Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

Pulling out the auger revealed on one side the wrong bearing type and on the other a very worn off bearing.



Clearly new bearings are needed. A package arrived yesterday with these inside



I've been following the snowcaster mod thread. Much as I'd like to modify the chain tension mechanism as you guys suggested, a project like that can't be accommodated at the moment.

I must say, Case Ingersoll using all these non-standard bearings reminds me of Apple and their proprietary connection ports over the years. Don't shoot!

JD is worse.
Dave

Had a little time the other day and thought I go install the new bearings.




Oops! My bearing shrank?! When I had another look around I found out that these bearings need a sleeve! The bearings that don't need the sleeve are the RX-84! ok fine, let's not panic. Unfortunately, one sleeve costs around $70US, plus shipping and brokerage. How's that for fun?

Thought I might as well order the RX-84 and call it a day. But then the nice Fafnir 204KRR2 that I got are just wasted, and that bothers me. On top of that the one vendor that I wanted to get the RX-84 from does not carry them.

Plan B. Turn a sleeve on the lathe. Hm.. but I don't have pipe or rod stock that size: 2-1/8 OD and 1.86" ID. Then I thought, why don't I use the outer race of the old bearing. All I need is to take some material off the interior side. You should see the sparks flying on the lathe. That bearing race is hardened steel!

Fine! What does to soften steel?




Yep. That bearing race was a pleasure to bring to size on the lathe after it got cold.




Problem solved.

Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Oct 22, 2021 11:20 pm Had a little time the other day and thought I go install the new bearings.



8350F689-9CF0-4FA0-BE87-7CAC6266CB13.jpeg



Oops! My bearing shrank?! When I had another look around I found out that these bearings need a sleeve! The bearings that don't need the sleeve are the RX-84! ok fine, let's not panic. Unfortunately, one sleeve costs around $70US, plus shipping and brokerage. How's that for fun?

Thought I might as well order the RX-84 and call it a day. But then the nice Fafnir 204KRR2 that I got are just wasted, and that bothers me. On top of that the one vendor that I wanted to get the RX-84 from does not carry them.

Plan B. Turn a sleeve on the lathe. Hm.. but I don't have pipe or rod stock that size: 2-1/8 OD and 1.86" ID. Then I thought, why don't I use the outer race of the old bearing. All I need is to take some material off the interior side. You should see the sparks flying on the lathe. That bearing race is hardened steel!

Fine! What does to soften steel?



8249EB63-13B9-4CE0-BCD4-5C9F2284DD30.jpeg



Yep. That bearing race was a pleasure to bring to size on the lathe after it got cold.



000C0D42-2665-4F97-8C92-11F6D043DE09.jpeg



Problem solved.

Necessity is the mother of invention, adaptation , and new swear words .

Dave

It seem that both Dave and I are doing a snow caster refresh/rebuild. Mine is functional with the old bearings but loud like crazy. From the little investigation I did so far, it seems that these are the bearings for my old (70s) snow caster.

Auger bearing: type RX84.


This bearing is also known as:
ZORO: G3800161
Roberts: RX68
Case: C29265
Case: C29264
Airens: 054111

DIMENSIONS:
BORE: 11/16" Hex
O.D. Outside Flange of 2.25" and Outside of Bearing Surface of 2.125"
IR Width: 0.80"
OR Width: 0.625"

One can also use the Fafnir 204KRR2 bearings with 47mm OD, but it needs a sleeve because the auger ID is about 54mm.


Jackshaft bearings. Seems to me the original have the Fafnir 42LST flangettes, indicating a bearing with 42mm OD. I could not find any bearing like that. It also seems that this kit is what our Case parts vendors are selling to replace the original. The kit seems to have the 47MST flangettes, which are (surprise! ) housing a 47mm bearing, the SA204-12. Here's the link to one of the vendors kit, which even includes instructions on how to "make the hole bigger!" cool

https://www.caseingersollparts.com/stor ... SHAFT.html

Here are dimensions for something like this from a different online source.



It's the line for 3/4 ID that we're interested in. Shows it's using the 47MST flangette/housing. And the SB204-12 bearing. Don't know the difference between the SA204-12 and SB204-12 bearings.

the difference between the SA204-12 and SB204-12

is the SA has locking collar and SB has set screws . The same number with a C in front of it is cylindrical not self aligning.


