Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

Has anyone ever tried lining the body and the shoot with uhmw plastic ? I put it on the fan of my two stage a couple of years back with great results especially in wet snow .
Dave

I painted my snow caster chute with some two part epoxy that my wife had purchased and never used. She was going to put it into the garbage. I rescued it and used it which was originally to be used on a bathtub or sink. I think it worked well but I did notice a chip in it probably from a small stone. Others ideas are always helpful. Thanks Dave!

Keep the Peace
Harry

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Fri Sep 17, 2021 5:05 am Has anyone ever tried lining the body and the shoot with uhmw plastic ? I put it on the fan of my two stage a couple of years back with great results especially in wet snow .
Dave

What kind of plastic are you talking about Dave? I wish I could coat all the inner surface of the snowcaster with Teflon!

My snowcaster is in "original" shape and it needs a proper overhaul. Here I go again about ball bearings and all

Keep going guys! Snowcaster is on my next list.

Bill

Hoping it'll be a while before it snows, but I'm listening too. Unless I buy and mount a new plow, this will be my first winter with the Ingy as primary snow machine. Going to give the AHSB48 a little workout.

Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Sep 17, 2021 9:32 am

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Fri Sep 17, 2021 5:05 am Has anyone ever tried lining the body and the shoot with uhmw plastic ? I put it on the fan of my two stage a couple of years back with great results especially in wet snow .
Dave

What kind of plastic are you talking about Dave? I wish I could coat all the inner surface of the snowcaster with Teflon!

My snowcaster is in "original" shape and it needs a proper overhaul. Here I go again about ball bearings and all

UHMW read this page guys .
https://www.curbellplastics.com/Researc ... rials/UHMW . Teflon as a coating is slippery except it is not very good in the abrasive wear department . Before I leaned about UHMW I use to make sure paint was good and smooth and then use skie wax for corn snow as it has good abrasive wear . I know from working in a pattern and mould shop years ago that it can be heat formed . As most of us do NOT have a vacuum forming machine
or access to one , the other option although slow and time of the year sensitive is to build solar oven and alow it to heat and cool to the shape of the part by gravity . A little help from a wooden form (plug)at the end to help press it in tight to the sides . ( Google forming plastic in a solar oven ).

Dave

I can see where that could really make a lasting upgrade to the caster. I think the caster body would be pretty simple to form and a few small fasteners to hold in place. The upper part of the shoot would only need a couple of half circles. I think this is very doable. You got my wheels turning, oh no another project .

The wear resistance of these plastics is outstanding. The cable guide on our drilling rigs originally used wood wear blocks. Good white oak wood last a couple of years. We tried some thick plastic we had found somewhere, not knowing how it would hold up. I know the first ones we tried are still on after twenty plus years and show minimal wear.
Tim

I modified a L-80 form moving the auger to tighten the chain to the newer style of moving the small sprocket back and forth.This involves adjusting the auger all the way in, then slotting the hole for the bearing at the small sprocket and slotting the top bolt hole for the bearing mount. Then weld a plate behind the sprocket with a hole in it for an eye bolt that connects to the top bearing bolt to pull and hold it back. I believe this started with the S models, so lookupthat manual to better visualise it.

Also added the rubber paddle extensions.

Also gets a fresh coat of E-Z Slide graphite paint every fall.


Gordy

Opened up the auger on mine. PO replaced the original bearing on one side with a 6205-RS, a little smaller OD than the original, and brass inner bushing but not a good fit

Gordy wrote: ↑Sun Sep 19, 2021 9:40 am I modified a L-80 form moving the auger to tighten the chain to the newer style of moving the small sprocket back and forth.This involves adjusting the auger all the way in, then slotting the hole for the bearing at the small sprocket and slotting the top bolt hole for the bearing mount. Then weld a plate behind the sprocket with a hole in it for an eye bolt that connects to the top bearing bolt to pull and hold it back. I believe this started with the S models, so lookupthat manual to better visualise it.

Also added the rubber paddle extensions.

Also gets a fresh coat of E-Z Slide graphite paint every fall.


Gordy

Gordy has the right idea. In stock new condition the snow caster worked just great. This should be obvious by the fact that the only real change ever made is the one Gordy pointed out, the chain tensioner The auger must be as close to the housing as possible.

Case added a chain tensioner, problem solved. Well, except for good paint condition as the only other problem for well-used models. The Case paint with hardener is pretty durable and slippery, and it has already been invented.

Install all new bearings and idlers and it will run so quiet that you literally cannot tell if it is on. When I use mine I often forget to turn off the PTO and it is not until I go to use it again that I realize I left it on.

Gordy wrote: ↑Sun Sep 19, 2021 9:40 am I modified a L-80 form moving the auger to tighten the chain to the newer style of moving the small sprocket back and forth.This involves adjusting the auger all the way in, then slotting the hole for the bearing at the small sprocket and slotting the top bolt hole for the bearing mount. Then weld a plate behind the sprocket with a hole in it for an eye bolt that connects to the top bearing bolt to pull and hold it back. I believe this started with the S models, so lookupthat manual to better visualise it.

Also added the rubber paddle extensions.

Also gets a fresh coat of E-Z Slide graphite paint every fall.


Gordy

Forgot I added a wiper motor for chute rotation

I was thinking about adding another motor for the deflector, but the radius of the chute is so sharp I only turn it down when blowing into the wind. So on the todo list is building a new longer and straighter chute, similar to the ones on the Simplicities or dare I say JD's I have seen. As have been done several times on the other site.


Gordy

@Gordy that's a pretty fancy setup you have there with these luxury addons, but something's missing: a cab!!!

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Sep 22, 2021 1:40 pm @Gordy that's a pretty fancy setup you have there with these luxury addons, but something's missing: a cab!!!

Cabs don't count as snow caster mods But something like this.

Simplicity 7119. The can on the stack has been replaced with a flapper cap. Sorry no pics on this PC ofthe 224 with cab and short stack Cheers,
Gordy

Here is my CB30 soft cab. I've got the electric chute control kit for the Berco. I can take some pics if anyone is interested.

MattA wrote: ↑Thu Sep 23, 2021 10:02 pm Here is my CB30 soft cab. I've got the electric chute control kit for the Berco. I can take some pics if anyone is interested.

Yes please , I have a similar Berco hydro driven I put on the back of Frankie with a electric chute motor. Always interested in how others do things . Never stop learning .

Dave

David - I will shoot some pictures this weekend.

Heres my SB48 with Berco skid shoes and OEM extension wings. The Berco skid shoes are mounted with two 0.25" thick spacers on each bolt. I can look up the mcmaster part number if anyone is interested. The Berco skid shoes interfere with the extension wings lower mounting hole area without the spacers. One of the pictures shows the OEM skid shoe on top of the Berco skid shoe.

While I'm posting pictures, here are some pictures of my weight box. Unfortunately I can't use it with the behind the seat PTO installed (hits the PTO lines). I've also got 3 suitcase weights I hook into the hydravac mounting bracket on some stainless rods. I don't think I have any completed project pictures of that setup.

Here are the pictures of my suitcase weight setup. I don't have completed pictures after I painted the weights orange. I use a bunch of flat oversized washers to space out the weights.

I use the same seat motor for both operations from Surplus Center. The speed of the motors is perfect. They are not made to be wet, though.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrica ... 1762-L.axd

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrica ... 1-3259.axd



The shaft has to ground down to fit inside the twister spirally thing and also needs about an inch of 3/8" shaft welded on the end. So. it is not exactly simple. The basic bracket is all it takes to hold the motor in place and there is the extra tape for snow exposure protection.

Just the bracket.

