Epoxy primer or not?
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Epoxy primer or not?
So, I have a stripped down 1987 that has been sitting in my basement as I draw the parts, sand blast the parts and get them ready for painting. The parts are now clean and will be washed using paint thinner and left to dry. A few years ago I bought a "painting tent" from a store in Buffalo, NY and it has sat unused in my garage ready for this year. I am very aware of the toxic fumes when using epoxy. So here's my questions:
Other than painting outside with a high end power face mask what other precautions should I take? Anyone got any recommendations for the primer manufacturer?, What thinners could I/should I use if any? Should the primer be sanded after application, etc. I have access to a couple of spay guns from Harbor Freight will they be adequate for the job and what HP compressor should I be using for a professional job? I think you have got the message from my questions.. I am less than an amateur here guys. Even though Harry has volunteered to help (thanks Harry) I like to also know a little about what i am doing too (yeah I am a Brit by birth so I can get annoying with my questions - just ask Harry if you doubt that
Other than painting outside with a high end power face mask what other precautions should I take? Anyone got any recommendations for the primer manufacturer?, What thinners could I/should I use if any? Should the primer be sanded after application, etc. I have access to a couple of spay guns from Harbor Freight will they be adequate for the job and what HP compressor should I be using for a professional job? I think you have got the message from my questions.. I am less than an amateur here guys. Even though Harry has volunteered to help (thanks Harry) I like to also know a little about what i am doing too (yeah I am a Brit by birth so I can get annoying with my questions - just ask Harry if you doubt that
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Re: Epoxy primer or not?
I believe you mentioned you have purchased the paint. I purchased paint from the Case dealer in the Batavia area and was very satisfied with the gloss from it. They even had the hardener for the paint there.
When I have painted in the past on cars, vans and motorcycles, I would always purchase everything I need from the same paint store. To spray the pressure for the gun is not that high you just need enough volume to keep the gun going and not have to wait for pressure to build back up. A large tank on the compressor is a good thing.
Sanding between primer and paint is recommended for a smoother surface and wiped off with a tack rag, to remove any dust. Sometimes you may get a run in the paint and those need to be sanded out after drying and repainted. I have found painting is like welding. In welding while watching the molten puddle you move the welding rod or gun to keep the puddle the same size. In painting you watch the shine being created by the wet paint and keep the gun moving to keep the shine being applied.
A good respirator for that epoxy paint is a great idea. When epoxy paint came out, Dupont had paint called Imron which was excellent. I painted a van and a motorcycle with it. I had to repaint the motorcycle tank many times to get the flames and metal flake on the way I wanted it. A tank is a small thing to paint so I just used a mist respirator to complete the job. The next day my chest hurt when I took a deep breath, but it went away the following day. I figured how bad could it be after breathing all the welding fumes over the years. Back in the 70's welders didn't usually wear respirators.
Ray if you have any other questions fire away.
Keep the Peace
Harry
When I have painted in the past on cars, vans and motorcycles, I would always purchase everything I need from the same paint store. To spray the pressure for the gun is not that high you just need enough volume to keep the gun going and not have to wait for pressure to build back up. A large tank on the compressor is a good thing.
Sanding between primer and paint is recommended for a smoother surface and wiped off with a tack rag, to remove any dust. Sometimes you may get a run in the paint and those need to be sanded out after drying and repainted. I have found painting is like welding. In welding while watching the molten puddle you move the welding rod or gun to keep the puddle the same size. In painting you watch the shine being created by the wet paint and keep the gun moving to keep the shine being applied.
A good respirator for that epoxy paint is a great idea. When epoxy paint came out, Dupont had paint called Imron which was excellent. I painted a van and a motorcycle with it. I had to repaint the motorcycle tank many times to get the flames and metal flake on the way I wanted it. A tank is a small thing to paint so I just used a mist respirator to complete the job. The next day my chest hurt when I took a deep breath, but it went away the following day. I figured how bad could it be after breathing all the welding fumes over the years. Back in the 70's welders didn't usually wear respirators.
Ray if you have any other questions fire away.
Keep the Peace
Harry
1973 444, 1974 644, 1976 446, 1977 646, 1986 226
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Re: Epoxy primer or not?
