Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

You guys know I have a micro-shop made out of a 9x12 ft shed, with a small work bench on which I can do things that don't require much room. Together with this I have the tent which was used for storage, and I now use, in part, as an outdoor shop to be able to do a little work without being rained on. I've been always somewhat suffering from not enough light for work. In the shed and tent I had a of led light bulb each, equivalent to about 60 watts in terms of luminosity. Whenever I worked on something I needed to use a portable work light, but one thing annoying about those is that the light is so directional, casting strong shadows sometimes exactly where you need some light, and you constantly need to move them.

Hence, I've been thinking of solving this problem somehow, yet was not sure what would work. The other day I was in Costco and decided to have a look at what they have on the lighting aisle. They had these Koda LED Linkable Shop Light, 46 inch long, with a profile similar to the old style fluorescent lights; they come with a couple of 12" long chains to hook them on something above. Here are the product features:

• link up to 8 of them together
• 4600 lumens
• claimed to last for 50000 hours
• remote control
• a few levels of brightness
• timer 5,10,15 minutes for going dim or for turning off
• levels of motion sensor distance

My first impressions are these.
The good:

• decent price a little less than $50 CAD
• very very bright and very white, when on max brightness
• adjustable brightness
• when placed somewhere above, the bright light seems to bounce around because I find even lighting almost everywhere, and no strong shadows
• motion sensor: this is something I really wanted. Because I go in the shed and out to the tent a lot, when I work on something, I am so tired of turning lights on and off, so I leave them on all the time, and forget about them. The real energy consumption is not what bothers me, it's just the idea, having been raised on "never leave the lights on", it's still not out of my system completely. Now I set these lights to turn themselves off after 5 minutes, and they turn on the moment I step in. Note that I was looking for motion sensor activated light switches before I found these lights, and the cheapest of them were like $15 a piece.

The not so good:

• all settings are only accessible with the remote control. If the remote breaks, what do you do? Since I bought two, and both can be controlled with either of the remotes, at least I have a spare. Another "compromise" is that for most uses you can live with a certain configuration, and put the remote in a safe place. Set once, be happy.
• no replaceable inner elements, like "led" tubes or something. Though this may be a way of thinking in the past, as this new generation of lights claim 50000 hours of use. If this is true, maybe I'd average 3 hours per day, and that would give me something like 60 years. Crazy!

Did I say they are crazy bright?



Edit: found out they are rated at 48W. Compare this with a regular LED light bulb at around 9-12W. I find this really a non-issue. I also found the link to the company that makes them. Please don't take my ramble as an endorsement for this product. It's just a short review, maybe useful to someone.

I’m still using old fluorescent shop lights. They’re ok but they’re don’t put out the light like yours do. I usually have halogen work lights on as well. I may have to look in to some leds soon!

@Eugen Is that a K321 sitting in the 644 ? Inquiring mind want to know .

Lights so bright , going to need sunglasses and sunscreen to work .

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Nov 24, 2022 5:26 pm @Eugen Is that a K321 sitting in the 644 ? Inquiring mind want to know .

Yes, the one from that guy. Sorting out mounting and hydraulic pump now.

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Nov 24, 2022 5:29 pm Lights so bright , going to need sunglasses and sunscreen to work .

Shade 11 welding helmet!

I’m thinking. Ya I know, that if laying on floor to work on some thing under the what ever your workin on, that the bright light could bother you seeing under what your work in on, while your looking upward. Just a thought. My work bench has a window there and I have a small piece of plywood hanging in the window. So covers some of the light coming on to the top of the work piece, but allows light in at the bottom area. Is worse in winter with the snow, brighter then. Have lights at the ceiling shining down on top of the work piece. Seems to work at my standing height. So while working on an engine I don’t really have the outdoor light in my eyes and can see the work. Doesn’t mean it gets fixed any better. :giggle

There now. A light fixture ramble. Hopefully it brightens your day.

Sorry. I had to do it.

Noel.

I’m thinking. Ya I know, that if laying on floor to work on some thing under the what ever your workin on, that the bright light could bother you seeing under what your work in on, while your looking upward. Just a thought
Noel just roll the tractor over and its all good .

The only thing brighter than @Eugen is his shop lights.



Bob

You guys are funny!

