snow caster mods.

[DavidBarkey]

Has anyone ever tried lining the body and the shoot with uhmw plastic ? I put it on the fan of my two stage a couple of years back with great results especially in wet snow .
Dave

[Harry]

I painted my snow caster chute with some two part epoxy that my wife had purchased and never used. She was going to put it into the garbage. I rescued it and used it which was originally to be used on a bathtub or sink. I think it worked well but I did notice a chip in it probably from a small stone. Others ideas are always helpful. Thanks Dave!

Keep the Peace
Harry

[Eugen]

Has anyone ever tried lining the body and the shoot with uhmw plastic ? I put it on the fan of my two stage a couple of years back with great results especially in wet snow .
Dave

What kind of plastic are you talking about Dave? I wish I could coat all the inner surface of the snowcaster with Teflon!

My snowcaster is in "original" shape and it needs a proper overhaul. Here I go again about ball bearings and all

[Seabee]

Keep going guys! Snowcaster is on my next list.

Bill

[Timj]

Hoping it'll be a while before it snows, but I'm listening too. Unless I buy and mount a new plow, this will be my first winter with the Ingy as primary snow machine. Going to give the AHSB48 a little workout.

[DavidBarkey]

Has anyone ever tried lining the body and the shoot with uhmw plastic ? I put it on the fan of my two stage a couple of years back with great results especially in wet snow .
Dave

What kind of plastic are you talking about Dave? I wish I could coat all the inner surface of the snowcaster with Teflon!

My snowcaster is in "original" shape and it needs a proper overhaul. Here I go again about ball bearings and all

UHMW read this page guys .
https://www.curbellplastics.com/Researc ... rials/UHMW . Teflon as a coating is slippery except it is not very good in the abrasive wear department . Before I leaned about UHMW I use to make sure paint was good and smooth and then use skie wax for corn snow as it has good abrasive wear . I know from working in a pattern and mould shop years ago that it can be heat formed . As most of us do NOT have a vacuum forming machine
or access to one , the other option although slow and time of the year sensitive is to build solar oven and alow it to heat and cool to the shape of the part by gravity . A little help from a wooden form (plug)at the end to help press it in tight to the sides . ( Google forming plastic in a solar oven ).

Dave

[Timj]

I can see where that could really make a lasting upgrade to the caster. I think the caster body would be pretty simple to form and a few small fasteners to hold in place. The upper part of the shoot would only need a couple of half circles. I think this is very doable. You got my wheels turning, oh no another project .

The wear resistance of these plastics is outstanding. The cable guide on our drilling rigs originally used wood wear blocks. Good white oak wood last a couple of years. We tried some thick plastic we had found somewhere, not knowing how it would hold up. I know the first ones we tried are still on after twenty plus years and show minimal wear.
Tim

[Gordy]

I modified a L-80 form moving the auger to tighten the chain to the newer style of moving the small sprocket back and forth.This involves adjusting the auger all the way in, then slotting the hole for the bearing at the small sprocket and slotting the top bolt hole for the bearing mount. Then weld a plate behind the sprocket with a hole in it for an eye bolt that connects to the top bearing bolt to pull and hold it back. I believe this started with the S models, so lookupthat manual to better visualise it.

Also added the rubber paddle extensions.

Also gets a fresh coat of E-Z Slide graphite paint every fall.


Gordy

[Eugen]

Opened up the auger on mine. PO replaced the original bearing on one side with a 6205-RS, a little smaller OD than the original, and brass inner bushing but not a good fit

[ssmewing]

I modified a L-80 form moving the auger to tighten the chain to the newer style of moving the small sprocket back and forth.This involves adjusting the auger all the way in, then slotting the hole for the bearing at the small sprocket and slotting the top bolt hole for the bearing mount. Then weld a plate behind the sprocket with a hole in it for an eye bolt that connects to the top bearing bolt to pull and hold it back. I believe this started with the S models, so lookupthat manual to better visualise it.

Also added the rubber paddle extensions.

Also gets a fresh coat of E-Z Slide graphite paint every fall.


Gordy

Gordy has the right idea. In stock new condition the snow caster worked just great. This should be obvious by the fact that the only real change ever made is the one Gordy pointed out, the chain tensioner The auger must be as close to the housing as possible.

Case added a chain tensioner, problem solved. Well, except for good paint condition as the only other problem for well-used models. The Case paint with hardener is pretty durable and slippery, and it has already been invented.

Install all new bearings and idlers and it will run so quiet that you literally cannot tell if it is on. When I use mine I often forget to turn off the PTO and it is not until I go to use it again that I realize I left it on.