original owner for use on his farm. The truck had been rolled on its passenger side by the original owner. How or why I don’t know. But the farmer made what repairs were needed including beating the fender back into shape.

The truck spent its life on the farm primarily as a flat bed in the hay fields around the area bringing bales to the barn with the occasional trip to town of course. As time went on and the farming operation changed and grew. The truck had less and less work to do and spent more and more time in the shed until it was finally retired and didn’t leave the shed again. The last time it was licensed to be on the road was in 1987.

That brings us to today and my trip to Mr Gamms’s farm to bring the truck to my house. He relayed this information to me and now I relay it to you. He apologized for his poor body work. I told him had nothing to apologize for, nowadays they call that patina! He thanked me for purchasing his truck. He told me the man I was bidding against was a scrapper, had I not placed a bid at the last minute this truck would have been on its way to the scrap yard! He was greatful that I wanted to bring it back to life.

We had rain showers most of the day today and the field the truck was parked in was wet and the hill leading out of the field was muddy and rutted. Mr Gamm’s son said I’ll pull you up the hill, I said I know the brakes don’t work, but what about the emergency brake? Mr Gamm said yea it works. I’ll try to drive it up then. He just shook his head.

With that I walked to the truck and cranked it up. With some feathering of the clutch and throttle I started across the field. As I reached the bottom of the muddy embankment I gave the truck more throttle and the engine roared. As we made are way up, the rear end fishtailed as the bald tires pawed at the mud. The truck clawed it’s way to the top of the hill where Mr Gamm was sitting. His son said “ I can’t believe Herbie made it up the hill”! I said what did you call it? He said we have always call him Herbie.
Then I will too.

So this is Herbie the 1961 Ford that was 1 bid away from the scrap yard.

I hope I can do Herbie justice and get him back on the road. I’d love to drive over to Mr Gamm’s farm for a visit!

I hope you didn’t mind the long winded story. That’s the longest rambling I’ve had yet!
To be continued…..

Posted: **Mon Sep 05, 2022 5:27 am**

Just a great ramble. Great story. Nice that it runs and moves. That’s a good start.

Noel

Posted: **Mon Sep 05, 2022 7:36 am**

Not everything can or is worth saving , but when the opportunity to save something of that age from scrap and have the story to go with it .

Posted: **Mon Sep 05, 2022 8:52 am**

First the Case started and runs and now Herby. You really scored at the auction.

Posted: **Mon Sep 05, 2022 9:24 am**

Spike188 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 05, 2022 8:52 am First the Case started and runs and now Herby. You really scored at the auction.

I feel incredibly fortunate! It’s always a crap shoot when buying old equipment especially at auction. The Case and Herbie both need a fair amount of work, but so far they both appear to be great candidates to bring back into service.

Posted: **Mon Sep 05, 2022 9:59 am**

Very nice story and great save from the dump. Even all the lights work! Great!

Posted: **Mon Sep 05, 2022 11:08 pm**

Since I need to go to town for some parts on the 446 before I continue, I decided to spend some time doing a clean up / evaluation on the truck. Firstly I was corrected by Mr Gamm yesterday. This engine is a 272 Y block with a 2 barrel carburetor

So the list stars.
Definitely needs the carburetor rebuild, the Excelerator pump is non existent, and the choke is sticky.
I didn’t bother to pull a spark plug I’m replacing them. I need to at least dress the points if not replace them.

Next item: the hoist.

It does function. However the PTO shaft and pump are covered in 60 years of grease and dirt so it’s hard to see what I have. The hoist controls are very stiff and difficult to move. So at least a clean up and lube and fluid check.

I think the cab cleaned up well

I knew I wanted a flatbed. The gran box can be handy but it will be an obstruction for most of our uses. I had to use big brother for this job.

The panels are almost 13 feet long and are much heavier than I had anticipated. Thankfully the 648 was up to the task.

I like the look of Herbie as a flatbed!

. The drivers side glass is cracked but it might live for a while yet. It needs 6 tires for sure. And of course it needs brakes. I didn’t dig into them today but I’m already considering a full replacement from master cylinder to wheels.

So I’d say mostly typical stuff for an old vehicle so far.

Posted: **Tue Sep 06, 2022 4:49 am**

I like the look of the flat bed too. Looks great. Wouldn’t be a whole lot of difference in hp between the 292 of the 272, I wouldn’t think. The 272 will work just fine.
Thanks for the pictures.

Noel

Posted: **Tue Sep 06, 2022 5:53 am**

Looks great! That's a nice story and that you were able to save it - gotta feel good about that (you and the previous owner). Overall it looks to be in very good shape considering the age and backstory. Looking forward to your progress.

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Posted: **Tue Sep 06, 2022 8:24 am**

Saw this this morning at Canadian tire. 3/4 ton.

Noel

Posted: **Tue Sep 06, 2022 10:43 am**

Looks like a fun project. Good luck replacing those tires. A family member has a 1950 F6 he just got going down the road. All original, sat outside for years and has nice patina. We ended up cutting the centers of the wheels out and it is now running on 22.5 instead of the original 20" 2 piece wheels that nobody will touch.

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Posted: **Tue Sep 06, 2022 2:04 pm**

@Propane57 That truck really look great! Can you head back over there and get the drivers Side glass out of it?

@Jancoe

I have no clue what I’m going to do about tires and wheels yet. At this point they hold air so I’m kicking that can down the road until I get the brakes fixed! I’d love to see a picture of the F6 if you have the opportunity

Posted: **Tue Sep 06, 2022 2:47 pm**

JSinMO wrote: ↑Tue Sep 06, 2022 2:04 pm @Propane57 That truck really look great! Can you head back over there and get the drivers Side glass out of it?

No problem, next time I see it, I’ll snag the window out of it.

Noel

Posted: **Wed Sep 07, 2022 5:35 pm**

Good looking truck you found. I like it when someone decides to save these "vintage" trucks. I had a 47 Dodge dump truck, 50 Dodge 1 ton with factory fender type box with hoist and a 52 Dodge 2 ton with box and hoist. I parted ways with them in the last 3 years. I have left a 50 Dodge tow truck and a 56 Dodge 1 ton with flat deck and hoist.

Posted: **Wed Sep 07, 2022 8:24 pm**

puttputt wrote: ↑Wed Sep 07, 2022 5:35 pm Good looking truck you found. I like it when someone decides to save these "vintage" trucks. I had a 47 Dodge dump truck, 50 Dodge 1 ton with factory fender type box with hoist and a 52 Dodge 2 ton with box and hoist. I parted ways with them in the last 3 years. I have left a 50 Dodge tow truck and a 56 Dodge 1 ton with flat deck and hoist.

You have some pic.s of those ?

Posted: **Wed Sep 07, 2022 8:54 pm**

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Sep 07, 2022 8:24 pm
puttputt wrote: ↑Wed Sep 07, 2022 5:35 pm Good looking truck you found. I like it when someone decides to save these "vintage" trucks. I had a 47 Dodge dump truck, 50 Dodge 1 ton with factory fender type box with hoist and a 52 Dodge 2 ton with box and hoist. I parted ways with them in the last 3 years. I have left a 50 Dodge tow truck and a 56 Dodge 1 ton with flat deck and hoist.
You have some pic.s of those ?

I don't have any on hand except for the 50 1 ton I sold. The fellow restored it over winter the fall that he bought it from me. The truck only had 24,000 original miles and had the fluid drive transmission.

Posted: **Wed Sep 07, 2022 9:07 pm**

Actually found a pic of the 50 tow truck and 56 1 ton. The tow truck belonged to the Chrysler dealership I worked for years ago. It has a crude winch on it that the owner had the guys in the shop fabricate in the 50's. I bought a 54 foot highway trailer for storage that I had to move a mile to my place. It was cheaper for me to buy the tow truck to move it than hire someone. I got the truck for $200.00 and have used it several times for lifting things or moving something. Sure got my monies worth. It also has a pump and set up for a snow blade.
The 56 1 ton is my work truck around the cabin. Sure comes in handy with the flat deck and hoist. I keep thinking about restoring it but so far haven't had the ambition. Mind you it was not my intent to restore them when I acquired them.
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Posted: **Wed Sep 07, 2022 9:11 pm**

@puttputt That truck is beautiful! I’m with Dave if you can get some pictures of your others sometime I’d love to see them. I don’t think my old truck will look that sharp!

Posted: **Wed Sep 07, 2022 9:28 pm**

Wow, such great looking trucks guys, thanks for showing them!

Posted: **Wed Sep 07, 2022 11:24 pm**

I took a look at the brakes on the truck and the master cylinder is junk for sure. I’m still debating on how to proceed. This has a hydro-boost system so it has a slave cylinder / booster under the truck. It may be fine but this is looking like a scenario where you change one thing and the dominos start falling. So far I’m not finding a lot of info out there.

@puttputt Do your Dodge trucks have this type of braking? If so do you have a parts source? It seems some of these items are starting to get hard to find.

Posted: **Thu Sep 08, 2022 12:06 am**

Take a picture of the hydro vac. Curious if it is similar to the newer ones.
I don't have time for the whole story right now, but I've been down with a 78 Chevy trying to get one. The company that rebuilds them can't get cores to rebuild. I got the last one O'Reilly's had in the US, it arrived broken in the box. Carquest, Advanced Auto, Napa, and Weaver couldn't find one.

Hopefully they get the part that was broken shipped out to fix the new one.

Posted: **Thu Sep 08, 2022 7:20 am**

Does your truck have a 2 speed rear axle on it? These trucks used vaccum to actuate it. The brake system is weird on these old trucks. We replaced the master cyl on the '50 f6 and several other parts as needed. Our master had 5 lines to hook up to it. I'll have to ask where my mothers boyfriend bought his parts from. That parts place he used was extremely helpful finding the parts that he needed for it.

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Posted: **Thu Sep 08, 2022 7:48 am**

@puttputt , Those are some great looking trucks .
Thanks for sharing the pics.

Posted: **Thu Sep 08, 2022 8:40 am**

JSinMO wrote: ↑Wed Sep 07, 2022 11:24 pm I took a look at the brakes on the truck and the master cylinder is junk for sure. I’m still debating on how to proceed. This has a hydro-boost system so it has a slave cylinder / booster under the truck. It may be fine but this is looking like a scenario where you change one thing and the dominos start falling. So far I’m not finding a lot of info out there.

@puttputt Do your Dodge trucks have this type of braking? If so do you have a parts source? It seems some of these items are starting to get hard to find.

Yes, the 50 tow truck has a 2 speed axle and hydro-boost brakes. I never really looked up a parts source in regards to the booster as a fellow gave me a 50 Dodge 3 ton truck for parts that I stripped. It had the same booster on it so I have a spare. The brakes currently aren't working on the tow truck but I think cylinder rebuilds will cure that. I will replace the booster if need be. I believe there are outfits that can rebuild these units though. Likely isn't cheap. And that's the problem. I was lucky when the fellow offered me a complete parts truck.

Posted: **Thu Sep 08, 2022 4:33 pm**

@Timj here’s the pictures of my setup.

@Jancoe My truck is just a straight rear end. It not a 2 speed. If you come up with a source for parts That would be awesome. I love the look of your truck. It looks like it’s in pretty good shape.

I did find some information today. I checked O’Reilly and they looked at me like I had 3 heads! I stopped by a couple of repair shops, no luck. My last stop was at Advanced and they said we can have it rebuild no problem!
It’ll takes 10 to 20 days to get it back to you. I asked what if it not repairable? They told me I’m not out anything. So I’m going for it, we’ll see what happens. They gave me a price of $138.00 rebuild and back in my hands.

@puttputt you got really lucky to get a good parts truck!

Posted: **Thu Sep 08, 2022 5:04 pm**

JSinMO, I saw that truck again today, but he was driving the other way, so I couldn’t get the window.

Sounded like it was a 6 cylinder.

Noel

Posted: **Thu Sep 08, 2022 5:08 pm**

$138.00 to have the booster rebuilt sounds very reasonable to me. Would never happen for that price where I am.

Posted: **Thu Sep 08, 2022 6:06 pm**

Propane57 wrote: ↑Thu Sep 08, 2022 5:04 pm JSinMO, I saw that truck again today, but he was driving the other way, so I couldn’t get the window.
Sounded like it was a 6 cylinder.

Noel

Tell him he can keep the engine, we just want the glass!

Posted: **Thu Sep 08, 2022 7:49 pm**

JSinMO wrote: ↑Thu Sep 08, 2022 4:33 pm @Timj here’s the pictures of my setup. 93651C54-DC00-4AB0-A0B6-47F992AF3D6E.jpeg761C94BC-1802-41B5-B6BC-FD6FBCAB0573.jpeg

@Jancoe My truck is just a straight rear end. It not a 2 speed. If you come up with a source for parts That would be awesome. I love the look of your truck. It looks like it’s in pretty good shape.

I did find some information today. I checked O’Reilly and they looked at me like I had 3 heads! I stopped by a couple of repair shops, no luck. My last stop was at Advanced and they said we can have it rebuild no problem!
It’ll takes 10 to 20 days to get it back to you. I asked what if it not repairable? They told me I’m not out anything. So I’m going for it, we’ll see what happens. They gave me a price of $138.00 rebuild and back in my hands.

@puttputt you got really lucky to get a good parts truck!

Yep, pretty much the same thing, mine just has the double chambers for heavier gvw. Cardone is the company that rebuilds them. Mine was just over $200 with the core return.

Posted: **Tue Sep 13, 2022 7:55 pm**

Jancoe wrote: ↑Tue Sep 06, 2022 10:43 am Looks like a fun project. Good luck replacing those tires. A family member has a 1950 F6 he just got going down the road. All original, sat outside for years and has nice patina. We ended up cutting the centers of the wheels out and it is now running on 22.5 instead of the original 20" 2 piece wheels that nobody will touch.

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You are spot on. I have search and searched for tires and rims. So far no go. Even if I could find the tires the rims on the truck are the old “widow maker” split rims. Nobody will touch them and I can’t blame them.

I must admit I’m pretty down after hitting nothing but dead ends so far.

