1961 Ford F500 project.

[JSinMO]

I’m in the shop today trying to get to the wheel cylinders to see how bad it is. Just to recap I have replaced the master cylinder, hydoboost vacuum booster, and all brake lines and hoses so wheel cylinders are basically the last components to go through on the brake system.

I alway get a little nervous when I crib something up to work on. These first two pictures are of my setup. If you see something I should do differently to be more safe please, please point it out.

I have the truck in gear with the brake set, wheels chocked, 1 floor jack, 1 bottle jack, and 1 jack stand at each wheel.

So far I’ve got the front wheel cylinder off and I’m glad I didn’t try to pressurize the system. It’s stuck and it’s a ball of rust

I’ve got it soaking, but it doesn’t look promising. I was hoping to rebuild these since availability of new one are getting kinda scarce, but even if I get the piston out I’m not sure I’ll have anything to work with.

I’m moving to the he back now. I know some of you guys probably have more experience with free float axles than I
do, just wondering if you have a trick to get the cones loose to slide the axel out?

Any tips, suggestions, or comments are sure welcome and appreciated!

[DavidBarkey]

@JSinMO loosen all the nuts off but leave them on a few turns so you do not have to chase the cones . brass drift or hammer and hit the side of the axle flange in a rotating manner until the come loose . Have a catch pan under it so less to clean up after .
Have fun .

[Eugen]

I always felt unsafe with those jacks under the car, what if there's a small earthquake? I use some thick pieces of ash, just thicker than me, just roll them under. I figure if anything happens the car can't fall lower than the logs.

[JSinMO]

It’s been kind of an exciting afternoon!
@DavidBarkey your advice was perfect, some rapping on and around the axle flange and they all popped out! Thank you! I removed the axel and wrapped the splines in bubble wrap so they don’t get dinged up. I got the brake drum off and cleaned up a little, then removed the 2 wheel cylinder off the back. They were both stuck, but I got them apart pretty easily. I stared to clean them up, and I am thinking these may be able to be rebuilt! The dust boots on the outside and rubber cups on the inside aren’t dry rotted or split and they’re still pliable! I still have a lot of clean up and checking but these may work fine! The front one though, it’s still stuck not sure if it’s gonna come loose.

I had pictures to add but for some reason they won’t upload this evening. If I can I’ll add them later.

@Eugen i here you, I never feel safe enough. I think it’s good I just didn’t like having my jack stands and bottle jacks so spaced out. I tried shaking the truck before I started and it wouldn’t budge. You could probably have a dance party on the bed and it would be fine, but I’m not gonna try!

Pictures are loading now so I’ll try to add them in order.

[Gordy]

It’s been kind of an exciting afternoon!
@DavidBarkey your advice was perfect, some rapping on and around the axle flange and they all popped out! Thank you! I removed the axel and wrapped the splines in bubble wrap so they don’t get dinged up. I got the brake drum off and cleaned up a little, then removed the 2 wheel cylinder off the back. They were both stuck, but I got them apart pretty easily. I stared to clean them up, and I am thinking these may be able to be rebuilt! The dust boots on the outside and rubber cups on the inside aren’t dry rotted or split and they’re still pliable! I still have a lot of clean up and checking but these may work fine! The front one though, it’s still stuck not sure if it’s gonna come loose.

I had pictures to add but for some reason they won’t upload this evening. If I can I’ll add them later.

@Eugen i here you, I never feel safe enough. I think it’s good I just didn’t like having my jack stands and bottle jacks so spaced out. I tried shaking the truck before I started and it wouldn’t budge. You could probably have a dance party on the bed and it would be fine, but I’m not gonna try!

I don't have jack stands, but I do have a bunch of lumber, 6x6 4x4 2x4. I start with the 6x6's 2 wide, then 2 4x4's and 2x4's. Always alternate each layer N-S and E-W

With the stuck brake cylinder. I found out the hard way, the first thing to do is see if you can get the bleeder out. If they snap off they are a Royal PITA to get out without wrecking the threads in the cylinder. If that will loosen up, buy or make an adapter to screw into the hole for the brake line and the other end needs to be threaded for a grease zerk. A grease gun with the long handle should provide enough pressure to get one of the pistons out. Then use a large wooden dowel to drive the other piston out. The dowel should just barely fit in the cylinder to apply the force to the pistons skirt, too small and you run the risk of knocking a hole in the center of the piston.


Gordy

[JSinMO]

@Gordy Thank you for the tips! I was able to get the rear cylinders apart without much trouble, but the fronts are a single piston design so it’s only coming out one way! Great idea using grease to move the piston. I’ll have to dig around the empire of dirt and see if I can come up with some fittings. Thank you!

[DavidBarkey]

quote
The front one though, it’s still stuck not sure if it’s gonna come loose.
@JSinMO Pull the dust cover off and immerse it in brake fluid . Do not use diesel fuel or penetrates as it will damage the seal inside . Use a tin can just big enough to fit it in . put that can it another can /pot of hot water . Do not try to heat the brake fluid with a flame , but you can put the pot of water on a hot plate to keep it warm . This will help loosen things up from both sides . when using a grease gun to separate the cylinder use only synthetic grease , petroleum will damage the seal .

[JSinMO]

I spent some time this evening fiddling around the shop.

I haven’t tried to get getting the front caliper loose yet but I cleaned it up and I can see some numbers on it. I’m going to see if I can find replacements. I also need new seals on the rear drums.

I fought with that thing for 2 hours and I still don’t have it out. I’ve started to cut it out with a cold chisel, don’t know what else to do. I’ve pretty well mangled it at this point. I wouldn’t care except I at least need some of it intact to size a new one since I don’t see any numbers on it. I give up for tonight, time to go in and get cleaned up!

[Gordy]

I spent some time this evening fiddling around the shop.
B4BD36C7-32D1-4925-B38F-E0F26CFFCDED.jpeg

I haven’t tried to get getting the front caliper loose yet but I cleaned it up and I can see some numbers on it. I’m going to see if I can find replacements. I also need new seals on the rear drums. EFCD4BE1-1446-48CF-BF8C-CFD9E917E423.jpeg
I fought with that thing for 2 hours and I still don’t have it out. I’ve started to cut it out with a cold chisel, don’t know what else to do. I’ve pretty well mangled it at this point. I wouldn’t care except I at least need some of it intact to size a new one since I don’t see any numbers on it. I give up for tonight, time to go in and get cleaned up!

Seal pullers are not used often, but handy as hell when you need them. There are a few different styles, this is one I have. On a bigger seal like that I have had to use some cribbing (2, 1/4" key stock) on the casting next to the seal, with some flat stock across them, to make clearance for the seal to start lifting out.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools ... lsrc=aw.ds

Another thing that worked for me. I have a slide hammer with a tip that excepts a sheet metal screw. Drill a couple holes in the seal close to the outer edge 180 degrees apart, and insert the self tapping screw. Then tug the seal out with the slide hammer. lacking a slide hammer a claw hammer should work.


Gordy

[RoamingGnome]

x2 for the self tapping screw and prybar/crowbar/clawhammer suggestion... bonus trick for drilling the hole is to put a small blob of grease on seal and drill your pilot hole through the grease blob - the grease will hold all the swarf (chips) so they are easier to clean up and less likely to go into the bearing behind the seal.