Thanks for the post Eugen! I saw some black Friday sale ads and seen some LED shop lights for sale. I could use some in my shop to replace the old eight foot fluorescent ones. The lean to has no lights in there so a few shop lights would be perfect to help find things in there.
Keep the
Harry

How did that old song go???

I can see clearly now the lights are on, it's going to be a bright bright beautiful night


Gordy

Now that we have Eugen enlightened what about putting lights on the wall about 3’ up from the floor, like the body shop paint booths have. And not bright ones. That may help to see a bit. My eyes don’t like bright light I guess. I find the bright led’s hard on my eyes.
Any way. Just a thought. I know I couldn’t put lights on my side walls in my garage. Hehe. I wonder why ?

Noel.

Propane57 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 25, 2022 11:21 am Now that we have Eugen enlightened what about putting lights on the wall about 3’ up from the floor, like the body shop paint booths have. And not bright ones. That may help to see a bit. My eyes don’t like bright light I guess. I find the bright led’s hard on my eyes.
Any way. Just a thought. I know I couldn’t put lights on my side walls in my garage. Hehe. I wonder why ?

Noel.

Noel, ok, fine, I'll be serious for a moment. This is my experience with light and fixing things like cars and tractors. I've been fixing my car for many years, in an underground building garage, so very poor lighting. I used a rechargeable light bar, about 26 inch long, from Canadian Tire; not as bad as the smaller lights. I have no way to lift our Case tractors up much, so I don't do much at all underneath them. Work on our tractors is usually from above. All this ramble to say that for work on our tractors this new light I got is amazing. It's a little easier on the eyes when it's dimmed to a lower setting, yet enough light to work comfortable. No artificial light will replace natural light, we know that, but for me, this new light has made a huge difference.

Got ya Eugen. Didn’t mean to cause a ruffle. I use one of these head mounted light quite often either above or below the thing I’m working on. Just another thought.

Noel

Propane57 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 25, 2022 12:54 pm Got ya Eugen. Didn’t mean to cause a ruffle. I use one of these head mounted light quite often either above or below the thing I’m working on. Just another thought.

Noel

No ruffles here I used head mounted lights when working on the car many times, and I still do occasionally. But when I got the light bar it made a big difference, and used the head mounted light less. The light bar will cast fewer strong shadows and it's easier on the eye. It is thin enough to be able to push it between things and give you pretty good lighting in tight spots, but it has magnets and hooks to hang it behind you if needed. When I worked lying on my back under the car I would lay it flat next to me, and that gave plenty of light for the job. But you have access to your son's hoist, changes everything.

Hoists are nice. Still have to get light in some how. And in some cases with me standing bent backwards plus straining my neck back to look up at stuff is hard on my back. So hoists have there limits, for me any way.

Noel

Propane57 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 25, 2022 2:32 pm Hoists are nice. Still have to get light in some how. And in some cases with me standing bent backwards plus straining my neck back to look up at stuff is hard on my back. So hoists have there limits, for me any way.

Noel

Weld an extension on top Noel! Make it bigger!

Propane57 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 25, 2022 11:21 am Now that we have Eugen enlightened what about putting lights on the wall about 3’ up from the floor, like the body shop paint booths have. And not bright ones. That may help to see a bit. My eyes don’t like bright light I guess. I find the bright led’s hard on my eyes.
Any way. Just a thought. I know I couldn’t put lights on my side walls in my garage. Hehe. I wonder why ?

Noel.

Pore some gas on the floor and light a match . you will see underneath just fine for a second or 2 .

Propane57 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 25, 2022 2:32 pm Hoists are nice. Still have to get light in some how. And in some cases with me standing bent backwards plus straining my neck back to look up at stuff is hard on my back. So hoists have there limits, for me any way.

Noel

Now you know why I don't wrench cars anymore . Imagine 30 years of that and what it will do to you. Even with the hoist sometimes I use the crane and stand it on it end to work underneath.

Laying all jokes aside, lighting has always been a sore spot with me. Over the past 30 years, every year there has been a new flavor. Just install this one and you will save $$$$ in electricity. High Pressure sodium was the first big push. What the sales personal did not say was that in the first 2 years of operation the bulbs lost 1/2 of the lumens output. Then came T12 fluorescent push then to T8, then to T5. With each push came a calculated payback, while nothing was said about the color spectrum. Now the push is to LED. I feel that changing to LED may be worth looking at.

