Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

The 4016 with Onan was getting very noisy at the end of last mowing season. Getting ready for the first mowing of the season today the muffler was removed. and welded back together Bob sent a box of belts, blades, and tension springs to Oklahoma which were picked up a month ago. That was and expensive way to beat customs and duty. 2300 miles, 2 motel bills, and a few meals. At least gas was cheaper back then. While putting the new tension spring on the RM60 deck, a crack in the mule was found. While the welder was out the mule got a quick repair before the spring was installed.

Wow, what a difference the proper spring and belt makes in grass discharge.

Spike

Probably alot quieter now

Must be nice to whip up that welder and fix up stuff! Nicely done!

That weld is commonly known as chicken crap. The metal was thin, rusty, and the breeze was blowing the mig gas away. I considered using oxy/acetylene and steel wire filler. It would have made a prettier bead. The problem I would have had with the tourch method would have been burn back. It would have required a very small tourch tip and flame.

Spike.

Spike188 wrote: ↑Fri May 06, 2022 6:30 pm That weld is commonly known as chicken crap. The metal was thin, rusty, and the breeze was blowing the mig gas away. I considered using oxy/acetylene and steel wire filler. It would have made a prettier bead. The problem I would have had with the tourch method would have been burn back. It would have required a very small tourch tip and flame.

Spike.

Hit it with a grinder Spike and all's well!

Keep the Peace
Harry

Spike188 wrote: ↑Fri May 06, 2022 6:30 pm That weld is commonly known as chicken crap. The metal was thin, rusty, and the breeze was blowing the mig gas away. I considered using oxy/acetylene and steel wire filler. It would have made a prettier bead. The problem I would have had with the tourch method would have been burn back. It would have required a very small tourch tip and flame.

Spike.

Chicken crap weld or not, the muffler will go back to work. If I would have tried to weld that it would have more holes in it when I was done than before I started! Good catch finding that crack.

Putting the new blades on this evening and found this.This has to be fixed Now. The mig gas bottle is empty so this is the end of this project until tomorrow. The plan is, back the drive pulley nut is off a few turns and push the shaft toward the blade mount. Rest the drive side of the shaft on a steel block to push the shaft through the bearings a bit. Then the blade bracket can be timed and leveled on the loose shaft. Tack welding the bracket to the shaft and stich welding should keep things cool enough to complete without pulling the bearing assembly. When everything is cooled tighten the drive pulley nut and go back to mowing.

Another reason the 646bh is not finished.

Spike

Anybody else having trouble getting welding gas and oxygen?

Spike188 wrote: ↑Fri May 06, 2022 6:30 pm That weld is commonly known as chicken crap. The metal was thin, rusty, and the breeze was blowing the mig gas away. I considered using oxy/acetylene and steel wire filler. It would have made a prettier bead. The problem I would have had with the tourch method would have been burn back. It would have required a very small tourch tip and flame.

Spike.

That is a perfect example why I use flux core a lot on that stuff . Gas is great for pretty welds on clean stuff but can't beat flux core for dirty stuff . My welder buddy calls it farmers wire LOL.
And ya welding gasses are in short supply all over . @Timj

Dave

@Timj you can have my bottles as I'm deathly afraid to use them.

Spike188 wrote: ↑Fri May 06, 2022 7:56 pm Putting the new blades on this evening and found this.20220506_184856.jpgThis has to be fixed Now. The mig gas bottle is empty so this is the end of this project until tomorrow. 20220506_193819.jpg The plan is, back the drive pulley nut is off a few turns and push the shaft toward the blade mount. Rest the drive side of the shaft on a steel block to push the shaft through the bearings a bit. Then the blade bracket can be timed and leveled on the loose shaft. Tack welding the bracket to the shaft and stich welding should keep things cool enough to complete without pulling the bearing assembly. When everything is cooled tighten the drive pulley nut and go back to mowing.

Another reason the 646bh is not finished.

Spike

Another good catch. And that’s why we check equipment regularly so you don’t end up with this. I know it’s not a garden tractor but the point is the same. I can tell you it would have been much easier to find it and fix it than to make all the repairs I had to do get the old brush hog running again. Glad you found that before you were out mowing!

I hope no one was near by when it happened.

Dave

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Fri May 06, 2022 9:05 pm I hope no one was near by when it happened.

Dave

Thankfully I was alone cutting our pasture. This happened a year and a half ago and 1 blade is still missing. This is a result of the bolts that hold the blades on failing. It dropped the first blade and threw the mower out of balance. When the second blade let go it went right through the side and ended up about 30 yards away. I always check my equipment over, but I didn’t check those bolts. There was a lot more damage than the picture shows.

The point is be like Spike and check your equipment!

Spike probably the best way to accomplish this repair would be to remove the spindle and disassemble it. I know you want to get it back in service soon, since mowing season is upon us. I'm an old school stick welder. I have MIG and TIG in my shop but many times I'll grab the stinger and use E6010 or E7018 to make a weld. It's just what my instinct is usually. Now flux-core is another story completely. I like it and have used it a lot and it does give you a good weld even outside when the wind is blowing. Usually, more penetration than MIG but not as much as SMAW "Stick."

Now preparation is a major key to success in welding. So, I would try to remove the old weld on the blade holder and bevel the spindle shaft before I welded in back on. Another issue I foresee would be getting it back on at a 90°so the blade would spin evenly.

To much information Spike. Grab the stinger and run a bead of E6010 like a farmer would and get it back in service.

Keep the Peace
Harry

Looks great @Spike188! I''d suggest removing the woodruff keys so they don't ruin the bearings when you push down, but you'd probably be okay if it's just a little bit to go.

I'm rebuilding my k45 deck atm. Discovered when I got it on the tractor that there was excessive noise and play on the centre spindle. I didn't notice it before I replaced the motor mounts, but now that the tractor is much quieter with little vibration the deck obviously needs attention.

At least I've been lucky with some parts. The 444 I bought last year had a box of extra parts, new and used, but all the new parts I've needed so far, including new clutch bearings and what looks to be a used but good condition centre spindle (still had Ingersoll sticker on it). Not sure why it wasn't installed, but glad to have it! Should be a lot quieter when I get it all back together.

Classic timing as always, waiting on parts, grass growing like crazy and I have to resort to the push mower...oh well get some exercise at least.

That's a scary surprise @JSinMO. Glad nobody was around or hurt.

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@Spike188 how did the repair go?

@Chad looks like your bearings cut into the spindle shaft. I've got an RM48 center spindle like that. The upper bearing failed and cut into the shaft. The inner bearing race is stuck on the shaft.

After a quick look at the spindle design, it was a no brainer, remove the shaft for repair. Because the blade mount made a clean break from the shaft, removing the belts let the shaft slide out through the top side with pullies in place. A few pump in the 20 Ton press and the shaft was out of the pullies.The pullies were then stacked at the broken end of the shaft and used as the leveling plain for the blade holder. With the blade holder C-clamped to the pullies and the shaft was in perfect alignment for welding. Teardown to reassembly took just under 2 hours.
The side discharge brace also need repair.A large clamp and a little grinding made the weld repair a cake walk.

Getting closer to working on the 646BH.

Spike

Great work Spike. I'm always impressed by the skills you guys have to fix things

MattA wrote:Great work Spike. I'm always impressed by the skills you guys have to fix things

Agreed, nicely done!

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Great work @Spike188 . Yeah, all of this chatter about decks reminds me mine needs some tlc