The Fluids Debate
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The Fluids Debate
This seemed like a shop-talk type post, as I'm guessing there's some arguments that could be had over a beer or 3.
I'm curious what brand and fluids you guys are using in your Case 220's. As I just picked it up I want to do a fluid flush and fill, and thought I would see what you Canadian Weather-ers are using for oil and hydraulic fluid.
Cheers!
I'm curious what brand and fluids you guys are using in your Case 220's. As I just picked it up I want to do a fluid flush and fill, and thought I would see what you Canadian Weather-ers are using for oil and hydraulic fluid.
Cheers!
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Re: The Fluids Debate
yeah, awesome entrance Noel, let the haha
No, just kidding, we're not that kind of bunch, but some of us have some strong opinions about the oils to be used in anything.
I'll go first. I use diesel oil 5w40 or 15w40 depending on the season, both engine and hydraulic and transmission. approved
No, just kidding, we're not that kind of bunch, but some of us have some strong opinions about the oils to be used in anything.
I'll go first. I use diesel oil 5w40 or 15w40 depending on the season, both engine and hydraulic and transmission. approved
- DavidBarkey
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Re: The Fluids Debate
I have tried different combination . What I am running now in the 446 is Rotela diesel 5w40 Syntetic in the hydro and the engine . It is more money but if you don't have to every spring and fall unless it really needs it not just for temps. Rear gear still use 80w90 , but next change I am going to switch to UTF . I use universal blinker fluid in my beacon light and dot 3 halogen fluid in the head lights .
My 2 cents , you may keep the change .
My 2 cents , you may keep the change .
Dave
Mad Tractor Builder
Mad Tractor Builder
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Re: The Fluids Debate
thanks for cleaning the shelves at the Canadian Tire of dot 3 halogen fluid buddy! I could find none when I went there, they told me this hoarder named Dave got it all he's building an underground bunker.DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Jan 18, 2024 4:24 pm I have tried different combination . What I am running now in the 446 is Rotela diesel 5w40 Syntetic in the hydro and the engine . It is more money but if you don't have to every spring and fall unless it really needs it not just for temps. Rear gear still use 80w90 , but next change I am going to switch to UTF . I use universal blinker fluid in my beacon light and dot 3 halogen fluid in the head lights .
My 2 cents , you may keep the change .
- DavidBarkey
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Re: The Fluids Debate
Eugen wrote: ↑Thu Jan 18, 2024 5:32 pmthanks for cleaning the shelves at the Canadian Tire of dot 3 halogen fluid buddy! I could find none when I went there, they told me this hoarder named Dave got it all he's building an underground bunker.DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Jan 18, 2024 4:24 pm I have tried different combination . What I am running now in the 446 is Rotela diesel 5w40 Syntetic in the hydro and the engine . It is more money but if you don't have to every spring and fall unless it really needs it not just for temps. Rear gear still use 80w90 , but next change I am going to switch to UTF . I use universal blinker fluid in my beacon light and dot 3 halogen fluid in the head lights .
My 2 cents , you may keep the change .
Dave
Mad Tractor Builder
Mad Tractor Builder
- Toolslinger
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Re: The Fluids Debate
I had never thought about UTF in the Case fleet. That's interesting for sure. It works just fine and dandy in my bigger machines all year here in PA. The 90 weight in the 8n absolutely sucks in the winter since it's a common sump for the hydraulics, and the rear. Waiting on the 3 point to lift the blade plowing snow is awful. Can't convince my uncle to go to UTF. Honestly I should just do it, and swap back to 90 before he gets back in the spring... I'd be curious how it would play for the drive in the summer. I imagine the cylinders wouldn't care either way.
Currently I run 15-40 in the Case fleet. It isn't ideal in the real cold days, but I don't see temps like you folks in the great white north. (you can keep them, and I wish you'd take this arctic air back that came down this week) It comes up to a reasonable working temp pretty quickly, so no big deal, it just is kinda a drag starting out, meaning one must start the machine and let it warm up while cycling the oil in neutral.