Then the chute tilt you drill and tap the motor traveler nut and jam nut that to the nut and the chute. Use spacers and such to mount the motor. The closure you are to the pivot point the more motion you will get out of the motor.

By far the best modification I did to my sb48 was the chute and the front auger deflector. The taller chute can place the snow where you want it and even further than the original. The front lip on the chute keeps the top of the auger housing from collecting alot of snow. What little that does hit the lip goes back down to go back around. It no longer sprays snow everywhere from the auger. Another plus is I can open my hood all the way. Gonna try and get some wings made up and paint the few parts left in primer before snow comes.

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While not nearly as cool as Jancoe's custom chute, I cut an extra tooth on each side of my chute to allow it to rotate past 180°. To mark the chute, I created a cardboard template from the existing pattern and rotated the template.

David - Here are some pictures of my Berco's OEM chute control motors. Feel free to ask any questions or for more pictures.

I'm thinking to line some of the chute with plastic taken off of old skis

I have never had any issue with snow clogging or sticking to the chute.

But, I have always sanded and repainted the chutes when I get them. That just makes sense, right? When it was new I would bet you the snow came out, no problem.

Remember, adding a liner besides being a lot of time, work, money also just adds a place for moisture to linger and rust your chute out.

ssmewing wrote: ↑Tue Jan 04, 2022 10:55 am I have never had any issue with snow clogging or sticking to the chute.

But, I have always sanded and repainted the chutes when I get them. That just makes sense, right? When it was new I would bet you the snow came out, no problem.

Remember, adding a liner besides being a lot of time, work, money also just adds a place for moisture to linger and rust your chute out.

It makes sense what you're saying Steve, I can't disagree. Mine would need to get sanded to be smooth again. The main surface area is pitted from rust. Depending on snow conditions, mine did get clogged a few times last winter. For this winter I just applied some rust treatment and a coat of spray paint, it's all my time would allow for now. Hopefully for next winter I can do a better job restoring the snowcaster to a better shape.

@Jancoe Only today I had time to look more carefully at your mods. All that you've done looks so well made, I'd really like to see how it throws snow!

Eugen wrote:[mention]Jancoe[/mention] Only today I had time to look more carefully at your mods. All that you've done looks so well made, I'd really like to see how it throws snow!

Yes Eugen, all for the better. Im not cleaning off the top of the caster (area all around the chute opening) after I'm done blowing snow. The snow goes further and where I want it. I had planned on making some wing extensions before winter and getting everything painted but timing was off. Having the ability to remove the chute to open the hood is awesome. Lol now that I've made this one I've got some other ideas for another one or two and an idea of a 54" caster but i think I might leave that as an idea.

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The wider snowcaster may increase the snowcasters tendency to steer the tractor toward the side being pushed into more snow.

I can see the desire to have it wider so the area gets cleaner with fewer laps, but unless you have a really large area to clean, will one foot really make that much of a difference? I do dig the looks beefier looks though.

I ended up making 3 kits. But, that is it, no more this year.

I get pulled in too many directions sometimes. I come up with ideas and share them. Some guys can copy them, some need it to do for them.

Some cannot even wire a DPDT switch for motor reversing, which is not a common thing to do, really. But, there are a lot of details to get the right parts I guess.

Last year I was making 3 kits at a time. This year I am just trying to get to my own stuff.

ssmewing wrote: ↑Tue Jan 11, 2022 11:09 am I ended up making 3 kits. But, that is it, no more this year.

I get pulled in too many directions sometimes. I come up with ideas and share them. Some guys can copy them, some need it to do for them.

Some cannot even wire a DPDT switch for motor reversing, which is not a common thing to do, really. But, there are a lot of details to get the right parts I guess.

Last year I was making 3 kits at a time. This year I am just trying to get to my own stuff.

Kits for what Steve? You do some good stuff, feel free to show us, it might inspire some to either buy from you or build stuff. Not myself at the moment, I can barely find time for the most necessary stuff.

Eugen wrote: ↑Tue Jan 11, 2022 10:09 am I can see the desire to have it wider so the area gets cleaner with fewer laps, but unless you have a really large area to clean, will one foot really make that much of a difference? I do dig the looks beefier looks though.

You could likely make up for the increased width with increased travel speed.

Also be careful with how much weight you add to the tractors front end and how far in front of the tractor the weight is. My 4016 struggles to lift my 44" Berco but lifts my 48" snowcaster just fine. I think the Berco sits farther forward than the snowcaster. I've seen other people mention this issue with the Berco on the old site.

You could likely make up for the increased width with increased travel speed.

I hope you meant "lack of increased width" A wider caster on a small engined tractor often requires slower ground speed as the big caster loads up faster and beyond the smaller engines capacity without slowing down.

Also be careful with how much weight you add to the tractors front end and how far in front of the tractor the weight is. My 4016 struggles to lift my 44" Berco but lifts my 48" snowcaster just fine. I think the Berco sits farther forward than the snowcaster. I've seen other people mention this issue with the Berco on the old site.

It would be interesting to see the weight difference between the Case caster and the Berco. The Berco's impeller assembly and housing has to add quite a bit of weight. And the impeller pushes the whole thing farther out in front of the tractor.


Gordy

Eugen wrote: ↑Tue Jan 11, 2022 11:38 am

ssmewing wrote: ↑Tue Jan 11, 2022 11:09 am I ended up making 3 kits. But, that is it, no more this year.

I get pulled in too many directions sometimes. I come up with ideas and share them. Some guys can copy them, some need it to do for them.

Some cannot even wire a DPDT switch for motor reversing, which is not a common thing to do, really. But, there are a lot of details to get the right parts I guess.

Last year I was making 3 kits at a time. This year I am just trying to get to my own stuff.

Kits for what Steve? You do some good stuff, feel free to show us, it might inspire some to either buy from you or build stuff. Not myself at the moment, I can barely find time for the most necessary stuff.

Sorry, I am in many groups. Check my YouTube, eBay, and Facebook pages. Hemlock Case Guy.

I try to make it so that skilled guys can copy what I do. But, not all are good at wiring and welding.

And then my famous travel control linkage you can maybe copy some of it. But, there are a lot of little things I do to it. I have installed quite a few. So, improvements were made as I installed more of them. That and I buy the parts 100 at a time. So, you cannot save money when buying 1 or 2 of the parts yourselves. That is on eBay.

Gordy wrote: ↑Wed Jan 12, 2022 12:02 am

You could likely make up for the increased width with increased travel speed.

I hope you meant "lack of increased width" A wider caster on a small engined tractor often requires slower ground speed as the big caster loads up faster and beyond the smaller engines capacity without slowing down.


Gordy

Yes "lack of increased width". Glad you were paying attention

Ok guys , protto type drawing . Quick adjust snow shoes with pavement wheels . Basic over sized foot on bottom mounted with shoulder bolts to allow movement . Steel rod welded to the shoe back to hold in down when needed . Top of rod goes through cam backer for stability. Simple cam at top (out of snow ) to raise and lower snow shoe as needed . Drawn on caster but idea when perfected could go on blower or plow blade .
Thoughts , possible problems , or other suggestions ??

Dave

Simple is good. I'd make sure the cam/lever is not susceptible to coming lose due to vibrations.

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Fri Jan 14, 2022 3:51 pm 20220114_150750.jpg

Ok guys , protto type drawing . Quick adjust snow shoes with pavement wheels . Basic over sized foot on bottom mounted with shoulder bolts to allow movement . Steel rod welded to the shoe back to hold in down when needed . Top of rod goes through cam backer for stability. Simple cam at top (out of snow ) to raise and lower snow shoe as needed . Drawn on caster but idea when perfected could go on blower or plow blade .
Thoughts , possible problems , or other suggestions ??

