Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

Any recommendations? Links

FUTZ wrote: ↑Mon Jul 11, 2022 9:59 pm Any recommendations? Links

Depends on what you want to put it on and why . Anything stock under 1000 cc or 60 cid all you need is a pulse pump if the fuel system doesn't have restrictions and you don't have to lift a higher distant .

I went with Facet cube pumps. The lowest pressure available (believe it was 1-2 psi).
All 3 of my machines now have them, and they've been dependable for quite a few years now.

I'm done with the electric fuel pumps. I've had two facet pumps quit on me. I have one currently on my 446 snow machine which I will change to a pulse pump. Just my experience that I've had with them.

Keep the Peace
Harry

Thankyou for the replies.

It's for my boat actually. It's a three litre Mercruiser (Chev), from somewhere in the 90's. Years ago, I started converting all my tractors to electric fuel pumps and loved them, but then then the new gas caused the seals to fail in all of them. I've used pulse pumps in my tractors since, but I don't think it would suit the Merc.

Hopefully, new pumps can handle the new gas. I was buying ethanol free premium, until these last huge price increases, but I think all gas is tainted, as I have had water in gas at the beginning of every season for the last ten years. This is one of the reasons for the electric pump; I can pump out the sludge from bottom of gas tank at the start of the season, without cranking engine.

@FUTZ Ian can you put a pump in the tank ? or does it need to be external ?

@FUTZ my previous boat came with a fuel filter (10 micron) with water separator, which I thought it was a grand idea. It has a clear bottom that you can see the water separating from fuel.

Our current boat has the merc engine that's probably like yours, 3L 140HP. BTW I have a spare such engine, don't ask how

My experience with these boat engines is that gas tanks have a tonne of crud in them, no matter if they're aluminum or steel. If steel, you must check the outside and inside for rust, because at some point it'll leak; ask me how I know

So, fuel filter is a must! I've been quite happy with the mechanical fuel pump on this engine, easy to rebuild.

If I were you, I'd rather empty the fuel tank with a portable electrical fuel pump. If you opt for an in-tank fuel pump, you'll end up finding that you cannot pump all the fuel from the tank, so you're left with an inch-inch and a half on the bottom.

Depending on where your tank is, you may want to consider taking it out and address the inside (clean, coat) so you no longer have problems for years.

My boat has been winterized 3 years ago and not touched since. It'll be interesting to see what I find inside the carb, tank, etc.

Eugen wrote: ↑Tue Jul 12, 2022 10:14 am @FUTZ my previous boat came with a fuel filter (10 micron) with water separator, which I thought it was a grand idea. It has a clear bottom that you can see the water separating from fuel. Yeah, I've looked at water separating filters too, but I just undo line, pump into a pickle jar and when its run clean, reconnect. I guess I'm just cheap!

Our current boat has the merc engine that's probably like yours, 3L 140HP. BTW I have a spare such engine, don't ask how

I have a spare too, LOL.


So, fuel filter is a must! I've been quite happy with the mechanical fuel pump on this engine, easy to rebuild. It has a little built in filter, that usually has a bit of powdery stuff on when I wash it; idk what that is.

If I were you, I'd rather empty the fuel tank with a portable electrical fuel pump. If you opt for an in-tank fuel pump, you'll end up finding that you cannot pump all the fuel from the tank, so you're left with an inch-inch and a half on the bottom. One of the problems, or maybe a good thing is that the suction and angle of boat means it sucks off bottom of tank immediately.

Depending on where your tank is, you may want to consider taking it out and address the inside (clean, coat) so you no longer have problems for years. Actually, tank is clean, it's plastic. I added new fuel level sender and looked in tank; no problem.

My boat has been winterized 3 years ago and not touched since. It'll be interesting to see what I find inside the carb, tank, etc.

Are mechanical pumps serviceable?

FUTZ wrote: ↑Tue Jul 12, 2022 1:16 pm
Are mechanical pumps serviceable?

I would be surprised if yours wasn't, they are very simple devices. A plunger gets pushed by the engine and actuates a diaphragm; there are most likely a couple of smaller diaphragms that are the valves. If you find a kit for it, it's very easy to replace the valves or springs or diaphragms. One pump that I opened had so much crud inside it was unbelievable. Clean it up well and it was fine. Didn't even had to replace the diaphragm.

The other solution is to buy the pump, it's almost impossible not to find one. Doesn't have to be OEM. I'd be surprised if it cost more than about $100. If you have a filter before it it'll last the life of the boat.

I know what you're saying about being cheap, I am by default, about a lot of things; but when it comes to go out on the water I'd rather spend $200 and have peace of mind for the next 10 years at the very least. Happened to me twice, boat gave up out on the water. It's not pleasant. I always have a minimal set of tools in the car and boat as well.

Never had a boat that was too big to row... Good thing, because the outboard would run flawlessly in a 55 gallon drum full of water, but the second I put it on the boat it wouldn't run. Ever... Time after time... It became a running joke. Now the boat's been hanging from the barn beams for 20 years, and the motor is siting on a stand in the barn basement. Both are likely going at the auction in the fall...

I'm not for or against electric pumps. Working with RV's the rv gensets out on the market are run by faucet style and similar style pumps. Having the pump mounted at the genset meant these pumps were pullers with the output side only 1' to 2' long. The inlet side spanning up to 30ft of 1/4" line to reach the tank. They dont seem to be a common failure in rv gensets so idk. Seen many high hour gensets. I like my pulse pumps just fine too. They get the job done. Use whatever works for you. 3 psi for tractors. Stay under 14 psi and you will be just fine on most 3.0 mercruiser.

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Jancoe wrote: ↑Tue Jul 12, 2022 7:49 pm I'm not for or against electric pumps. Working with RV's the rv gensets out on the market are run by faucet style and similar style pumps. Having the pump mounted at the genset meant these pumps were pullers with the output side only 1' to 2' long. The inlet side spanning up to 30ft of 1/4" line to reach the tank. They dont seem to be a common failure in rv gensets so idk. Seen many high hour gensets. I like my pulse pumps just fine too. They get the job done. Use whatever works for you. 3 psi for tractors. Stay under 14 psi and you will be just fine on most 3.0 mercruiser.

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Thanks for the information on pressure for tractors. I was thinking in the 2 to 5 lb range.


Noel