An old standard was the 60 and 100 watt light bulb rated at 800 and 1600 lumens, and a color spectrum of 2700K and 2870K respectively. In the 70's only grow lights and very special bulbs would deviate from off the shelf spectrums. Even the high pressure sodium lamps and mercury vapor bulbs were very consistent in staying below 3000k. Most lighting changes in late 90's to 2010 required rewiring complete areas, changing fixture placement and creating a lot of headaches for limited gain. (my rant) The energy payback often came at a cost and driven by government rebates in Ontario.
The problem now is what to chose when wattage is no longer the method for making a fixture choice. There are two factors that need to be looked at, intensity and color. The intensity is measured in Lumens and the color is rated in Kelvin. Lumens are the amount of light needed for comfortable viewing. As one ages the amount of lumen's needed increases. Kelvin is usually between 3000K to 5000K and now up to 6500K. 3000K is known as warm and has a yellowish glow where the 65000K is referred to as cool and is closer to natural sunlight.

Fast forward to 2021. Led fixtures are now available in configurations to directly replace old fixture layouts without rewiring or reconfiguring lamp layout.

My mothers home has 12 fluorescent dual 4 foot lamps hidden in a recessed celling that was installed in 1980. They all had their original ballast and were in very poor condition. In March while visiting her, all of the ballast were pulled out of the fixtures, feeds to one end of the tombstones were removed, and the other end of tombstones was supplied with 110V AC. For $14.00 per fixture and 20 minutes of time the lighting was upgraded to 4200K, 20 Watt Led lamps. This was the lamp of chose after testing 5000K LED lamps because they kept the lighting color and contrast near the level of the 1970 configuration.

The 120v T12, 8, and 5 LED conversion bulbs are not available in Canada due to shock hazards. When converting a US fixture to 120V LED lamps one end of the fixture gets 120 volt powered tombstone's. When a tombstone breaks during bulb replacement a serious hazard occurs. Canadian code require LED retrofit lamps to be driven with existing fluorescent ballast, defeating the the energy savings on retrofitting old fixtures. Often the fluorescent ballast is the energy consumer in old lighting.

Well even I can rant sometimes, Its best not to get me started.

But it's a great rant @Spike188! This is good info.

By the way, I forgot to say, these lights that I just got are 4000K. I find the colour white enough to be good for work, but not as white toward blue as to bother me. I prefer warmer colour inside the house, but when working a little bit cooler seems to help me see some things better. I'm sure it's not the best solution for everyone.

Good rant Spike

Thanks @Eugen for making me want more lighting. Was looking at a harbor freight flyer this morning and they have https://hf.tools/coupons/2022/11/180026-64410 these for $17.. 4ft led 5000 lumen. They are not motion sense but for that price I think I'll stop up there and grab a handful. I've been trying to get my pole barn built and covid messed building prices up badly here. So I've been stuck working out of my attached garage. I never updated the lighting much in my attached garage other than these 3 pod led screw in bulb socket lights that are adjustable. They work great. I also installed a 4' 4 bulb t5 light. Which is very bright. I also need alot more light in my current situation. I find led lights work great as long as you install them all over the place to eliminate shadows. We updated our lights at the dealership I work for a few years back. We went from metal halide bulbs to led and we ended up having to double the amount of lights. The leds casted so much shadows that we could no longer work under a rv without a flashlight. Corners became dark and tall rv's made the shop dark. So more led lights were installed on the ceiling and also added outdoor led flood lights about 9' up the walls in beween the bays. Those also made a difference. Once the barn is eventually built it will get leds. I wish I didn't buy 12 4' 4 bulb t8 troffers on clearance a few years ago. I got a great price on them and was initially going to use them but I don't want to deal with florescent lighting anymore than I already do. So marketplace here they come.

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I'm with Noel using a headlamp most times. The nice thing for me is the light is always where I'm looking instead of repositioning a trouble light that gets in the way. Eugen, I have almost the same work/storage situation by the looks of it. Your lights make a big difference.