Currently I run 15-40 in the Case fleet. It isn't ideal in the real cold days, but I don't see temps like you folks in the great white north. (you can keep them, and I wish you'd take this arctic air back that came down this week) It comes up to a reasonable working temp pretty quickly, so no big deal, it just is kinda a drag starting out, meaning one must start the machine and let it warm up while cycling the oil in neutral.
- Spike188
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Re: The Fluids Debate
I run Rotella 15-40 in hydrualic and engine year around.
For radiators, I prefer water in 16 oz cans.
For radiators, I prefer water in 16 oz cans.
Spike Colt - 9 & 10, Case - 108, 118, 444, 446, 448, 646, 646bh, Ingersoll 4016, 4118AH
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Re: The Fluids Debate
Good one Eugene!
@NGraham hope you don't mind us, we like having some fun in this hobby too. But the information outside the jokes is real, I can tell you that some of these guys have been doing Case garden tractors for many many years. Actually, now I'm really curious, maybe I'll open a thread about it.
@NGraham hope you don't mind us, we like having some fun in this hobby too. But the information outside the jokes is real, I can tell you that some of these guys have been doing Case garden tractors for many many years. Actually, now I'm really curious, maybe I'll open a thread about it.
- MattA
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Re: The Fluids Debate
I got tired of the spring/fall oil changes. I now run Mobil 1 5W-40 full synthetic in the hydraulic system. Topped it off with a quart of Mobil 1 20W-50 full synthetic a year or so ago. Might have added some Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic in small quantities. My tractor sleeps in an attached garage and it's probably 20F - 30F when I start it up in the winter.
Last edited by MattA on Thu Jan 18, 2024 9:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Ingersoll 4016
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Re: The Fluids Debate
I know that by jumping into this I am on dangerous ground, so please don't consider this a recommendation, it's just what I do and I am not one to argue. If it works for you just do it.
Summer use for Kohler, Onan and Briggs Vanguards I use a straight weight SAE 30 Diesel oil, 15w40 Shell Rotella in the hydraulics and transaxle. I like the zinc content in both of them.
Winter (under 32 degrees F.) 5w20 for engines and I stay with 15w40 in the hydraulics (with a proper warm up before putting the tractor to work) to avoid seasonal oil changes unless the tractors are stored in a temperature where they won't crank. Then I got to 5w20 in the hydraulics as well.
Some may question 5w20 in the engines, with the Kohler K series they are a dip and splash lubrication system and I feel the light viscosity gets distributed quicker on cold startup. Onans have a weak link in the oil pump (tiny woodruff key in the drive gear) so I also like a light viscosity for them to lessen the load on that pump.
Just never been a synthetic guy, old school I guess. Used to use the excuse of being too expensive for engines without oil filters as they still needed 25 hour changes to remove impurities and it was too expensive, but now we're in an era where it's nearly the same price as dino, lol.
This is just what I do. "You do you" as they say.
Bob
Summer use for Kohler, Onan and Briggs Vanguards I use a straight weight SAE 30 Diesel oil, 15w40 Shell Rotella in the hydraulics and transaxle. I like the zinc content in both of them.
Winter (under 32 degrees F.) 5w20 for engines and I stay with 15w40 in the hydraulics (with a proper warm up before putting the tractor to work) to avoid seasonal oil changes unless the tractors are stored in a temperature where they won't crank. Then I got to 5w20 in the hydraulics as well.
Some may question 5w20 in the engines, with the Kohler K series they are a dip and splash lubrication system and I feel the light viscosity gets distributed quicker on cold startup. Onans have a weak link in the oil pump (tiny woodruff key in the drive gear) so I also like a light viscosity for them to lessen the load on that pump.
Just never been a synthetic guy, old school I guess. Used to use the excuse of being too expensive for engines without oil filters as they still needed 25 hour changes to remove impurities and it was too expensive, but now we're in an era where it's nearly the same price as dino, lol.
This is just what I do. "You do you" as they say.
Bob