I have a good welder that would weld up new rims on my centers if I end up going that route. Can you tell what rims you used on your F6?

I really appreciate your information. Thanks!

Posted: **Tue Sep 13, 2022 8:22 pm**

Any type of tractor rims fit maybe. Just guessing.

Noel

Posted: **Tue Sep 13, 2022 9:06 pm**

Good thought Noel. Hadn’t thought of that. At the very least it’s another avenue to explore. Thank you.

Posted: **Wed Sep 14, 2022 7:00 am**

https://www.uswheel.com/wheels/6664/truck/
Have you tried companies like this ?

Posted: **Wed Sep 14, 2022 8:32 am**

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Sep 14, 2022 7:00 am https://www.uswheel.com/wheels/6664/truck/
Have you tried companies like this ?

The ones I’ve checked so far either don’t make the size I need or it’s cost prohibitive for me. There are still options. I haven’t hit the salvage yards yet and there are some heavy truck repair shops in my area I need to check with. I still have the option of making what I need also. It’s just a little disheartening to keep hearing “sorry those are obsolete”. But I guess we’re all kind of into taking things that are deemed obsolete and keeping them alive.

Posted: **Wed Sep 14, 2022 10:53 am**

If you run into any additional oddball brake issues, I used White Post Restorations to rebuild/sleeve my obscure wheel cylinders on the '48 Diamond T. All done in brass, so I don't have to worry about that again... I recall they also did the hydro boost systems, but I didn't need that at the time. (probably should have done it just because)

I'm still very slowly trying to get the '65 F750 to the point I could get it on the road. Air brakes, so different problems... Tires, however, are the same kinda headache. No problem finding rubber, but the cost is crazy. The wheels are lock ring, so not the same issue as widow makers. Hoping I can just come up with some 22.5's and be done with it... At least I have Dayton's, so it should be relatively simple once I get some cash set aside for it.

Posted: **Wed Sep 14, 2022 10:57 am**

Jeff, I have a little story that might help, or not. When I got the Massey Harris 33 it was in pretty rough shape. Some things I found after long searches, at a more reasonable price. But the exhaust manifold was not to be found anywhere, at any price. This model, the 33, was nowhere as popular as the 44 or the 55, for which there are plenty of aftermarket parts, including the exhaust manifold. I had joined the Facebook group named Massey Harris Tractor Collectors previously, and noticed that people are helping each other there. So I posted that I'm looking for a manifold. There were many replies like "go to xyz.com" but I have already exhausted all new and old parts I could find on the net. But two people replied that they may have an old one in the barn, they'll look. The third person that said he has one was in Quebec, and it was a refreshed manifold, in amazing shape. Not only, but the price was extremely decent, and low shipping.

My point is that you may find someone that has some parts for your machine, in a similar group on facebook. I do not like facebook, but the reality is that it is another place where people get together and you never know.

As you probably realized already, what you're doing requires patience. I was able to find a manifold many months after I first started. Hope you can find what you need faster!

Posted: **Wed Sep 14, 2022 11:08 am**

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Sep 14, 2022 10:57 am As you probably realized already, what you're doing requires patience. I was able to find a manifold many months after I first started. Hope you can find what you need faster!

I'll second the patience...

Before I went to White Post, I spent a year or more trying to track down new wheel cylinders... Found that International also used those cylinders on a few models pre WWII. That lead me to finding those same wheel cylinders were used on International made half tracks. All those made their way to Israel eventually apparently... So after a lot of digging, I found the PN assigned to the half track, and then found a NOS packed, and preserved back in the 40's for the US, Israeli military surplus wheel cylinder on Ebay.

That let me kick the brake project down the road a bit, but then the other side went, and I didn't have as much luck with the other side...

Posted: **Wed Sep 14, 2022 7:56 pm**

@Eugen. I kinda tuned this into a “I can’t see the forest because of all these tress” situation! I know I’m in the beginning stages of this project but sometimes patients is a virtue that flat out escapes me. I have had long duration projects as I’m sure most of us have. I think my frustration on this one comes from seeing how close this truck could be to running down the road again but yet so far! So all that to say yes your story helps. I needed some perspective, and maybe a reminder that all projects don’t just fall into place! Thank you, I appreciate it.

Posted: **Wed Sep 14, 2022 8:15 pm**

Toolslinger wrote: ↑Wed Sep 14, 2022 10:53 am If you run into any additional oddball brake issues, I used White Post Restorations to rebuild/sleeve my obscure wheel cylinders on the '48 Diamond T. All done in brass, so I don't have to worry about that again... I recall they also did the hydro boost systems, but I didn't need that at the time. (probably should have done it just because)

I'm still very slowly trying to get the '65 F750 to the point I could get it on the road. Air brakes, so different problems... Tires, however, are the same kinda headache. No problem finding rubber, but the cost is crazy. The wheels are lock ring, so not the same issue as widow makers. Hoping I can just come up with some 22.5's and be done with it... At least I have Dayton's, so it should be relatively simple once I get some cash set aside for it.

Thank you, I’ll keep White Post in mind. I talked to a fellow yesterday about rims and brake parts. I believe he’s in Connecticut. So I think at this point I have at least sourced everything thing I should need for the brake system. He specializes in the old Fords so if you still need thing for your F750 maybe he could help. Here’s a link to his website, I called his shop number. http://www.chuckstrucksllc.com/startframe.htm

I would also like to run the 22.5 tires. I can’t commit to that until I’m sure of what rims I’m going with, but yes the price is a bit painful! I don’t plan on putting a ton of miles on the truck so I’m hoping the price is worth it to have tires that will last quite awhile.

Posted: **Wed Sep 14, 2022 11:25 pm**

I think I would plug away at what you can come up with for wheels first. If you can get into a common sized wheel, then you may be able to find good used take offs for tires.
I've been able to get some good take offs from a couple of tire outfits. My drill rigs don't get many miles on them, tires fail from age with full tread so, good take offs has been good for me.

Posted: **Thu Sep 15, 2022 7:15 am**

Take offs are likely a good choice. The Diamond T is on the 3rd set of new tires since we owned it. Probably the 4th since it was new. Gotta be at least 20 years since we did them last time, and they're starting to crack. Tread is perfect. I think we've put 25, or 30k on those 3 sets of tires. Unfortunately, those are 10.00-20's as well. Those I would probably pony up the cash for the same tires rather than swapping rims, and for sure those would be the last set that I would need.

The Ford, I don't really care what it's running as long as they hold, and can drive. They could be bald, as I'll probably just run chains on the rears when I'm moving around the farm. (my folks bought brand new chains for the Diamond T when they got it, and they've never been used, so might as well get some use out of them) That rig isn't going down the road except to a truck show at some point, and that's only 20 miles. Nobody will be looking at the truck, it'll be there for the crane.

It would have been nice if my interior was as nice as yours though. Battle scars on the exterior are fine, but the interior has been attacked by mice, mud wasps, and water from holes in the roof from where they had beacon lights I guess. Tape and silicone has stopped the water for now. My driver door glass is shattered as well. Don't know why it's still holding, but I close that door VERY gently. Entire electrical system is a train wreck as well. Not looking forward to that project.

Posted: **Thu Sep 15, 2022 12:06 pm**

Don't waste your time looking for wheels. You are not going to find them. I spent countless hours searching. We purchased 22.5 wheel blanks. I think we did 7 wide on front and 8 wide on rear. Cut the centers of original wheels out and they will be snug right into place on the 22.5.. we went with 235/85r22.5 with the f6. Tack weld it and spin it on a front hub of the car to make sure it's straight and weld them up. We did ours and it drives great down through road. My phone crashed a few weeks ago so I've lost all my pictures of the process.the 22.5 are the way to go.

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Posted: **Thu Sep 15, 2022 12:26 pm**

Here's a few photos I found when we started the process.

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Posted: **Thu Sep 15, 2022 9:53 pm**

Thanks @Jancoe I’m glad you had those pictures

Posted: **Fri Sep 16, 2022 12:21 pm**

I'm in the same boat regarding my tow truck. It is badly in need of all 4 tires. Sure doesn't warrant new tires.

Posted: **Sat Sep 17, 2022 1:38 pm**

I should clarify a little as to what we did to the wheels. We essentially left a band of metal that's riveted to the center of the wheel. The bead seal lip was cut off up close to the center. The same for the back side. Cut off the inner half of 2 piece flange. One of those pics we ground off the rivets attempting to remove the outside ring on the wheel center. We left the rivets alone and created a "metal band" and plug welded those and is a spare now. This band that was left made the wheel center slip perfectly tight into the wheel blank. Set it to our desired offset and kept tacking it and spinning it on the front hub. A little jig wat made to hold true. It worked good. Find some used rv motorhome 22.5" tires. When I eventually get back over to their place I can get you finished photos. This 5 on 8" lug pattern is difficult to find.

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Posted: **Sat Sep 17, 2022 11:06 pm**

Jancoe wrote: ↑Sat Sep 17, 2022 1:38 pm I should clarify a little as to what we did to the wheels. We essentially left a band of metal that's riveted to the center of the wheel. The bead seal lip was cut off up close to the center. The same for the back side. Cut off the inner half of 2 piece flange. One of those pics we ground off the rivets attempting to remove the outside ring on the wheel center. We left the rivets alone and created a "metal band" and plug welded those and is a spare now. This band that was left made the wheel center slip perfectly tight into the wheel blank. Set it to our desired offset and kept tacking it and spinning it on the front hub. A little jig wat made to hold true. It worked good. Find some used rv motorhome 22.5" tires. When I eventually get back over to their place I can get you finished photos. This 5 on 8" lug pattern is difficult to find.

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Thank you Jancoe. I’ve got feelers out all over the place to see if I can come up with rims. I have several places to call next week too. I don’t hold much hope, but you never know. I appreciate the knowledge on this. I’ll be referring to it if and when I make a set.

Posted: **Fri Sep 30, 2022 10:22 pm**

I’m slowly but surely collecting pieces and parts to get back on the road. A lot came in today. I thought we would do an unboxing and see what we got.

The brake booster finally came in. It’s rebuilt and ready to go back on the truck! The price was as quoted, $137.99.

New master cylinder arrived as well. So now I’m down to lines and hoses. Then I’ll make a decision on the wheel cylinders.

The 3/4 drive extension and Budd socket with 1 1/2 hex for the outer lug nuts and 13/16 square for the inner lug arrive from Amazon this after noon.

Along with something on the end in the picture that I’ve been wanting to add to shop for awhile. @Eugen mentioned awhile back that he picked up a plasma cutter I’ve really been thinking it would be quite handy to have one around here too. This one was on sale so I grabbed it! I need to wire in a 220 outlet but it will also run on house current so I tried it, looks like it will be a nice addition!

I also picked up spark plugs, plug wires, and filters. I ordered and carburetor kit that should be in next week.
So we’re getting close to being ready to dive in and get this project going!

Except for the wheels, I’ve said before that @Jancoe was right about not finding rims anywhere. But I’ve kept on trying anyway in the hopes I would stumble onto some. I’ve made contact with individuals and companies all over North America, but just as he said would happen I’ve come up empty. I still have a couple of calls out there I’m waiting to here back on but I’m not expecting good news. So I’ve also been developing my plan B. I’m going to try taking a different approach. I’ve spoke with mechanics, tire and wheel guys, and a custom car builder. They all agree that if I can find modern rims with the right setback they can be redrilled for my bolt pattern. The customer car guy gave me a lead for a retired machinist and old school hot rodder. I met with him today and asked his opinion. He says it will work fine and he’s willing to help me. So now the search will be expanded to look for modern rims to fit a 9R22.5 tire with the right setback that we can redrill to look like this.

.

I’ll end this update / truck ramble here for now. It was quite an exciting day for me with all this arriving at once!

Too be continued….

Posted: **Sat Oct 01, 2022 3:35 pm**

That is great progress I would say. One step at a time you get that truck in great shape!

I hope you find that cutter decent. I still haven't tried it on 220V. Looking forward to you trying it!

Posted: **Tue Oct 04, 2022 9:20 pm**

I’ve had the lug nuts soaking in Deep Creep for three weeks. I though I’d try to see if they would come loose tonight. Nope, they are STUCK.

.
Now I get to see if Craftsman still warranties there tools. A 1/2 inch bar is all I had . I was hoping they would come loose with out getting rough with them. I may have to step up to a 3/4 breaker bar. I didn’t want to use heat because I was worried about taking the temper out of the lug nuts. It’s looking like I will have too.

Do you guys have any tricks to loosen stuck rusty nuts and bolts?

Posted: **Tue Oct 04, 2022 10:13 pm**

Jeff, heat it up with a plumber propane torch or with your regular torch but don't let it go red at all, you just want to get it hot like muffins out of the oven hot. That way tempering doesn't change. You only need the metal to expand a tiny bit. It's how I got that backhoe cylinder open, and it was torqued at1000 ft-lb.

If you have an impact gun some hammering also helps. Otherwise some careful knocking with a hammer would also help.

But just a little heat might be enough. Then the 3/4 breaker bar (with cheater pipe maybe) will open it, I'm 100% sure.

Posted: **Wed Oct 05, 2022 12:25 pm**

I do believe torque spec was 450-500 ft lbs on the lug nuts but I can't remember for sure. I do recall having left hand threads on drivers and right hand on pass side. Although I think that was for the dual rear wheels with the 2 piece lug nuts. I can't remember. Good luck getting them off. We had trouble servicing the stock brakes. There is a process to follow to ensure proper brake shoe contact with the drums. Make sure to get your shoes in spec.

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Posted: **Wed Oct 05, 2022 8:38 pm**

Thanks guys! Just in case anybody has Craftsman tools Lowes does honor the lifetime warranty. I swapped out for a new breaker bar today. I also swung by Hobo Fright and grabbed a 3/4 drive breaker bar. So when I get time to work on the truck again I will try some heat, maybe an impact gun. I also have an air hammer with a flat body dolly attachment I might try that too.

@Jancoethe drivers side front studs are clearly marked with an L. I assume the rear drivers side duals are left hand threads as well. I know the passenger side front is a right hand thread I got for out of five of them loose. That 450 to 500 ft lbs sounds right.