Dave

@DavidBarkey are you thinking of adding something to protect it when cutting through an old bank, hard drift, or getting to close to something? Or do you think it will be strong enough? Obviously, we can't push to hard of stuff with these casters.

Timj wrote: ↑Sun Jan 16, 2022 3:37 pm

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Fri Jan 14, 2022 3:51 pm 20220114_150750.jpg

Ok guys , protto type drawing . Quick adjust snow shoes with pavement wheels . Basic over sized foot on bottom mounted with shoulder bolts to allow movement . Steel rod welded to the shoe back to hold in down when needed . Top of rod goes through cam backer for stability. Simple cam at top (out of snow ) to raise and lower snow shoe as needed . Drawn on caster but idea when perfected could go on blower or plow blade .
Thoughts , possible problems , or other suggestions ??

Dave

@DavidBarkey are you thinking of adding something to protect it when cutting through an old bank, hard drift, or getting to close to something? Or do you think it will be strong enough? Obviously, we can't push to hard of stuff with these casters.

@Timj Good point , Had not thought about that . A small set of extensions / or deflectors ,would do that I think .

Dave

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sun Jan 16, 2022 4:07 pm

Timj wrote: ↑Sun Jan 16, 2022 3:37 pm

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Fri Jan 14, 2022 3:51 pm 20220114_150750.jpg

Ok guys , protto type drawing . Quick adjust snow shoes with pavement wheels . Basic over sized foot on bottom mounted with shoulder bolts to allow movement . Steel rod welded to the shoe back to hold in down when needed . Top of rod goes through cam backer for stability. Simple cam at top (out of snow ) to raise and lower snow shoe as needed . Drawn on caster but idea when perfected could go on blower or plow blade .
Thoughts , possible problems , or other suggestions ??

Dave

@DavidBarkey are you thinking of adding something to protect it when cutting through an old bank, hard drift, or getting to close to something? Or do you think it will be strong enough? Obviously, we can't push to hard of stuff with these casters.

@Timj Good point , Had not thought about that . A small set of extensions / or deflectors ,would do that I think .

Dave

I was thinking about it when I was in my seat today. I think for most of us fresh snow would never bother.
I like your idea.

I thought the drawing was for gravel/pavement quick switch shoes height. Now I'm confused

Eugen wrote: ↑Sun Jan 16, 2022 4:29 pm I thought the drawing was for gravel/pavement quick switch shoes height. Now I'm confused

just looking at protecting it, as it would protrude beyond the caster housing.

I see

make strong apparatus! Protection for weak

Dave, I think your on to something. Your drawing reminds me of a table lever latch for on the bottom of a kitchen table when you want to spread it out for leafs. But a beefier version. Just need a lock of some sort and your in business. Might as well make some wings while your at it. Would give the mechanism protection having them as a plus.

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ok, you guys are so serious, I should be too. Good idea to protect the mechanism.

Still, Dave, have you thought of a way to lock the position in place?

Eugen wrote: ↑Mon Jan 17, 2022 9:14 am ok, you guys are so serious, I should be too. Good idea to protect the mechanism.

Still, Dave, have you thought of a way to lock the position in place?

I am thinking a self locking nut onto a nylon washer with enough drag to keep the cam from moving but still allow movement .

Dave

This gel spray from WD-40 is what I've been using on my Snow Caster drive chain.

Keep the Peace
Harry

Harry wrote: ↑Mon Jan 17, 2022 11:14 am This gel spray from WD-40 is what I've been using on my Snow Caster drive chain.

Keep the Peace
Harry

I take it that it work good .

Dave

I picked up this chain lubricate from Walmart the other day and see how it works on the caster chain.

Keep the Peace
Harry

That's what I used on the motorcycle many years Harry, great product! Sadly I can no longer find it locally.

I thought I had already posted this, but after looking in the thread I guess not!
I've been trying to change the stock chute profile for awhile now. I originally added to the height of the chute but then it didn't snow to try it out. A few weeks ago the snow came and I tried it. Definitely more distance throwing the snow but it was not accurate in where it went.
Next I added an electric motor to rotate the chute. After working the bugs out I'm satisfied with using it, which is far better than the crank was.
I changed the curve of the chute a bit to help in directing the snow better. I tried again the other day but the snow was very light and it just created a blizzard in front of the tractor.
I have a linear actuator to add to the chute deflector, but have not come up with a way to mount it so it doesn't bind the deflector. More back to the drawing board here.
I had the wife take some pic's with my phone a few days ago and needless to say they didn't capture the best view.
A few more adjustments and I think I'll be happy with the snow caster.
I must say that it is one powerful machine for throwing snow a good forty plus feet at full throttle. Most of the time I run at half throttle in low gear, about 2500 rpm and it does a good job. It even would eat slowly into the snow banks out front where the snow plows leave it.
I'll post some pics when it's completed and everyone will get the idea of the changes.

Keep the Peace
Harry

I'm waiting for some parts for my Winter Project 444, so the last few days I was busy finishing my snow caster chute modifications.
A little narrative about what I did over a period of time.
My first change was to cut the chute apart at the seam of the ring where it spins.
Then a took a piece of 16-gauge sheet metal and formed it into a U shape. The U-shaped piece was 24" long by the dimension of the curved piece of the chute bottom.
Welded the bottom of the U-shaped piece to the ring of the original chute.
Then welded the top of the U shape piece to the bottom of the original curved chute.
Tried it out in the snow and it gave better throwing distance, but also created a blizzard in front of the tractor.
Next, I cut a triangular notch out of the center of the U shaped piece on both sides.
This created more of a curve to the chute.
Tried it out and the distance of thrown snow was about the same but more of an even flow and less blizzard effect.
Then I added some sides to the chute to fill in the areas at the bottom of the chute.
This was the ticket to less blizzard effect.
I noticed the worm gear was getting full of snow and ice when I rotated the chute to the right.
I was thinking of creating a guard to protect the worm gear.
Jancoe a member here had a little shelf on the bottom of his chute, so I added a shelf.
Now there is hardly any snow to try it out but I think it will meet my expectations.
I hope everyone will understand my narrative. If not the pics should help in the explanation.
PS: I also in the process fine tuned the chute rotator and linear actuator of the chute deflector. Both appear to be working great!

Keep the Peace
Harry

Interesting. Thanks Harry.


Noel

THanks Harry and Jancoe . I will be incorporating what you guys have done in my caster as soon as I can bring it into the shop . It is currently frozen to the floor in the lean too off the back of the shop . That last melt and freeze left some flooding on the back wall I didn't realize until I went to move it .

Dave

Can not remember if anyone has addressed this or not . But Where the caster body and the chute base meet there is a sudden gap between the auger and the housing . In my mind this will reduce the effectiveness of the auger throwing paddle. This is my solution . Still have to clean up the welds and install wiper, but should extend the throwing area a bit.

Dave

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Mon Mar 21, 2022 8:04 am Can not remember if anyone has addressed this or not . But Where the caster body and the chute base meet there is a sudden gap between the auger and the housing . In my mind this will reduce the effectiveness of the auger throwing paddle.
20220320_141614.jpg20220320_154729.jpg
This is my solution . Still have to clean up the welds and install wiper, but should extend the throwing area a bit.

Dave

I saw this similar gap on my caster David when I was checking my wiper. I figured the paddle was always pushing the snow out and away from the gap, so I left it alone.

Keep the Peace
Harry

I didn't think the gap hurt but certainly fixing it will not hurt either and it looks neater!