Jancoe wrote: ↑Fri Nov 25, 2022 7:22 pm Thanks @Eugen for making me want more lighting. Was looking at a harbor freight flyer this morning and they have https://hf.tools/coupons/2022/11/180026-64410 these for $17.. 4ft led 5000 lumen. They are not motion sense but for that price I think I'll stop up there and grab a handful. I've been trying to get my pole barn built and covid messed building prices up badly here. So I've been stuck working out of my attached garage. I never updated the lighting much in my attached garage other than these 3 pod led screw in bulb socket lights that are adjustable. They work great. I also installed a 4' 4 bulb t5 light. Which is very bright. I also need alot more light in my current situation. I find led lights work great as long as you install them all over the place to eliminate shadows. We updated our lights at the dealership I work for a few years back. We went from metal halide bulbs to led and we ended up having to double the amount of lights. The leds casted so much shadows that we could no longer work under a rv without a flashlight. Corners became dark and tall rv's made the shop dark. So more led lights were installed on the ceiling and also added outdoor led flood lights about 9' up the walls in beween the bays. Those also made a difference. Once the barn is eventually built it will get leds. I wish I didn't buy 12 4' 4 bulb t8 troffers on clearance a few years ago. I got a great price on them and was initially going to use them but I don't want to deal with florescent lighting anymore than I already do. So marketplace here they come.

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You must be reading my mail Jancoe. I went to HF yesterday to take advantage of their Black Friday sale and purchased 15 of the 5000 lumen LED shop lights. My shop is 40' X 30'. Eight will go on the ceiling which is 12' off the floor. Four will go under an overhang which is four feet from the wall and eight feet off the floor, which is on one end of the shop. The last three will go in the lean to which is on one end of the building. It's 30' X 16', 12' high on one side and 8' high on the low side. Now to get busy and hang them up. I'll invite David over to get a suntan when it's done.

Keep the
Harry

For the headlamp, the best I found for wide area lighting, I picked up one of the COB units from the Dollar store. It has high, low and flashing modes.
The LED's in the house have been disappointing. The individual LED's may be good for 30,-50k hours, but the electronics that drive them NOT so much What should be a 20 year bulb too often turns into a 2 year bulb

I have done the 48" bulb replacement in my outbuildings and the rec room in Mom's basement (bad balists) and garage. It is simple to rewire the fixtures. And in the out building I like that they just come on full power with none of the flickering and slow warmup of the old fluorescents in the winter time


Gordy

I have replaced quite a few of the incandescent bulbs in my buildings with this style of led bulb. I have been happy with how much brighter they are and easy replacement for a standard bulb. There price has really came down over the last few years too.

My lighting project is a work in progress. It's moving along nicely and adding a few more than I realized the first time. The light is much brighter than the old fluorescent bulbs. The ones I purchased for the lean to I've already used in the shop. So, I'm thinking I should have purchased more! Today in my email I see HF has extended the Black Friday sale until Sunday. So, I'll be heading over there today to pick up five more.

Keep the
Harry

Harry wrote:My lighting project is a work in progress. It's moving along nicely and adding a few more than I realized the first time. The light is much brighter than the old fluorescent bulbs. The ones I purchased for the lean to I've already used in the shop. So, I'm thinking I should have purchased more! Today in my email I see HF has extended the Black Friday sale until Sunday. So, I'll be heading over there today to pick up five more.

Keep the
Harry

Harry, I was able to get 11 of them. My local HF did not have any in-stock. Luckily last week my sister came in for the save. She lives 50 miles away and her local HF had the 11 in-stock. Phoned her just as she was leaving to head my way and she made a pit stop. Just checked my local store again and they are still out. I would like 3 more to finish what id like to do. I've only hung 2 so far and I really like them. Why I waited so long to brighten things up????

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Jancoe wrote: ↑Sat Dec 03, 2022 8:39 pm Why I waited so long to brighten things up????

That was my exact thought after I installed mine. Now I want to get a couple more.

With all these new shop lights being installed there is going to be a run on sunglasses . Never a bad thing to have a well lit shop . My shop is the main floor of what was a 4 stall horse barn . About 22x 30' floor space with a 11' ceiling . There is 10 screw in light bulb fixtures . I first switched to compact florescent , then to compact led bulbs , then put pie plate reflectors behind each one . Each step was an improvement . In the summer I get a lot of natural light , so what I have works . But in the winter , not so much . The last thing I tried was those 3 panel screw in LED bulbs you see on TV. They a much brighter , but will not take the heat of being any where near the radiant tube heater . Definally getting some more , but for those near the heater I am going to either move the light or find something else.

