Vivala446 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 24, 2022 3:04 pm
I'm afraid the only way to get good access will be to remove the battery, battery tray, hydraulic tank (again) and the plate that the tank sits on
The other option is to undue the engine and the hydra pump bracket. Unbolting the cooler bracket and slide them off to the side and sliding the engine forward a little . Both can be a pain . Unless you are able to pull the engine and bench test before reassemble these are your options . These tractor were built to work , not to be worked on . Hope a condenser and clean of the points gets you going soon .
As everyone can see from the pics, some Onans have top adjusting points and some have the back cover adjusting points. The top cover is the easier to adjust for sure. I would suggest to mount the condenser on the coil, so it's easier to change.
Myself I've converted my Onans to the Kirk Engine transdenser. I've installed new points and installed the transdenser near the coil. With micro volts across the points with the transdenser and installing new points at the time. I will never have to change them again. I also have installed electric fuel pumps on my Onans. It is so nice to turn on the ignition switch, wait a few seconds hearing the fuel pump click, then hear the engine start immediately. Even in cold weather, it's a blessing to hear it fire up.
After rebuilding the CCKA in the 646 last year and started it up. I was so excited to hear it purr. I think I wet my pants in the excitement. LOL.
I think the transdenser is a good idea, a condenser is cheaper BUT if you go with a new condenser make sure to get a OEM one from an Onan dealer. Many on the other site got them from eBay, but they were not OEM and either did not work or failed quickly. Try contacting Boomer http://boomersonanparts.com/ Or one of our dealers.
I'll probably go with the condenser first just to get it running. I may try and see if tractor supply has one for cheap that'll work just to see if I can get it to fire and then I can get OEM parts after if needed.
I was going to clean the points and plugs to see if i got any action that way. If it fires then I'll buy new plugs. If not I'll get a cheap condenser somewhere just to get it to fire. If that works, I'll go with OEM
One further question on this... in the interest of financial economy, would any old condenser work to use for testing or will only a small engine one do the job? As in, could I snag a $4 one meant for a car just to see if that is the issue at all.
Vivala446 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 25, 2022 4:29 pm
One further question on this... in the interest of financial economy, would any old condenser work to use for testing or will only a small engine one do the job? As in, could I snag a $4 one meant for a car just to see if that is the issue at all.
Any automotive grade condenser will work as long as it has a workable lead configuration .