Dave

Thanks @DavidBarkey , but I don't get what locking collar is. I think set screws are just a couple of screws that fixes the collar to the shaft.

Eugen wrote: ↑Thu Dec 16, 2021 7:42 am Thanks @DavidBarkey , but I don't get what locking collar is. I think set screws are just a couple of screws that fixes the collar to the shaft.

<img src="http://news.bearingnet.net/wp-content/u ... stic-4.jpg" alt="PTI fantastic 4"/> The four most common types and how the work .

Dave

Never mind, I found examples of locking collar bearings. They lock with a mechanism that isn't as likely to damage the shaft like set screws.

Eugen wrote: ↑Thu Dec 16, 2021 7:58 am Never mind, I found examples of locking collar bearings. They lock with a mechanism that isn't as likely to damage the shaft like set screws.

I like to file flats on the shaft where the set screws touch . Plus they don't need to be to tight , just enough to keep it from slipping on the shaft .

Dave

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Dec 16, 2021 10:14 am

Eugen wrote: ↑Thu Dec 16, 2021 7:58 am Never mind, I found examples of locking collar bearings. They lock with a mechanism that isn't as likely to damage the shaft like set screws.

I like to file flats on the shaft where the set screws touch . Plus they don't need to be to tight , just enough to keep it from slipping on the shaft .

Dave

With a drop of thread locker on the threads of the set screw.

Keep the Peace
Harry

The time to replace bearings will come soon. The Sa204-12 arrived today. One screw goes all the way through the collar. Then there's a hole in the collar that only goes part way through, coming from the outside. A little confused


Some more reading required

It doesn't take too long to find out that this type of collar is an excentric locking type. Installation instructions found online say that the collar locks in by turning, after which it gets set by punching in the blank hole in the direction of shaft rotation. Last step is to tighten the set screw.

I'll try that.

I couldn't figure out how the collar gets tightened on the shaft because the collar rotates freely around the inner race of the bearing. Until I looked more carefully at it. Iit's called excentric because, guess what?! - it is!


Look at the thickness of the inner race and collar recess around the circle. Now I see how it gets tight on the shaft when the collar rotates around the bearing race.

This is the correct tool for the job . The pin goes in that half drilled hole . But a punch works too , just not as nicely and gives you a reason to get out the hammer .

Dave

And if you want to buy one, it's called a "pin wrench".

Bob

I do not want to buy a pin wrench Sam I am.

But thank you

Bob, I found a pile of pin and hock wrenches at a garage sale. They are the best when removing parts that were over tightened and hammered.
These are a small sample of them.

Spike

I like the hammer and punch method, especially when taking one off. The punch leaves a mark so I know which way to turn it loose. Unless it has been on and off a few times


Gordy

Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Sep 24, 2021 11:51 am I must say, Case Ingersoll using all these non-standard bearings reminds me of Apple and their proprietary connection ports over the years. Don't shoot!

Case-Ingersoll actually is very good about using standard bearings. The newer caster uses the same bearing as the mower spindle. I think I have only changed one set of hex center bearings.

But, things that all seem to do is build their own mower blades in every way they could imagine for a center hole. I have the fancy Magnamatic blade balancer. The kit with the adapters is around, I think in the 16 parts range. The RM deck has a Craftsman adapter that is just a little too big to fit. It was pretty easy to take a file and shave a little off for it to work, though. Precision-balanced blades increase blade speed and reduce wear on the moving parts of the deck. I got lucky at an Estate sale. I bought the professional blade sharpener as soon as I saw the picture in the ad and paid her with PayPal. Then I get there to pick it up and she says that someone told her this thing on the wall goes with the sharpener. I got both for $40. If I had known more about the balancer there was probably an assortment of adapters since buying as a kit is the best deal.
I looked at your photo of the auger end with the sprocket. In the photo, to me and I may be wrong, it looks like your teeth are almost gone. Make sure you use a new American-made #40 chain and keep it nice and tight.

That's a great deal for the balancer alone yet the grinder too. I just researched them, and they are a bit pricey for a homeowner. With the cone being magnetic it really should do a super job.

Keep the Peace
Harry

@ssmewing you got a great deal on the balancer and sharpener! I don't think I've ever seen anything like that around here.

Interesting you say #40 chain, I thought the manual says 82 pitches #35 roller chain.

Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Dec 24, 2021 4:27 pm @ssmewing you got a great deal on the balancer and sharpener! I don't think I've ever seen anything like that around here.

Interesting you say #40 chain, I thought the manual says 82 pitches #35 roller chain.

#40 Chain is correct for the blower I am working on

Dave

Finally trying to put new bearings. Had to apply the cutting disk to the driving shaft bearings and it put a gouge on a badly placed finger

Guys, how do I get this pulley off without cutting another finger?

Eugen wrote: ↑Thu Nov 03, 2022 5:03 pm Finally trying to put new bearings. Had to apply the cutting disk to the driving shaft bearings and it put a gouge on a badly placed finger

Guys, how do I get this pulley off without cutting another finger?

I think I would start with a little heat. Don't burn your fingers you need to be more careful.

I assume your pulley is held on with a spirol pin like mine is (SB48 snowcaster). I think its two parts if I remember correctly. If you got both parts out, try what Tim suggested

Eugen wrote: ↑Thu Nov 03, 2022 5:03 pm Finally trying to put new bearings. Had to apply the cutting disk to the driving shaft bearings and it put a gouge on a badly placed finger

Guys, how do I get this pulley off without cutting another finger?

Some where on here , but of course I can find it . I posted how I removed the pulley from the caster I was rebuilding last winter. I remember using a few pairs of vise grips (one behind the other ) heat and a ball tie rod end pickle fork . Some pulley guys say are pinned on but my was keyed and set screws and had a second screw like a jam nut . So you could have either . But still need to have a lock on the shaft heat and a wedge to get off with out destroying it or yourself . See if you can find the post .

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Fri Nov 04, 2022 6:45 am

Eugen wrote: ↑Thu Nov 03, 2022 5:03 pm Finally trying to put new bearings. Had to apply the cutting disk to the driving shaft bearings and it put a gouge on a badly placed finger

Guys, how do I get this pulley off without cutting another finger?

Some where on here , but of course I can find it . I posted how I removed the pulley from the caster I was rebuilding last winter. I remember using a few pairs of vise grips (one behind the other ) heat and a ball tie rod end pickle fork . Some pulley guys say are pinned on but my was keyed and set screws and had a second screw like a jam nut . So you could have either . But still need to have a lock on the shaft heat and a wedge to get off with out destroying it or yourself . See if you can find the post .

I think on the last page of this is what you are looking for, at least part of it.
viewtopic.php?t=425&start=40

Thank you @Timj! I was searching for 20 minutes already and couldn't find it!

Mine has the rolled pin which came out easily. Needs heat for sure. I'll see what else...

@Timj . Dude you are amazing . I searched for about 30 min and could not find it , and I wrote it .

Ok, no vise grips like Dave so this is what I got.



A little heat didn't do anything. On to the acetylene torch...

One of those days. They say the hammer likes the chisel but it likes the finger too.

Plan B: remove rivets and pulley and use the puller.

The puller didn't budge it.
Plan C: cutting disk, hammer, and chisel.

Yes. Good.

Nasty one this

Cleaned up, welded the cut and it's almost like new well, I'm known to exagerate a little for entertainment purposes.

Eugen, that hand looks like you pulled a Eugene. Your red is a bit darker than powder red but it is Case blood.

Darn it @Eugen I told you to be more careful. that looks like it smarts a little.

@DavidBarkey @Eugen I had just recently been in that thread, otherwise I would have been searching too. I think we had a few blower and winter prep threads going at the same time last fall.

Jumpins and holy cats Eugen. That looks nasty. Ouch ouch.

Quite a job getting that pulley off.

Take it easy on your self.

Noel

Your progression in getting it loose reminds me of this. Cut up hands and bloodied knuckles isn’t fun. Glad that’s never happened to me! Yeah right, more times than I care to admit or remember! Thank goodness for tetanus shots. If you didn’t bleed a little when working on it you probably weren’t trying hard enough!

Glad you got it apart, and more importantly, glad you’ll heal up to fight another day!

Take it easy Eugen and spend some time with the family.

I don't have to explain to you guys, as careful as you think you are accidents happen. Luckily both injuries are pretty minor.

On the bright side, the drive shaft and related parts are ready for assembly. New chain, new bearings.

For the auger I got a couple of new Fafnir 204KRR2 bearings, which have the outer diameter smaller than the original bearings, and need a sleeve. I will make sleeves for these out of the outer race of the old bearings.