Jancoe wrote: ↑Sat Dec 03, 2022 8:39 pm

Harry wrote:My lighting project is a work in progress. It's moving along nicely and adding a few more than I realized the first time. The light is much brighter than the old fluorescent bulbs. The ones I purchased for the lean to I've already used in the shop. So, I'm thinking I should have purchased more! Today in my email I see HF has extended the Black Friday sale until Sunday. So, I'll be heading over there today to pick up five more.

Keep the
Harry

Harry, I was able to get 11 of them. My local HF did not have any in-stock. Luckily last week my sister came in for the save. She lives 50 miles away and her local HF had the 11 in-stock. Phoned her just as she was leaving to head my way and she made a pit stop. Just checked my local store again and they are still out. I would like 3 more to finish what id like to do. I've only hung 2 so far and I really like them. Why I waited so long to brighten things up????

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I did get to the HF yesterday and purchased five more lights and as usual a few more items. LOL! Now crack the whip and git-er-done! I hope to get back to the shop today and hang a few more, after I repair another Christmas decoration that broke in the high wind weather we had recently.

Keep the
Harry

Ok, I"m as impressionable as the next guy.

I just ordered 2 of these:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough- ... /669375329

They have to be a big improvement over the flourescents I'm running now...

Bob

I finished the lower level lights today. I still have to complete the ones on the ceiling which will take a bit longer going up and down a ladder. After looking at the pics now I'm excited about getting the ceiling ones installed.

Keep the
Harry

@Harry Those led light sure make a difference.

So for me I build and partially assemble in my basement to make sure everything fits. I use several lamp LED shop tube fittings but have the luxury of HEAT too! Once I am satisfied I disassemble and move to a tent to sandblasting and painting before assembling in my shed/garage/ or even outside in good weather. Just getting too old for cold weather work...

I finished the led lights today. Now I can get back to other undone projects.

@Harry what is your impression about this change?

It is a lot brighter in the shop than before. I figured I would not have to buy any more fluorescent bulbs and some savings in electricity too.

Well I guess I’m on the bandwagon too now, kind of! Mrs Clause snuck a present under the tree for me. Rechargeable led lights. Not quite the shop lights you guys put up, but my goodness they’re bright! Says 3000 lumen for an hour or 1000 lumen for 3.5 hours before they need a charge. They claim it has a 5 year warranty so we’ll see how long they last. Can’t wait to try them out!

Niiice present! Welcome to the club of bright lights Jeff!

Well, I guess I have an opinion here too. I always bought 4 ft florescent dual tube lights in the past, never gave a thought to type/quality,/ etc and my only thought was "how cheap can I get them! That has changed soo much since LED lights... I Only buy dual lights LED for basement/workshop! I always buy the best! yes I know that means I only buy from places like Home depot, Lowe's or a lighting store. Why? because I am looking for longevity and light output! I know, its a hard mix but that is what I want! period. Buying cheap (I tried that) only gives me a product I will replace very quickly as it fails but also I am fed up with having to rewire in the new fitting. Following that principle has worked for me.

Yesterday I sold all of my 8’ fluorescent lights that I replaced with LED. I found these out at the curb with bulbs awhile ago. Fourteen lights most with bulbs for $80. The buyer drove for 1.5 hours to get them. Very interesting guy who restores cars. He showed me pics of some of his collection which are all Ford Model T’s. Harry

ras101 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 24, 2023 3:27 pm Well, I guess I have an opinion here too. I always bought 4 ft florescent dual tube lights in the past, never gave a thought to type/quality,/ etc and my only thought was "how cheap can I get them! That has changed soo much since LED lights... I Only buy dual lights LED for basement/workshop! I always buy the best! yes I know that means I only buy from places like Home depot, Lowe's or a lighting store. Why? because I am looking for longevity and light output! I know, its a hard mix but that is what I want! period. Buying cheap (I tried that) only gives me a product I will replace very quickly as it fails but also I am fed up with having to rewire in the new fitting. Following that principle has worked for me.

I agree. I think everyone and their brother are making LED lights and going to market with an unproven design. I will look for a good heat sink in future purchases.

I bought two tube type LED lights that failed within a year. I wonder if I could fix them. A Google search came up with repairing the standard screw-in LED's instead, but I thought I would give it a try.

A bulb failed recently so I thought I would try what I learned.
First I took off the diffuser That revealed the "Black Dot of Death" I Scraped off the silicon or whatever it is, and cleaned the metal. And then added a blob of solder to bypass defective junction That's it. I left diffuser off because it is the major cause of retaining heat. It's been working for two weeks. The control board regulates the voltage (constant current) so it works fine with the bypassed LED. And it was fun!