Posted: **Thu Oct 06, 2022 12:10 pm**

The rear wheels on the left hand side will be left hand threads as well. But, maybe somebody changed them to right hand thread at some point. I know when I worked at the Chrysler dealership back in the day, they did away with the left hand threaded studs and you could only get right hand as a replacement. Which made it fun if a person didn't replace the whole set when one was damaged. It could be that it was the same way at Ford, in that you had to buy right hand replacement studs. If they aren't marked with an L like the front, it makes one wonder. I know on my Dodge they are the original studs and the rear are marked with an L as well as the front.

Posted: **Sat Oct 08, 2022 8:02 pm**

I decided to give it a go this afternoon and see if these lug nuts would budge. I pulled out the torch set, electric impact, air impact, and the 3/4 breaker and a pipe.

I heated 2 lug nuts on the passenger side and still no luck.

so I moved to the drivers side and just gave it a go with the breaker bar and pipe. I can confirm all on the drivers side are left hand threads because that all came loose!

I went back to the passenger side and got three of them loose. The two that are left I can’t budge. I guess for now I’ll go back to soaking them and see what happens.
The next problem will be getting the inner lugs loose, they look rusty! Also the socket I ordered was supposed to handle the outer hex lug and inner square lug but it’s too deep for my lugs so I’ll have to come up with some thing else.

The problem with working with bigger stuff is you have to have bigger heavier tools. Have I mentioned lately having a loader is mighty handy?!

Now that I have one of the duals off I can bring it in and get some measurements and make a pattern for the lug holes and center hole, then I think I can start searching for for rims I can make work.

So as it stands today I have 3 of 6 wheels loose. Im gonna call it a partial victory.

Posted: **Sat Oct 08, 2022 11:26 pm**

That's good progress in my books, Jeff. Like you, I had to get bigger tools to work on the backhoe. I'm curious about those two lug nuts that wouldn't budge. Did you decide to not force the breaker bar, was it bending?

Posted: **Sun Oct 09, 2022 12:18 am**

Eugen wrote: ↑Sat Oct 08, 2022 11:26 pm That's good progress in my books, Jeff. Like you, I had to get bigger tools to work on the backhoe. I'm curious about those two lug nuts that wouldn't budge. Did you decide to not force the breaker bar, was it bending?

I gave it all the force I could muster. I could feel the bar starting to flex with no movement of the nuts. It was the end of the day so I decided to stop there. I thought about putting the backhoe on it and giving it the weight of the 648, but I sure don’t want to break a stud and I’d rather not break the bar so I’m not sure what’s next at this point.

Posted: **Sun Oct 09, 2022 6:57 am**

@JSinMO
Have you tried ? hitting the face of the nut ? Take a piece of pipe that will fit over the nut tightly enough to hold it self in place . ( you may need to hold it in place with a clamp or something . This pipe will hold and centre the next pipe/bar with a re-leaf hole in the end/old socket . So as not to damage the thread in the nut or on the stud . This will allow you to swing a sledge and strike it hard . The shock will help fracture the hold of rust loosen the grip of the taper on the nut . If your aim is like mine , place wood block in front of the other stud to protect them .

Posted: **Sun Oct 09, 2022 7:51 am**

Every time I see/read about people struggling with old, stuck studs, I'm glad I have Dayton hubs/rims. Lots lower torque involved... They have their own headaches, but not usually the studs.

And now I'm sure I've cursed myself on the day I have to pull the F 750's wheels off.

Posted: **Sun Oct 09, 2022 9:45 am**

I have a book that I purchased by a man from Quebec. I can't remember his name at the moment, but the book was about using heat to expand and shrink metal. The application for removing a nut was as follows. Heat the nut in one area only not the whole nut. Heating the whole nut would add heat to the bolt also. He referred to the heating as giving it a hot shot, which was making it red hot. Heating in only one area expands the nut. You have to act quickly so I would suggest using an oxy acetylene torch heating to red hot then quickly use your impact to remove the nut. I also have found that sometimes the impact does not work, and I use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe on the handle.
I hope this helps you in your application.

Keep the Peace

Harry

Posted: **Sun Oct 09, 2022 11:18 am**

Great point @Harry , about heating the nut only on the outside, so that the nut expands around the stud.

@JSinMO , here's another couple of tricks I used. One, go with the impact gun forward and backwards, several times.

The other one is to touch weld some pieces of metal on your socket, all around it. There are sockets with a very thick wall to make the momentum of the impact larger. The heavier the socket becomes the bigger the impact. This is what I used to get the crankshaft bolt undone on the truck.

I think the main idea with rust frozen nuts is to apply great force only AFTER the nut was shaken a bit from the stud, otherwise the stud just snaps.

Posted: **Sun Oct 09, 2022 4:21 pm**

Jeff, look up weighted socket. Lisle Harmonic Balancer Socket is such a thing.

Posted: **Sun Oct 09, 2022 5:10 pm**

I wanted to thank all of you for your knowledge and comments, and tell you how much I appreciate them!

I decided to try the percussive maintenance path first. I used sockets and a 3 lbs hammer to strike the nut and then the rim. Next I got the air hammer out and went around the lugs.

Success! They came loose. I took some measurements and made a couple of templates to take with me when I start looking for rims.

So now I have the 10 inner lugs to fight with and then I can move on. I have to wait till I come up with a square 13/16” socket then we’ll see how they come out. Thanks again guys!

Posted: **Fri Oct 21, 2022 9:56 pm**

I started making the hard lines for Herbie this evening. Been quite some time since I made brake lines.

Sure enough I rightly and properly kinked this one beyond use

Oh well I’ll save the fittings and try again. I have the brake hoses ordered so hopefully I’ll be mounting things soon and seeing if we have brakes!

I’ve found 2 old salvage yards close to me looks like they have stuff stuff from the 1930s to at least the 1980s. I missed a set of rims that would have bolted right on the truck by 3 days at the first one!

He does have a set of rims for 19.5 tires that I could modify fairly easily but that’s a much shorter tire I’m afraid it would affect my top speed on a truck that already will be slow. There’s a lot of cool stuff there and he said I could come and dig around anytime. I’m headed to the 2nd one first thing in the morning it looks promising. Keep your fingers crossed for me! I’m hoping I’ll be coming home with some workable rims!

Posted: **Sat Oct 22, 2022 12:07 am**

Fingers crossed Jeff, hope you find something useful there. I'm sure you'll find what you need eventually.

I never flared hard lines but I'm sure if I did I'd screw some of them.

Posted: **Sat Oct 22, 2022 6:14 am**

Eugen wrote: ↑Sat Oct 22, 2022 12:07 am Fingers crossed Jeff, hope you find something useful there. I'm sure you'll find what you need eventually.

I never flared hard lines but I'm sure if I did I'd screw some of them.

It does take practice and the right tools for bending makes all the difference in the world .

Posted: **Sat Oct 22, 2022 10:14 pm**

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sat Oct 22, 2022 6:14 am
Eugen wrote: ↑Sat Oct 22, 2022 12:07 am Fingers crossed Jeff, hope you find something useful there. I'm sure you'll find what you need eventually.

I never flared hard lines but I'm sure if I did I'd screw some of them.
It does take practice and the right tools for bending makes all the difference in the world .

I really does take practice. I had forgotten the “feel” of it when making bends. I’m starting to come back around. Like a lot of things good flairs are made in the prep. I took a small piece and practiced. Made a few ugly ones before I got back in the swing!

No rims today but I did come away with some more ideas. And I may go after those 19.5’s I’d be about 3” shorter than the current tires not sure how much difference that would really make.

Posted: **Sat Oct 22, 2022 11:12 pm**

I can't think of any serious downside with the shorter rims. Perhaps there's a tire with taller wall for the shorter rims?

Posted: **Sun Oct 23, 2022 6:04 am**

@JSinMO measure the circumference of the old tire and the 19.5 " tire . Divide one into the other and you have a factor to multiply mph with to find what it will be with a shorter tire .

Posted: **Sun Oct 23, 2022 8:18 pm**

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sun Oct 23, 2022 6:04 am @JSinMO measure the circumference of the old tire and the 19.5 " tire . Divide one into the other and you have a factor to multiply mph with to find what it will be with a shorter tire .

Thank you Dave. I took some measurements but I’m not sure about the 19.5 tire. I looked at some charts online. It looks like I will lose 5 to 8 MPH at highway speed. Not too worried about that on the back roads. I’ll just have to stay in the slow lane on the occasions I have to get on the 4 lane highway.

I continued working on the brakes today looking at the numbers I think I will have over 30 feed of hard line!
I thought I should make sure the check valve was working so I hooked my little vacuum pump up and it wouldn’t hold a vacuum. I took the valve apart and cleaned it up. On a side note this is another reason I like working on old stuff, you can fix a lot of components instead of just replacing them.

I reassembled and bench tested and it works fine. Hook everything back up and no vacuum! Upon further inspection I see the problem

the hard line has a hole rubbed in it! This thing hasn’t had power breaks in a long time. I’m gonna pitch it and run a hose to the booster.

Theres todays old truck ramble!

Posted: **Mon Oct 24, 2022 6:12 am**

@JSinMO The ability to rebuild or repair is so much more satisfying than throughing parts at it .

Posted: **Mon Oct 24, 2022 9:29 am**

Good work Jeff! Will you use some type of hose that's resistant to collapse under vacuum instead of the steel line?

Posted: **Mon Oct 24, 2022 12:52 pm**

Its great when you just disassemble a part, clean it up, maybe replace a bushing or small piece if needed and put it back together and it works.
As for those wheels hopefully your on track finding some replacements. There was a write up somewhere on the net that had listed all vehicles with that bolt pattern. I can't find it now.
The wheel blanks we used were from www.heywheel.com. If I was close to you I'd have helped you get those wheels welded up.
I found out the source of parts we used was from http://www.chuckstrucksllc.com/. These guys were great.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Posted: **Mon Oct 24, 2022 9:17 pm**

Eugen wrote: ↑Mon Oct 24, 2022 9:29 am Good work Jeff! Will you use some type of hose that's resistant to collapse under vacuum instead of the steel line?

I don’t have the numbers in front of me, but I don’t think it’s pulling that much vacuum so I’m going with the easiest first. Just standard 1/2” ID vacuum hose and we’ll see what happens.

@Jancoe i got my brake hoses from chucks trucks! Your right he is great to work with. I may be getting some other things from him as well.
I appreciate that you would help if we were closer. Reading what you wrote and looking at your pictures I see how it should go. My welding ability is not good enough at this point to pull it off. I may still go that route and hire the welding out. I’ll come up with a solution, just not quite there yet!

Posted: **Mon Oct 24, 2022 11:19 pm**

Thinking back 40 years ago and with a bit foggy memory, on Chevy 60 series trucks we used a short piece of hose to connect the vacuum lines when modifying trucks. If the F500 solid line integrity is good enough , we would have cut out the bad section, supported the steal line ends near the cut sections, and jumped the gap with a length of vacuum hose. We usually robbed the hose off of a Surge milker.

We had a 61 235 Chevy set up a with a petcock tapped into the intake manifold and 30 feet of milker hose run to the stalls. When the electrical power was out the pick was pulled up to the barn and attached to barn vacuum system. 2 pail milkers could be ran off of the engine manifold vacuum if the milker was turned on s.l.o.w.l.y. The 5 gallon milker pail vacuum had to draw down. When the engine rpm levelled out the suction cups could be gently moved to the cows' teets while avoiding opening the suction line to the teet cups. Do it wrong, the pickup dies, and the milker falls off the other cow. If your lucky the milker on the second cow didn't open and cause you to cry over spilt milk. If the milker dumped the cats would love you and dad would go :wife:

.

Posted: **Tue Oct 25, 2022 4:56 am**

Vacuum runs all over the place on the '48 Diamond T. Shifts the rear, shifts the speedometer, brake booster, wipers, air horn pump etc... Anyplace I can get away from hose, and put in a hard line, I'd put in a hard line. Every little bit of flex in a hose is going to add to any delay or weakness in vacuum.

I kinda prefer the air system on the F750 over the vacuum on the T. Not that I've sorted out that mess yet, but at least I can hear those leaks a lot easier...

Posted: **Tue Oct 25, 2022 7:41 am**

Spike188 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 24, 2022 11:19 pm Thinking back 40 years ago and with a bit foggy memory, on Chevy 60 series trucks we used a short piece of hose to connect the vacuum lines when modifying trucks. If the F500 solid line integrity is good enough , we would have cut out the bad section, supported the steal line ends near the cut sections, and jumped the gap with a length of vacuum hose. We usually robbed the hose off of a Surge milker. image.png We had a 61 235 Chevy set up a with a petcock tapped into the intake manifold and 30 feet of milker hose run to the stalls. When the electrical power was out the pick was pulled up to the barn and attached to barn vacuum system. 2 pail milkers could be ran off of the engine manifold vacuum if the milker was turned on s.l.o.w.l.y. The 5 gallon milker pail vacuum had to draw down. When the engine rpm levelled out the suction cups could be gently moved to the cows' teets while avoiding opening the suction line to the teet cups. Do it wrong, the pickup dies, and the milker falls off the other cow. If your lucky the milker on the second cow didn't open and cause you to cry over spilt milk. If the milker dumped the cats would love you and dad would go .

I remember my father and grandfather doing this with my Dad's old Ford pickup when the power was out.

Posted: **Tue Oct 25, 2022 8:13 pm**

Spike188 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 24, 2022 11:19 pm Thinking back 40 years ago and with a bit foggy memory, on Chevy 60 series trucks we used a short piece of hose to connect the vacuum lines when modifying trucks. If the F500 solid line integrity is good enough , we would have cut out the bad section, supported the steal line ends near the cut sections, and jumped the gap with a length of vacuum hose. We usually robbed the hose off of a Surge milker. image.png We had a 61 235 Chevy set up a with a petcock tapped into the intake manifold and 30 feet of milker hose run to the stalls. When the electrical power was out the pick was pulled up to the barn and attached to barn vacuum system. 2 pail milkers could be ran off of the engine manifold vacuum if the milker was turned on s.l.o.w.l.y. The 5 gallon milker pail vacuum had to draw down. When the engine rpm levelled out the suction cups could be gently moved to the cows' teets while avoiding opening the suction line to the teet cups. Do it wrong, the pickup dies, and the milker falls off the other cow. If your lucky the milker on the second cow didn't open and cause you to cry over spilt milk. If the milker dumped the cats would love you and dad would go .