We had some amazing weather for the last week and a half so I took advantage of it and got some vacation days. Besides catching up with some of the stuff needing to get done before the bad weather arrives, I spent more time with the kids too. Pretty crazy to go for walks in t-shirts in the middle of November! I'm not complaining!

There's another thing that I spent time on fixing in the last few days. The alternator on the big backhoe, a delco 10si 24 volts. I'll write about it in the 680 thread because something interesting happened.

On with regular programming gentlemen.

The sleeves. First they need to detemper them.



Allow them to cool off at room temperature. Then slowly take off material on the interior with the lathe. The original bearings have an outside lip that keeps them from falling off inside the auger. I left a lip about 1/16" on the inside of the sleeve so that the smaller bearing does not fall inside either.

And they fit nice and tight. Still, I'll use some blue thread locker when installed.



If you are wondering why one of the adjusting bracket disks has four holes and the other many, it's because I got mixed up and gave Dave the matching one now we both have mismatched disks does a number on my ocd

Now time for

@Eugen I though the one with all the holes was for fine adjusting the chain . Never thought anything more about it . I have not put it back together yet if you want match the sets.

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sun Nov 06, 2022 5:19 am @Eugen I though the one with all the holes was for fine adjusting the chain . Never thought anything more about it . I have not put it back together yet if you want match the sets.

I believe that the one with many holes is indeed for finer adjustments, but I think it's meant to do that on both sides, perhaps a newer style; I'm sure of it because I know my newer caster had two of those brackets on. I had two casters, one older and one newer. As I was scrambling to get one working well enough to blow snow last Winter, I kinda mixed things just because I was rushing. So you ended up with one of the end brackets with many holes, and one with four holes. You also got the auger from the newer caster; I wanted to use the auger you have but one of the bearings was a metric one, bad fit (previous owner put it there). I wanted to get the bearings from the old auger but I couldn't get them out so I just used the whole old auger. There were a lot of things going on at the time, and I tended to rush everything. Mind you, I ended up not even being able to use the snowcaster, because the 444 on which I installed it refused to start anymore. Blew snow with the walk behind all winter Hopefully things will be different this Winter.

The lady in white caught me with my pants down. Figuratively speaking of course! . Literally, my snow caster is still disassembled!

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Nov 16, 2022 11:38 am The lady in white caught me with my pants down. Figuratively speaking of course! . Literally, my snow caster is still disassembled!


9DCFF722-74BF-425B-B72F-A1B0ECED6DD9.jpeg

So is mine . But at least all the parts are in the lean too of the back of the shop .

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Nov 16, 2022 1:19 pm
So is mine . But at least all the parts are in the lean too of the back of the shop .

I'm not as nice as you Dave, I put mine outside to get used to to the weather and not get any ideas of cushy life!

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Nov 16, 2022 1:34 pm

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Nov 16, 2022 1:19 pm
So is mine . But at least all the parts are in the lean too of the back of the shop .

I'm not as nice as you Dave, I put mine outside to get used to to the weather and not get any ideas of cushy life!

I am not nice . I am a pussy and don't like digging stuff out of the snow .

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Nov 16, 2022 1:46 pm
I am not nice . I am a pussy and don't like digging stuff out of the snow .

I'm not tough either, just didn't get around to doing anything about this. I feel worse about having to replace the rear brake pads on the truck and
I want to shoot the steering pump for whining all of a sudden!

And I thought I have trouble. Whew, you guys got it bad.

Noel.

I think we're all just squirrels trying to get all our nuts in place before winter sets in. Good luck guys. Lol

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Alright, I am a wuss and moved it "inside" for assembly.

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Nov 16, 2022 6:36 pm Alright, I am a wuss and moved it "inside" for assembly.

Your working smarter. I'm sure that tent provides you some protection from the wind.

Just wondering about your building there Eugen. I’d like to get some thing like that. But a little smaller to house a couple on tractors to give me some space in my garage. How do they handle high winds. ? Is my main question.

Noel

Propane57 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 17, 2022 5:36 am Just wondering about your building there Eugen. I’d like to get some thing like that. But a little smaller to house a couple on tractors to give me some space in my garage. How do they handle high winds. ? Is my main question.

Noel

Noel, the short answer is no.