Harry wrote: ↑Mon Mar 21, 2022 9:10 am

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Mon Mar 21, 2022 8:04 am Can not remember if anyone has addressed this or not . But Where the caster body and the chute base meet there is a sudden gap between the auger and the housing . In my mind this will reduce the effectiveness of the auger throwing paddle.
20220320_141614.jpg20220320_154729.jpg
This is my solution . Still have to clean up the welds and install wiper, but should extend the throwing area a bit.

Dave

I saw this similar gap on my caster David when I was checking my wiper. I figured the paddle was always pushing the snow out and away from the gap, so I left it alone.

Keep the Peace
Harry

My thoughts are the snow is being thrown through centrifugal force and that force is still there at that point . Don't know if I am over thinking it yet . Hopefully i can get enough done to try it out before all the snows gone .

Dave

Dave,
As they say, I know enough about aerodynamics and hydrodynamics to be dangerous I hope it works for you, BUT.

I would have left it alone. You may run into problems with wet sticky snow now having more surface to stick to and causing plugging issues. The original lip location reduces the surface area and the hole behind it allows the snow moving past the hole to draw in air, which acts as as a lubricant by providing a boundary layer between the chute and snow.


Gordy

I am going to install a ramble here. I don’t know any thing about anything. Just wanted to get that out of the way first. But I have to sort of agree with Gordy. That opening would allow air in there. So in order for any thing to flow out of something, it has to have air coming in so it does not create a vacuum and slow the flow down. Like a fan moving air, the fan has to be able to get air from behind its self in order to push air out. Now this may only work in these throwers if the snow is fluffy and dry. That hole maybe covered over in wet or damp snow conditions. So I could be very wrong in what I’m saying in this ramble. But those openings are there for some reason. ? My Massey Ferguson snow throwers have that opening too. I’ll get a picture soon.
That completes my ramble on this for now. Have a good day gentlemen.

Noel

I left mine open Dave, when I rebuilt mine.
I thought along the same line as the others and did not change that. I almost welded out the chute base to the auger housing but chose not to so no water would stand and had run off. I have another idea I'm going to add to my caster. The three tabs to support and hold the chute will be made differently and follow the chute more. There will be uhmw pads on it also. I would have also tightened up the chute base just a hair to add a thin uhmw ring glued to the top outside edge so the chute ring fits tighter. I don't like how sloppy the ring is on these casters. I've had a few of these casters and they are all just as sloppy as the next there. I hammered the chute base out to stretch the metal to make it a little tighter there so it spins smoother back and forth. Dont forget to cut 2 more slots on each side for more rotation.

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Couple of pictures of my MF snowthrowers. Not great pictures, but I think you can get the idea.


Noel

Ya you guys might be right . I won't know till I try it . Worst case is I cut it out and grind it clean again .

Dave

My Berco has air gaps on the chute too. Try it and see how it works

Here are the pics of my Berco. I'm on my phone so the pics are not resized. @Eugen does the forum automatically resize pictures?

The white crap in the chute is the remains of a white rag I ran over while blowing...

MattA wrote: ↑Mon Mar 21, 2022 9:19 pm @Eugen does the forum automatically resize pictures?

Yes, it's one of the first things I had to figure out. As long as you have the bandwidth you don't have to worry about the size.

Life is like a mountain railroad you know.

@Harry Adding a taper to the chute seems to help direct the snow better. Jancoe did this... so did grumy on the old forum. He has some videos on youtube too.

MattA wrote: ↑Mon Mar 21, 2022 9:49 pm @Harry Adding a taper to the chute seems to help direct the snow better. Jancoe did this... so did grumy on the old forum. He has some videos on youtube too.

I have a smaller diameter but taller heavy metal chute am going to do similar to that like they did .

Dave

Chain guides . Made from uhmw plastic and bolted in place .
Set the auger as close to the shell as the adjuster will get it . New piece of chain and the larger sprocket and the guide take up the slack and keep the chain from slapping the housing .

Dave

I don't know Dave, doesn't the plastic add some friction?

I'd have thought you'll tension the chain with an idle sprocket on spring loaded arm.

Eugen wrote: ↑Tue Mar 22, 2022 2:11 pm I don't know Dave, doesn't the plastic add some friction?

I'd have thought you'll tension the chain with an idle sprocket on spring loaded arm.

I looked in to it and there is not enough room . This is is a bearing material and when wet(snow) is supper slippery and has a very high wear factor .

Dave

There would be friction hp loss no matter what you put in there. A good hardwood block like Apple ,or what ever you like, would work good. Just my ramble.


Noel

Well, I wouldn't go that far Noel.

Noel

Nice work Dave. My Berco has similar chain guides. I think they are plastic and spring loaded on the non tension side of the chain. If you want I can get pictures. Might have to wait for the weekend.

MattA wrote: ↑Tue Mar 22, 2022 8:17 pm Nice work Dave. My Berco has similar chain guides. I think they are plastic and spring loaded on the non tension side of the chain. If you want I can get pictures. Might have to wait for the weekend.

That would be great Matt . All ideas are good .

Dave

That umhw material seems to have pretty magical properties. but the cheapest source I can find is ebay, and is not that cheap either. Dave, any local source?

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Mar 23, 2022 11:31 am That umhw material seems to have pretty magical properties. but the cheapest source I can find is ebay, and is not that cheap either. Dave, any local source?

Ya my back room . What I got , I got from guy who worked at Franke's in Midlland . When they did a change over on the stamping line they through out a whole pile of it . I got a bunch of him for $10 .

Dave

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Mar 23, 2022 3:00 pm

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Mar 23, 2022 11:31 am That umhw material seems to have pretty magical properties. but the cheapest source I can find is ebay, and is not that cheap either. Dave, any local source?

Ya my back room . What I got , I got from guy who worked at Franke's in Midlland . When they did a change over on the stamping line they through out a whole pile of it . I got a bunch of him for $10 .

Dave

I'll attempt to do it with a sprocket, and if I fail, I might come begging for a little piece

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Mar 23, 2022 3:47 pm

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Mar 23, 2022 3:00 pm

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Mar 23, 2022 11:31 am That umhw material seems to have pretty magical properties. but the cheapest source I can find is ebay, and is not that cheap either. Dave, any local source?

Ya my back room . What I got , I got from guy who worked at Franke's in Midlland . When they did a change over on the stamping line they through out a whole pile of it . I got a bunch of him for $10 .

Dave

I'll attempt to do it with a sprocket, and if I fail, I might come begging for a little piece

No begging needed .

Dave

Send me your mailing address and I can send you a piece of hardwood Eugen.

You pay the shipping.



Noel

Propane57 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 23, 2022 8:02 pm Send me your mailing address and I can send you a piece of hardwood Eugen.

You pay the shipping.



Noel

yeah, I cut several ash trees but I don't think it's enough. Send me some of that special PEI hardwood please!

Noel

A heavy steel fork and some and made a collar extension for the chute . A bit of welding and grinding done and then I was done for the day .
[attachment=1]20220323_100338.jpg[/attachment

Dave

Little more done today . Hopefully I can get it done enough to do a test drive before all the snow is gone .

Dave

So what is the diameter of that chute Dave. 6” or 8”, looks great. I’m sure you have checked , but I’ll ask any way. With the thrower down and chute straight ahead, will the engine bonnet open all the way to its rest with out hitting the chute. ?


Noel

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 3:47 pm Little more done today .
20220324_151324.jpg
20220324_151342.jpg

Hopefully I can get it done enough to do a test drive before all the snow is gone .

Dave

Looks great David. It should be a positive change.

