Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

I finally managed to get the correct piston ordered for the B43M. Measured everything to make sure it was correct. Hopefully this weekend (weather permitting) I will be able to finally get the pistons replaced with the correct ones and get everything going. The good thing it was it only took me about an hour to get everything tore down this time since I knew what I was doing this time. Once I get it fired back up my next project will be to replace the shim adjust clutch with the EZ adjust. I might get it all wrapped up before the grass starts to grow.

That's good. New rings too I hope!

Sounds good. Good luck with it. Let us know how it’s doing once working.


Noel

We're all pulling for you, we want that thing to run just as bad as you. If you were liking your tractor before, you are going to love it with that Onan running on both cylinders.

Well, I got the pistons in and it went smoother than I thought it would. But, the day I did it it was so cold and windy here (I don't have an enclosed shop) that once I had the oil pan back on I just sat the engine back on the frame and called it done. It's supposed the be warm and sunny this weekend so hopefully I will have some positive updates in the near future.

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 15, 2022 1:10 pm Well, I got the pistons in and it went smoother than I thought it would. But, the day I did it it was so cold and windy here (I don't have an enclosed shop) that once I had the oil pan back on I just sat the engine back on the frame and called it done. It's supposed the be warm and sunny this weekend so hopefully I will have some positive updates in the near future.

Hopefully Santa will bring some you guys a nice warm shop as an early Xmas gift next fall .

Dave

My dream would be to have an attached garage big enough for both cars, the mower, tools, a work bench, and some storage but we'll see...

Got everything put back together and went to see if the engine would at least turn over. When I tried to hook up the battery it sparked so bad I couldn’t even hook up the second terminal. I’ve never had that happen before. Double checked my wiring connections, everything seemed correct and tight.

The only thing is I put on a new key switch that is a 5 prong instead of a 4. Is it possible that’s the cause?

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 20, 2022 6:10 pm Got everything put back together and went to see if the engine would at least turn over. When I tried to hook up the battery it sparked so bad I couldn’t even hook up the second terminal. I’ve never had that happen before. Double checked my wiring connections, everything seemed correct and tight.

The only thing is I put on a new key switch that is a 5 prong instead of a 4. Is it possible that’s the cause?

That would be where I would start as that's what was changed, make sure everything is right there and then work out from there. Make sure nothing got crossed up during reassembly. Sure seems like something is grounding out too pull like that.

@Vivala446


https://manuals.ccigt.com/PartsManuals/ ... marked.pdf page 59 is a wiring diagram for a 4 pole switch. B=battery, S=starter, I = ignition, L=lights. A 5 pole would have terminal marked Acc=Accessory.

Sparking indicates a short to ground. It there a pinched wire somewhere? The armature wires route between the flywheel and block and probably up to the coil. That is a place where shorts occur. Light wires are another source of shorts. If the new switch is connected incorrectly then a system wiring short would show up when connecting the battery cables. Also check that battery connections are correct polarity.

Spike

Thanks guys! I’ll look into it as time permits

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 20, 2022 6:10 pm Got everything put back together and went to see if the engine would at least turn over. When I tried to hook up the battery it sparked so bad I couldn’t even hook up the second terminal. I’ve never had that happen before. Double checked my wiring connections, everything seemed correct and tight.

The only thing is I put on a new key switch that is a 5 prong instead of a 4. Is it possible that’s the cause?

The switch you have is for a magneto coil ignition and with key off goes to ground to kill the ignition .
There are as many different configurations in 4/5/7 blade as there is makes and models of tractors out there , but they all look the same on the outside. One of the dealers I am sure can help you out getting the right one for your tractor .

Dave

What Dave said

If you have notfound the list of trusted dealers here it is.

https://manuals.ccigt.com/FAQ/Microsoft ... 0.docx.pdf

Barneveld Implement, Inc has changed their email to barneveldimp@gmail.com


Gordy

Alright… put the old key switch back in and it works. Now we’re back to engine turning like a cyclone but it won’t fire, even with starting fluid. Has spark. Correct pistons this time…

One of the most problematic parts is the condenser. I've seen them work then out of the blue they don't. I've even put in an old one and they fire right up. That's why it's always easier to have it mounted on the coil. The last few I've replaced I put on a transdenser from Dave Kirk http://kirkengines.com and have no problem at all. Just my observation Vivala.