The long answer. There is only company that makes the good tents, Shelter Logic, and I found that Canadian Tire is the best source to buy it from, because they go on sale from time to time. Shelter Logic makes tents that are rated for high wind and snow, but they are in the $2000 and up territory. And those don't come in small sizes. When I bought the first tent, or portable garage/shelter, as they call it, I didn't know anything about them and it was an impulse buy because it was one sale and seemed strong. The size is 20L x 13W x 12H feet. You can see it in my pictures here on the forum. The roof profile is not very steep, so it was a nightmare in the winter. The snow would accumulate and I had to beat it from the inside to get the snow off the roof in fear it would collapse. Although we're not far from Lake Huron, we got trees almost all around us, so we don't get high winds on a regular basis. But I can tell you that it survived a few storms with high winds, including the one that brought down a huge ash tree next to the house. I don't know how it would handle daily high winds, but I think it would do well, if you anchor it properly all around it. The anchors that came with it are like an auger that you screw into the ground. I used an impact gun to do that, all four corners. You need to be careful how you install the tarp too, needs to be taught. If the tarp is loose it's bad, both with snow and wind. Wind will weaken the tarp if it's loose.

The next tent I got is the brown one you see, and it was double the price, but no more trouble with the snow, it's really tall, about 16 feet, and 20 feet long, and 13 wide. No more trouble with snow, the roof is steep and the snow doesn't stay too long on it. It is still not guaranteed rated for snow and wind, but I can tell you that last winter I did nothing to it, it's just fine. Just a much better tent this one, and I have now two.

I can tell you this for sure, because I've seen a lot of the smaller tents here in the village. Shreds and collapse is what they're called. It seems with these tents you go big or go home, seriously.

The other aspect is that the tarp number one enemy is UV. If they get full sun all day, it may last 2-3 years, and then it disintegrates. Some people put an extra cheaper sacrificial tarp on top which they replace every 2 years.

Also, if the tent has nothing under it, you get a lot of humidity coming up from the ground, and if you have rust sensitive things stored in it, they will still rust. Ask me how I know? I thought gravel would be enough, which I put in my first tent; it's not enough. The next two tents got both 6 mil poly sheet under, and a 20x16 tarp on top. One of them gravel on top of the tarp. No more humidity in the tent. Hopefully this lasts until, with God's will, I can build a shop. But who knows if or when that will happen.

I bet you didn't expect this long ramble.

No picture yet, but I assembled the snow caster last night, worked past 1am on it. Except for the chain.

Question for you gang. When the auger is set to be closest to the back of the housing, is there a pre-defined number of links for the chain? In other words, how much slack or lack of it should there be in the chain?

Great ramble on the enclosures Engen. I surely don’t need any thing that big. Just was thinking I guess about more room some how. May never happen. Easier to sell two tractors.

On the chain on the caster. I don’t know how may links there are. I could count them on both of my casters if you like. But I’m sure they could all be different. Might depend on chain and the wear on the two cogs.
I think if you adjust it so the chain is not hitting the metal on the bottom of the caster, while in the off position, that it would be good. I really don’t know, just a guess and quick ramble on that.

Noel

Propane57 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 17, 2022 5:36 am Just wondering about your building there Eugen. I’d like to get some thing like that. But a little smaller to house a couple on tractors to give me some space in my garage. How do they handle high winds. ? Is my main question.

Noel

Noel , ever thought about a sea can ? a 20 footer would work good for you .

Propane57 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 17, 2022 12:11 pm I surely don’t need any thing that big.

Famous last words!

Easier to sell two tractors.

I am shocked!

Noel, I am surprised you don't build a small shed, you got so much wood. Throw a steel roof on it, maybe even steel siding.

Eugen wrote: ↑Thu Nov 17, 2022 1:02 pm

Propane57 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 17, 2022 12:11 pm I surely don’t need any thing that big.

Famous last words!

Easier to sell two tractors.

I am shocked!

Noel, I am surprised you don't build a small shed, you got so much wood. Throw a steel roof on it, maybe even steel siding.

That’s true Eugen. Son could build it. I could help. Seems the older I get, I’d rather take the easy route.

Noel

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Nov 17, 2022 12:38 pm

Propane57 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 17, 2022 5:36 am Just wondering about your building there Eugen. I’d like to get some thing like that. But a little smaller to house a couple on tractors to give me some space in my garage. How do they handle high winds. ? Is my main question.

