Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

@Gordy , @RoamingGnome Thanks guys! I’ll probably give it shot tomorrow. I called Chuck over at Chucks Trucks this afternoon he has the front wheel cylinders at a reasonable price, I couldn’t find them locally so I’m not going to mess with the old ones. They have Ford part numbers stamped in them so I’m guessing there the originals. I have to call him in the morning to give him measurements for the drum seals, so hopefully the last of the brake parts will be in the way shortly.

I typically take a screwdriver to the outside edge of the seal where it meets the hub. A few drives of the hammer and it will push the seal in 1/8" there. Then you can pop it out opposite edge with the seal puller. I do this method when they are stuck.

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Made a little more progress today!
I used a little heat and two self tapping screws and walked the old seal out! I feel like I should have thought of that, but then again I never said I was the sharpest knife in the drawer!
Thanks again guys, it’s so nice to be able to come here for help!

I also assembled the two rear wheel cylinders and installed them back on the truck, and cleaned up the drum and painted it.
So now I wait for parts to come in. I have 2 front wheel cylinders, 2 rear drum seals, and 2 axel gaskets that hopefully can be order on Monday and arrive by next weekend.
I’m excited for the parts to come, I might actually finally have working brakes!

You're unstoppable Jeff! Nice progress! Keep it coming!

Here’s todays truck ramble.
Since I’m waiting for parts to finish up the brakes I thought I’d start the engine tune up beginning with this. The truck runs but it definitely has fuel delivery issues. So I pulled the carburetor off the truck and tore it down to rebuild. I had purchased a rebuild kit for this awhile back and sure enough it’s not the right one crap!

And the float has a hole in it so I’ll try to source one since I’m not finding the hole crap!

Oh well I’ll move on the the electrical system. I replaced the plugs and the old one were pretty much as expected. Fouled with pretty obvious valve seal leaks. I don’t think im going to worry about that for now. I think I’ll see how long it takes to foul the new plugs before I get worked up about it. Moved on the replacing the plug wires since the ones in the truck are pretty crusty. Here too I bought a set awhile back…
Yup they’re way to short crap!

Ok I might as well take a look at the points while I’m here.
Pulled the distributor cap off and yep it looks terrible, so does the rotor crap! That ones my fault, I should have figured on that. So now im at a stand still till parts come in, and that’s not really a bad thing, kind of the way these projects go unless you’re impatient like me!

On a side note this truck is equipped with a high idle cable that runs to the dash board. I think the idea is you can pull the cable to set the engine speed up some when you’re stopped and running the bed hoist. Is not connected to the carburetor and I’m not seeing where it goes. Anybody have experience with where it goes? It’s the cable laying by the valve cover in the first picture. Here’s what it looks like in the cab. Thank you guys for following along with Herbie!

I’m just guessing here Jeff. But I wonder if it goes to the fast idle cam an the choke linkage. ? Just guessing.

Noel

If the way back machine in my head is working See the red in the picture there should be a bracket mounted in those holes to mount the bracket on the cable to. The blue circle is were a chain was held on with a C clip, the other end of chain was mounted to the core of the cable. The chain I remember was the big brother of the little ball chain found on old finger nail clippers.

There could be other designs of coarse and your long cable core makes me think yours may have been different, but in the picture I don't see any holes where the cable core could slide through. But it has to be free floating and non binding as to not interfere with normal foot pedal operation, but you probably knew that


Gordy

I got another guess. The cable is hooked to a flat bar or rod poivts. This flat bar or rod hits on the front side of the throttle linkage, when you pull the cable the flat bar or rod pushes on the throttle linkage and opens the throttle. And you lock it where you want on the cab with the throttle knob. When released it would have no interference with the operate of the gas pedal. Just a guess.


Noel

@propane1 , @Gordy Thank you guys that helps!

Gordy, I wish I could say “well of course it has to free float”, but the truth is I hadn’t thought of it till now!
As soon as I read your post it came back to me. I can remember the chain set up you’re talking about, but it’s literally hurting my head trying to remember the details! and as you said this may have been different.
Either way I’m missing parts to it.
Noel im thinking your idea may be closer to how this was set up. I’ll have to wait till I get the carburetor back on the engine but I think I can make that work. It may be a bit cobbled as seriously doubt those parts are readily available.

Another example once again that we have some of the most knowledgeable, helpful people around! I appreciate it guys!

My brain hurts just trying to follow the discussion you guys keep going, it's like I'm watching star trek, don't understand it but I like it!