3018/3118 power steering

[ssmewing]

I have rebuilt quite a few of the power steering models. I have a guy that keeps buying them and then he has me fix them. When I get done they have to work perfectly and most importantly, no oil leaks. Try that for a challenge on these tractors.

I have now proven that all the 4 digit tractors have leaky low-pressure hoses. They leak through the inner rubber. But, unlike the high-pressure hoses, the low-pressure hoses just seep oil. It is easy to tell if it is leaking. If the hose is oily on the outside, it is a bad hose. That oil came from that hose and not from somewhere else.

It is a very challenging job to replace all the hoses on the PS tractors. Obviously, the engine, the pump removed from the engine and never the pump shaft, and the oil tank and all the return hoses. If it is a rubber hose it has to be replaced. Along the way, you have so many ways and places to screw it up and make it very expensive. So, you must be precise and live by the rule of if it is not exactly right it is 100% wrong.

By the time I am done parts and labor are usually about $2,000.

Welcome to the world of owning 30-year-old tractors that run on hydraulics.

[TLD89]

Great quote I will have to use it. Thanks for the info. Still thinking about what to do with the 3018/3118's. The 3118 has less hrs. on it and I do have log splitter (don't really use it), 4' tiller using the 4020 for them. Really like to somehow install an electric clutch on the 3118?

Terry

I have rebuilt quite a few of the power steering models. I have a guy that keeps buying them and then he has me fix them. When I get done they have to work perfectly and most importantly, no oil leaks. Try that for a challenge on these tractors.

I have now proven that all the 4 digit tractors have leaky low-pressure hoses. They leak through the inner rubber. But, unlike the high-pressure hoses, the low-pressure hoses just seep oil. It is easy to tell if it is leaking. If the hose is oily on the outside, it is a bad hose. That oil came from that hose and not from somewhere else.

It is a very challenging job to replace all the hoses on the PS tractors. Obviously, the engine, the pump removed from the engine and never the pump shaft, and the oil tank and all the return hoses. If it is a rubber hose it has to be replaced. Along the way, you have so many ways and places to screw it up and make it very expensive. So, you must be precise and live by the rule of if it is not exactly right it is 100% wrong.

By the time I am done parts and labor are usually about $2,000.

Welcome to the world of owning 30-year-old tractors that run on hydraulics.

[Timj]

The 3118 would cycle your splitter a little faster, but if you don't use it much, it's kind of no advantage.
How many hours are on the 3118, did it come with an AHRM deck?

[TLD89]

No deck not sure on hrs (missing hr. meter) but looking at the steering, frontend is tight, paint and the rest of tractor looks good.

TLD89

The 3118 would cycle your splitter a little faster, but if you don't use it much, it's kind of no advantage.
How many hours are on the 3118, did it come with an AHRM deck?

[thebuildist]

I have rebuilt quite a few of the power steering models. I have a guy that keeps buying them and then he has me fix them. When I get done they have to work perfectly and most importantly, no oil leaks. Try that for a challenge on these tractors.

I have now proven that all the 4 digit tractors have leaky low-pressure hoses. They leak through the inner rubber. But, unlike the high-pressure hoses, the low-pressure hoses just seep oil. It is easy to tell if it is leaking. If the hose is oily on the outside, it is a bad hose. That oil came from that hose and not from somewhere else.

It is a very challenging job to replace all the hoses on the PS tractors. Obviously, the engine, the pump removed from the engine and never the pump shaft, and the oil tank and all the return hoses. If it is a rubber hose it has to be replaced. Along the way, you have so many ways and places to screw it up and make it very expensive. So, you must be precise and live by the rule of if it is not exactly right it is 100% wrong.

By the time I am done parts and labor are usually about $2,000.

Welcome to the world of owning 30-year-old tractors that run on hydraulics.

I did all four PS hoses on my 4020PS through the front and rear tower access panels. TOTAL pain in the butt. Took about 3.5 hours, cost me... $125 or 150 for the hoses? My low pressure hoses are holding ok for now.

Bob

[ssmewing]

I have rebuilt quite a few of the power steering models. I have a guy that keeps buying them and then he has me fix them. When I get done they have to work perfectly and most importantly, no oil leaks. Try that for a challenge on these tractors.

I have now proven that all the 4 digit tractors have leaky low-pressure hoses. They leak through the inner rubber. But, unlike the high-pressure hoses, the low-pressure hoses just seep oil. It is easy to tell if it is leaking. If the hose is oily on the outside, it is a bad hose. That oil came from that hose and not from somewhere else.

It is a very challenging job to replace all the hoses on the PS tractors. Obviously, the engine, the pump removed from the engine and never the pump shaft, and the oil tank and all the return hoses. If it is a rubber hose it has to be replaced. Along the way, you have so many ways and places to screw it up and make it very expensive. So, you must be precise and live by the rule of if it is not exactly right it is 100% wrong.

