Tire chains

[Spike188]

Frustrated by a lack of decent chains, snowdrifts a foot deep, and a good inch of ice over gravel, it was time to stop fooling around. These chains were being sold for walk behind snow blowers and one set wasn't long enough to wrap around our big wheel tractors. It took 1 and 1/2 sets to make a chains long enough for the 448.

These chains are aggressive and surprisingly the spikes did not roll over during use. They do not show any wear on the points after an hour of abuse. They weren't cheap to make but frustration and time saved are a huge dividend.

[RoamingGnome]

I've bought a couple of those sets from Princess Auto in the last couple of years - The V-bars hold up really good - but they definitely leave their mark on concrete.

[MattA]

I've got 2 link chains from tirechain.com. Part number 131155. I got them in trade from a local Case Ingersoll guy.

[Spike188]

@MattA I would consider making a set of 2 link chains like yours. 4 link and 6 link chains with no lugs do not give enough traction on ice, where 2 link chains might be a much better non-marring option.

For those that are not familiar with tire chains, the link count is the number of links between and including the ladder. A large link count will give a rougher ride and less traction.

[MattA]

The two link chains and added weight fixed my traction issue. The tractor also rides smoother on 2 link chains. I am running the newer plastic wheel weights + 3x42lb suitcase weights. Previously I ran plastic wheel weights and a 16" cube weight box + 4x concrete blocks (200lbs?) with the 2 link chains. I should also mention with the 16hp vanguard engine I can't push the snowcaster too hard into a snowbank like you could with an onan.

@Spike188 Years ago my dad and I rebuilt his snowblower chains with a length of chain from the hardware store. We would cut a length of new chain, cut a slot in the end links and separate the end links. The end links would then be attached to the tire chains by squeezing the cut links back together. I assume you guys are doing similar.

[Toolslinger]

4 Link is better than nothing (never seen 6 link). 2 link is pretty nice. If I had to buy chains again for turf tires I would pony up the money and get the net style with v-bar. Not sure how they'd work on ag lugs. I got a set that I put on my JG Gator that has basically turfs, and it is amazing how well they work, and how smooth the ride is, plus I feel no need to limit speed. (my gator tops out at 16 when new, and it's got 5000+ hours, so I doubt I'm getting 16 these days) Speed is obviously not much issue on the GT's but ride quality would be a lot nicer without the repeat up and down of ladder style.

If you're on concrete and worried about marks, you could skip the v-bar, but really any steel is going to mark. I'd probably just go for ag lugs at that point, and go with sand/salt/calcium to help with ice. I got through only 1 season when my father had put in a paver drive before going back to chains. The marks fade as long as you don't spin a tire and leave big claw marks.

[propane1]

Last year I bought tire studs off Amazon. They were small and just screwed into the tire lugs. Worked great. Can’t see much wear on them and I don’t think I even lost any.
But will maybe mark up a nice driveway, I don’t have a nice driveway, so I don’t have to worry about that.

Noel.