Keep the Peace
Harry

Would it be possible that it was damaged when the engine was Eli g moved around during the rebuild? I was as gentle as I could be but without a proper work bench it could have still gotten k Ickes around a good bit

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 21, 2022 6:16 pm Alright… put the old key switch back in and it works. Now we’re back to engine turning like a cyclone but it won’t fire, even with starting fluid. Has spark. Correct pistons this time…

When you put it back together, were you careful about the timing? To start, the engine needs:
1. Compression
2. Air/gas vapour mix
3. Spark at the right time

No 2 can be ruled out because of the starting fluid.

You can easily check for spark by pulling the spark plug out and touch it's sleeve to a metal part of the engine so it gets good ground, then crank the engine. You should see a healthy spark on both plugs.

So that leaves two things out: compression and timing. If the spark plug doesn't spark at the right time you get no detonation. Same if you don't have compression. If you don't have a compression gauge, you can do the "thumb compression test." Pull the spark plug out and press your thumb hard on the spark plug hole; open throttle to max and crank engine. It should easily push your thumb away. If not, or if it feels weak, your got no compression on that cylinder.

As for timing, hopefully you used the service manual for your engine to make sure timing is correct, when you assembled engine again.

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 21, 2022 6:16 pm Alright… put the old key switch back in and it works. Now we’re back to engine turning like a cyclone but it won’t fire, even with starting fluid. Has spark. Correct pistons this time…

When you say "turning like a cyclone " I assume you mean fast and free.
I assume that you did not remove the cam shaft, crank or points . If so, timing should not be an issue .
Did you use some oil in the cylinder and on rings during assembly ?
Did you make sure ring grooves were clean and ring don't stick in the grooves when when squeezed in with ring compressor ?
Did you check heads for flat? repeated on and off of heads can warp them if not done properly .
Did you check for compression , or leak down test after reassembling and before tins went back on ?

Sorry about all the questions , but not watching you put it together just trying to get a clearer picture .

Dave

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 21, 2022 6:49 pm Would it be possible that it was damaged when the engine was Eli g moved around during the rebuild? I was as gentle as I could be but without a proper work bench it could have still gotten k Ickes around a good bit

Anything is possible but I feel you missed a step in assembly . Answer the question I left you and that will give us a clear picture .

Dave

The only thing I haven’t done is check for compression

Just my 2 cents worth here. 2 cents not worth much nowadays. Hehe
Any way, I would change the plugs. Then I would put gas in the fuel tank. Could be out of gas, most of us have done that before. Just sayin. I would also take the air cleaner off and prime with gas down the carb. Then try it. Must be something simple.

There now, a good ramble to start the week off.

Noel

LOl. I know it has a full tank of gas. The plugs might need to be changed. I'll double check the spark before I do that and I can do a compression test at the same time.

Ok… late night update… first, it occurred to me I might have come off as disrespectful in my last post with the “lol” about no fuel. Thing is I work in road maintenance at a local trucking company and saying something has no gas in it—regardless of the breakdown— is a running joke with us. Comes from the movie Slingblade.

That all being said, i checked compression and it’s good. The spark on the plugs is just a small blue blip though.

Change the spark plugs and try it. And I think some of us, I know I have, trying to start some thing and can’t figure it out why it won’t start. Then it dawns on you to see if there any gas in the tank. And sure enough no gas. Hehe.
Hope you get it going.

Noel

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 22, 2022 10:40 pm Ok… late night update… first, it occurred to me I might have come off as disrespectful in my last post with the “lol” about no fuel. Thing is I work in road maintenance at a local trucking company and saying something has no gas in it—regardless of the breakdown— is a running joke with us. Comes from the movie Slingblade.

That all being said, i checked compression and it’s good. The spark on the plugs is just a small blue blip though.

What reading did you get both sides ?
Check you have 12.5 volts at coil .
Check no oil on points from turning engine upside down .

Dave

I'll get some new plugs and check the points for oil. I never would have thought of that

My head is spinning a little

It has been a long and winding road on this one, hasn't it?

I like a good puzzle! I'm sure you'll find out what's wrong

I'm hoping so. I figure I have about a month or so before the grass here really starts growing. Depending on the weather

A long and winding road,,,,, hehe. I started humming a Beatles song. Can’t remember the name of the song. Abby Road album I think ?


Ya, I know, ramblin again.