Keep the Peace
Harry

Propane57 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 3:53 pm So what is the diameter of that chute Dave. 6” or 8”, looks great. I’m sure you have checked , but I’ll ask any way. With the thrower down and chute straight ahead, will the engine bonnet open all the way to its rest with out hitting the chute. ?


Noel

It looks similar to Jancoe's and mine Eugen. I checked mine with it on the machine and It does clear the hood with it all the way open.

Keep the Peace
Harry

Propane57 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 3:53 pm So what is the diameter of that chute Dave. 6” or 8”, looks great. I’m sure you have checked , but I’ll ask any way. With the thrower down and chute straight ahead, will the engine bonnet open all the way to its rest with out hitting the chute. ?


Noel

8" at bottom and 6" at top . This is for the 446 blower project . Hood and grill are split and hood opens the other way like a car . No clearance problems .

Dave

Harry wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 4:19 pm

Propane57 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 3:53 pm So what is the diameter of that chute Dave. 6” or 8”, looks great. I’m sure you have checked , but I’ll ask any way. With the thrower down and chute straight ahead, will the engine bonnet open all the way to its rest with out hitting the chute. ?


Noel

It looks similar to Jancoe's and mine Eugen. I checked mine with it on the machine and It does clear the hood with it all the way open.

Keep the Peace
Harry

I will be putting a dual axes joy stick in it to run the chute controls like you guys did . I need it to drive like a video game so my grandson will do the driveway .

Dave

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 4:35 pm

Propane57 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 3:53 pm So what is the diameter of that chute Dave. 6” or 8”, looks great. I’m sure you have checked , but I’ll ask any way. With the thrower down and chute straight ahead, will the engine bonnet open all the way to its rest with out hitting the chute. ?


Noel

8" at bottom and 6" at top . This is for the 446 blower project . Hood and grill are split and hood opens the other way like a car . No clearance problems .

Dave

Ahhh, that sounds good. And the 6” at the top will make it work.
I wonder thou, if you closed off some of the chute opening at the 8” outlet. Would it help, I kinda did a temporary one on one of my casters. And it seems to help, but didn’t get to use it enough or get to modify it any to see any difference.


Noel

I knew that after I read your post about the bonnet opening like a car. I read things then can’t remember. I post stuff on different forms or sites or what ever they are, then can’t remember what I said, where I posted it, and what I read from other people. Hehe.

Noel.

Looks good @DavidBarkey. Now that you have that taller lip on the front, what doesn't make it up and out is gonna fall back down. Build yourself an auger shield on the front center to help send back what didn't make it and stop the spray coming out the front of the caster. You WILL notice a difference in a cleaner finished path. My new chute I made the top deflector 5" wide I believe.

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Propane57 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 4:51 pm

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 4:35 pm

Propane57 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 3:53 pm So what is the diameter of that chute Dave. 6” or 8”, looks great. I’m sure you have checked , but I’ll ask any way. With the thrower down and chute straight ahead, will the engine bonnet open all the way to its rest with out hitting the chute. ?


Noel

8" at bottom and 6" at top . This is for the 446 blower project . Hood and grill are split and hood opens the other way like a car . No clearance problems .

Dave

Ahhh, that sounds good. And the 6” at the top will make it work.
I wonder thou, if you closed off some of the chute opening at the 8” outlet. Would it help, I kinda did a temporary one on one of my casters. And it seems to help, but didn’t get to use it enough or get to modify it any to see any difference.


Noel

I would be afraid that if a larger chunk of hard snow hit it , it cause damage . Has anyone else tried closing off part of the chute and had time to test it ?

Dave

Jancoe wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 10:05 pm Looks good @DavidBarkey. Now that you have that taller lip on the front, what doesn't make it up and out is gonna fall back down. Build yourself an auger shield on the front center to help send back what didn't make it and stop the spray coming out the front of the caster. You WILL notice a difference in a cleaner finished path. My new chute I made the top deflector 5" wide I believe.

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Yes , the deflector is part of the plan . Just haven't got that far yet . Jancoe , When you put your deflector on did you address the lip the top edge makes ?

Dave

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 4:41 pm

Harry wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 4:19 pm

Propane57 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 3:53 pm So what is the diameter of that chute Dave. 6” or 8”, looks great. I’m sure you have checked , but I’ll ask any way. With the thrower down and chute straight ahead, will the engine bonnet open all the way to its rest with out hitting the chute. ?


Noel

It looks similar to Jancoe's and mine Eugen. I checked mine with it on the machine and It does clear the hood with it all the way open.

Keep the Peace
Harry

I will be putting a dual axes joy stick in it to run the chute controls like you guys did . I need it to drive like a video game so my grandson will do the driveway .

Dave

David I used momentary toggle switches for mine. One for the chute rotator and another for the deflector. I'll take a pic and post it if I remember!

Keep the Peace
Harry

@DavidBarkey Here is my Berco's main chain tensioner. I think the Berco has a second chain tensioner on the auger drive chain. If you want to see any more pictures, let me know.

Here's the Berco's drive system.

@DavidBarkey Are you referring to how I mounted it with the lips on the backside of the housing? The nuts are hidden and you can't see them.

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Jancoe wrote: ↑Fri Mar 25, 2022 5:12 pm @DavidBarkey Are you referring to how I mounted it with the lips on the backside of the housing? The nuts are hidden and you can't see them.

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Not sure how to put it into word I will take pic. tomorrow of the area I mean .
Dave

@MattA I have worked on those Berco blowers . I have seen that setup ,they work very well .

Dave

@Jancoe This is the lip I mean .


Dave

Dave, my sb48 caster does not have that lip welded on it. That is between the chute opening and the top flange running along the housing correct?

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Jancoe wrote: ↑Sun Mar 27, 2022 5:37 pm Dave, my sb48 caster does not have that lip welded on it. That is between the chute opening and the top flange running along the housing correct?

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Yes sir . This is an older caster . L-84 I beleave , but could be wrong . Can't read the tag. I have not dealt with a lot of Case casters so not positive on how to identify models .

Dave

Todays work before I had to stop and do my domestic duties
Hope to have the lift rod and cams done tomorrow .

Dave

How much clearance there Dave with those. ?
Hehehehe, domestic duties.

And in that picture, I can see what looks like your auger sprocket is much smaller than mine. But I get picture tomorrow and see for sure.


Noel

I always thought an idler sprocket to take up the slack in the chain would be a good idea. I just haven't got into the engineering of it! What are your ideas of that!

Keep the Peace
Harry

You would think that if it needed one the Case designers would have put one there. Neither of my Case throwers have any chain idlers. My John Deere snow thrower does have a sprocket chain idler. My Ford thrower has a plastic chain idler. So do the Case ones need one. Or not. ? Hard to say.


Noel

Noel, when the chain gets old it gets loose. The way the Case engineers designed it is so that you undo the bolts on one side and rotate the auger holding bracket, which is excentric, hopefully to the next hole. Due to its eccentricity, that will move one side of the auger away from the tractor and tighten the chain. You can already see the problem right? The auger moved away from the housing will reduce the efficiency of snow throwing. I found an old post of Tom Arnold, getting really worked out on this. His point was, the chain is so cheap, why ever use this poorly designed adjustment when you can just replace the chain every few years at a minimal cost?!

Yes I knew how to adjust the chain Eugen. And the designers made it that way for adjustment. The augers on my John Deere and Ford are fixed in one position. So you can’t not get the auger any closer to the bucket. And you have to change chains on these too over time. But you can adjust the idlers on these to tighten the chain slop. Just a different way of doing it on the Case ones. When you get to the end of adjustment. On any of them. You have to take a link out of the chain or replace it. I really don’t think it would make that much noticeable throwing difference on the Case throwers if there is a little gap. Just my ramble. I’ll look at my others just for fun and see what the gap is. I’m going to have to use one of them today. Snowed all nite.

