Getting prepared for winter

[DavidBarkey]

Nice job getting the machine in shape for the snow! Tim, are the front wheel bearings some standard size?

Front wheel bearings have a lip . Use only the hd one the standard duty one won't take the wait of Case.

Dave

[DavidBarkey]

Yes, the same as most of the tractors use.

I need not replace the front wheel bearings on any of tractors, but I gotta keep up with the Johns, in this Case with the Tims!



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6003-RS? But they do have a flange. Seem to need more grease too. As you can see they are Made in the PRC. Is that the Populist Republic of Canada?! don't shoot!

Dave

[Eugen]

Front wheel bearings have a lip . Use only the hd one the standard duty one won't take the wait of Case.

Dave

These that just got do have a lip/flange. According to the spec they're fine up to 900 lbs. But is it 900 lbs of feathers or 900 lbs of steel?! I doubt they'll see even 500 lbs ever, on my tractors.

[DavidBarkey]

Ya Eugen those are the Hd. ones , the regular ones are stamped steel outer . They need no less that .005 " press fit, I prefer .010". Should be built in the Od. of the bearing . Measure the Od of the bearing should be oversized and then the Id of the wheel should be on size. The inside one take the most abuse . Your rims should be grease-able which mean you need to remove the inner seal. On some applications I will just remove the inner seal "lip" and leave the seal in there . That way the grease can get to there but reduces the force on the seal potentially popping the seal out . This is done mostly on grease-able spindles . That is why some manufactures leave in the seals on some grease-able spindles.
Ps. if you don't have enough press fit , you can put a small bead of weld around the outside of the bearing area in the rim . When the weld cools it will contract a little and tighten things up a few thou. " Just light bead will do ,not too hot as you are just having it act like a clamp .

Dave

[MattA]

Haven't checked them yet. It was time for a

I run the recommended 7psi rear and 14psi front. I've also got rear plastic wheel weights + 3x 42lb suitcase weights on my hydravac mounting bracket.

I'm going to have to figure out how much weight I want/need to put on the rear. That gives me a good start point. Thanks Matt
Also been contemplating running a blade on the 3pt. That would give me extra weight, but be something I'd have to watch hanging out back there. That will force me to get a selector valve plumbed in sooner than later.

In addition to adding weights, replacing the inline link between the travel control lever and the travel control valve helped with my tractors jumpy operation with the snowcaster (and wheelies while mowing with the hydravac loaded). My tractor had a tendency to not want to move when pushing into a heavy wet snow bank and then it would surge forward bogging down the engine in the process. Travel operation is a lot smoother now but still not great.

[DavidBarkey]

I run the recommended 7psi rear and 14psi front. I've also got rear plastic wheel weights + 3x 42lb suitcase weights on my hydravac mounting bracket.

I'm going to have to figure out how much weight I want/need to put on the rear. That gives me a good start point. Thanks Matt
Also been contemplating running a blade on the 3pt. That would give me extra weight, but be something I'd have to watch hanging out back there. That will force me to get a selector valve plumbed in sooner than later.

In addition to adding weights, replacing the inline link between the travel control lever and the travel control valve helped with my tractors jumpy operation with the snowcaster (and wheelies while mowing with the hydravac loaded). My tractor had a tendency to not want to move when pushing into a heavy wet snow bank and then it would surge forward bogging down the engine in the process. Travel operation is a lot smoother now but still not great.

Along with the linkage I have found that the bushing at the top and the bushing (washer) of the control lever ware and contribute to the issue . The last one I did, I made the "washer " out Brass and made it double thick . I have seen steel, brass, on the control and nylon use on the lift lever.

Dave

[MattA]

I'm going to have to figure out how much weight I want/need to put on the rear. That gives me a good start point. Thanks Matt
Also been contemplating running a blade on the 3pt. That would give me extra weight, but be something I'd have to watch hanging out back there. That will force me to get a selector valve plumbed in sooner than later.

In addition to adding weights, replacing the inline link between the travel control lever and the travel control valve helped with my tractors jumpy operation with the snowcaster (and wheelies while mowing with the hydravac loaded). My tractor had a tendency to not want to move when pushing into a heavy wet snow bank and then it would surge forward bogging down the engine in the process. Travel operation is a lot smoother now but still not great.

Along with the linkage I have found that the bushing at the top and the bushing (washer) of the control lever ware and contribute to the issue . The last one I did, I made the "washer " out Brass and made it double thick . I have seen steel, brass, on the control and nylon use on the lift lever.

Dave

Thanks Dave. I forgot to mention the brass washers. I found my washers had only worn about 0.01" out of round but I replaced them anyways since I had already bought new ones.

The factory inline link runs in the $20 range AFAIK. For around $40? ssmewing provides an aftermarket setup that is supposed to help end jumpy acceleration. For the extra $20, I'd give it a try next time.

[DavidBarkey]

MattA .
Did you check for wear on the controll lever where the washer rides ? and where the linkage hooks to the lever?
I was repairing my today, will post pic.s tomorrow .

Dave

[DavidBarkey]

Before , this will allow a lot of movement of the lever before the linkage is moved even with a new washer bushing .

After weld and careful grinding, file and polish . Clear coated to keep rust away. paint the bottom where the spring contacts and the tip that contact the neutral safety switch.

Dave

[MattA]

Dave - Its been 2 years since I replaced the inline link and bushings. I don't recall seeing much wear like your levers had. My tractor only had 100-250 hours on it when I did the repair. I think where the linkage hooks into the lever may have had some designed in clearance? Anyways good work on the travel lever fix.

Tim - Sorry for the thread hijack