Great story spike! That’s a great example of ingenuity at work! And it reminds me of being at home as a kid, i can think of only a few things that broke , stopped working, etc that my dad couldn’t find a way to get it going to get the job done.
In the F500’s case the hard line is pretty bad. I had the idea to cut out the bad section but I need to poke around on it and see how solid the rest of it is.

@Toolslinger I think the brake booster is the only thing that needs vacuum on this truck, luckily. I don’t blame you for running hard line, I sure wouldn’t want to keep chasing all that hose!

Posted: **Sat Oct 29, 2022 9:47 pm**

We have been having pretty good weather so I figured I’d keep doing what I can on the truck since it’s outside, and continue on the 446 in the shop once it gets cold.

I’ve got all the lug nuts loose and the wheels ready to come off.
The brake hoses came in and are installed alone with 33 feet of brake like. I still need 4 or 5 feet of line to make it to the passenger rear wheel, then it will be time to start bleeding the system and looking for leaks and/or bad wheel cylinders.

I took @Spike188 advice and checked over the vacuum hard line to the booster. Other than the rub hole it’s pretty solid. So I just cut out the bad spot and placed a hose in the line. Installed it on the truck and tested it and now I’m holding vacuum from the check valve down to the booster!

You guys know how it is when you get into a project. It can take you down roads you didn’t expect, this one is no exception. I was working in a small town about 40 minutes away last week and guess what I drove past sitting on an empty lot? An early 1970’s Winnebago Chieftain! And guess what was on it? 8.00x19.5 rims with my bolt pattern! Lucky I had some time to spare so I started knocking on doors till I found the owner. Long story short I’m now the semi-proud owner of a worn out RV!

The gentleman sold me the rims but I have to take the RV with me! I paid $500 for 7 rims that can bolt right on Herbie. So $71.42 a rim I don’t think I could beat that price building rims for it. The left and right lugs nuts are the same so I’ll have an extra set, 2 headlights that I think will fit, as well as, 2 brake boosters that will go on the shelf as spares! The rest of the Winnebago is going for scrap. I haven’t looked at the engine but I think these came with Chrysler V8’s unfortunately it went through a flood so its probably junk. Here’s one of the 19.5’s setting next to the 8.25x20 on the truck.

I found a set of tires that have a 34”diameter, so if I did the calculations right depending on vehicle speed I should only loose 3 to 5 MPH with the smaller tire, I’m quite happy with that!

So there’s todays truck update / ramble.
Quite an exciting week, with some progress!
Thank you guys for following Herbie’s story!

Posted: **Sat Oct 29, 2022 11:34 pm**

awe, you gotta fix the camper.

. tell

you are going to take up camping.

you may need a place to live.

Posted: **Sat Oct 29, 2022 11:44 pm**

He he, I told you it may take time but look, you found rims and more! I predict that camper will have more parts to donate! Nice find!

Posted: **Sun Oct 30, 2022 12:30 am**

Timj wrote: ↑Sat Oct 29, 2022 11:34 pm awe, you gotta fix the camper. . tell you are going to take up camping. you may need a place to live.

unfortunately this one is well past rehabilitation, but your right, if I keep showing up with stuff I probably will need a place to sleep!

I actually thought about selling the body to some one that wanted to park it and use it at deer camp until I took a look inside.

Im just going for the parts and staying away from the mold!

Posted: **Sun Oct 30, 2022 12:40 am**

Eugen wrote: ↑Sat Oct 29, 2022 11:44 pm He he, I told you it may take time but look, you found rims and more! I predict that camper will have more parts to donate! Nice find!

You were right, And I’m glad you were!

I wish I was more patient, but then again it may be the lack of that virtue that helps me push projects forward! I don’t know.
I’m kind of excited the get the body off to see if there is any rusty gold underneath that could be useful to me!

Posted: **Sun Oct 30, 2022 6:21 am**

Timj wrote: ↑Sat Oct 29, 2022 11:34 pm awe, you gotta fix the camper. . tell you are going to take up camping. you may need a place to live.

Posted: **Sun Oct 30, 2022 5:58 pm**

JSinMO wrote: ↑Sun Oct 30, 2022 12:40 am
You were right, And I’m glad you were!
I wish I was more patient, but then again it may be the lack of that virtue that helps me push projects forward! I don’t know.
I’m kind of excited the get the body off to see if there is any rusty gold underneath that could be useful to me!

I don't know Jeff, patience is not something that I got naturally, but I was sure you would eventually find the parts. It’s good progress!

Posted: **Sat Nov 12, 2022 6:41 pm**

Well disassembly started on the old RV today. 30F with snow flurries motivated me to get going before winter sets in! I think this is a Dodge 440, it went under water and I’d be shocked if it wasn’t locked up, what a shame.

.

The wheels on the bus no longer go round and round!
For now the go in the back of the truck and back to the shop to get the old tires off, prepped, painted, and eventually new tires on.

I also got headlights, blinkers, a full set of R and L lug nuts, and a few other things. Not a bad haul.

1 down, 6 to go!

I must be getting older, this little away mission kicked my butt! I quit for the day!

Posted: **Sat Nov 12, 2022 7:09 pm**

Lots of goodies you can use Jeff. Taking a risk paid off. But yeah, working in the cold and especially tire irons is not easy going. More rewarding to rest at night!

Posted: **Sun Nov 27, 2022 4:04 pm**

Haven’t made much progress on Herbie the truck lately. Believe it or not the the dust covers on the front hubs are stuck! They screw in and they won’t budge. Getting the hubs off it the next step I don’t want to pressurize the brake system until I get the bearings greased or replaced. So the covers are soaking and the search is on for a reasonably priced 2 3/8 socket to fit them. I did get all the old tires off the 19.5 rims I’ll be using for the truck.
It’s a shame I couldn’t use them as they have great tread yet, but they are so dry rotted they’re useless.
How long has it been since you could get Sears branded tires?!

I hate having old tires laying around, we were trying to think of something useful to do with them before I take them to the dump. My wife suggested we get goats and let them climb on the tires!

Her idea was certainly creative, but does anybody have a better use for old tires?

Posted: **Sun Nov 27, 2022 4:29 pm**

@JSinMO How many large trees do you have . There are a lot of swings there . Or you could just Re-tire .

Said The Re-tread

Posted: **Sun Nov 27, 2022 4:56 pm**

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sun Nov 27, 2022 4:29 pm @JSinMO How many large trees do you have . There are a lot of swings there . Or you could just Re-tire . Said The Re-tread

forget the swings, I like the Re-tire idea!

Posted: **Sun Nov 27, 2022 8:31 pm**

JSinMO wrote: ↑Sun Nov 27, 2022 4:04 pm So the covers are soaking and the search is on for a reasonably priced 2 3/8 socket to fit them.

When you work on big stuff you suddenly realize there's a whole universe out there of big tools. This is how I felt when I started working on the big backhoe. Then I found a whole bunch of big sockets on clearance at a local store, for prices like 1.99 and up to 3.99. Except the 1-7/8 which I really needed! Got that at regular price.

I hate having old tires laying around, we were trying to think of something useful to do with them before I take them to the dump. My wife suggested we get goats and let them climb on the tires!

I like how your wife thinks Jeff! Get goats!

Posted: **Sun Nov 27, 2022 9:08 pm**

Line your yard with them half buried vertical and paint white.

Present them to your spouse as a Christmas present.

Posted: **Sun Nov 27, 2022 11:22 pm**

Eugen wrote: ↑Sun Nov 27, 2022 8:31 pm
JSinMO wrote: ↑Sun Nov 27, 2022 4:04 pm So the covers are soaking and the search is on for a reasonably priced 2 3/8 socket to fit them.
When you work on big stuff you suddenly realize there's a whole universe out there of big tools. This is how I felt when I started working on the big backhoe. Then I found a whole bunch of big sockets on clearance at a local store, for prices like 1.99 and up to 3.99. Except the 1-7/8 which I really needed! Got that at regular price.

I hate having old tires laying around, we were trying to think of something useful to do with them before I take them to the dump. My wife suggested we get goats and let them climb on the tires!
I like how your wife thinks Jeff! Get goats!

I know what you mean about a universe of big tools out there. I knew they existed but I don’t want to have to buy them!

My wife has always wanted goats. I can probably think of a dozen reasons why it’s not a good idea, but the biggest one is she only see livestock as pets. We’re trying to work towards getting some cattle…someday. I told her she’s only allowed to name them Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner!

@Spike188 i like that tire coffee table!

Posted: **Mon Nov 28, 2022 11:40 am**

We’re trying to work towards getting some cattle…someday. I told her she’s only allowed to name them Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner!

My buddy names his T- Bone, Roast, Hamburger, Steak....

For the tires, I do what you are not supposed to, hang them on fence posts and keep them full of water

OH I also put mosquito dunks (intended for bird baths and small fish ponds) in them, mama mosquito lays her eggs in the tires and the young don't make it out alive

Gordy

Posted: **Sun Dec 04, 2022 3:48 pm**

After looking around and pricing sockets to fit the front hubs I decided in the long run it was more cost effective and handier to have a large socket set. Harbor Freight to the rescue!

This is a 1” set and for those of us who don’t use this size often, they’re rather large! Here a picture of a 1/2” drive ratchet next to a 1”

On another note if I ever get into a project where I need a 3 1/2” socket would one of you be kind enough to try and talk me down off the ledge as I may have gotten in over my head!

Now then, with a little heat, a little penetrating oil, some tapping, and a wrench that fits, the hub caps came off!

The next step as time allows will be to get the front drums off the truck, re grease the bearings and at least inspect the brakes.

Since it was a nice day I got my trusty work platform out and cleaned up one of the 19.5 rims that will be going on the truck.

Here’s a question for the group. What temperature is too cold to paint in? I’m not going for a showroom finish, these are old rims going on an even older truck. The criteria is the paint has to stick and they have to be black. I usually try to plan painting for spring or summer but I’m not sure I can wait to mount up the tires! What are your thoughts on painting in cold weather?

Posted: **Sun Dec 04, 2022 3:57 pm**

It's all about sprayability and drying time. The rattle cans recommend 50°. And if that temperature it will easily spray and fairly quickly dry.

But you can get away with down near freezing. It will take three or four times longer to dry, but for something like this it should be fine.

But as you get down below freezing, it just doesn't spray very well.

If you're talking about brush painting oil based paint, I'm afraid I can't help. I don't have much experience with that in colder temperatures.

Bob

Posted: **Sun Dec 04, 2022 4:32 pm**

That 3 1/2 socket would make a great cup holder .

As for painting in the winter . Here is a trick for small parts . For a sunny day have a small tent made out of what ever clear plastic . Paint parts , close up tent and leave in the sun for the day .

Posted: **Sun Dec 04, 2022 4:54 pm**

that is mighty impressive Jeff! Oh, and a set like that would cost an arm and a leg up here, I think.

Well, guess what. I painted a few parts for the basket case 644 the last few days, in subzero temperatures. Not for looks, but protection. I decided that I can always paint it better later. So I wire wheeled the parts, applied some rust treatment, let it dry well, then spray painted. The paint dried up to touch in about 18 hours, maybe faster but I didn't check. I'll show pics when I get home. Note that it was very late at night and had no patience to do multiple thin coats, so it was pretty runny.

Posted: **Sun Dec 04, 2022 6:04 pm**

My thoughts. 50 degrees. Even above that this is what I do. But some times I forget. But I normally heat the part I’m going to paint by a propane torch or hair dryer. I don’t mean to get it hot or warm to the touch, just to heat it to get the moisture off it. Have the paint ready as soon as you stop heating. Helps paint to set up a little quicker so lessen the chance of runs. Just what I do. Sometimes.

There now, there’s a uneducated painting ramble.

Noel

Posted: **Sun Dec 04, 2022 6:08 pm**

propane1 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 04, 2022 6:04 pm My thoughts. 50 degrees. Even above that this is what I do. But some times I forget. But I normally heat the part I’m going to paint by a propane torch or hair dryer. I don’t mean to get it hot or warm to the touch, just to heat it to get the moisture off it. Have the paint ready as soon as you stop heating. Helps paint to set up a little quicker so lessen the chance of runs. Just what I do. Sometimes.

There now, there’s a uneducated painting ramble.

Noel

That's a good tip Noel, thanks. I will apply this next time.

Posted: **Sun Dec 04, 2022 7:23 pm**

Might help to have the paint at room temp before painting?

Posted: **Sun Dec 04, 2022 7:56 pm**

Thanks guys, great tips! I should have mentioned this will be a rattle can paint job. I think a conglomeration of your ideas should make this work.
I’ll keep the paint in the house, and once I’m done cleaning the rims up I could put them in the basement to get them to a good temp. This all depends on the weather of course but a sunny day in the 30sF and my shop heater should get the temp inside into the 60s. I could paint in the shop but I prefer to do it outside, it doesn’t take long for the paint fumes to become intolerable. I do have a roll of clear plastic sheeting so a makeshift tent is doable. I may even get fancy and duct some warm air into it from the shop!

Eugen the price for that socket set here was a little painful too! But once I started pricing out pieces individually, getting the set was cheaper. I was surprised that Harbor Freight had a lifetime warranty as well so even though it is lower quality it made sense to get it.

Thanks again guys, I appreciate it!

Posted: **Sun Dec 04, 2022 9:36 pm**

I promised to post a pic. I think this should show that if I got this result without warming up anything you should get better results with the good tips from the guys.

Posted: **Mon Dec 05, 2022 12:38 am**

Nothing wrong with that paint job Eugen.

Noel

Posted: **Sat Dec 10, 2022 5:01 pm**

interesting idea.

Posted: **Sat Dec 10, 2022 7:04 pm**

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sat Dec 10, 2022 5:01 pm image.png
interesting idea.

