Case 680E

[Eugen]

Thank you guys!! Great advice and I will heed it.

This engine in this machine is the 336BD which seems to be used in a few other machines, I'm hoping that gives a greater chance to find parts. Apparently there are two types sleeves that have been used, and for the kit you must specify which you want, but I have no idea which type is in my engine.

[Eugen]

Ordered this gland wrench on July 4th, never came. Ordered it again from a different vendor, the wrong one came, too small.

Let's hope the third time they get it right.

A few other things also just didn't come, maybe amazon is getting tired or something. You get your refund but the time lost is lost. First world problems...

[DavidBarkey]

I know your pain . I have had stuff "lost " so they refunded . then it shows up 2 months later out of the blue . By that time long since don't need it anymore .

[DavidBarkey]

I know your pain . I have had stuff "lost " so they refunded . then it shows up 2 months later out of the blue . By that time long since don't need it anymore .

[Eugen]

Got the gland wrench for a few days now but as much as I was burning to try it, we got the bad storm with a lot of rain, and yesterday, first dry day, just had too much stuff to do. Today though, in my lunch break, had a chance to give it a try. The pin holes in the gland top looked like someone has been working on it already. Which maybe explains why it was so easy to undo.


https://vimeo.com/736908403





Must've put at most 20 ft-lb on the wrecker bar, and it started to go. I mean, I only wanted to test the fit.

One thing to say about the tool though. The tool pins already have marks on them! -- from the tiny force to undo the gland. What are they made of, copper?!

The original design of this tool seems to be OTC, but the one I got is a copy, one of many copies you can find on amazon. The OTC is $$, of course, and I was considering getting it, but it too has some reviews where it says the material isn't very strong. Oh well, looks like at least I'll be able to get this cylinder undone without too much trouble. Remains to be seen if it that's true. This must be delayed though, as I have to make a couple of holes for the septic system design calculations.

What to do about it? Send it back for a refund? But then how do I get the work done? Or try and harden the pins and ends of the tool with the torch and cold water? Or replace the pins with drill ends?

[Timj]

turned easy enough, that's a big relief.

[DavidBarkey]

@Eugen Glad to see it was not much of a fight for you . If someone has been in there before , make me wound why it is leaking . Did they not fix right ? Is there damage to the shaft causing seal failure ? Or started , but never finished ? All good things to look for before reassembly .

[Eugen]

Took the day off my job and tackled that leaky cylinder. Last time I tried to undo the gland I said it started to screw out easy. Today I thought I'd just use the 1/2 inch drive 18 inches long breaker bar. Haha! Did not budge. Out came the 30 inches wrecker bar and the 3/4 drive head. After quite a few turns it see med the gland stopped coming out. Figured it was their end of the threads. But seemed really tight on, wasn't able to pull it back. Left the rod pinned on the backhoe and punched out the pin on the other side. Then hooked up a tow strap to the cylinder, positioned some wood pieces so that it would both pull straight out and when separated it would fall on soft surface. Then backed up the truck slowly and pulled the cylinder off the rod. Caught most of the oil from inside but stills made quite a mess.

Looking at it from the car before backing up.

Separated rod from cylinder.

Then I lifted the rod end up to tackle the big bolt on the end. People have stories about this bolt being tight and hard to get off. It takes a 1-7/8 socket. The Milwaukee impact just ticked it. Put the 3/4 drive head on and tried to turn it with a 1" thick 6 feet long wrecker bar. It was just bending. Then I heated up the rod end and the bolt head with a plumber propane torch. Must've done the trick because the big wrecker bar opened it after it was hot.

These were the tools.

Relieved to see the big bolt out.

Then I noticed this damage on the piston.

Took the seals off.

Thought about it but cannot see how it could be caused by my doing.

Took the seals and interior bearing off the gland. There was quite some corrosion there, did my best to clean it up.

My theory is that someone before me did work on this cylinder and did not clean up the interior of the gland, therefore even with new seals this was leaky. The damage on the piston I can't see how it would affect leaking oil to the exterior.

Can I put it back together now? No. Waiting for the seal kit. Why didn't I order it before? Well, I did, but I got the wrong parts. This cylinder comes in two versions, one piece piston and two piece piston. Tried hard to find the cylinder identifier number but could not make any of the character because off corrosion. My guess was that it was a two piece cylinder and a cheap kit and free shipping from Israel showed up on eBay so I bought it and it arrived today. Well, I guessed wrong.

Ordered the right kit from all states ag parts. As my dear likes to tell me "sometimes you win and other times you learn " today I learned.

[thebuildist]

I hate to be the one to say it but...

I think you probably need a new piston. I think that distortion of those seals is going to prevent them from getting a good seal to the inner side of the cylinder.

Here's hoping I'm wrong.

I see you've already thought this through and you're right I don't see how this part leaking would cause fluid to come out externally through the gland. But it does seem like it will reduce the cylinders strength.

Bob

[DavidBarkey]

Check oriantation of the piston damage to the cylinder . That kind of damage only come from one thing . A dent in the tube of the cylinder . That dent will need to be worked out and the cylinder honed so does not tare up new seals . You may get lucky and most of it was pushed and warn away . Take light and look down the cylinder to see where it was rubbing .