Noel

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Feb 23, 2022 4:37 pm I like a good puzzle! I'm sure you'll find out what's wrong

Look between my ears . My says I puzzle her all the time .

Dave

I haven't checked the points yet, but from I have seen so far it looks like the cover doesn't come off as I've seen it in videos. It appears that just the back side or panel comes off. Seems like that wouldn't give you much room to work between the engine and the firewall in front of the battery and tank.

https://manuals.ccigt.com/ServiceManual ... marked.pdf
Vivala, check page 18 in the above manual. Some Onan's have a cover in the rear between the battery and the engine. Some have a cover on the top. The rear facing cover comes off with two bolts and the top comes off with a bolt on the top. The top cover type is easier to adjust the points. The rear cover type is a bit harder because of space limitations. It would probably be easier to remove the battery to get the rear cover off.

Keep the Peace
Harry

Not much room there for sure. But I did it on mine. Not so bad once you get the cover off and get a look at it. My cover has a screw in it. Make sure the wire inside is not touching the cover. Won’t start if it is. I had that trouble. Took me a while to find that. I put a piece of thin card board, like a business card, inside the top of the cover to stop that.

Noel

I could swear it looks like mine opens differently but I'll have to double check. It's always looked like mine that same cover on it but only the back side came off

This is the point box on 646-75 CCKA engine

Spike

Well there ya go. I learned some thing today about the points cover. Never knew that they came off the back too.

Noel

@Vivala446 I would recommend that if yours has the back cover you change the condenser while in there . You did have an issue with the ignition switch . If you have really fine sand paper polish the points , I like 400- 600 grit . If there is oil in the point box, clean with brake/parts cleaner and blow dry .

Dave

I'm afraid the only way to get good access will be to remove the battery, battery tray, hydraulic tank (again) and the plate that the tank sits on

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 24, 2022 3:04 pm I'm afraid the only way to get good access will be to remove the battery, battery tray, hydraulic tank (again) and the plate that the tank sits on

The other option is to undue the engine and the hydra pump bracket. Unbolting the cooler bracket and slide them off to the side and sliding the engine forward a little . Both can be a pain . Unless you are able to pull the engine and bench test before reassemble these are your options . These tractor were built to work , not to be worked on . Hope a condenser and clean of the points gets you going soon .


Dave

As everyone can see from the pics, some Onans have top adjusting points and some have the back cover adjusting points. The top cover is the easier to adjust for sure. I would suggest to mount the condenser on the coil, so it's easier to change.

Myself I've converted my Onans to the Kirk Engine transdenser. I've installed new points and installed the transdenser near the coil. With micro volts across the points with the transdenser and installing new points at the time. I will never have to change them again. I also have installed electric fuel pumps on my Onans. It is so nice to turn on the ignition switch, wait a few seconds hearing the fuel pump click, then hear the engine start immediately. Even in cold weather, it's a blessing to hear it fire up.

After rebuilding the CCKA in the 646 last year and started it up. I was so excited to hear it purr. I think I wet my pants in the excitement. LOL.

Keep the Peace
Harry

I think the transdenser is a good idea, a condenser is cheaper BUT if you go with a new condenser make sure to get a OEM one from an Onan dealer. Many on the other site got them from eBay, but they were not OEM and either did not work or failed quickly. Try contacting Boomer http://boomersonanparts.com/ Or one of our dealers.


Gordy

I'll probably go with the condenser first just to get it running. I may try and see if tractor supply has one for cheap that'll work just to see if I can get it to fire and then I can get OEM parts after if needed.

Adjust the points and mount the condenser outside the points box would be the best IMO!

Keep the Peace
Harry

That was kind of my plan.

I was going to clean the points and plugs to see if i got any action that way. If it fires then I'll buy new plugs. If not I'll get a cheap condenser somewhere just to get it to fire. If that works, I'll go with OEM

One further question on this... in the interest of financial economy, would any old condenser work to use for testing or will only a small engine one do the job? As in, could I snag a $4 one meant for a car just to see if that is the issue at all.

I don't really see why its wouldn't work. It's a capacitor after all, no?

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 25, 2022 4:29 pm One further question on this... in the interest of financial economy, would any old condenser work to use for testing or will only a small engine one do the job? As in, could I snag a $4 one meant for a car just to see if that is the issue at all.

Any automotive grade condenser will work as long as it has a workable lead configuration .

