Case 680E

[Toolslinger]

@Toolslinger yeah, I wish to have found a quality set at a low price, but something similar happened to me. A local tool shop similar to your HF had a whole bunch of 3/4 drive sockets on clearance, prices between 1.99 and 4 dollars. Bought all kind of sizes, except a few including the 1.5". All my 3/4 drive sockets are 12 point too, and I had similar thoughts to yours.

My father picked up a full set of 3/4" drive sockets years ago, likely either at auction, or a flea market. They're "SAE", as opposed to "Metric", and due to their price point they don't actually fit either format correctly. They're the thing you use to hammer on to something that's aready chewed up, and you're out of other options... While they don't fit anything, and have generally been in that abuse catagory, we've never actually broken one, which I always found strange, and mildly impressive. They're heading out the door to the auction house next time I do a drop.

[Eugen]

I have heard of sockets and wrenches nominally the right size but so badly made they're either slightly smaller or slightly larger. Hasn't happened to me yet, even with those from the local hw store. Was pleasantly surprised when I got these large ones on clearance, all either Crescent or Dewalt. I know these names are not the highest quality but they do give one hope it's not down at the bottom either. Next to impossible to find here old USA made sockets and wrenches at any price. Consider yourself blessed with that set!

[Eugen]

After a trip to the local store after work today a 1.5" socket made it to the drawer.

Not having a big vice or a shop, my preferred method of getting the piston retaining bolt undone is with the rod in its original spot on the device if possible. This one is secure here and ready for action.

Didn't even try without heat. Spent 2-3 minutes heating the area with the propane torch.

The bolt came off much easier than I thought. After that it took another couple of minutes to push the gland off the rod using a copper hammer.

Inspecting the gland showed the obvious initial culprit: bad rod wiper seal.

It's not directly responsible for the leak. But allowing water and dirt in, the inner surfaced of the gland got rusty and crusty.

This U seal is the main means of stopping the oil under pressure from escaping next to the rod. But if it sits in a rusted groove it no longer seals and the oil seeps around it.

Scraped the groove a little as a test.

I'm going to have to restore that groove surfaced to a smooth finish. Probably with JB weld and turn smooth on the lathe. At least this is what I'm thinking at the moment, if you guys have suggestions it's much appreciated.

[DavidBarkey]

@Eugen . Is the gland cast iron or steel ?

[Toolslinger]

I'd be concerned with JB holding under hydraulic pressure, but then I've never tried it. It has surprised me before... Any chance you can find a seal that's sized such that you could just work with a cleaned up groove in the gland without adding material back in?

The Crescent, and Dewalt sockets I've come across have been pretty good actually. I did break one Crescent in the past, but honestly, I think just about any brand would have given up at the point I was at. It had held up long enough to shear the drive on the first breaker bar, and you can't ask for more than that. This is going back some now, but the Dewalts were coming out of the same foundry that makes the Proto line if I recall. I'd say either of those are major scores in the prices you noted.

[Eugen]

I'd be concerned with JB holding under hydraulic pressure, but then I've never tried it. It has surprised me before... Any chance you can find a seal that's sized such that you could just work with a cleaned up groove in the gland without adding material back in?

I don't think the hydraulic pressure works against the JB weld. I think it works actually on it, pressing it against the surface. This is what I mean

The gland is cast iron, I don't want to risk adding material with the welder.

I have thought about a larger seal too, but it's something I don't know enough about, pressure calculations and largest thickness for those kind of pressures.

But now you made me think. so, the U seal is rated usually for 5000 psi. Let's say the corroded surface gets cleaned by removing 0.01 inches, and a layer of JB weld, 0.01 inches is stuck to the surface. In effect like a gasket (red line in the drawing). When the oil is pushed in the U shaped seal, the lower part of the U is pushed against the rod, while the upper part of the U is pushed against the JB weld layer. Would the oil pressure be so high as to break the bonding strength of the JB weld and oil get pushed between the JB weld layer and the gland surface?

[Eugen]

There's a small chance I'm overthinking this. If this cylinder went to the local hydraulics shop what's the chance they'd clean up the groove and slap a new seal on it?

But here is the groove now all clear of rust.

The pitting is on the lower 2/3 portion.

Incidentally the seal has an exterior ridge pushing right against the upper third of the ridge, which is not pitted. Seeing this I'm kinda tempted to leave it as is and slap the new seal in with a little jb weld all around for good measure.

[DavidBarkey]

@Eugen Smooth out the surface the best you can without remove too much material and put a new seal with grease to slow down future rust and call her done .

[Harry]

I agree with David. You’ll probably never have any problems with the cylinder. Harry

[Eugen]

I hear you guys, we keep it simple then. Waiting for the seal kit now.