Onan 16HP engine

[RoamingGnome]

@RoamingGnome I've often wondered if I should get a valve like that.

@Eugen - With skid plates and other stuff under the Tacoma it made oil changes a breeze
Bigger versions of drain valves are really common on heavy equipment - It makes PM services go a lot quicker

FWIW - just wanted to add that there are a couple of different formulations of "Thread Sealant" some with a very effective locking formulation - handy if someone previously over torqued a NPT fitting and you want to be able to set an elbow pointing in the right direction

[ras101]

Thank you #RoamingGnome - I have just ordered a tube from Amazon.

[RoamingGnome]

@ras101 - I hope it does the trick for you... I think I used something similar at work - Industrial suppliers package things a little differently. Just make sure you use lots of brake clean, the threads are bone dry and that you give it enough time to set up before using it...

[Eugen]

@RoamingGnome thank you for this tip, I will add it to my "must get" list.
Relu

[ras101]

So my thread locker/seal arrived today. Everything I have read says go-for-it and I really intend to try that. I have though decided to change the Hydraulic oil too so will be stripping the oil tube that is causing interference problems too. So my next post will include hydraulic oil draining, changing to a holding valve (1979 GT I bought from a neighbor) as well as engine oil change, etc. In some ways that makes the change easier as I will remove the hard line from the pump to oil cooler so no cutting of the drain. M fix will include brass fittings for the drain. I am really impressed with the brass parts - the 90 degree angle is square and the whole deal looks so much better when installed. I will be sealing the joints with thread sealer and thread locker too. Only talking here do I get the full story on my needs.. Thanks guiys.

[Timj]

Sounds like the right plan, get everything hydraulic done in one drain down of the system.
Tim

[ras101]

So that decided, I will drain the hydraulic system too, what else should i do at this time? New oil will be (for ONAN b43M engine) and then 5/50 (probably mobile one) synthetic for the deck/blower. I only want to change my oil a couple of times every 5years or so..

[Eugen]

Ray, show us some pictures of what you're doing please. Helps everyone when time comes to do it.

I don't quite understand the idea of changing the engine oil so rarely

[ras101]

Eugen, changing engine oil is one thing. Based on that oil is subjected to contaminates from engine use that finds its way into the oil stream over time. The fact that most people tend to the lower quality conventional oils too does not help and a change to synthetics would help here too. Not so with hydraulic oils, there are no contaminates! the ONLY reason to change is by season. If you really examine the Case/Ingersoll doctrine on this the only reason to change out oil is due to season, i.e. temperature. Case recommends 20/40 for summer and 5/20 for winter for a reason... They want to make sure that during winter temperatures that the GT starts easily, hence the 5 rating during the winter, and provides enough power during what they deem the summer season when most power is needed. All these assumptions are false! Case/Ingersoll tractors are used all over the US and some even in Europe. Temperatures very through all seasons too. Conventional oils at a reason price and availability were the norm and synthetics even though available were expensive and not universally available. Rather than stake the companies reputation on the new thing on the block they went with the current norm (how could blame them!). Unlike conventional oils that need additives to move to multi grade synthetics are actually designed to be multi grade...big difference. All this info is available online for anyone that wants to know.. So now to answer you question: Knowing that the reason to change oil is based on oil becoming contaminated due to engine by products, and the need to change oil between summer and winter usage due to viscosity we are left with only one thing - an oil that has a viscosity that could/can span the range for summer/winter use. As Case/Ingersoll recommends 5/20 for winter use and 20/40 for summer use in our Hydraulic systems using an oil that spans that - lets say 5/50 meets all our needs. Next lets look at contaminants and there are NONE - hence my oil change period which might be too short...

[Eugen]

The 5w20 recommendation for winter use is a mystery to me.