Dave

Did ya get plugs yet ? Don’t have to be new. Used ones that you know work and of similar style.

Noel

Not yet. Im hoping I can clean the ones I have up enough to get it to fire.

Yes. But they could be no good. That’s why I’m saying to try different plugs. Has happened to me a few times that the plug just stopped working. Just like a light bulb going out. But, most of my engines are single cylinder. Which is a little easier to figure out. Not likely that both plugs could be bad. But you never know until you switch them with other ones and try it. That will eliminate that question. Just giving ideas, not trying to be nasty.

Noel

Vivala, here is a link to a you tube video on checking spark plugs with a multi meter. Hope this helps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6Ng-yhCeNs

Keep the Peace
Harry

I cleaned the plugs. They spark well enough to fire I’d think from a visual test. Sprayed the points off as best I could with brake cleaner— very hard to access. Shot starter fluid right into the cylinders. Still no fire. To change points or condenser I’ll have to pull the hydraulic again— which would be the third time I’ve done it. I have compression and I have spark but no fire. I can’t figure it. If the points and condenser was bad it wouldn’t fire at all

Jumpins, that’s a puzzler. If you have spark at the plugs, points should be working. May need adjustment, but there working.

What is the gap setting on the plugs. ?


Noel

I don’t have a gap measuring tool but it looks awful right. I may widen it and see what that gets me

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 26, 2022 1:51 pm I don’t have a gap measuring tool but it looks awful right. I may widen it and see what that gets me

I would narrow it. Easier for spark to jump.


Noel

Tried narrowing the gap. Just a tiny blue spark.

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 26, 2022 2:27 pm Tried narrowing the gap. Just a tiny blue spark.

Did you put the plugs back in and try it. ?


Noel

Yep. Same result. I’ll just buy new plugs and try it.

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 26, 2022 1:09 pm I cleaned the plugs. They spark well enough to fire I’d think from a visual test. Sprayed the points off as best I could with brake cleaner— very hard to access. Shot starter fluid right into the cylinders. Still no fire. To change points or condenser I’ll have to pull the hydraulic again— which would be the third time I’ve done it. I have compression and I have spark but no fire. I can’t figure it. If the points and condenser was bad it wouldn’t fire at all

How much compression ?
What is the voltage at the coil ?
A "leaky" condenser can cause a weak spark .
Oil on the points contacts can also cause the coil to not fully charge and collapse (fire) same as a leaky condenser.
Did you use something to clean between points contacts ?

Dave

I plan to do all that tomorrow. The points are very hard to get to will require some dissembley. From what I could see there was a lot of oily crud in the points box though

Well, I got the points out, cleaned and filed them (only very minor putting). Cleaned the box. Hooked up a new test condenser. And then…. When I was going to reattach the points I dropped the nut. I don’t know if it went on the ground or down into the frame of the tractor but it’s gone and didn’t have another one. With everything we have going on today it’ll be another week before I can continue this journey

We will be here and waiting for your update. Jumpins I hate that when I drop something like that. Light and a magnet might help you find it.


Noel

really curious of voltage at coil and if lead wire is on proper hook up to coil, i think it should be on neg. side guess i could be mistaken though,can anyone verify? Kyle

Managed to get a nut and put it all back together. No spark at all now. Maybe the plunger isn’t working right after I removed the points case. Is there a right or wrong way to reinstall it?

Any way to get a light and mirror in there to see if any thing is moving while cranking. ? Points maybe not set ? Make sure your condenser is grounded well.


Noel

Condenser was grounded. Not much way to see if things are working correctly. Tried turning it by hand to see if I could but not much luck

Would not be the first time someone reinstalling the points cover pinched the points wire enough to break through the insulation and ground it out, or even got the wire end twisted a bit and grounded to the side of the box. Or found a pre existing rub through on the wire insulation.


Gordy

I’m going to check everything again. Is it possible the test condenser I got (it’s for a car) is so wrong it just plain won’t work?

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 27, 2022 8:24 pm I’m going to check everything again. Is it possible the test condenser I got (it’s for a car) is so wrong it just plain won’t work?

No idea but one way to find out would be to reconnect the old one and see if you get spark back.


Gordy

It’s getting to be enough that I’m about ready to quit

I think you're setting yourself up for grief. What test condenser did you use? From what's you described so far my impression is that you have a lot of unknowns. When you have a lot of things to doubt, if it works you got lucky. If it doesn't, you have many things that might cause the problem and no idea which is the actual culprit.