Noel

Propane57 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 29, 2022 7:30 pm How much clearance there Dave with those. ?
Hehehehe, domestic duties.

And in that picture, I can see what looks like your auger sprocket is much smaller than mine. But I get picture tomorrow and see for sure.


Noel

I will be able to go from 1/8" to 7/8" to 1 3/8" depth. with the cam levers

Dave

Harry wrote: ↑Tue Mar 29, 2022 7:57 pm I always thought an idler sprocket to take up the slack in the chain would be a good idea. I just haven't got into the engineering of it! What are your ideas of that!

Keep the Peace
Harry

That is the way I was going to go but when I relaised that it was going to be so small that the bearing would be going ultra high rpms and failures would be a problem . The housing would need some reworking to do it properly . If I had another housing I might try it latter , but I have enough to do right now just finishing this one and getting it out of the shop. If you guys want to try it I will go through what I was thinking.

Dave

Propane57 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 29, 2022 8:21 pm You would think that if it needed one the Case designers would have put one there. Neither of my Case throwers have any chain idlers. My John Deere snow thrower does have a sprocket chain idler. My Ford thrower has a plastic chain idler. So do the Case ones need one. Or not. ? Hard to say.


Noel

The newer design uses an adjustable bearing on the shaft sprocket and the auger is fixed in one spot .

Like in the parts diagram .

Dave

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Mar 30, 2022 6:59 am

Propane57 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 29, 2022 8:21 pm You would think that if it needed one the Case designers would have put one there. Neither of my Case throwers have any chain idlers. My John Deere snow thrower does have a sprocket chain idler. My Ford thrower has a plastic chain idler. So do the Case ones need one. Or not. ? Hard to say.


Noel

The newer design uses an adjustable bearing on the shaft sprocket and the auger is fixed in one spot .

image.png

Like in the parts diagram .

Dave

My caster is like the one you showed, but by moving the sprocket shaft it only tightens it a little. There are three different positions.

Keep the Peace
Harry

Harry wrote: ↑Wed Mar 30, 2022 7:48 am

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Mar 30, 2022 6:59 am

Propane57 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 29, 2022 8:21 pm You would think that if it needed one the Case designers would have put one there. Neither of my Case throwers have any chain idlers. My John Deere snow thrower does have a sprocket chain idler. My Ford thrower has a plastic chain idler. So do the Case ones need one. Or not. ? Hard to say.


Noel

The newer design uses an adjustable bearing on the shaft sprocket and the auger is fixed in one spot .

image.png

Like in the parts diagram .

Dave

My caster is like the one you showed, but by moving the sprocket shaft it only tightens it a little. There are three different positions.

Keep the Peace
Harry

I will take a couple of pic. with card board on my caster to illustrate what I see it needs to do it right .


Dave

Propane57 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 29, 2022 7:30 pm How much clearance there Dave with those. ?
Hehehehe, domestic duties.

And in that picture, I can see what looks like your auger sprocket is much smaller than mine. But I get picture tomorrow and see for sure.


Noel

is the only one working right now . Sooo I have to do more around the house until I am able to start working again . Hopefully soon , things are improving . But still have limitations .

Dave

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Mar 30, 2022 6:54 am That is the way I was going to go but when I relaised that it was going to be so small that the bearing would be going ultra high rpms and failures would be a problem . The housing would need some reworking to do it properly . If I had another housing I might try it latter , but I have enough to do right now just finishing this one and getting it out of the shop. If you guys want to try it I will go through what I was thinking.

Dave

Why worry about rpm, I don't think it would go past 5000 in that position. Most bearings have 20000 rom limit. Am I missing something?

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Mar 30, 2022 8:48 am

Propane57 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 29, 2022 7:30 pm How much clearance there Dave with those. ?
Hehehehe, domestic duties.

And in that picture, I can see what looks like your auger sprocket is much smaller than mine. But I get picture tomorrow and see for sure.


Noel

is the only one working right now . Sooo I have to do more around the house until I am able to start working again . Hopefully soon , things are improving . But still have limitations .

Dave

I understand Dave. Just foolin with ya. And I like using that wife emoji. Hehe.


Noel

So when I fixed up the caster K84-77 that’s on the 446, I took a link out of the chain and had to adjust auger as close to the bucket as the adjustment would allow to get the chain to fit. Chain fit nice. Very little slack. So at this position the auger is about a 1/4” away from the bucket. The Ford thrower is about the same. The John Deere auger is a good 1/2” away from the bucket. These measurements are not the throwing paddle, but the auger to back of bucket measurement. John Deere throws fine.


Noel

So then, are we fixing something that isn't actually broken?

Nope not fixing any thing, just rambling. This thrower I’m talking about on the 446 is one I fixed up last fall, before I was a member here. Just giving measurements that I said I would give.



Noel

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Mar 30, 2022 8:54 am

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Mar 30, 2022 6:54 am That is the way I was going to go but when I relaised that it was going to be so small that the bearing would be going ultra high rpms and failures would be a problem . The housing would need some reworking to do it properly . If I had another housing I might try it latter , but I have enough to do right now just finishing this one and getting it out of the shop. If you guys want to try it I will go through what I was thinking.

Dave

Why worry about rpm, I don't think it would go past 5000 in that position. Most bearings have 20000 rom limit. Am I missing something?

The smaller the sprocket the smaller the bearing which will increase the RPM of the sprocket and the surface speed of the bearings inners . I calculated that it would take a #40 - 6T sprocket to fit in there without a lot of modifications .It would be turning about 7000 RPM . The bearing in so small , it would not hold up and it would have to be made . No one has a sprocket idler that small for #40 chain .


Dave

Propane57 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 30, 2022 10:24 am Nope not fixing any thing, just rambling. This thrower I’m talking about on the 446 is one I fixed up last fall, before I was a member here. Just giving measurements that I said I would give.



Noel

Thanks , it is always good to compair notes .

Dave

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Mar 30, 2022 11:32 am

The smaller the sprocket the smaller the bearing which will increase the RPM of the sprocket and the surface speed of the bearings inners . I calculated that it would take a #40 - 6T sprocket to fit in there without a lot of modifications .It would be turning about 7000 RPM . The bearing in so small , it would not hold up and it would have to be made . No one has a sprocket idler that small for #40 chain .


Dave

Ideally you'd want the same size sprocket as the jackshaft but if there's not enough space for that, yes, the RPM will be very high. And one more bearing to worry about maintaining. I hope the umhw material can last reasonable time.

what I got done today . cam in down position for 1 1/4" cutting edge clearance cam in up position for 1/8" cutting edge clearance I can go from 1/8" cutting edge clearance to 1 1/4" clearance in seconds . It will take longer to get out of the cab than to switch heights nut will allow me to switch from grass/ gravel to hardscape quickly . If it works well I might put the cams on servo motor so I don't have to get out of the cab .

Dave

if he can dream it, he can build it.
Very nice Dave

Timj wrote: ↑Wed Mar 30, 2022 5:17 pm if he can dream it, he can build it.
Very nice Dave

Thanks Tim

You definitely have a mechanical mind that I don't. I can't figure out how the mechanism works from the pictures. Nicely done!

That’s a great thing Dave. First quick thought is power window motors with eccentric things on them some how.


Noel

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Mar 30, 2022 5:25 pm You definitely have a mechanical mind that I don't. I can't figure out how the mechanism works from the pictures. Nicely done!