Noel

Noel , ever thought about a sea can ? a 20 footer would work good for you .

No Dave. Never thought of that. There are lots who use them around here.

Noel.

What can you guys get away with up your way? I think this is pretty neat. I'd like to do this behind my house.

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Jancoe wrote: ↑Thu Nov 17, 2022 2:06 pm What can you guys get away with up your way? I think this is pretty neat. I'd like to do this behind my house.

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Unfortunately doesn't work for me, our township doesn't allow these containers in our village

well, I'm not complaining actually. It is what it is, I work with what I have, all good.

Propane57 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 17, 2022 1:14 pm

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Nov 17, 2022 12:38 pm

Propane57 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 17, 2022 5:36 am Just wondering about your building there Eugen. I’d like to get some thing like that. But a little smaller to house a couple on tractors to give me some space in my garage. How do they handle high winds. ? Is my main question.

Noel

Noel , ever thought about a sea can ? a 20 footer would work good for you .

No Dave. Never thought of that. There are lots who use them around here.

Noel.

They come with lockable double doors and you can add more . Can withstand way more Mother Nature can through at it than a wood structure . Not what they go for out there , but around here they go for about the same as one of the high end covers like the farmers use for animal shelters .
Me I have an 40' insulated semi trailer with the axles removed . sitting on peir blocks . Double doors in the back like normal and put a roll up door in the side near the front . And still have stuff in 2 more coverals and even more stuff getting covered in $%^&*( .

With the new chain on it was time to test it. Sounds like the auger touches somewhere. Will have a look tomorrow.




https://vimeo.com/772280678

Jancoe wrote: ↑Thu Nov 17, 2022 2:06 pm What can you guys get away with up your way? I think this is pretty neat. I'd like to do this behind my house.

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That’s a neat set up. I’ve seen them here, same set up but with a round metal roof. Lot more height in the middle. So large vehicles can park under it.

Noel

Went out to test the snow caster, bummer. What was I thinking with summer tires, no chains, no weight. cleaned the snow with the walk behind (which mysteriously just started working again). I guess the AG tires from the 644 + weights will do. Well, another day another time, now the job needs me. We need more robots.

The water on the friction disk must have dried up Eugen. Mysteriously.


Noel.

Propane57 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 18, 2022 11:32 am The water on the friction disk must have dried up Eugen. Mysteriously.


Noel.

Mysterious to me Noel.


Put the combine weights on the 444 with the snow caster and tested it a little tonight. It's moving and blowing. This tractor is so strong. I'll shoot a video one of these days to show the snow caster in action.

Hi, so I found out my spirol pin was missing from my J84 snow caster!!! seems that over a couple of years it had worked its way out rather than sheared! Just so everyone is up to date we are talking about the pin holding the belt pulley to jack shaft (a 1/4x 1.5 inch) . Unlike a spiral pin the spirol pin has a very high shear strength. So my pin was just missing! The jack shaft and pulley was replaced about 2 years with the latest 19 tooth version. As this happened during a snow storm of very wet snow I just sidelined the GT and got my back up out. As I intend to refurb my caster this year I just left even the analysis till later and more temperate climate originally expecting a sheared pin and all the issues that that brings.. Got to look at the weekend and found the missing pin that frankly made life a lot easier. So I sized the pin (1/4x 1.5") and started looking. Finally ordered from Zoro a pack of 10 (sorry case suppliers). Because I want to refurb the caster this year and that the Case is now the back up I will use a 1/4 bolt as my new pin.

Ray, if you use a nylon lock nut and a bolt that has a long non threaded shaft, you may find never a good reason to replace it with a spirol pin. Keep the change of Mr Dave's 2c

I wondered that too. Eugen. Seems when I went looking for a "new" solution that my mind was more on finding the most non shear solution rather than any safety factor in saving...whatever..

I now have my two snow casters stripped down (L84 & J84) for rebuilds. Still making up my mind about the chain tension method I will use.. go with a version of later snow caster or go with a tension block. The only reason not to "upgrade" to the later (SB) snow caster tensioner is that the Snow Caster chain adjustment jack screw #C29877 is no longer available. Anyone that has one of these they don't want (or have dimensions) ?

I found this site : https://wencosimplex.com/spade-bolts/ that would really make a start into creating my own bolt.

Any how, just started the process to strip the paint off the housings and getting them ready for paint. As I start work I will try to take some pics.