In my humble opinion you already tried your luck with haphazard solutions. It didn't work. Why not do it right? Sounds to me like you will have tractors for the rest of your life. In the US you have pretty much the cheapest consumer products in the world, and probably the best delivery system that exists. Feeler gauges will cost you less than $10. Don't buy coffee for a week and you got feeler gauges. You can get a compression gauge set for less than $50. Even less second hand.

I totally get you want to see it running asap but I think it's going too much all over the place. All this work and still we have no idea what could be wrong. Sorry, but that's how it seems to me.

Hang in there @Vivala446. Most of us have faced what seem to be unsolvable obstacles like yours.

52 years ago there was a 1955 2nd series Chevy pickup sitting in the pasture bone pile. The motor had a hole in the block, the transmission was missing 3rd gear, the brakes were gone, and the back corners of the cab had holes rusted through. Dad said I could have it if I could make it run. An Uncle taught me the basic principals of ring slap, cylinder bore wear, and backlash. He would talk me through each step but never laid a hand on a wrench. This was in an unheated 40 X 40 round-top barn with a dirt floor and a small concrete slab 10' wide down one side.

After doing rings, bearings, freeze plugs, new water and oil pump the engine was ready to drop into place. The front end of the pickup was all that would fit onto the slab. Motor mounts, transmission stabbing, clutch and shifting linkage all were completed without putting it on stands. Most of the crawling around under the Chevy was done on the dirt floor. Because there was limited shop space the final assembly and brake work was finished outdoors.

Engine oil had been added and start up was almost ready. That is when the workbench was cleaned up. At the bottom of the pile of tools and old parts was an L shaped tube. I recognized it as the oil line that connected the oil pump to the block. The oil had to be drained and pan dropped to install the oil line. The 55 had a straight front axle which interfered with taking the pan off. Once again this was done while laying in the dirt with engine oil dripping.

It took me most of a year to get the truck running and every step was dirty, nasty, cold, cold and damp, and more nasty. I was convinced that mechanic work was not in my future. I can still smell the oil and shop floor dirt embedded in clothes. Nope, turning a wrench was not going to be part of my future.

Somehow, that 14 year old got past the memories of that winter and made equipment repair a full time vocation at 40.

Hang in there @Vivala446

Spike

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 27, 2022 9:46 pm It’s getting to be enough that I’m about ready to quit

Hang in there, don’t give up. Maybe just leave it alone for a few days. Take a break from it. It sure helps when I do that.

Noel

Propane57 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 28, 2022 3:48 am

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 27, 2022 9:46 pm It’s getting to be enough that I’m about ready to quit

Hang in there, don’t give up. Maybe just leave it alone for a few days. Take a break from it. It sure helps when I do that.

Noel

I believe Noel has some words of WISDOM for you Vivala. I find this happens to me all the time, you hit the wall! It's time to walk away! I just work on something else to take my mind off the problem. I've even found sometimes in the middle of the night I wake up and there in my head is the solution. Strange as that sounds, it's true. The brain keeps processing it while you're doing other things. Don't give up, keep going and in the end the reward will be GREAT.

Keep the Peace
Harry

I really appreciate everyone's support. I know I have compression. I know had spark. If I put everything back together and it's just that new plugs were needed I'm going to feel pretty dumb.

Harry wrote: ↑Mon Feb 28, 2022 7:46 am

Propane57 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 28, 2022 3:48 am

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 27, 2022 9:46 pm It’s getting to be enough that I’m about ready to quit

Hang in there, don’t give up. Maybe just leave it alone for a few days. Take a break from it. It sure helps when I do that.

Noel

I believe Noel has some words of WISDOM for you Vivala. I find this happens to me all the time, you hit the wall! It's time to walk away! I just work on something else to take my mind off the problem. I've even found sometimes in the middle of the night I wake up and there in my head is the solution. Strange as that sounds, it's true. The brain keeps processing it while you're doing other things. Don't give up, keep going and in the end the reward will be GREAT.

Keep the Peace
Harry

Yes Harry, that’s very true waking up in the night and you have a good thought or the answer. I have even got up in the middle of the night and wrote down what I was thinking, so’s I would not forget it in the morning.