The cams hold the shoes at full up or full down via the support rod . Each pic. show in up or down mode .

Dave

Oh, now that you say cam I get it. For some reason I was thinking the rod is tightly connected to the cam lobe/ring, but it just rests on it right?

Eugen wrote: ↑Thu Mar 31, 2022 9:27 am Oh, now that you say cam I get it. For some reason I was thinking the rod is tightly connected to the cam lobe/ring, but it just rests on it right?

Tried it out today . Work as I wanted .

Dave

Harry wrote: ↑Wed Mar 30, 2022 7:48 am

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Mar 30, 2022 6:59 am

Propane57 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 29, 2022 8:21 pm You would think that if it needed one the Case designers would have put one there. Neither of my Case throwers have any chain idlers. My John Deere snow thrower does have a sprocket chain idler. My Ford thrower has a plastic chain idler. So do the Case ones need one. Or not. ? Hard to say.


Noel

The newer design uses an adjustable bearing on the shaft sprocket and the auger is fixed in one spot .

image.png

Like in the parts diagram .

Dave

My caster is like the one you showed, but by moving the sprocket shaft it only tightens it a little. There are three different positions.

Keep the Peace
Harry

Harry here is the simplest way to do an idler . Spring loaded would be more involved . That is a standard idler for a #40 chain . It i s about 3" in Dia.

Hopes this helps
Dave

Hey Dave- Maybe I missed this but why not use the adjustment mechanism from the newer SB48 snowcasters?

Because I’m new to Case’s, what would that be.
Pictures.


Noel

MattA wrote:Hey Dave- Maybe I missed this but why not use the adjustment mechanism from the newer SB48 snowcasters?

Was thinking the same thing. Then while your at it, use the old auger adjustment system to bring the auger as close to the housing possible and then tighten the chain like the sb48. I've had an older case caster with my 4000 series. I swapped the mule drive around. Then I got my hands on my current sb48 which was correct for my tractor. I like the chain adjuster better then the older auger adjustment. This sb48 was in way better condition.

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Noel, here's the sb48 chain adjuster.

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Ahh. I see now. Thanks Jancoe.


Noel

MattA wrote: ↑Thu Mar 31, 2022 8:13 pm Hey Dave- Maybe I missed this but why not use the adjustment mechanism from the newer SB48 snowcasters?

@MattA
Harry has one with the multi hole adjustment , but said there is not enough adjustment .
This was an option I considered before going with the uhmw guides .

Dave

Dave - This is the adjustment mechanism. It moves the shaft. The adjustment is done by loosening the nuts holding the shaft bearing and then adjusting the tension on the adjuster and tightening it all back up. The top bearing bolt passes through the square hole in C29788.

#3 is C29877 - Appears to be NLA
#5 is 129-163 3/8-24 lock nut

Guys, this thread has been very informative, thank you all for your input.

@MattA I think part can be easily fabricated out of a similar size bolt. Probably more difficult to fabricate the bracket that holds the bearing in place.

#3 is C29877 - Appears to be NLA

Easy build Cut the head off a bolt or use a piece of allthread, and weld on a large diameter fender washer And maybe a little grinding.


Gordy

If you look up "square hole washer" you will find many. Get one of those and weld it to some thread.

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Looks like part C29877 gets connected to the square bracket for the jackshaft bearing, number 29 in the parts manual. There are two square holes on the bracket and I think C29877 fits with the upper square hole. I thought the bracket was more complicated, but it doesn't seem so at all. This would be a pretty simple modification. But it's adjustable only one one side? That skews the jackshaft somewhat, right?

Eugene, the sb48 does not have part 29. They only have 2 holes for the bearing flange on the housing. The bottom hole is fixed and top hole is slotted along with the hole for the bearing and flange. So you just have the 2 flanges, bearing, with the driveshaft. Then weld on a tab with hole on the back of the caster and and you have your chain adjuster. I have a spare c29877 that I don't need. Measurements are center of square hole to end of 3/8-24 threads is 2 1/2" if you want to make your own.

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Eugen - My SB48 snowcaster also does not have part 29. The shaft bearing is held between two flanges. The bearing and adjustment screw are held in place by a pair of carriage bolts.

The best part that has come from this last part of the thread is there seams to be at least 4 ways to address slack in the chain . Multi-hole sprocket adjustment . Threaded rod / slotted housing . Idler sprocket . Uhmw plastic guides . Each has there own advantages and disadvantages depending on your situation . A good chain and proper tension will help the auger sprocket last a long time . Thats not an easy one to change . All the other parts are disposable in the grand scheme .

Dave

Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Apr 01, 2022 9:14 pm Looks like part C29877 gets connected to the square bracket for the jackshaft bearing, number 29 in the parts manual. There are two square holes on the bracket and I think C29877 fits with the upper square hole. I thought the bracket was more complicated, but it doesn't seem so at all. This would be a pretty simple modification. But it's adjustable only one one side? That skews the jackshaft somewhat, right?


Screen Shot 2022-04-01 at 20.59.10.png

Eugen - The manual I am looking at is 8-3073. Snowcasters start on page 26.

While I've got the manual open, here are some better screen shots. I'm just zooming in on the PDF and hitting "alt" and "PrtSc" at the same time. I post the picture here by clicking in this window and hitting "Ctrl" and "V" at the same time. The picture will appear after a few seconds. PrtSc is the print screen key.

@DavidBarkey right on, there are many ways to skin a cat. One of the great things about this place is how we exchange ideas and solutions and I have to tell you, the level of ingenuity and skill here is impressive to me.

@MattA You must have looked in a different manual, as the one I was looking in has the bracket and both mounting holes are elongated, not just the upper one. In fact I was wondering and even wrote half a message about "why have both holes elongated, when one was enough" but I gave up armchair speculating. Great tip about the "alt" and "PrtSc" and CTRL-V. This must be in Windows. I wonder if it is browser specific, so what browser did this work on, maybe it's helpful to others. I'm using a Mac, so something else might work.

My Chromebook does not have a "PrtSc" button. But then, at 5 yo it is almost an antique and starting to act up probably need to get a new one soon Never figured out how to do a screen capture.


Gordy

Gordy wrote: ↑Sun Apr 03, 2022 3:27 pm My Chromebook does not have a "PrtSc" button. But then, at 5 yo it it almost an antique and starting to act up probably need to get a new one soon Never figured out how to do a screen capture.


Gordy

I have 1 year old chrome book and do not have PrtSc. button either


Dave

The screen capture and paste function are built in windows functions. I'm using firefox to browse the internet. Windows also has a snipping tool where you can just snip certain parts of your screen.

I'm not the most computer literate person. My son was in town a few years ago and I was putting together a welding report and every time I wanted to put in a temp, I would have to write out degrees. He told me if I hit certain keys at the same time it brings up the degree symbol. Since then, I forgot what keys they were so back to writing out degrees.

Keep the Peace
Harry

@Harry As an engineer I use this shortcut all the time. To enter the degree symbol hold down alt and type 0176 on the right keypad. I don't think this works with the numbers above the letters.

Dave any chance of some material or a rough scketch?

Hi Dave, if you did it again would you go that way or make the choice to move the sprocket back?

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 2:27 pm Hi Dave, if you did it again would you go that way or make the choice to move the sprocket back?

Would do it again, but somehow make it adjustable next time .

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 2:25 pm Dave any chance of some material or a rough scketch?

I have it back in the shop to fix muffler weld crack . while in there I will measure and draw the best I can and take a pic to upload .

