loader build resumes!

Utility blade, snow caster, mower deck, weights, sleeve hitch, 3pt hitch, front end loader, backhoe, and more. Ready made or homemade.
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Eugen Canada
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Re: loader build resumes!

Post by Eugen »

Now it's clear, thank you for this!
Case 224, 444, 644, 680E
Kubota B26 :blush:
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thebuildist United States of America
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Re: loader build resumes!

Post by thebuildist »

Looks like I can check my bucket off of my bucket list...
:rofl: :rofl:
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Bob
"Never be afraid to try something new. How hard can it be?"
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Eugen Canada
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Re: loader build resumes!

Post by Eugen »

Quite amazing how fast you get things done once you delve into it! Very nice! I think you have so far the best diy loader for a garden tractor that I've seen anywhere on the web. Congrats Bob, you're going to be star among us tractor nuts! :thumbsup:
Case 224, 444, 644, 680E
Kubota B26 :blush:
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thebuildist United States of America
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Re: loader build resumes!

Post by thebuildist »

Thank you, Eugen!

I think that's the nicest thing anyone has ever said to me!

:78:

Bob
"Never be afraid to try something new. How hard can it be?"
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Re: loader build resumes!

Post by JSinMO »

Eugen wrote: Fri Jul 22, 2022 3:38 pm Quite amazing how fast you get things done once you delve into it! Very nice! I think you have so far the best diy loader for a garden tractor that I've seen anywhere on the web. Congrats Bob, you're going to be star among us tractor nuts! :thumbsup:
I agree!! Can’t wait to see pictures of your creation at work!
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Re: loader build resumes!

Post by thebuildist »

Today I calculate and create the counterweight.

But here's a look at how the quick-attach works.

https://youtu.be/dJcoP_i3bfo

One big job in front of me is figuring out how to compile the hydraulic build process into a coherent video. Up to this point I've simply filmed as I went and assembled the first 4 videos within a week or two of their actual work. It was very straightforward.

But the hydraulic process began (and failed) back in... October? And as everyone here knows, it has come through multiple attempts and iterations before it succeeded. I'm undecided as to how to portray that in a video.

I've been making the videos to provide to the average person an overview of the journey. Not really a "howto" but more like, "If you wanted to try this yourself, here's the kinds of things you'll encounter along the way." And that applies for any kind of garden tractor. But for the hydraulic phase of the work, what I experienced really only applies to Case/Ingersoll machines, and PS models in particular.

So I'm thinking that video 5 will be more of a "guided tour" than a "watch me work" kind of video.

Anyway, I've got to get that figured out next.

But not today. Today I "make counterweight while the sun shines."

:thumbsup:

Bob
"Never be afraid to try something new. How hard can it be?"
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Re: loader build resumes!

Post by thebuildist »

Well, I was surprised. And a little puzzled. But I think I have it licked.

I bought 11 bags, 60 lbs each of concrete. I figured I'd need more or less 500 lbs to build the counterweight, and I'd use the rest on a slab I need to pour.

The slab pour is waiting on the loader, oddly enough.

I figured the tipping point would be around 400 lbs, which is to say, "With 400 lbs at the lip of the bucket, the back wheels will come up in the air."

So I loaded up 8 bags. And the bucket came up, and the back wheels didn't.
So I loaded all 11 bags. Same thing.

So I scrounged around and found a 20lb bag of lime, a 40 lb bag of mortar mix, and what turned out to be 80 lbs of cast steel bucket teeth, and stacked all of them on top of the concrete. precisely 799 lbs.

And the bucket came up, and the back wheels didn't.

So I got off the machine and walked around back and lifted up on the 3pt bar. And with my official guesstimate of 65lbs of lift, the back wheels stubbornly rose into the air.

So I'm using that figure.

Some long calculation later, I came to this conclusion: "To keep 400lbs downforce on the back wheels while carrying 1000lbs at the lip of the bucket, I need a 621 lb. counterweight hanging from the 3pt. lift arms."

Concrete weighs 150lbs per cubic feet, so I need a 4.15 cubic foot counterweight.

Like so:
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Opinion question: This is larger than I had anticipated, and I've thought about making it the same footprint size, but only... 18" high instead of 24.5". That would give me the option to try out the performance of a smaller weight first, but leave me the option to add another 6" of height to it later if I need to.

What is everyone's advice? Make it full size the first go-around, or make it a little smaller and see how it does?

Bob
"Never be afraid to try something new. How hard can it be?"
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Re: loader build resumes!

Post by Timj »

I don't think there is an answer in here, maybe more questions, maybe I'm just thinking out loud.

Would there be a benefit to you to have a two piece counterweight? Less weight for average use, and an add on for when you get serious.
Pro- less weight on tractor when not needed
Con- may be a bigger pia than it's worth handling the add on piece?


Another thought that I think applies is the change in tractor balance when turning sharp. I don't know if those with the 64x tractors notice this or not. I really notice it on our compact tractor when using the loader. I've been going to add more weight to the rear and see if helps. I get so use to running the full size TLB that's pretty planted to the ground, I've had a few hair raising experiences when I get zooming around with that smaller, short wheel base tractor.
:geek: Tim
:446cart: let's go, it's finally time to blow. :peace:
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Re: loader build resumes!

Post by JSinMO »

I think Tim’s idea of a 2 piece counterweight has good merit and should be considered. I know that there is a weight and balance point difference from your tractor to the 648, but I can tell you with a fixed rear weight of 800 LBS in the backhoe the front wheels could easily spend more time off the ground than on it when driving with nothing in the bucket even with the 500 LBS counterweight under the front. I almost never put the tractor in high gear for that reason.
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I really have to watch it even in low gear the front will really float on rough ground or inclines.

So to me the question is how often will there be 1000LBS on the edge of the bucket? As opposed to a lighter weight filling the bucket. I think you will really notice that 600 LBS weight back there when your just moving around with no load or light to average loads in the bucket.
I would think a 2 piece weigh design would help this.

In my case I have started to think about taking the backhoe off the tractor when I don’t need it so the tractor is more stable.
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Re: loader build resumes!

Post by thebuildist »

I appreciate the feedback, and that's kind of the same way I'm thinking. I hadn't really thought of an official two-piece design, and that's a great idea. A smaller weight for general work, the full monty for heavy work. I did have a sense that I might not enjoy all 600lbs following me around every time I need the loader for anything.

I think I'll look at it with an eye towards easy handling: a way that I can have multiple counterweight options without hurting my back.

It might be that I just build two different weights, a big one and a little one. But I'll do some figuring and thinking along those lines.

Thank you, gentlemen!

Bob
"Never be afraid to try something new. How hard can it be?"
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