Interesting idea. It's all about getting the force to the spot you needed. Good leverage!

Posted: **Sat Dec 10, 2022 7:16 pm**

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sat Dec 10, 2022 5:01 pm image.png
interesting idea.

That would be a great idea to keep with the truck for roadside trouble. I used a jack-stand as a cradle for the wrench and adjusted the height to get mine loose.

Posted: **Sun Dec 11, 2022 6:13 am**

Thought it was a neat idea . Like the jack stand idea too. Working in an automotive shop most of my life my go to was always an impact gun and blue flame spanner for the "stuck" ones .

Posted: **Sun Dec 11, 2022 8:49 pm**

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sun Dec 11, 2022 6:13 am Thought it was a neat idea . Like the jack stand idea too. Working in an automotive shop most of my life my go to was always an impact gun and blue flame spanner for the "stuck" ones .

I see a lot of guys using cordless ratchets and impacts a lot. I’m sure it’s more efficient, especially if you’re trying to make a living. My air impact doesn’t have the guts to move the big stuff!
I’ve been very cautious about using heat on lug nuts for years. My dad had a 1969 Chevy single axel dump truck. He heated the lugs up to get them off. Once everything was back together he had a full load going down the highway and every lug either backed off or broke. The duels on the passenger side came off and passed in the median! All we could figure is he got them to hot and took the temper out of them. I do know know that was a hefty tow bill!
That’s been probably close to 40 years ago and it still makes me nervous putting heat on lug nuts!

I found this wrench in the RV. It fits the lugs. But of course it’s broke. Pretty much useless like this. I don’t have the missing pieces. I was thinking about trying to fix it but it might be a fool’s errand.

Posted: **Mon Dec 12, 2022 12:48 am**

If you think there's a chance to fix it, why not? Maybe not for the heavy duty stuff but it could still be useful.

As for power tools, I look at it as a time saver. Once my wife convinced me to bring back the cheep no name drill plus impact kit and buy a Milwaukee set. Over time I added a mid-torque 1/2" drive impact, and a ratchet, and a few batteries. The impact can make the difference between a 1/2 day trying to get a bolt off, or a few minutes. This would happen on the car, when sometimes there was no good leverage for power. Not to talk about the frustration when that bolt just doesn't come off. The ratchet is really useful too. You know when you have a lot of bolts to undo, or do? A few seconds per bolt with the power ratchet, instead of half a minute or more. This ratchet I use a lot! No way I want to go back to doing everything manually. Just my preference.

Posted: **Mon Dec 12, 2022 6:11 am**

@JSinMO , Yes when the torch comes out , they get replaced . But more often than not , lugs coming loose is one of two things . Lube used on the lugs ,or rust / corrosion on the hub and / or the rim not allowing to seat 100% . Usually all of the above .

Posted: **Mon Dec 12, 2022 6:16 am**

@JSinMO
Quote"I found this wrench in the RV. It fits the lugs. But of course it’s broke. Pretty much useless like this. I don’t have the missing pieces. I was thinking about trying to fix it but it might be a fool’s errand.

Get a impact socket the correct size . Cut the bad end off and grind a square that will just fit . The tighter the better and hold it in place with a bit of weld from inside the socket . Then you have something you can keep in truck .

Posted: **Wed Dec 14, 2022 3:34 pm**

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Mon Dec 12, 2022 6:16 am
Get a impact socket the correct size . Cut the bad end off and grind a square that will just fit . The tighter the better and hold it in place with a bit of weld from inside the socket . Then you have something you can keep in truck .

Excellent idea Dave! It’s a two way wrench so I have to have a hole in both ends for the rod to go through.

So I’m thinking of something like this. Maybe I could weld a socket in and weld in a piece where it’s missing.

So I have a few vacation days I have to take before the end of the year. We’re having a couple of above average temperature days before it gets cold again so I decided to get the rims painted. I had them and the paint in the basement so they wouldn’t be too cold to paint.

As it turned out the temperature was warm enough to open the shop door and give them 2 good coats of paint! Now they can sit till I’m ready to mount tires!

There not perfect by any stretch, but they’ll be the shiniest things on the truck!

Posted: **Wed Dec 14, 2022 4:08 pm**

It's coming along nicely Jeff, the rims look good!

Posted: **Wed Dec 14, 2022 4:27 pm**

Try a file on the side of the socket . You might be able to drill the socket if you use lube and go slower speed .

Posted: **Wed Dec 14, 2022 4:30 pm**

Why is it that every automotive project gets shinny rims and tire before anything else ?

I have to say I too have been guilty of this back in the day .

Posted: **Wed Dec 14, 2022 6:49 pm**

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Dec 14, 2022 4:30 pm Why is it that every automotive project gets shinny rims and tire before anything else ?
I have to say I too have been guilty of this back in the day .
[/quote

that does seem to be the way it is! I can only speak for me. In this case it can look like crap and still drive, but not with out wheels and tires!

When I find another socked I’ll try and file it and see if I can drill it.

Posted: **Sat Dec 31, 2022 5:48 pm**

It was a pretty nice day today so I spent some time on Herbie.
Today I pulled a brake drum and took a look at things.

The bearings look fine to me. A clean up and repack with a new seal and back in they go!

The brakes don’t look bad either. The shoes still have some life so I’m gonna run them for now. Anybody want to place a bet on how many wheel cylinders leak when I start bleeding brakes?

A quick cleanup and a Craigslist rebuild pant job and it almost looks like new…from 15 feet away!

I just had time to do one side today, but not a bad way to spend a nice New Year’s Eve!

Posted: **Sat Dec 31, 2022 8:05 pm**

A fine job on that Jeff!

Posted: **Sat Dec 31, 2022 8:54 pm**

looks good Jeff , all or none will leaks . If none ,quickly go out and play the lottery before your luck runs out .

Posted: **Sat Jan 28, 2023 2:28 pm**

I’m in the shop today trying to get to the wheel cylinders to see how bad it is. Just to recap I have replaced the master cylinder, hydoboost vacuum booster, and all brake lines and hoses so wheel cylinders are basically the last components to go through on the brake system.

I alway get a little nervous when I crib something up to work on. These first two pictures are of my setup. If you see something I should do differently to be more safe please, please point it out.

I have the truck in gear with the brake set, wheels chocked, 1 floor jack, 1 bottle jack, and 1 jack stand at each wheel.

So far I’ve got the front wheel cylinder off and I’m glad I didn’t try to pressurize the system. It’s stuck and it’s a ball of rust

I’ve got it soaking, but it doesn’t look promising. I was hoping to rebuild these since availability of new one are getting kinda scarce, but even if I get the piston out I’m not sure I’ll have anything to work with.

I’m moving to the he back now. I know some of you guys probably have more experience with free float axles than I
do, just wondering if you have a trick to get the cones loose to slide the axel out?

Any tips, suggestions, or comments are sure welcome and appreciated!

Posted: **Sat Jan 28, 2023 2:49 pm**

@JSinMO loosen all the nuts off but leave them on a few turns so you do not have to chase the cones . brass drift or hammer and hit the side of the axle flange in a rotating manner until the come loose . Have a catch pan under it so less to clean up after .
Have fun .

Posted: **Sat Jan 28, 2023 5:30 pm**

I always felt unsafe with those jacks under the car, what if there's a small earthquake? I use some thick pieces of ash, just thicker than me, just roll them under. I figure if anything happens the car can't fall lower than the logs.

Posted: **Sat Jan 28, 2023 8:36 pm**

It’s been kind of an exciting afternoon!
@DavidBarkey your advice was perfect, some rapping on and around the axle flange and they all popped out! Thank you!

I removed the axel and wrapped the splines in bubble wrap so they don’t get dinged up. I got the brake drum off and cleaned up a little, then removed the 2 wheel cylinder off the back. They were both stuck, but I got them apart pretty easily. I stared to clean them up, and I am thinking these may be able to be rebuilt! The dust boots on the outside and rubber cups on the inside aren’t dry rotted or split and they’re still pliable! I still have a lot of clean up and checking but these may work fine! The front one though, it’s still stuck not sure if it’s gonna come loose.

I had pictures to add but for some reason they won’t upload this evening. If I can I’ll add them later.

@Eugen i here you, I never feel safe enough. I think it’s good I just didn’t like having my jack stands and bottle jacks so spaced out. I tried shaking the truck before I started and it wouldn’t budge. You could probably have a dance party on the bed and it would be fine, but I’m not gonna try!

Pictures are loading now so I’ll try to add them in order.

Posted: **Sat Jan 28, 2023 11:28 pm**

JSinMO wrote: ↑Sat Jan 28, 2023 8:36 pm It’s been kind of an exciting afternoon!
@DavidBarkey your advice was perfect, some rapping on and around the axle flange and they all popped out! Thank you! I removed the axel and wrapped the splines in bubble wrap so they don’t get dinged up. I got the brake drum off and cleaned up a little, then removed the 2 wheel cylinder off the back. They were both stuck, but I got them apart pretty easily. I stared to clean them up, and I am thinking these may be able to be rebuilt! The dust boots on the outside and rubber cups on the inside aren’t dry rotted or split and they’re still pliable! I still have a lot of clean up and checking but these may work fine! The front one though, it’s still stuck not sure if it’s gonna come loose.

I had pictures to add but for some reason they won’t upload this evening. If I can I’ll add them later.

@Eugen i here you, I never feel safe enough. I think it’s good I just didn’t like having my jack stands and bottle jacks so spaced out. I tried shaking the truck before I started and it wouldn’t budge. You could probably have a dance party on the bed and it would be fine, but I’m not gonna try!

I don't have jack stands, but I do have a bunch of lumber, 6x6 4x4 2x4. I start with the 6x6's 2 wide, then 2 4x4's and 2x4's. Always alternate each layer N-S and E-W

With the stuck brake cylinder. I found out the hard way, the first thing to do is see if you can get the bleeder out. If they snap off they are a Royal PITA to get out without wrecking the threads in the cylinder. If that will loosen up, buy or make an adapter to screw into the hole for the brake line and the other end needs to be threaded for a grease zerk. A grease gun with the long handle should provide enough pressure to get one of the pistons out. Then use a large wooden dowel to drive the other piston out. The dowel should just barely fit in the cylinder to apply the force to the pistons skirt, too small and you run the risk of knocking a hole in the center of the piston.

Gordy

Posted: **Sat Jan 28, 2023 11:49 pm**

@Gordy Thank you for the tips! I was able to get the rear cylinders apart without much trouble, but the fronts are a single piston design so it’s only coming out one way! Great idea using grease to move the piston. I’ll have to dig around the empire of dirt and see if I can come up with some fittings. Thank you!

Posted: **Sun Jan 29, 2023 6:22 am**

quote
The front one though, it’s still stuck not sure if it’s gonna come loose.
@JSinMO Pull the dust cover off and immerse it in brake fluid . Do not use diesel fuel or penetrates as it will damage the seal inside . Use a tin can just big enough to fit it in . put that can it another can /pot of hot water . Do not try to heat the brake fluid with a flame , but you can put the pot of water on a hot plate to keep it warm . This will help loosen things up from both sides . when using a grease gun to separate the cylinder use only synthetic grease , petroleum will damage the seal .

Posted: **Thu Feb 02, 2023 9:59 pm**

I spent some time this evening fiddling around the shop.

I haven’t tried to get getting the front caliper loose yet but I cleaned it up and I can see some numbers on it. I’m going to see if I can find replacements. I also need new seals on the rear drums.

I fought with that thing for 2 hours and I still don’t have it out. I’ve started to cut it out with a cold chisel, don’t know what else to do. I’ve pretty well mangled it at this point.

I wouldn’t care except I at least need some of it intact to size a new one since I don’t see any numbers on it.

I give up for tonight, time to go in and get cleaned up!

Posted: **Fri Feb 03, 2023 12:49 am**

JSinMO wrote: ↑Thu Feb 02, 2023 9:59 pm I spent some time this evening fiddling around the shop.
B4BD36C7-32D1-4925-B38F-E0F26CFFCDED.jpeg

I haven’t tried to get getting the front caliper loose yet but I cleaned it up and I can see some numbers on it. I’m going to see if I can find replacements. I also need new seals on the rear drums. EFCD4BE1-1446-48CF-BF8C-CFD9E917E423.jpeg
I fought with that thing for 2 hours and I still don’t have it out. I’ve started to cut it out with a cold chisel, don’t know what else to do. I’ve pretty well mangled it at this point. I wouldn’t care except I at least need some of it intact to size a new one since I don’t see any numbers on it. I give up for tonight, time to go in and get cleaned up!

Seal pullers are not used often, but handy as hell when you need them. There are a few different styles, this is one I have. On a bigger seal like that I have had to use some cribbing (2, 1/4" key stock) on the casting next to the seal, with some flat stock across them, to make clearance for the seal to start lifting out.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools ... lsrc=aw.ds

Another thing that worked for me. I have a slide hammer with a tip that excepts a sheet metal screw. Drill a couple holes in the seal close to the outer edge 180 degrees apart, and insert the self tapping screw. Then tug the seal out with the slide hammer. lacking a slide hammer a claw hammer should work.

Gordy

Posted: **Fri Feb 03, 2023 10:18 am**

x2 for the self tapping screw and prybar/crowbar/clawhammer suggestion... bonus trick for drilling the hole is to put a small blob of grease on seal and drill your pilot hole through the grease blob - the grease will hold all the swarf (chips) so they are easier to clean up and less likely to go into the bearing behind the seal.

Posted: **Fri Feb 03, 2023 7:38 pm**

@Gordy , @RoamingGnome Thanks guys! I’ll probably give it shot tomorrow. I called Chuck over at Chucks Trucks this afternoon he has the front wheel cylinders at a reasonable price, I couldn’t find them locally so I’m not going to mess with the old ones. They have Ford part numbers stamped in them so I’m guessing there the originals. I have to call him in the morning to give him measurements for the drum seals, so hopefully the last of the brake parts will be in the way shortly.