Hi Harry, yes I bought Power Red from a Case agent but several years ago and its sat on the shelf in my unheated garage since then UN-opened. Not sure about the hardener. My question though is does the paint have a shelf life when kept UN-opened?
Ray
Ray
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Re: Epoxy primer or not?
In my opinion the paint in an unopened container for a few years is usually good, it may need to be thinned if it appears to be thick after stirring. Sometimes I have seen a spray gun comes with a cone shaped dipper to determine the paint thinness. It has a hole in it and when the paint will come out of the cone through the hole it is the right consistency.
Keep the Peace
Harry
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Harry
1973 444, 1974 644, 1976 446, 1977 646, 1986 226
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Re: Epoxy primer or not?
Harry , your chest hurt due to Iso-cyanide poisoning . It is in the hardener in high amounts in Imron . That is the worst chemical in a body shop . All hardeners have it in some level .Harry wrote: ↑Mon May 09, 2022 8:03 am I believe you mentioned you have purchased the paint. I purchased paint from the Case dealer in the Batavia area and was very satisfied with the gloss from it. They even had the hardener for the paint there.
When I have painted in the past on cars, vans and motorcycles, I would always purchase everything I need from the same paint store. To spray the pressure for the gun is not that high you just need enough volume to keep the gun going and not have to wait for pressure to build back up. A large tank on the compressor is a good thing.
Sanding between primer and paint is recommended for a smoother surface and wiped off with a tack rag, to remove any dust. Sometimes you may get a run in the paint and those need to be sanded out after drying and repainted. I have found painting is like welding. In welding while watching the molten puddle you move the welding rod or gun to keep the puddle the same size. In painting you watch the shine being created by the wet paint and keep the gun moving to keep the shine being applied.
A good respirator for that epoxy paint is a great idea. When epoxy paint came out, Dupont had paint called Imron which was excellent. I painted a van and a motorcycle with it. I had to repaint the motorcycle tank many times to get the flames and metal flake on the way I wanted it. A tank is a small thing to paint so I just used a mist respirator to complete the job. The next day my chest hurt when I took a deep breath, but it went away the following day. I figured how bad could it be after breathing all the welding fumes over the years. Back in the 70's welders didn't usually wear respirators.
Ray if you have any other questions fire away.
Keep the Peace
Harry
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- Harry
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Re: Epoxy primer or not?
I always use a proper respirator when painting, welding and grinding now. When your young you don't think about your health as much as when you get over the hill. We all have done stupid things when we were young. Maybe we should start a post the " the stupidest thing I've ever done."
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Harry
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Harry
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- DavidBarkey
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Re: Epoxy primer or not?
I learn about that stuff when I was a lot younger and working in autobody. Stupid is as stupid does and health issues because of it drove me out of the trade . Like you Harry I value what I learned but am a lot more carefull these days . Of all the dumb stuff I have done over the years , it would take a week to sort through them all . There is a lot of contenders for "The dumbest" .Harry wrote: ↑Tue May 10, 2022 7:31 am I always use a proper respirator when painting, welding and grinding now. When your young you don't think about your health as much as when you get over the hill. We all have done stupid things when we were young. Maybe we should start a post the " the stupidest thing I've ever done."
Keep the Peace
Harry
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Re: Epoxy primer or not?
So guys, I think we all know the reasons - environmental/health related, etc. So what is the verdict? Does it help? If so what type/make/brand have people used and they would recommend?
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Re: Epoxy primer or not?
My 2 cents worth .
First nothing sticks well to smooth metal , period . When ever I can I sand blast even clean metal . When I can't I sand with a DA and" for metal sand paper " or acid etch .
2 part (epoxy) primer or baked on have far better stickum than air dry . Same goes for paint .
Another method is to cause the surface to rust slightly and then phosphoric acid product to it . Rusting etches the surface and the phosphoric acid compounds usually have a polymer in it that after neutralizing the rust creates a primed surface . and then paint .
Now , all paint and primers I know of that have a hardener , the hardener contains Iso-Cyanide . So this stuff needs to be used with caution and proper safety in place .
What to chose depends on you circumstances .
You may keep the change .
Dave
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