Calculating hydraulic cylinder attachment points
Posted: Sun Sep 25, 2022 10:08 pm
I'm designing a new grapple for my bucket and I thought it might be interesting to show the process to find/locate the proper attachment pivot points.
I have two different hydraulic cylinders available to me. One that has a 10" travel and one that has 5" of travel.
I used a CAD program to decide which cylinder to use, and to calculate precisely where to locate the pivot point holes.
I'm using CAD to do the "what if" demonstrations to help me think it through. Some people use scale-accurate cardboard templates. I prefer CAD.
I started with a side view drawing of my bucket and drew a likely looking grapple arm shape, pivoted just above and behind the top edge of the bucket.
I then overlaid my extended shorter cylinder and it was instantly obvious that the 10" travel cylinder is way too long. The 5" travel is actually about right. The pivot centers on that cylinder are 20 5/8" apart when extended, 15 5/8" when retracted. I chose a likely looking upper pivot point and drew in the cylinder there, angled as far downward as possible to where the cylinder will nestle between the grapple tines. (To be honest, this drawing is after several iterations of doing the procedure I'm laying out here and then adjusting the pivot point as needed. So this pivot point is "known good" but this process is how I found the "known good" location.) The cylinder's lower pivot point is the common pivot point where both the cylinder ram and the grapple cage will be pinned together.
Next I drew a circle that represents the swing path of the cylinder eye when it's retracted. Then I drew a circle that represents the swing path of the grapple's pinning point. Then I mark the point where the two sweep arcs meet at their upper point. At this point the sweep of the retracted cylinder eye meets the sweep of the grapple pinning point. That's where the pinning point will be located when the grapple is fully open.
Now that I know this "open position" upper pin point, I can proceed to draw in the cylinder and grapple in their open positions.
This allows me to envision how things look both open and closed, and judge whether I'm happy with it.
In the earlier iterations of this process, the upper/retracted intersection point wasn't where I wanted it to be. Either the grapple wasn't far enough open at full cylinder retract, or the grapple sweep never intersected the cylinder sweep at all, which would mean that the cylinder would be attempting to bend/crumple the grapple structure itself at full retract.
So I moved the cylinder upper pivot point up/down/in/out until I found a location that the cylinder could fully retract, while simultaneously having an acceptable open grapple position.
With that knowledge in place I can proceed to call out dimensions and details that I'll use to bend/weld create the individual components.
The tines themselves, the 1/2" rebar diagonal reinforcements, the relative positions of the upper pivot points, and the grapple pinning point plate.
The total time invested was less than a couple hours, and it leaves you ready to begin fabrication.
To the degree that you can perfectly create what's drawn, you could fabricate the components 100% and just assemble them. In the real world for me, I'll fabricate the 6 tines, weld them into a single assembly, and then re-evaluate how close the drawing is to reality.
Bob
I have two different hydraulic cylinders available to me. One that has a 10" travel and one that has 5" of travel.
I used a CAD program to decide which cylinder to use, and to calculate precisely where to locate the pivot point holes.
I'm using CAD to do the "what if" demonstrations to help me think it through. Some people use scale-accurate cardboard templates. I prefer CAD.
I started with a side view drawing of my bucket and drew a likely looking grapple arm shape, pivoted just above and behind the top edge of the bucket.
I then overlaid my extended shorter cylinder and it was instantly obvious that the 10" travel cylinder is way too long. The 5" travel is actually about right. The pivot centers on that cylinder are 20 5/8" apart when extended, 15 5/8" when retracted. I chose a likely looking upper pivot point and drew in the cylinder there, angled as far downward as possible to where the cylinder will nestle between the grapple tines. (To be honest, this drawing is after several iterations of doing the procedure I'm laying out here and then adjusting the pivot point as needed. So this pivot point is "known good" but this process is how I found the "known good" location.) The cylinder's lower pivot point is the common pivot point where both the cylinder ram and the grapple cage will be pinned together.
Next I drew a circle that represents the swing path of the cylinder eye when it's retracted. Then I drew a circle that represents the swing path of the grapple's pinning point. Then I mark the point where the two sweep arcs meet at their upper point. At this point the sweep of the retracted cylinder eye meets the sweep of the grapple pinning point. That's where the pinning point will be located when the grapple is fully open.
Now that I know this "open position" upper pin point, I can proceed to draw in the cylinder and grapple in their open positions.
This allows me to envision how things look both open and closed, and judge whether I'm happy with it.
In the earlier iterations of this process, the upper/retracted intersection point wasn't where I wanted it to be. Either the grapple wasn't far enough open at full cylinder retract, or the grapple sweep never intersected the cylinder sweep at all, which would mean that the cylinder would be attempting to bend/crumple the grapple structure itself at full retract.
So I moved the cylinder upper pivot point up/down/in/out until I found a location that the cylinder could fully retract, while simultaneously having an acceptable open grapple position.
With that knowledge in place I can proceed to call out dimensions and details that I'll use to bend/weld create the individual components.
The tines themselves, the 1/2" rebar diagonal reinforcements, the relative positions of the upper pivot points, and the grapple pinning point plate.
The total time invested was less than a couple hours, and it leaves you ready to begin fabrication.
To the degree that you can perfectly create what's drawn, you could fabricate the components 100% and just assemble them. In the real world for me, I'll fabricate the 6 tines, weld them into a single assembly, and then re-evaluate how close the drawing is to reality.
Bob