Posted: **Fri Feb 03, 2023 8:34 pm**

I typically take a screwdriver to the outside edge of the seal where it meets the hub. A few drives of the hammer and it will push the seal in 1/8" there. Then you can pop it out opposite edge with the seal puller. I do this method when they are stuck.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Posted: **Sat Feb 04, 2023 6:11 pm**

Made a little more progress today!
I used a little heat and two self tapping screws and walked the old seal out!

I feel like I should have thought of that, but then again I never said I was the sharpest knife in the drawer!

Thanks again guys, it’s so nice to be able to come here for help!

I also assembled the two rear wheel cylinders and installed them back on the truck, and cleaned up the drum and painted it.

So now I wait for parts to come in. I have 2 front wheel cylinders, 2 rear drum seals, and 2 axel gaskets that hopefully can be order on Monday and arrive by next weekend.
I’m excited for the parts to come, I might actually finally have working brakes!

Posted: **Sat Feb 04, 2023 8:38 pm**

You're unstoppable Jeff! Nice progress! Keep it coming!

Posted: **Sun Feb 12, 2023 5:29 pm**

Here’s todays truck ramble.
Since I’m waiting for parts to finish up the brakes I thought I’d start the engine tune up beginning with this.

The truck runs but it definitely has fuel delivery issues. So I pulled the carburetor off the truck and tore it down to rebuild. I had purchased a rebuild kit for this awhile back and sure enough it’s not the right one

crap!

And the float has a hole in it so I’ll try to source one since I’m not finding the hole

crap!

Oh well I’ll move on the the electrical system. I replaced the plugs and the old one were pretty much as expected. Fouled with pretty obvious valve seal leaks. I don’t think im going to worry about that for now. I think I’ll see how long it takes to foul the new plugs before I get worked up about it.

Moved on the replacing the plug wires since the ones in the truck are pretty crusty. Here too I bought a set awhile back…
Yup they’re way to short

crap!

Ok I might as well take a look at the points while I’m here.
Pulled the distributor cap off and yep it looks terrible, so does the rotor

crap! That ones my fault, I should have figured on that.

So now im at a stand still till parts come in, and that’s not really a bad thing, kind of the way these projects go unless you’re impatient like me!

On a side note this truck is equipped with a high idle cable that runs to the dash board. I think the idea is you can pull the cable to set the engine speed up some when you’re stopped and running the bed hoist. Is not connected to the carburetor and I’m not seeing where it goes. Anybody have experience with where it goes? It’s the cable laying by the valve cover in the first picture. Here’s what it looks like in the cab.

Thank you guys for following along with Herbie!

Posted: **Sun Feb 12, 2023 7:11 pm**

I’m just guessing here Jeff. But I wonder if it goes to the fast idle cam an the choke linkage. ? Just guessing.

Noel

Posted: **Sun Feb 12, 2023 7:41 pm**

If the way back machine in my head is working

See the red in the picture there should be a bracket mounted in those holes to mount the bracket on the cable to. The blue circle is were a chain was held on with a C clip, the other end of chain was mounted to the core of the cable. The chain I remember was the big brother of the little ball chain found on old finger nail clippers.

There could be other designs of coarse and your long cable core makes me think yours may have been different, but in the picture I don't see any holes where the cable core could slide through. But it has to be free floating and non binding as to not interfere with normal foot pedal operation, but you probably knew that

Gordy

Posted: **Sun Feb 12, 2023 7:59 pm**

I got another guess. The cable is hooked to a flat bar or rod poivts. This flat bar or rod hits on the front side of the throttle linkage, when you pull the cable the flat bar or rod pushes on the throttle linkage and opens the throttle. And you lock it where you want on the cab with the throttle knob. When released it would have no interference with the operate of the gas pedal. Just a guess.

Noel

Posted: **Sun Feb 12, 2023 8:40 pm**

@propane1 , @Gordy Thank you guys that helps!

Gordy, I wish I could say “well of course it has to free float”, but the truth is I hadn’t thought of it till now!

As soon as I read your post it came back to me. I can remember the chain set up you’re talking about, but it’s literally hurting my head trying to remember the details!

and as you said this may have been different.
Either way I’m missing parts to it.
Noel im thinking your idea may be closer to how this was set up. I’ll have to wait till I get the carburetor back on the engine but I think I can make that work. It may be a bit cobbled as seriously doubt those parts are readily available.

Another example once again that we have some of the most knowledgeable, helpful people around! I appreciate it guys!

Posted: **Sun Feb 12, 2023 8:50 pm**

My brain hurts just trying to follow the discussion

you guys keep going, it's like I'm watching star trek, don't understand it but I like it!

Posted: **Sun Feb 12, 2023 9:35 pm**

It's an interesting question - so I did some googling... I'd hate to add any more confusion to the mix - but does this video help any? In a generic sort of way?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sm13JA3XYaI

I've been a little spoiled in 40+ yrs of owning vehicles they have almost all exclusively been small, Japanese and used throttle cables to connect pedal to linkage (I've almost completely managed to block out memories of the 302 in my Dad's '72 Ford Econoline

)

When I used to go off-roading with my Suzuki Samurai buddies years ago a few of them improvised a cruise control so they could "idle up" when using a winch or crawling along a forest trail. They used a shift lever from a 10 speed bicycle - attached the cable end to the throttle linkage at the carb and put the lever on the tranny shifter so it was handy, but out of the way...

Posted: **Sun Feb 12, 2023 10:28 pm**

@RoamingGnome The video is kinda, sort of, in the ballpark. What your friends were doing on their 4X4 is exactly what this is. It’s just a cable attached to the throttle at the carburetor that you can pull and lock inside the cab to raise the engine RPM. In my case this truck has a power take off on the side of the transmission which controls the hydraulic pump for the bed hoist. So the engine RPM directly controls the speed at which the truck bed raises. You can control the hoist speed with the foot throttle so I assume the extra throttle cable is there so you can set the RPM with out over revving the engine. Some one with more experience would have to chime in for the other uses of this cable.

Posted: **Sun Feb 12, 2023 10:45 pm**

Eugen wrote: ↑Sun Feb 12, 2023 8:50 pm My brain hurts just trying to follow the discussion you guys keep going, it's like I'm watching star trek, don't understand it but I like it!

You have no idea how happy I am to know I am not alone! There have been a few threads on this site where I have tried to follow along only to find myself off in the weeds somewhere!

I’ll try to remember to take pictures whenever it’s done, it will make sense.

Posted: **Mon Feb 13, 2023 7:32 am**

The propane company I worked for in the late seventy’s had a truck that had a power lift gate. It was hydraulic, was operated by an pto from the transmission. 1973 Ford F-350 , you would put the transmission in neutral, push the clutch in, turn a lever to engage the transmission pto, let the clutch back out and you could operate the lift tail gate. I don’t remember if it had a throttle to rasie the engine rpm of not.

Just a useless information ramble, but thought you’d like the read.

Noel

Posted: **Mon Feb 13, 2023 8:29 am**

@JSinMO If you can find a old timer mechanic that had a tow truck . They will know what you need . to hook that up .

Posted: **Mon Feb 13, 2023 9:18 am**

Eugen wrote: ↑Sun Feb 12, 2023 8:50 pm My brain hurts just trying to follow the discussion you guys keep going, it's like I'm watching star trek, don't understand it but I like it!

Think of it as a poor man's /primitive cruise control

Gordy

Posted: **Mon Feb 13, 2023 9:53 am**

JSinMO wrote: ↑Sun Feb 12, 2023 10:28 pm @RoamingGnome The video is kinda, sort of, in the ballpark. What your friends were doing on their 4X4 is exactly what this is. It’s just a cable attached to the throttle at the carburetor that you can pull and lock inside the cab to raise the engine RPM. In my case this truck has a power take off on the side of the transmission which controls the hydraulic pump for the bed hoist. So the engine RPM directly controls the speed at which the truck bed raises. You can control the hoist speed with the foot throttle so I assume the extra throttle cable is there so you can set the RPM with out over revving the engine. Some one with more experience would have to chime in for the other uses of this cable.

I did find a couple pictures of the throttle cable set up, but on a f700 and a different / holley carb

I'll look some more

It may be helpful to get a better side shot picture of your carb linkage.

I forgot about your float before

Put it in a ziplock bag, then in the freezer for a few hours. The air in it will condense and hopefully draw in more air through the hole. Then submerge it in near boiling water, this will cause the air to expand and come out the hole, watch for bubbles.

If the hole is really tiny it may be necessary to drill it out to 1/64" to drain the gas out.

Soldering a float can be a PITA you have to be quick, too much heat and the air expands quickly pushing the solder out and it also cools quick and sucks the solder in before it solidifies.

Gordy

Posted: **Mon Feb 13, 2023 9:55 am**

Gordy wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 9:18 am
Eugen wrote: ↑Sun Feb 12, 2023 8:50 pm My brain hurts just trying to follow the discussion you guys keep going, it's like I'm watching star trek, don't understand it but I like it!
Think of it as a poor man's /primitive cruise control

Gordy

Exactly Gordy. I would think someone somewhere did use it for that.

Noel

Posted: **Mon Feb 13, 2023 9:58 am**

I’ve put a little tab of Seal All Glue on floats before too fix holes. Worked good.

Noel

Posted: **Mon Feb 13, 2023 10:04 am**

propane1 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 9:58 am I’ve put a little tab of Seal All Glue on floats before too fix holes. Worked good.

Noel

Knowing how aggressive gas is I never got the courage to try a glue

Gordy

Posted: **Mon Feb 13, 2023 11:58 am**

Seal All Glue resists oil and gasoline. I fixed a aluminum block oil leak on my MF7 years ago. The oil was seeping through the block. No leak since.
My father showed me this stuff 50 or so years ago.

Noel

Posted: **Mon Feb 13, 2023 3:30 pm**

propane1 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 11:58 am Seal All Glue resists oil and gasoline. I fixed a aluminum block oil leak on my MF7 years ago. The oil was seeping through the block. No leak since.
My father showed me this stuff 50 or so years ago.

Noel

Have you ever fixed a fuel tank with it ?

Posted: **Mon Feb 13, 2023 5:08 pm**

I did. But it was 35 or so years ago. On a Subaru Brat. Was on the bottom of the tank. And it was rusty. I think from what I can remember it fixed it for a while. But I don’t remember what I did to fix it permanently.

Noel

Posted: **Mon Feb 13, 2023 7:35 pm**

I was able to do some research today and I have a bit of a convoluted tale to tell. When you get into a project it really doesn’t matter if it’s an old tractor, or vehicle, or whatever it seems it’s not only about turning wrenches, but also about investigating! So down the rabbit hole we go!

If you remember when I started this I said the engine was a 292 and the previous owner Mr. Gamm corrected me and said it was a 272. Well I called Chuck at Chuck’s Truck and picked his brain. He confirmed what I had looked up when I started Ford stopped using the 272 engine by 1961 and only used the 292 in trucks. But the PO is correct because he put the 272 in years ago. That’s why my carburetor kit was wrong. I bought a kit for an Autolight 2100 but a later version. I need a kit for an early 2100 from the 1950’s! This also explains why the auxiliary throttle cable is laying there. The mounting bracket and linkage left with the 292 engine and carburetor when they did the engine swap. I guess they didn’t need it. Why they put an older engine in I have no idea, probably what was available at the time. So does any of this really matter? As far as getting the right parts the first time, yes. But other than that I guess not really. It matters to me because it’s another interesting layer in the history of the truck, and it clears things up in my mind.

Now I have the correct carburetor kit, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and points ordered and on the way!

This just leaves one mystery on the engine tune up at this point….

My research showed the float should look like this.

The float in my carburetor looks like this.

I have no idea why.
You have to find a new old stock float to replace it and they aren’t readily available.
So I’m going to follow the method @Gordy
explained in his post and see if I can find the hole in mine and fix it. Certainly would be more satisfying to repair what I have rather than replace it.
@propane1 Noel if you say Seal All works I definitely believe you, but I’m just scared to use something like that on a part that will be submerged in gas. I’m going to try and solder it up and maybe keep Seal All as a back up.

Sorry for the long ramble, I guess I’m just excited to be putting the pieces together!
I really enjoy sharing this project with you all, and learning from you! Thanks for coming along for the ride!

Posted: **Mon Feb 13, 2023 8:46 pm**

Gordy wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 9:53 am

I did find a couple pictures of the throttle cable set up, but on a f700 and a different / holley carb I'll look some more It may be helpful to get a better side shot picture of your carb linkage.

Gordy

Thank you for looking. I’d like to see what you found. I’m sure it will help if I have to make what I need.
What did you type in to search? I haven’t found any good pictures yet.
I will get a couple of pictures of my linkage as soon as I can.
Thank you!

Posted: **Mon Feb 13, 2023 11:24 pm**

I fixed a 96 chevy cavalier steel tank with Seal All. Was leaking at the seam bad. Smeared it on and sealed it up. That stuff is awesome. Resists gas well. I have some on the shelf now.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Posted: **Tue Feb 14, 2023 12:44 am**

JSinMO wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 8:46 pm
Gordy wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 9:53 am

I did find a couple pictures of the throttle cable set up, but on a f700 and a different / holley carb I'll look some more It may be helpful to get a better side shot picture of your carb linkage.

Gordy
Thank you for looking. I’d like to see what you found. I’m sure it will help if I have to make what I need.
What did you type in to search? I haven’t found any good pictures yet.
I will get a couple of pictures of my linkage as soon as I can.
Thank you!

I was starting to wonder about a carb or engine swap

I entered "1961 ford f500 carburetor linkage" in a google search then clicked on "images" under the search box. Here's the links to the pictures there is a visit site button you might be interested in for "Ford Truck Enthusiast Forums"

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=ht ... B0AAAAAEBs

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=ht ... egUIARD1AQ

Gordy

Posted: **Tue Feb 14, 2023 9:58 am**

Jancoe wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 11:24 pm I fixed a 96 chevy cavalier steel tank with Seal All. Was leaking at the seam bad. Smeared it on and sealed it up. That stuff is awesome. Resists gas well. I have some on the shelf now.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

I always have some around. Just not for sealing liquids. Good adhesive too.

Noel

Posted: **Tue Feb 14, 2023 7:28 pm**

Well I have turned, twisted, and shook this float in every conceivable way I can think of. I followed Gordy’s instructions
too, and I’ll be darned if I can find the hole!
I can clearly hear liquid inside of it.

