Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Sep 24, 2021 11:51 am
I must say, Case Ingersoll using all these non-standard bearings reminds me of Apple and their proprietary connection ports over the years. Don't shoot!
Case-Ingersoll actually is very good about using standard bearings. The newer caster uses the same bearing as the mower spindle. I think I have only changed one set of hex center bearings.
But, things that all seem to do is build their own mower blades in every way they could imagine for a center hole. I have the fancy Magnamatic blade balancer. The kit with the adapters is around, I think in the 16 parts range. The RM deck has a Craftsman adapter that is just a little too big to fit. It was pretty easy to take a file and shave a little off for it to work, though. Precision-balanced blades increase blade speed and reduce wear on the moving parts of the deck. I got lucky at an Estate sale. I bought the professional blade sharpener as soon as I saw the picture in the ad and paid her with PayPal. Then I get there to pick it up and she says that someone told her this thing on the wall goes with the sharpener. I got both for $40. If I had known more about the balancer there was probably an assortment of adapters since buying as a kit is the best deal.
I looked at your photo of the auger end with the sprocket. In the photo, to me and I may be wrong, it looks like your teeth are almost gone. Make sure you use a new American-made #40 chain and keep it nice and tight.
That's a great deal for the balancer alone yet the grinder too. I just researched them, and they are a bit pricey for a homeowner. With the cone being magnetic it really should do a super job.
Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Dec 24, 2021 4:27 pm
@ssmewing you got a great deal on the balancer and sharpener! I don't think I've ever seen anything like that around here.
Interesting you say #40 chain, I thought the manual says 82 pitches #35 roller chain.
#40 Chain is correct for the blower I am working on
Eugen wrote: ↑Thu Nov 03, 2022 5:03 pm
Finally trying to put new bearings. Had to apply the cutting disk to the driving shaft bearings and it put a gouge on a badly placed finger
Guys, how do I get this pulley off without cutting another finger?
I think I would start with a little heat. Don't burn your fingers you need to be more careful.
I assume your pulley is held on with a spirol pin like mine is (SB48 snowcaster). I think its two parts if I remember correctly. If you got both parts out, try what Tim suggested
Eugen wrote: ↑Thu Nov 03, 2022 5:03 pm
Finally trying to put new bearings. Had to apply the cutting disk to the driving shaft bearings and it put a gouge on a badly placed finger
Guys, how do I get this pulley off without cutting another finger?
Some where on here , but of course I can find it . I posted how I removed the pulley from the caster I was rebuilding last winter. I remember using a few pairs of vise grips (one behind the other ) heat and a ball tie rod end pickle fork . Some pulley guys say are pinned on but my was keyed and set screws and had a second screw like a jam nut . So you could have either . But still need to have a lock on the shaft heat and a wedge to get off with out destroying it or yourself . See if you can find the post .
Eugen wrote: ↑Thu Nov 03, 2022 5:03 pm
Finally trying to put new bearings. Had to apply the cutting disk to the driving shaft bearings and it put a gouge on a badly placed finger
Guys, how do I get this pulley off without cutting another finger?
Some where on here , but of course I can find it . I posted how I removed the pulley from the caster I was rebuilding last winter. I remember using a few pairs of vise grips (one behind the other ) heat and a ball tie rod end pickle fork . Some pulley guys say are pinned on but my was keyed and set screws and had a second screw like a jam nut . So you could have either . But still need to have a lock on the shaft heat and a wedge to get off with out destroying it or yourself . See if you can find the post .
Don't shoot! 
Don't burn your fingers 
let's go, it's finally time to blow. 
