3/4 in breaker bar

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Re: 3/4 in breaker bar

Post by Toolslinger »

Can't go wrong with that Armstrong for $40...

I forgot to mention this place too...
https://www.harryepstein.com/
I've bought a bunch of gear from their Closeout section. Mostly Bonney sockets, and drives.
A quick look turned up at least 1 offering for a sliding head 3/4" Duro Chrome NOS unit of WWII vintage...
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Re: 3/4 in breaker bar

Post by MattA »

Another option I've seen done is welding a 3/4" square head bolt into a 1/2" drive socket. If it were me, I'd go with one of the off the shelf options already posted :thumbsup:
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Re: 3/4 in breaker bar

Post by thebuildist »

Looking at the picture of the backhoe, if it were me, I would make a wrench / cheater combination long enough to touch the ground. Then power up the machine and move the boom down and to the right. And let the power of the machine turn that gland for me.

For what it's worth.
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Re: 3/4 in breaker bar

Post by Eugen »

Guys, me thinks the real trick is not so much the force applied at the end of the stick, rather how to reliably transfer that force as torque to the gland. I been thinking about this and I have a plan which I will unveil once all the tools are ready. In the meantime stock on pop corn! :D

Unfortunately tools available in the US on the second hand market are not accessible to me, and ebay shipping costs are crazy. As I said, I got a plan. :bee:
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Re: 3/4 in breaker bar

Post by JSinMO »

Can’t wait to see it. I still have to do the power steering cylinder on mine. Maybe your idea will apply to my job too!
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Re: 3/4 in breaker bar

Post by Eugen »

There's this replacement head for a 3/4" drive breaker bar I can get for $15. It's chrome molybdenum and will be stronger than what I could build myself as the driving bit.
Screen Shot 2022-07-25 at 13.32.12.png

I already got a 30 inch wrecking bar that would fit right in the slot of this replacement head. If that bends, which I don't think it will, there's the Craftsman 42" heat treated spring steel wrecking bar for about $50 at the local store.

As Dave pointed out above, the pins might sheer before the breaker bar bends or the head breaks. I'm not sure I feel comfortable doing it with the torque wrench, I'm afraid it gets damaged. My plan is to heat it up with the torch and bang it all around with the hammer, and only then try to undo the gland.

Bob, while it's true that moving the boom of the backhoe would give me the biggest force, it won't help if it breaks the pin, head, or handle of the bar. I'm more comfortable with a more controlled force. If I wanted some more force than manual, I can always do it with the 644 bucket, for instance. Or put a strap on the handle of the breaker bar and pull it with the truck. Tempting as this may be, to enter the hall of fail fame of Youtube, I'll first try it with my own force and use the leverage a long handle gives. If I'm able to generate 100 pounds force myself, a three foot handle will make it 300 foot-pound torque.

The last bit that needs to be resolved is how to keep the ping wrench flat on the gland while applying force to the breaker bar handle. I'm thinking maybe a couple of ratchet straps to tension the tool on the gland. :hm:
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Re: 3/4 in breaker bar

Post by thebuildist »

You could tack weld it in place. Then grind the weld off after disassembly is complete.

I'd try it freehand first, but tack weld is what I'd reach for next. But be sure to cover/protect the chromed ram/rod.

Bob
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Re: 3/4 in breaker bar

Post by Eugen »

thebuildist wrote: Mon Jul 25, 2022 2:30 pm You could tack weld it in place. Then grind the weld off after disassembly is complete.

I'd try it freehand first, but tack weld is what I'd reach for next. But be sure to cover/protect the chromed ram/rod.

Bob
It's a good idea and I thought about it but I'm worried I'll destroy the tool :(
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Re: 3/4 in breaker bar

Post by JSinMO »

@Eugen that’s sounds like a good plan. Couple of things came to mind. Maybe start soaking the gland threads in penetrating oil or ATF now would help it break loose when your ready to try it. Also I was thinking maybe having the wrench on the glad with a light strain on it while your heating and tapping may help it break loose.
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Re: 3/4 in breaker bar

Post by propane1 »

Ok. More rambling. Don’t forget Eugen that you need two hammers. Gives a better shock.

And what about an air chisel with a blunt end. And lightly rattle the end with the two pin holes. Just a bit before trying to loosen, and maybe a bit while loosening.
Need two people to do that thou.

Just more rambling. See how it goes.


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