Noel

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 28, 2022 8:10 am I really appreciate everyone's support. I know I have compression. I know had spark. If I put everything back together and it's just that new plugs were needed I'm going to feel pretty dumb.

Vivala, on my 644 with a Kohler 321 I was not getting the engine to fire. Upon very close inspection I found a small break in the condenser wire where it goes through the cover. I put a little shrink tubing over the break and Ureka! The engine started up and I was back in business. Sometimes it's the small things that make a difference.

Keep the Peace
Harry

That's very true.

This on amazon:



I wanted to add that to measure a capacitor/condenser you need a pretty special measuring device. If I were you I'd just order the right condenser and be good for another 20 years.

The genuine condenser is $20 at onanparts.com

https://onanparts.com/index.php?main_pa ... cts_id=432


On amazon you can get both new points and condenser for $22, but obviously they're aftermarket.

I think what I'm going to do for the time being is double check the compression with a gauge and then reinstall the original condenser. I did notice when I removed it that its connection to the point was a little loose. If that gets my spark back then I'll replace the plugs and see what that gets. Beyond that I'm afraid I'll be at a loss. I'm going to call a local small engine shop today and look into their rates.

I do love to work on equipment, but I also learned long ago that a smart man admits when he doesn't have the answers.

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 28, 2022 10:32 am I think what I'm going to do for the time being is double check the compression with a gauge and then reinstall the original condenser. I did notice when I removed it that its connection to the point was a little loose. If that gets my spark back then I'll replace the plugs and see what that gets. Beyond that I'm afraid I'll be at a loss. I'm going to call a local small engine shop today and look into their rates.

I do love to work on equipment, but I also learned long ago that a smart man admits when he doesn't have the answers.

The condenser body needs to be well grounded to the engine, so make sure that's so by filing some of the paint if there's any, where you attach the condenser.

You'll get this figured out, I'm sure, but I think you need to eliminate possible problems using some new parts and doing a proper compression test. Otherwise we'll be running in circles doubting everything all the time.

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 28, 2022 10:32 am I think what I'm going to do for the time being is double check the compression with a gauge and then reinstall the original condenser. I did notice when I removed it that its connection to the point was a little loose. If that gets my spark back then I'll replace the plugs and see what that gets. Beyond that I'm afraid I'll be at a loss. I'm going to call a local small engine shop today and look into their rates.

I do love to work on equipment, but I also learned long ago that a smart man admits when he doesn't have the answers.

I think it is time start with the basics . If you can answer these questions it will be easier for us to steer you in the right direction . Other wise we are just guessing at what is going on .

How did you set the points and what values did you use ?
What is battery voltage and what is it at the B+ on the coil with and without the points side ( - ) hooked up ?
What is the B + coil voltage when flywheel is about 10 degrees before TDC . The flywheel and timing cover are marked and you can see through the large hole in the front tin cover .
If you can do this before doing anything else it would help .

Dave

Vivala446 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 28, 2022 10:32 am I think what I'm going to do for the time being is double check the compression with a gauge and then reinstall the original condenser. I did notice when I removed it that its connection to the point was a little loose. If that gets my spark back then I'll replace the plugs and see what that gets. Beyond that I'm afraid I'll be at a loss. I'm going to call a local small engine shop today and look into their rates.

I do love to work on equipment, but I also learned long ago that a smart man admits when he doesn't have the answers.

It's a learning process Vivala. The more you work on these GT's the more you'll learn, and the next troubleshooting ordeal will be easier. Before you know it you'll be answering other members posts about their problems. I can guarantee it Vivala!

Keep the Peace
Harry

Eugen wrote: ↑Mon Feb 28, 2022 9:55 am This on amazon:


Screen Shot 2022-02-28 at 09.50.57.png


Screen Shot 2022-02-28 at 09.51.11.png


Screen Shot 2022-02-28 at 10.34.45.png



I wanted to add that to measure a capacitor/condenser you need a pretty special measuring device. If I were you I'd just order the right condenser and be good for another 20 years.

The genuine condenser is $20 at onanparts.com

https://onanparts.com/index.php?main_pa ... cts_id=432


On amazon you can get both new points and condenser for $22, but obviously they're aftermarket.

Assuming that the 312-0246 at onanparts.com is Canadian dollars?

https://www.casegardentractorparts.com/31caon.html

Bob

Bob I didn't know you carry Onan parts too. That's a great price too!