There’s not much liquid inside of it and it still floats, so I guess the question is what the heck do I do with it?

A) Drill a small hole in the top, drain it, reseal the hole and try to add some solder to the seams too.

B) Leave the liquid in it and just add some solder around the seams.

C) Do nothing to it, slap it back in the carburetor and see how long it floats.

D) Try some other ideas you are thinking of.

What do you guys think?

Also here’s a couple of pictures of the linkage I said I would post.

Posted: **Tue Feb 14, 2023 7:59 pm**

One thing is. You don’t want to add to much weight no matter which method you use to seal the hole. It may add to much and the float may not float properly.
I would try drying it well, take a big black marker and blacken the whole float. Then turn it around so the liquid gets to all parts inside. The leak will be easier to see on the black than on the tin. Just a thought.

Noel

Posted: **Tue Feb 14, 2023 8:42 pm**

Can the float be slowly heated to help vaporize the gas creating pressure to force it out the tiny hole? Might want to look up what temp gas vaporizes at. It you do heat it, be careful.

Posted: **Tue Feb 14, 2023 10:07 pm**

Matt, I thought about heating it also. My thought was put it into a pan of water that is just below boiling point. As the float heats the vapours should cause a visible bubble trail as it exits the float.

As word of caution, even a something as small as a float can be dangerous if it over-pressures and ruptures. Also do not let the water temperature drop before removing the float from the bath. Water bath canning experience talking there. You don't want the cooling float to draw water back in if there is a hole. I would suggest removing the float from the bath as soon as a bubble trail appears to reduce the possibility of a small flash fire. As a preteen my siblings and I learned to lay empty aerosol cans on a trash fire seam down. They usually ruptured along the seam and would launch higher with a more predictable flight path.

Posted: **Wed Feb 15, 2023 12:03 am**

JSinMO wrote: ↑Tue Feb 14, 2023 7:28 pm Well I have turned, twisted, and shook this float in every conceivable way I can think of. I followed Gordy’s instructions
too, and I’ll be darned if I can find the hole!
I can clearly hear liquid inside of it.
A61727D6-441F-4B77-AC90-2662100C5762.jpeg

There’s not much liquid inside of it and it still floats, so I guess the question is what the heck do I do with it?

A) Drill a small hole in the top, drain it, reseal the hole and try to add some solder to the seams too.

B) Leave the liquid in it and just add some solder around the seams.

C) Do nothing to it, slap it back in the carburetor and see how long it floats.

D) Try some other ideas you are thinking of.

What do you guys think?

Also here’s a couple of pictures of the linkage I said I would post.

C69560F5-D25E-4563-9A54-15E9D7A76A49.jpeg
A95C70F8-EEBB-46C9-93D2-F0DCE20AB2E3.jpeg

Hard to tell, but in the picture it looks like you did not have enough water in the pan to fully submerge the float under water. If that is the case I would try the test again with enough water to completely submerge the float.

It looks like the Holley carb in my pictures had another arm on the throttle shaft for the auxiliary throttle cable.

Gordy

Posted: **Wed Feb 15, 2023 6:53 am**

I would clean it so all varnish and oxides are gone ( suitable for soldering ) . Gently heat with hair drier on high and cool in dry environment to get the fuel to evaporate and be replaced with air . This may take a few cycles until no fuel is present anymore . Then with plumbers solder and flux re-solder the seam . Use an iron , not a torch , just in case there are still fumes inside .

Posted: **Wed Feb 15, 2023 2:05 pm**

I find this float problem very interesting and the ways to tackle that you guys came up with are quite ingenious. Nothing to add, but I'm curious what'll work in the end.

Posted: **Wed Feb 15, 2023 8:17 pm**

I want to thank all of you for your input!

I appreciate it more than you know!

At this point I have completed the hot water bath test twice. I know the picture doesn’t show it good, but the float was completely submerged in both tests with the same result. No visible air bubbles. I also have no gas coming out no matter how I position the float. The only indication I have is an intermittent smell of bad gas at the front of the float.

This makes me believe I have a very small hole. Working on that theory I don’t feel comfortable trying to heat and vent the old gas out. This is a pressure vessel, all be it a small one so I fear over pressurizing it with a hole that small and either rupturing the body or damaging otherwise good seals.

I have decided on this course of action. I’m going to drill a small hole through the original vent hole and drain the old gas out. Then re solder that hole shut.

Then I’m going to go with @propane1 and @Jancoe product of choice. I stopped by o’Reillys on the way home and I’ll be, there it is!

I’ve never used it before, but I think this situation will be a good opportunity to test it! I believe my trouble is in the seam so I’m going to run a thin bead around the seam and see how it does.

I’m quite curious to see how much gas come out!

Posted: **Wed Feb 15, 2023 8:59 pm**

Sounds like a good plan to me. But since you make a bigger hole, are you not tempted to resolder all around?

Jeff, do you have a sensitive kitchen scale to see the difference before and after you get the gas out?

Posted: **Wed Feb 15, 2023 9:40 pm**

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Feb 15, 2023 8:59 pm Sounds like a good plan to me. But since you make a bigger hole, are you not tempted to resolder all around?

Jeff, do you have a sensitive kitchen scale to see the difference before and after you get the gas out?

Yes i am tempted to just resolder all around. But I think im even more curious to know if Seal All can do the job. At this point I’m confident my trouble is in the seam so that is where I plan to test it. If it works as well as the guys have said, it would be mighty handy to keep on hand! If it doesn’t the float is as easy to get to as the ones on our tractors so no big deal to pull the top of the carburetor and resolder it then.

Unfortunately I don’t have a scale sensitive enough to weigh the before and after. I plan to try to capture what come out just to see how much was in there!

Posted: **Wed Feb 15, 2023 11:35 pm**

Keep the set course Jeff! An idea did come to me when I saw that blob of solder in the middle.

I would melt that blob with a soldering gun and suck the solder with this tool

because I have one. Then I would drill a tiny hole there if the original hole was not open. Would fill the float with water and then keep the float with hole downwards so the water inside gathers at the hole and either suck or push air in with a syringe with thin needle, which would force the water out. I happen to have a syringe too from giving the dog injections.

Then I'd heat the seam all around with a mini butane torch, as I have one of those too, and take the two halves apart. If it didn't come apart I'd just do fresh solder with the torch all around, just like in plumbing, and wipe excess solder with a wet rag.

If it did come apart I'd clean up both halves and solder them back together.

To solder the remaining hole I'd keep the float with the hole downwards and heat up the spot with the torch touching the spot with solder from time to time until a blob sticks nicely at the hole. I'd keep the float with the blob down as the weight of the blob counteracts the possible sucking that might happen there. How's that for a hairy suggestion?!

I'm not done though. I would also silver plate it. Don't laugh, I've done it to parts of a boat carb I used to have.

Posted: **Thu Feb 16, 2023 5:12 am**

Good luck Jeff.

Noel

Posted: **Thu Feb 16, 2023 9:04 am**

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Feb 15, 2023 11:35 pm Keep the set course Jeff! An idea did come to me when I saw that blob of solder in the middle.

7EF843DC-5FC9-4641-8E2B-011FB5DB64AD.jpeg

I would melt that blob with a soldering gun and suck the solder with this tool

46BC3F8C-2720-4B53-9BF0-17A0FF60E5AD.jpeg

because I have one. Then I would drill a tiny hole there if the original hole was not open. Would fill the float with water and then keep the float with hole downwards so the water inside gathers at the hole and either suck or push air in with a syringe with thin needle, which would force the water out. I happen to have a syringe too from giving the dog injections.

Then I'd heat the seam all around with a mini butane torch, as I have one of those too, and take the two halves apart. If it didn't come apart I'd just do fresh solder with the torch all around, just like in plumbing, and wipe excess solder with a wet rag.

If it did come apart I'd clean up both halves and solder them back together.

To solder the remaining hole I'd keep the float with the hole downwards and heat up the spot with the torch touching the spot with solder from time to time until a blob sticks nicely at the hole. I'd keep the float with the blob down as the weight of the blob counteracts the possible sucking that might happen there. How's that for a hairy suggestion?!

I'm not done though. I would also silver plate it. Don't laugh, I've done it to parts of a boat carb I used to have.

Dang, I wish there wasn’t 700 miles between us because you’re hired!

That’s a good plan for sure.

If I can’t make it work don’t be surprised if you get a package in the mail with a float it, with a note asking you to fix it! No silver plating necessary.

Posted: **Thu Feb 16, 2023 10:50 am**

One thing that comes to mind is the weight of the float. Whatever the fix is, the weight should probably not increase too much. Some deviation would be fine as you can adjust the tab so the float closes the gas intake as it should. Easy with the goo, I guess that's what I'm saying, but I'm sure you'd have been careful with that anyway.

Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2023 4:58 pm**

Well the float has been empty and vented for a few days now so I got the soldering gun out and closed the hole I drilled.

Then I applied the Seal All to the seam all around the float. It’s clear and spreads nice and thin. I went with one coat so I don’t think I changed the weight enough to hurt anything.

I followed the instructions and waited well past the full cure time and then I tested it. I submerged it in gas for several hours, (this time in a gas resistant container!).

I can report that @propane1 and @Jancoe are absolutely correct!
I cleaned off the float and no leaks! The gas appears to have no effect on the Seal All! Good call guys

So I’m calling the float ready to install.

I did some cleaning on the carburetor, and intake. Then I decided to take a look at that front wheel cylinder.
Dug around till I found a grease fitting that was a close match to the treads. It took some pressure but the piston came loose!

I immediately cleaned all the grease up and believe it or not the seal and bore look great! I don’t see a problem with them. I looks like the aluminum piston was stuck to the bore.
It did clean up but the very edge of it is rotted away.

I really think it’s reusable! So now the question is do it try it?
I do have new ones ordered but I haven’t got confirmation of shipment yet, so I’m thinking I’ll wait to see if the new ones come and keep this for a spare. Hopefully the other side turns out as good!

Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2023 6:08 pm**

That’s all great news Jeff.

Noel

Posted: **Mon Feb 20, 2023 12:36 am**

Glad you fixed it @JSinMO, nicely done! I will get myself some of that allseal! Seems to be the kind of thing you want to have around. Thank you Noel for mentioning it!

Posted: **Mon Feb 20, 2023 9:02 am**

Eugen wrote: ↑Mon Feb 20, 2023 12:36 am Glad you fixed it @JSinMO, nicely done! I will get myself some of that allseal! Seems to be the kind of thing you want to have around. Thank you Noel for mentioning it!

Ya , me too . Googled it . Watch where you buy it .
2 oz. / 59.1 ml
Amazon reseller $39.08 can
CTC $8.49
Local hardware store range $8-$9 for that size .

Posted: **Mon Feb 20, 2023 10:10 am**

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Mon Feb 20, 2023 9:02 am Ya , me too . Googled it . Watch where you buy it .
2 oz. / 59.1 ml
Amazon reseller $39.08 can
CTC $8.49
Local hardware store range $8-$9 for that size .

Thanks for the tip Dave! I'll look for it next time I go to Canadian tire.

Posted: **Mon Feb 20, 2023 7:29 pm**

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Mon Feb 20, 2023 9:02 am
Eugen wrote: ↑Mon Feb 20, 2023 12:36 am Glad you fixed it @JSinMO, nicely done! I will get myself some of that allseal! Seems to be the kind of thing you want to have around. Thank you Noel for mentioning it!
Ya , me too . Googled it . Watch where you buy it .
2 oz. / 59.1 ml
Amazon reseller $39.08 can
CTC $8.49
Local hardware store range $8-$9 for that size .

I found that to be the case south of the border as well. Lowe’s was twice as much as the auto parts store.

Posted: **Sat Feb 25, 2023 10:10 pm**

What I hope will be the last of the parts I need arrived Thursday afternoon noon.

it sounds kinda dumb I guess but knowing I’d be reassembling things today made it hard to sleep last night!

I can get things done but there is no doubt I wouldn’t make it in a real shop, I’m SLOW

! I usually set the bar to high as to what I can accomplish in a day, and today was no exception. I thought I should take may time and get it right so that’s what I did, but Id hoped I be bleeding brakes today, nope.

New right front wheel cylinder installed. New seal, re checked my bearings and adjusted the brakes.
Cleaned the right rear bearings, installed the new seal and installed the rear drum and axel back on the truck.

Put the tires on that side.

: C7F8AE32-AC03-4D2F-BA74-206FC43BA960.jpeg (999.78 KiB) Viewed 5542 times

There’s really no need to put the duel on yet, but I just had to see how it looks! I like it!
I only put a couple of nuts on the axel for now, just in case it has to come back apart for some reason and all the lug nuts will need to be torqued, but the passenger side is together.

Moved my jacks and cribbing to the left front and took it apart. Other than a leaking seal and the stuck cylinder it looks good.

New wheel cylinder installed. I cleaned and painted the drum and cleaned the bearings so tomorrow its ready to go back together. That leaves one wheel left to disassemble and clean up then finally I can start bleeding.

The old drivers side wheel cylinder was the same as the other one, piston stuck but seal in good shape. I used the grease trick again and got it apart and cleaned up. I have no doubt these could be put back into service if I ever needed to.
The question to you guys is; Does anyone know a good way to preserve the rubber seals and boots for storage?

: C8801EA7-4FF2-40E8-9E33-1C039442D955.jpeg (982.41 KiB) Viewed 5542 times

Posted: **Sun Feb 26, 2023 12:07 am**

You got a lot done Jeff! The truck's starting to look well, especially with the duals at the back. I have no particular experience with storing rubber but definitely sun will not help. I'd say in a contractor garbage bag taped so it's almost sealed, and kept in a dark place.

Posted: **Sun Feb 26, 2023 7:26 am**

Sil glyde brake lube . Coat all surfaces metal and rubber both sides in tin coat before reassembly then a dab over the line hole to keep the moister out of the inside . Bag and Tag in jip loc bag for storage . Sil Glyde under the dust boot helps reduce corrosion in the cylinder as well .