BTW, my LED tubes are toast!!!

@FUTZ nice to know some can be fixed. Where did you get the LED tubes so I can avoid them.

FUTZ wrote: ↑Thu Jan 26, 2023 8:02 pm

ras101 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 24, 2023 3:27 pm Well, I guess I have an opinion here too. I always bought 4 ft florescent dual tube lights in the past, never gave a thought to type/quality,/ etc and my only thought was "how cheap can I get them! That has changed soo much since LED lights... I Only buy dual lights LED for basement/workshop! I always buy the best! yes I know that means I only buy from places like Home depot, Lowe's or a lighting store. Why? because I am looking for longevity and light output! I know, its a hard mix but that is what I want! period. Buying cheap (I tried that) only gives me a product I will replace very quickly as it fails but also I am fed up with having to rewire in the new fitting. Following that principle has worked for me.

I agree. I think everyone and their brother are making LED lights and going to market with an unproven design. I will look for a good heat sink in future purchases.

I bought two tube type LED lights that failed within a year. I wonder if I could fix them. A Google search came up with repairing the standard screw-in LED's instead, but I thought I would give it a try.

A bulb failed recently so I thought I would try what I learned.
First I took off the diffuser
no diffuser.jpg

That revealed the "Black Dot of Death"
Black Dot of Death.jpg

I Scraped off the silicon or whatever it is, and cleaned the metal. And then added a blob of solder to bypass defective junction
solder blob.jpg

That's it. I left diffuser off because it is the major cause of retaining heat. It's been working for two weeks. The control board regulates the voltage (constant current) so it works fine with the bypassed LED.
led bulb working.jpg

And it was fun!

BTW, my LED tubes are toast!!!

I watched some of those videos.Thinking the "spot of death" was something even I could fix BUT the Sylvania bulbs I opened up have the older style circuits potted into the base and reeked of smoked electronics. When I lifted the LED board a bit I see the burn/charred spot on the exposed part of the potted circuit board.

Heat; I saw some where they drilled large vent holes in the white base and the base area of the diffuser.

Another guy ID'd the two resistors on top of the LED board, they are of two different values and wired in parallel. He cut out the lower valued resistor, This showed lower power consumption and only slightly lower light output, which should extend the life quit a bit as most designs push the LED chips to the limit for max light output. I believe they call it planned obsolescence as the LED bulbs never last the rated hours


Gordy

The resistors on @FUTZ LED light are 18 and 33 ohms. The PCB looks like the aluminum type, very good for sinking heat away from components.

MattA wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 7:19 pm The resistors on @FUTZ LED light are 18 and 33 ohms. The PCB looks like the aluminum type, very good for sinking heat away from components.

The heat can only move so far when the heat sink is surrounded by plastic with no vent holes.


Gordy

Gordy wrote: ↑Sat Jan 28, 2023 10:32 pm

The heat can only move so far when the heat sink is surrounded by plastic with no vent holes.


Gordy

Actually the cup that the board is sitting on is some kind of heat dissipater. I drilled through to make a vent and saw that there was an aluminum lamination.

FUTZ wrote: ↑Mon Jan 30, 2023 7:27 pm

Gordy wrote: ↑Sat Jan 28, 2023 10:32 pm

The heat can only move so far when the heat sink is surrounded by plastic with no vent holes.


Gordy

Actually the cup that the board is sitting on is some kind of heat dissipater. I drilled through to make a vent and saw that there was an aluminum lamination.

The board is likely secured to the base with a thermally conductive adhesive. The base is the heatsink. The LED bulb will cool better in an open lamp vs a closed fixture.

FUTZ wrote: ↑Mon Jan 30, 2023 7:27 pm

Gordy wrote: ↑Sat Jan 28, 2023 10:32 pm

The heat can only move so far when the heat sink is surrounded by plastic with no vent holes.


Gordy

Actually the cup that the board is sitting on is some kind of heat dissipater. I drilled through to make a vent and saw that there was an aluminum lamination.

I noticed that on mine too. And I know plastic is not a good insulator, but it is a better insulator than bare aluminum. One LED in the bathroom just started flickering as the others did, so it is not long for this world


Gordy