Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

The 1/4" square plate piece that goes below the sleeve has an outer diameter of 4.8" and a groove with diameter 4.6". The sleeve bore is 4.625". Now it needs a 1" center hole.

The 7/8 threaded rod for the sleeve puller was too short. Ended up using a 3/4 rod. Turned the engine so that the camshaft journal was out of the way and fitted the bottom plate from below. Some wiggling was necessary, plate first, then rod through it, and sat it on the camshaft lobe. On top just put the threaded rod through the bracket and a nut. After some more wiggling to seat the disk nicely on the sleeve bottom I started to tighten the nut. The first 1/2 inch went slow, as it's fitted tight.


Then with a plop it just came undone. Took off the bracket and slowly pulled up the sleeve. All of a sudden it came out and a whole bunch of coolant. Somehow my feeble mind lost track of the coolant inside the engine perhaps the silver lining was that the ground was frozen solid and the coolant stayed on the surface long enough for me to transfer it to a pail by the soak and squeeze a rag method. The minor downside is just experiencing various levels of frozen hands.


Buuuut! The sleeve is out. Here it is, after cleaning it with some brake fluid and soft wire brush.



After measurements were done there is no doubt which parts to order. A new chapter begins.

Eugen, I thought about jumping in and giving advice on building a sleeve puller. Why would I doubt that you would come up with a great solution.

Great job! That is a milestone moment. Sounds like that puller worked well!

Spike188 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 22, 2023 5:59 pm Eugen, I thought about jumping in and giving advice on building a sleeve puller. Why would I doubt that you would come up with a great solution.

@Spike188 , I will always appreciate advice, so please feel free to always speak up your mind as far as I am concerned. You and most folks here have a lot more experience than I with such things. Just because I don't always ask for advice doesn't mean I know it all. I like exploring ways of doing things.

@JSinMO indeed it feels like a milestone. It's deep inside the engine, was quite intimidating even thinking about doing it. And the puller worked fine, in a matter of minutes the sleeve was out.

Most likely I cannot get to the cylinder closest to the front of the tractor, as it's right above that cross member. Opening it up to this level it'd be nice to do all cylinders. I could probably get away with doing just this cylinder and replacing all gaskets, but that doesn't make me feel so good. More stuff to sleep on I guess.

Eugen you might want to put some wood between your puller and the top of the block to help prevent damage to the block.

I'm interested in how you will install the new sleeves.

Great work @Eugen! - It might be worth checking if there is a preferred lubricant for the new o-rings when the time comes to install the new liner, don't forget to do a test fit without the o-rings so you can check protrusion of the new liner...

@eugen if your finding this intimidating it doesn’t show! You’re moving right along.

I think I would suggest at least pulling the other head off and inspecting everything since your this far in. It would be a shame to put it all together and then have a problem.

In my experience you can fix a single cylinder and everything will be fine, as long as the rest of the engine checks out ok. Is it the right way to do it? Depends on who you ask. Plenty of people would say it’s terrible.

Here is a picture of the last tractor me and my dad worked on. We did this for one of my neighbors. He brought it to me with the engine locked up. You can see we only replaced one sleeve, the rest of the engine was fine, and the neighbor didn’t want to spend more on it. It’s still running fine. In my case this was a dry sleeve with no o-ring. I put it in the freezer the day before to shrink it just a little and it slid right in. These engines are typically low RPM so they can last a long time. Old internationals are around 1800 max RPM and I’m betting your Case isn’t much more that 2500 RPM. These are just my thoughts and opinions for whatever that’s worth. Your turning the wrenches on this one, and your more than capable so no worries!


Anyway I guess this is just some old tractor rambling, if nothing else I guess I’m saying I’ve been elbow deep in an old tractor engine and it worked out fine and I know yours will too!

Awesome . Now you can order your parts . I agree with pulling the front head and checking for any signs of the same there . What ever caused this failure , bad fuel , bad air filter , over heating , bad oil , ect. is shared by the hole engine .

I agree with Dave, that the front cylinders should be checked. Eugen, you are so close to having the pan off. Lifting the rad to allow more engine lift is probably the method of chose. Unless your compression test before tear down indicate a good cylinder, a few more hours of slugging will give you a lot of peace of mind when assembling the engine.