Posted: **Sun Feb 26, 2023 10:11 am**

I use silicone paste on rubber components. Will not dry out and cause cracking or swelling of the rubber.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Posted: **Sun Feb 26, 2023 10:14 am**

JSinMO wrote: ↑Sat Feb 25, 2023 10:10 pm What I hope will be the last of the parts I need arrived Thursday afternoon noon. it sounds kinda dumb I guess but knowing I’d be reassembling things today made it hard to sleep last night!

I can get things done but there is no doubt I wouldn’t make it in a real shop, I’m SLOW ! I usually set the bar to high as to what I can accomplish in a day, and today was no exception. I thought I should take may time and get it right so that’s what I did, but Id hoped I be bleeding brakes today, nope.

@JSinMO - really enjoying your progress updates - It's nice to be able to work on a job at a pace you decide and are comfortable with. Not feeling pressure to rush the process - so often that leads to damaged components or tools when people "push" a little harder

instead of stepping back and being able to figure out why something isn't going according to plan...

Gerry

Posted: **Sun Feb 26, 2023 7:38 pm**

Todays truck update.
Greased bearings, new seal, and reassembled driver side front. The lugs on the drivers side are clearly marked L for left hand threads, yet I found myself turning them the wrong way at least a half dozen times!

One last filthy wheel to take apart.

Disassembly went smooth with no issues. I am glad I left the other axel loose since after looking at this side I realized I made a mistake with the axel nuts and lock washers on the passenger side. Shouldn’t be a big deal just slip it back out and correct it.

As I dig into this truck it appears to me it was fairly well maintained before it was parked up for 35 years. The brake components all look good. The frame and bed stringers are all solid, no rust holes, no sketchy welds or alterations. Sure it’s dirty, but in good shape.

Wheel cylinders were the same as the other side stuck but just in need of a good cleaning and a very light hone. I cleaned them up and reassembled them.

Then I moved on to the drum. You know when i listen to your tips and knowledge the job just goes smoother

A dab of grease and two self tapping screws and the old seal came right out without mangling it!

I got the drum all cleaned up and painted, and had to stop for the day.

So the next time I get to work on it I should be down to reassembling that last wheel and then start bleeding brakes and see if I have leaks and or working brakes!

I feel like I keep saying this, but I don’t think it can be overstated. Thank you all for your help, tips, and thoughts on this project, it really means alot to me and I appreciate it!

Even though I didn’t get as far as I wanted this weekend I still made good progress and that is very satisfying!

Posted: **Mon Feb 27, 2023 12:13 am**

As I dig into this truck it appears to me it was fairly well maintained before it was parked up for 35 years. The brake components all look good. The frame and bed stringers are all solid, no rust holes, no sketchy welds or alterations. Sure it’s dirty, but in good shape.

This is great news. Perfect candidate for a restore like you do, and can be real useful once you finish. It's good that you don't feel rush and take your time. Not long ago I was stressed by having too many things to do and too little time, so I rushed most of the time and inevitably made mistakes or injured myself. So, I think you're doing it the right way.

Posted: **Sat Mar 04, 2023 8:53 pm**

Had a good day working on the old truck. Started out putting the last wheel back together. Went easy and I just put a couple of nuts on the axle just in case it had to come back off.

Then I moved back to the passenger side and pulled the axel back out and fixed my screw ups. I had the hub nut too loose and I forgot to tighten up the axel studs.

With that done it was time to start bleeding!
I tried to rig up a vacuum bleeder, it didn’t work.

Luckily my trusty assistant was available to pump the brakes for me, so we did it the old fashioned way.

I started at the vacuum booster and then worked my way around the truck furthest to closest wheel. It went faster than I expected. If you remember I installed all new lines and
hoses. I ended up with two leaks that I was able to take care of pretty easily. With the crappy flairs I made I’m calling that a win!

The work I’ve done so far appears to have paid off, we now have brakes!!! I’m figuring on blending them again just to make sure they’re good once I have the truck running again and can test drive it. And with that Herbie is back on his feet!

I sure made a mess on this job, time to take a break and clean up before I continue.

When you have tools all over and can’t find the wrench you’re looking for it’s time to clean up!
With that done it’s time to go after the carburetor.

I cleaned all the ports and reassembled. It was dirty, and the accelerate pump was frozen in place. I got it put back together and started adjusting but the stupid sheet that came with the kit is almost unreadable, had to take a picture of it and blow it up.

Naturally it doesn’t list this truck, and it doesn’t list my engine so I had to make a few guesses. We’ll see how it runs, I’ll have to do some tuning once it’s back on the truck.

That’s about the stopping point for today. Now that the brakes are back together I think the next step will be tackling the drive train starting with the engine.

Posted: **Sat Mar 04, 2023 9:47 pm**

You'll have a nice truck soon Jeff! What are your plans with the engine? What's it's compression like? Any idea?

Posted: **Sat Mar 04, 2023 10:24 pm**

Eugen wrote: ↑Sat Mar 04, 2023 9:47 pm You'll have a nice truck soon Jeff! What are your plans with the engine? What's it's compression like? Any idea?

The engine runs pretty good considering the ignition components all look bad and the carburetor was plugged up and had a hole in the float! I haven’t bothered with a compression test yet. The truck has been sitting so long it’s likely there are still some stuck rings. The plugs are really oil soaked.

This may also be from valve seals that I’m sure are hard as a brick, or both! I haven’t run the engine long enough to bring up to operating temperature yet, I think I’ll do that before I do a compression test. A little heat from running will hopefully loosen any stuck rings.

This is the first Ford Y- block I’ve worked on so I’m leaning as I go! I have read that these engines sometimes have a problem getting oil to the rockers.

The list so far is:
Get the carburetor back on, with manual choke, and auxiliary throttle attached.

Pull the valve covers and see if the top of the engine is getting oil, if not I may have to add an external oiling set up.

Check valve seals and replace if needed.

New valve cover gaskets and grommets.

Replace, points, distributor cap, wires, and plugs.

Make sure the thermostat is working.

It looks like the radiator has a small leak so I need to track that down.

Drop the oil pan to inspect the bottom of the engine, replace the pan gasket, and clean the sludge out of the bottom that I’m sure is in there. I don’t want a bunch of crap getting sucked into the pick up and in the engine if I can help it.

Then fire it up and see where we’re at!

Gee now that I look at the list I wish you hadn’t asked, I got a lot to do!

Posted: **Sat Mar 04, 2023 11:07 pm**

Oh no, I hope I didn't ruin your evening!

On the other hand, you seem to enjoy getting Herbie the truck in good shape! Plus, spring is almost there, think about those robins!

Posted: **Sun Mar 05, 2023 10:11 am**

Eugen wrote: ↑Sat Mar 04, 2023 11:07 pm Oh no, I hope I didn't ruin your evening! On the other hand, you seem to enjoy getting Herbie the truck in good shape! Plus, spring is almost there, think about those robins!

No worries Eugen, you didn’t ruin my evening. I hadn’t actually wrote that list down. Up until now it was just rolling around in my head! As I was writing, more things kept coming to mind! I do like working on Herbie, the robins remind me spring is coming and other projects will need to be worked on!

Posted: **Sun Mar 05, 2023 10:34 am**

@JSinMO - Great progress, and awesome photos - I have problems remembering to do before and after photos... It's great to see a record of your work.

When I don't have a helper to bleed the brakes I would fill the system with brake fluid, pump the pedal with the bleed screw open until I saw fluid come out, then close off the bleed screws, pump the brakes until they got hard, jam a stick between the driver's seat cushion and the brake pedal to hold the pedal down once it had pressure on it - then with the pedal locked in place go to the corner and crack the bleed screw to let the fluid/air out - repeat the process until the air was out and the brakes were firm or I got frustrated enough to get some help... (don't have young helpers around and :wife:

gets a little grumpy about getting dirty / greasy sometimes

)

Posted: **Sun Mar 05, 2023 11:05 am**

@RoamingGnome Thanks, I appreciate that!
I’m grateful son can help me for sure. I figured I needed a helper since the system was dry except for the master cylinder, I bench bled that. But it actually went pretty quick.
The problem is I let him go play then got in the truck to feel the pedal and it seems a bit soft to me so I’m thinking I’ll rebleed after I get it running again.

Posted: **Sun Mar 05, 2023 9:47 pm**

Probably 30 years ago i picked up a pressurized brake bleeder with a variety of master cylinder adapters, at an auction for cheap. Yah it is one of those tools I don't use often, but is a great tool to have. It looks something like this.

Gordy

Posted: **Sat Mar 11, 2023 10:20 pm**

Got to spend some time in the shop this afternoon and made a little more progress on Herbie.

It seemed to me that the brake pedal was a little low. I figured I had the rear brake shoes about right, but thought I should double check the fronts. I adjusted them up I little more, and now I have a nice firm pedal! Last thing to do is a test drive when I have the rest of the work done and make sure they function. I’m not anticipating issues, but you never know.

I have the carburetor put back together and the intake cleaned up, so I mounted it back on the engine. The P.O. Had the choke on the carburetor bypassed and was using a manual choke cable on the dashboard. I have no problem with that so I hooked it back up that way.

I was going to fill the bowl by running gas down the vent tube, but I couldn’t find a bottle that would work without spilling gas all over so I just cranked the engine over to fill it up. I guess the battery was down because that little bit of cranking drained it.
It’s been quite some time since I had a vehicle with the battery mounted under the floor board!

With the battery charged up I hopped into the driver’s seat, set the choke, pumped the gas 4 times, and hit the key. The truck fired up immediately!

Now the accelerate pump work great, no hesitation. If you remember the adjustment chart that came with the carburetor kit didn’t list the set up for this engine, so I had to guess. I think I got really lucky, it seems all I need to do is idle it up just a little bit!

I thought I’d try to hook up the auxiliary throttle cable. I cleaned up the bolt hole in the intake and found a piece of steel in my scrap pile to make a bracket out of.

I know this is cobbled together, but I think it will work.

I just need to come up with a connection for the cable and wire I have vice gripped together in the picture.
I have it in my mind what I want to do, but I can’t think of what the hardware is called to able to look it up.
Im thinking of a brass barrel with a set screw in the side of it. Ive used them in the past. Do any of you know what I’m talking about? Or do you have another idea?

There’s todays old truck ramble, thank you for the help!

Posted: **Sun Mar 12, 2023 12:35 am**

Wish I could help but I don't really understand what needs to be done. To lock two wires together? Crimping maybe not strong enough. A copper pipe over it and then nut and bolt?

Posted: **Sun Mar 12, 2023 10:04 am**

Eugen wrote: ↑Sun Mar 12, 2023 12:35 am Wish I could help but I don't really understand what needs to be done. To lock two wires together? Crimping maybe not strong enough. A copper pipe over it and then nut and bolt?

Sorry, I know I’m not explaining this well. Yes essentially I’m trying to hook two solid wires together. I can picture it in my head, but I’m having trouble putting into words! I’ll try to take a better picture, that may help.

Posted: **Sun Mar 12, 2023 10:38 am**

@JSinMO

Move your cable back some and go with a ball chain like what is on the crapper flapper .

Posted: **Sun Mar 12, 2023 3:49 pm**

@JSinMO If you have the space and are trying to connect two cables you might be able to use a SetScrew style Marr wire connector - to tie them together... electrical dept at your local hardware store...

: SetScrew Mar.jpg (57.49 KiB) Viewed 5396 times

Wow - How did this picture end up being so big?

Posted: **Sun Mar 12, 2023 3:56 pm**

JSinMO wrote: ↑Sat Mar 11, 2023 10:20 pm Got to spend some time in the shop this afternoon and made a little more progress on Herbie.

It seemed to me that the brake pedal was a little low. I figured I had the rear brake shoes about right, but thought I should double check the fronts. I adjusted them up I little more, and now I have a nice firm pedal! Last thing to do is a test drive when I have the rest of the work done and make sure they function. I’m not anticipating issues, but you never know.

I have the carburetor put back together and the intake cleaned up, so I mounted it back on the engine. The P.O. Had the choke on the carburetor bypassed and was using a manual choke cable on the dashboard. I have no problem with that so I hooked it back up that way.
0D361359-AFF5-4433-8FEB-1EBB8B0F948A.jpeg

I was going to fill the bowl by running gas down the vent tube, but I couldn’t find a bottle that would work without spilling gas all over so I just cranked the engine over to fill it up. I guess the battery was down because that little bit of cranking drained it.
It’s been quite some time since I had a vehicle with the battery mounted under the floor board!

BA8357C0-2EDC-45B3-98B9-B81E37484B5A.jpeg

With the battery charged up I hopped into the driver’s seat, set the choke, pumped the gas 4 times, and hit the key. The truck fired up immediately!

Now the accelerate pump work great, no hesitation. If you remember the adjustment chart that came with the carburetor kit didn’t list the set up for this engine, so I had to guess. I think I got really lucky, it seems all I need to do is idle it up just a little bit!

I thought I’d try to hook up the auxiliary throttle cable. I cleaned up the bolt hole in the intake and found a piece of steel in my scrap pile to make a bracket out of.

I know this is cobbled together, but I think it will work.
22C76A59-F19D-48D6-ADA4-3E06DFF9E862.jpeg

I just need to come up with a connection for the cable and wire I have vice gripped together in the picture.
I have it in my mind what I want to do, but I can’t think of what the hardware is called to able to look it up.
Im thinking of a brass barrel with a set screw in the side of it. Ive used them in the past. Do any of you know what I’m talking about? Or do you have another idea?

There’s todays old truck ramble, thank you for the help!

With what you have rigged up with the vise grips, does this allow normal movement of the gas pedal, except when the cable is locked back of coarse? If not go with the chain connection.

Gordy

Posted: **Sun Mar 12, 2023 5:37 pm**

Thanks guys! With the way I have it rigged the normal throttle has full movement, and this won’t affect it unless I engage it. I found these shaft collars and I’m going to give them a shot. Kind of similar to what Gerry suggested. If it won’t hold I’ll probably have to reconfigure my cable and try the chain like Dave and Gordy suggested.
I’ll try to get a better picture next time I’m in the shop.

Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

1961 Ford F500 project.

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