Jancoe wrote: ↑Mon Mar 21, 2022 12:13 pm I left mine open Dave, when I rebuilt mine.
I thought along the same line as the others and did not change that. I almost welded out the chute base to the auger housing but chose not to so no water would stand and had run off. I have another idea I'm going to add to my caster. The three tabs to support and hold the chute will be made differently and follow the chute more. There will be uhmw pads on it also. I would have also tightened up the chute base just a hair to add a thin uhmw ring glued to the top outside edge so the chute ring fits tighter. I don't like how sloppy the ring is on these casters. I've had a few of these casters and they are all just as sloppy as the next there. I hammered the chute base out to stretch the metal to make it a little tighter there so it spins smoother back and forth. Dont forget to cut 2 more slots on each side for more rotation.

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Really very interested in your mods to the chute tabs and UHMW pads.. Have you progressed that at all?

I had put UHMW pads on the 2stage on Frankie but never did get them on the caster . With the auger trued up and really tight fit ( about 1/8" ) and then using chain guide to deal with chain slack and the whole thing painted up nice and shinny. I don't think I need it on the caster .

So, my thoughts are on the lines of coating the snow blower cute and perhaps the housing with plastic. My caster is a J84 model and I have multiple updates [planned for the spring/summer season so we shall see what I can get done this coming year. Whatever I work on I will document in the CAD section with drawings.

I don't think I've posted this already... a few years back I added an extra tooth to each side of my snowcaster chute. The template is made from cardboard and the extra teeth were added by rotating the template. I don't think you need to cut out all the template teeth like I did.

Matt, I did the same thing the same way (cardboard template) you did a few years ago, only I added 2 extra teeth on each side. I really like the extra rearward discharge, especially when I get to the end of the driveway.
Bob

Bob I never got around to trying more teeth. I wasn't sure how well the snowcaster would throw snow almost backwards. I've also got a berco which throws snow pretty good backwards.

That is an interesting modification and I will go for it too. I often would have liked to be able to blow the snow just a little more to one side or the other, slightly to the back. Thanks for the idea @MattA and @BobAfton

I also on this caster added an extra tooth each way . At the end of the drive it does make a diferrance .

Yes 2 extra on each side. That's what I did too. Don't forget that auger shield too. No more spraying snow out the front of the blower.

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I took Jancoe’s advice and both changes made a big difference. Harry

MattA wrote: ↑Fri Sep 24, 2021 7:12 am While I'm posting pictures, here are some pictures of my weight box. Unfortunately I can't use it with the behind the seat PTO installed (hits the PTO lines). I've also got 3 suitcase weights I hook into the hydravac mounting bracket on some stainless rods. I don't think I have any completed project pictures of that setup.

So is a weight box the way to go? For me I have a couple of wheel weights and chains but I know for a fact that is not enough.

So lets talk snow!! not really..now is the time after we have removed the snow caster to seriously start to strip it down and do those modifications that we have all planned. Not sure about you guys but my caster saw little to no action this past winter season (WNY) and got brought out twice throughout the season. That said my caster now needs all the TLC I can give it. Would you believe the less I use it the more care it needs...

So over the winter I have been collecting a few things, and reading a lot more, and listening to your advice, etc. I have a number of things that I need to take care of:
Sandblasting the shell and chute and all the other parts too. Repainting with a good quality epoxy primer followed by a few top coats of Power Red (or as one of the case dealers on Ebay keeps posting (powder red).

My plan is to:
!) Use the UHMW tape I bought over winter to coat the whole inside of the housing and also the chute.
2) Update the auger with rubber (I got a role of conveyor belt)
3) Change out the spiral (this is a J series) with a later spiral and shaft and add bushes to the contact points to the housing
4) Install new UHMW skids
5) Install a chain tensioner system (Really need help here)
6)Add an extra notch to each side of the chute to allow it to rotate further.
7) add motor to the chute rotation (I have the motor and already worked out an innovative attachment (Don't want to weld anything!)
8) Install a motor to control the chute deflector
9) Finalize the electrical circuit and install that to the GT and caster.

I am sure as I progress this there will be other things too.
I should point out I already have installed a 19 tooth jack shaft and new pulley, bearings, etc. and new pulleys, springs etc. on the carriage too.

Now for the help: Mainly on the chain tensioner... I like the tensioner of the newer SB caster but the parts are not available any longer Yes I could create my own (mainly the square hole tensioner bolt). MY other option is to use a tension block on the chain and for that I am considering UHMW (I have a couple of pieces 3 3/4 square and 7/8 thick. Obviously if I go the SB caster way their are no issues other than the parts but if I use UHMW does anyone have information/measurements/whatever?

My Berco uses spring loaded plastic chain tensioners that bolt in place. I think the replacements I installed were in the $5 range. Brian is a Berco dealer and should stock them.

Hi Matt, any chance of a pic< what you have described sounds very interesting?

ras101 wrote: ↑Sun Jun 04, 2023 8:42 pm Hi Matt, any chance of a pic< what you have described sounds very interesting?

Here are the chain tensioners I replaced. The new ones don't have grooves from the chain. I'll have to get you the part numbers another time. Feel free to remind me.

Hi Matt, you told me to remind you, so it's your fault , Any idea of the part numbers? Basically at this time of year I start gearing up for the winter season and my go to snow blower is in the shop now. This year it's getting new auger bearings, new chain, and work on the housing itself - new paint, etc. Ray

Here are the Berco chain tensioners. Both tensionsers use the same parts.
https://salempwr.com/103289/
https://salempwr.com/103291/
The tensioners are bolted in place. If you click on the parts diagram in each link, that will show you both tensioner setups.

Thank you Matt. At that price I am going to order a couple and see just how they will fit my casters. I am currently designing my caster upgrades so perfect timing!

ras101 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 10, 2023 4:03 pm

MattA wrote: ↑Fri Sep 24, 2021 7:12 am While I'm posting pictures, here are some pictures of my weight box. Unfortunately I can't use it with the behind the seat PTO installed (hits the PTO lines). I've also got 3 suitcase weights I hook into the hydravac mounting bracket on some stainless rods. I don't think I have any completed project pictures of that setup.

So is a weight box the way to go? For me I have a couple of wheel weights and chains but I know for a fact that is not enough.

Get a pair of old JD combine weights for the rear tires and end of traction problem.
Harry

Been a while... my health is not what it was when I was younger is my excuse... So still have my snow caster in the shop, and completely stripped down to just parts. I have ordered from Brian at SalemPwr Chain tensioner parts from a Berco but still not sure I will use that approach. The Parts were reasonably cheap so I thought I would check them out. I have also ordered "spade bolts" from Mc/Master Carr as an alternative to fabricate SB parts caster parts too. Let you know what I decide.

In the mean time my caster is being sandblasted and epoxy primed..

Ray

So in finally determining my "new to me" chain tension method i am looking at two alternatives - whatever I decide on will be fitted to both my J46 and L46 casters. My preferred method would be to move up to the SB standard but I am also very interested in the Berco model too. So I have ordered parts for both styles to check them out. I decided to order the Berco parts from SalemPwr and the Spade bolts from McMaster Carr but here's the twist The spade blts I ordered have a 1/4 inch thread not 3/8 so we shall see...

Had to replace my chute rotator motor the other day. I was fooling around trying to build a big hill of snow for the kids by placing all my snow from my large drive into one area. It's been bitter cold and had some ice jambs on the chute coil. A few times out blowing had to chip away at the ice again. Chewed up the plastic gears and now it's shot. I had another little motor laying around so I welded up a bracket to my existing mount. It's 120 rpms and does the job. All metal gears in this one. The old was 150rpms, which I think was a better speed and some black paint makes it look nice for now.

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