By the time I am done parts and labor are usually about $2,000.

Welcome to the world of owning 30-year-old tractors that run on hydraulics.

I did all four PS hoses on my 4020PS through the front and rear tower access panels. TOTAL pain in the butt. Took about 3.5 hours, cost me... $125 or 150 for the hoses? My low pressure hoses are holding ok for now.

Bob

Yes, if that is all you do the cost is not that bad. Your hoses were a pretty good deal. I replace everything rubber and change the linkage and fuel lines and many other things while I am in there. Actually, my hoses were about that, I just cannot remember if that included shipping. But, I did do both mid-lift hoses.

Of course, I add my custom linkage.

After that, I have to do the 500 hours that were skipped, 1000 hours that were skipped maintenance to the Onan engine. Most intake manifolds do not pass my leak test, especially the newer ones with an oil filter. Leaving that rubber seal off the filter can even cause the valve seat to come out. I check for that.

[ssmewing]

Great quote I will have to use it. Thanks for the info. Still thinking about what to do with the 3018/3118's. The 3118 has less hrs. on it and I do have log splitter (don't really use it), 4' tiller using the 4020 for them. Really like to somehow install an electric clutch on the 3118?

Terry

I have rebuilt quite a few of the power steering models. I have a guy that keeps buying them and then he has me fix them. When I get done they have to work perfectly and most importantly, no oil leaks. Try that for a challenge on these tractors.

I have now proven that all the 4 digit tractors have leaky low-pressure hoses. They leak through the inner rubber. But, unlike the high-pressure hoses, the low-pressure hoses just seep oil. It is easy to tell if it is leaking. If the hose is oily on the outside, it is a bad hose. That oil came from that hose and not from somewhere else.

It is a very challenging job to replace all the hoses on the PS tractors. Obviously, the engine, the pump removed from the engine and never the pump shaft, and the oil tank and all the return hoses. If it is a rubber hose it has to be replaced. Along the way, you have so many ways and places to screw it up and make it very expensive. So, you must be precise and live by the rule of if it is not exactly right it is 100% wrong.

By the time I am done parts and labor are usually about $2,000.

Welcome to the world of owning 30-year-old tractors that run on hydraulics.

Brain at Salem Power Equipment is the expert on the AH models. Standard or non-AH attachments do not work with an AH tractor if I remember correctly. But, he would know for sure.

[Timj]

Because of the higher hydraulic gpms of the All Hydraulic tractors, 31xx and 41xx, it is not recommended to run attachments that use high speed hydraulic motors designed for the standard tractors on the AH tractors. Over speeding the attachment could be dangerous.

Attachments for the All Hydraulic tractors all start with AH in the model number like AHSB48, AHRM60.

The tiller and splitter are exceptions, the tiller uses a low speed hydraulic motor and the splitter doesn't have a hydraulic motor.

The three pt. finish mower, Hydra cutter, Hydra vac/bagger, and the chipper/shredder are the attachments to be concerned about.
Tim

[thebuildist]

The hydraulic attachments are what aren't compatible between 3018's and 3118's, as the previous poster said.

But for belt-driven attachments, It seems to me that, so long as it has the same engine as a 3018, and it faces the same direction, and you have the physical space in front of the engine, that there's no reason you couldn't mount the standard electric PTO clutch that came with the 3018.

And if you wished, you could then run whatever belt-driven RH discharge deck or whatever 3018-compatible snowcaster on it.

I don't see an huge benefit to doing it, but I don't see why you couldn't.

Bob

[Timj]

The hydraulic attachments are what aren't compatible between 3018's and 3118's, as the previous poster said.

But for belt-driven attachments, It seems to me that, so long as it has the same engine as a 3018, and it faces the same direction, and you have the physical space in front of the engine, that there's no reason you couldn't mount the standard electric PTO clutch that came with the 3018.

And if you wished, you could then run whatever belt-driven RH discharge deck or whatever 3018-compatible snowcaster on it.

I don't see an huge benefit to doing it, but I don't see why you couldn't.

Bob

I think space is the the biggest hurdle.
Same engine and orientation.

He does have the best scenario I think you could ask for in deciding if this is doable and how much of a project it will be. Just park the two tractors side by side and start measuring.

I can see the advantages of being able to run a belt driven mower.

In my countless hours of research into the All Hydraulic tractors I've not ran into a thread on adding a clutch on one. The question has been asked, but space is always brought up. There have been claims that it has been done, but I truly believe if it has been done there would be threads about it.

If it could be "easily" accomplished it would make the All Hydraulic tractors more popular. ( So would reasonably priced hydraulic deck motors)
Tim